Eleaf Istick

[Katya]

I knew I was going to get a dna 40 device, just not which one until a couple of weeks ago. By then, I thought it was too late to pre-order so I have one reserved at a local VS shop for the rDNA 40. I'm first on the list . I ordered the Ni200 wire after I called the shop and reserved one. They started shipping this week but it looks like the shop won't get any until next week. I did play with the idea of getting a Protovapor and Hana but I really liked the size of the rDNA.

I do this a lot. I also order parts for motorcycles and cars I don't have yet but know I'm buying.

Yeah. I want an rDNA device too. I don't know what the MVP3 will look like and if it will have replaceable battery. I don't use huge tanks, but 22 mm is a must--the MVP2 is just too narrow. We'll see.

 

[Ryan Lee]

I have the V2 for my minis and they are a pain to adjust--I had to use pliers... But both V2 and V3 work.

For my regular Aerotanks, I use both V1 and V2--they are fine. I almost prefer the V1 because it's smaller and doesn't add too much height to the tank. But it's not as accurate as the V2.

Kanger should slow down a bit, IMO. They are making so many different clearos and coils and bases that nobody can keep track anymore.

Those look nice, however I have a couple of questions.

Being that, and correct me if I am wrong, the protanks get all of their airflow from the bottom of the 510 connection, or the head itself. So that makes me wonder, even if you have the adjustable airflow all the way opened up, isn't the air still being restricted by the one hole that allows airflow in the head design?

Let me know if it really opens up the draw significantly, as this may give me reason to bust out my old mini protank and put a fresh build in it as I used to. Take me back to the good old days hehe!

 

[Katya]

Those look nice, however I have a couple of questions.

Being that, and correct me if I am wrong, the protanks get all of their airflow from the bottom of the 510 connection, or the head itself. So that makes me wonder, even if you have the adjustable airflow all the way opened up, isn't the air still being restricted by the one hole that allows airflow in the head design?

All early Kanger clearos come with a base with pre-drilled holes on the side of the base--just like the airflow control bases. The only difference is that they are not adjustable. I used to stick toothpicks into one of the holes on my ProTank 1 because the draw was too airy. Look at the mini tank base V1 in the picture above--no airflow control, just a hole.

Let me know if it really opens up the draw significantly, as this may give me reason to bust out my old mini protank and put a fresh build in it as I used to. Take me back to the good old days hehe!

Hehehe... It might. I put my mini Aerotank base (V2) on my old mini ProTank and I liked it better with air control, but it didn't turn the mini into a Kayfun.

 

[Katdarling]

And I believe they're only 3ml

s-stew, it's 2ml actually. Here take a looksie/listen-sie.

 

[Ryan Lee]

All early Kanger clearos come with a base with pre-drilled holes on the side of the base--just like the airflow control bases. The only difference is that they are not adjustable. I used to stick toothpicks into one of the holes on my ProTank 1 because the draw was too airy. Look at the mini tank base V1 in the picture above--no airflow control, just a hole.



Hehehe... It might. I put my mini Aerotank base (V2) on my old mini ProTank and I liked it better with air control, but it didn't turn the mini into a Kayfun.

Kat, I think you missed my point! Haha

I know the airflow comes from the holes in the base, but once it gets passed that, it all has to fit into the hole from the bottom of the head, which is pretty tiny. So what I am saying is, even when you open up the airflow on this newer adjustable base, all that air still has to fit into that tiny little hole in the head! See what I mean, kinda defeats the purpose!

That leads me to mo my next point, I no longer use this design of head because if not wicked properly, it is a recipe for a leaky disaster straight on to your precious iStick battery post! Nope, I won't be taking that chance. That is the main reason I so happen to love my Nautlius', completely sealed 510, makes me a happy man!

And yes, I too used to break a toothpick off in one of my mini's base holes to tighten the draw! Back when I used to be into the mouth to lung hit, just felt like more of a cigarette like draw to me.

 

[Katya]

Oh, yes, I misunderstood your question! Yes, you are right! And I actually know of a guy who enlarged that inner hole in his Aspire ET-S (in addition to drilling the side holes bigger) to get a bigger airflow--but that's not for the faint of heart...

That's why I like larger tanks--like my Aerotank--the draw is big and flavorful. I don't use minis so much anymore--anything with 14-15 mm (eGo) diameter will have the same problem, methinks.

 

[Ryan Lee]

Also to add something very important here for people that are pushing their center pin in and are wanting to change the o ring. Don't get them from lowes or home depot, the number 60 is the smallest they have, but are far to "fat" and will not allow your atty's to seat flush.

My suggestion is, either buy some smaller ones online. Or do as I did, and visit your nearest hobby parts dealer. Ya know, the place where they sell rc cars and choppers, and all that fun stuff. HobbyTown USA is the one near me, and they carry every size of o ring under the sun. And they are quality silicon o rings. Hell they have sizes that make the original white o ring these devices come with look huge! So you will be able to find the perfect size for a great seal, and also allow your atty to screw in all the way and sit flush, and it will alleviate pushing your center pin in to far.

Also, if you are having trouble getting said new o ring around your center pin, heat the o ring up a bit, gives it a ton of flexibility!

Cheers friends!

 

[Fattlestar]

Quick question. I have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to the "eLeaf" volts. From what I've gathered, it outputs at about a volt higher than the display shows. So, with a 1.6ohm (reads 1.7) BVC @ 3.9volts / 9watts, am I really at 4.9v? Should I adjust to a lower setting at that resistance?

 

[scaredmice]

I know the airflow comes from the holes in the base, but once it gets passed that, it all has to fit into the hole from the bottom of the head, which is pretty tiny. So what I am saying is, even when you open up the airflow on this newer adjustable base, all that air still has to fit into that tiny little hole in the head! See what I mean, kinda defeats the purpose!

The newer heads for Aerotanks V2, MOW and all them have a bigger hole through the closing pin, near 1,5 mm instead of the 0,8 - 1 mm of the V1 heads. They also have a metal sleeve to cover wicks, they look a bit like Aspire BDC because of that.

That leads me to mo my next point, I no longer use this design of head because if not wicked properly, it is a recipe for a leaky disaster straight on to your precious iStick battery post! Nope, I won't be taking that chance. That is the main reason I so happen to love my Nautlius', completely sealed 510, makes me a happy man!

And yes, I too used to break a toothpick off in one of my mini's base holes to tighten the draw! Back when I used to be into the mouth to lung hit, just felt like more of a cigarette like draw to me.

Well, on my miniProtanks I opened bigger one of the three holes, and I discovered doing that that their base are made of nickel plated brass. The three stock holes are pretty tiny...

But if you are afraid of leaking, which should happen if the wicks are mounted not tight enough (and if it is beyond some point, you'll get nasty dry hits), consider to fit them back together in a BVC fashion style. It's possible! I learned to do that in some threads here and now I use in all my Kanger heads for the iStick high resistance (2,0 to 2,6 ohm) rebuilt ones with just one coil, but in vertical, hence my 'Kanger BVC's...

The version with sleeve is worked in the same manner, you just put the sleeve after mounting the cotton wrapped coil on the base and before closing it with its flagpole-chimney. The results are unbelievable, no dry hits, excellent tolerance to high power, and very good flavour, they just lack of the same vapour production compared to the stock heads, unless you put them 3-5 watts above their normal setting.

And if you ask me, this method is easier than building two coils and trying to put them in place, which sometimes gets into my nerves...

 

[pokemom]

Willow eyes made some great suggestions for the Aspire's. There are also the Aspire Vivi Nova and Mini Vivi Nova tanks which are not glass and will take the BVCs. I have them both and like them very much!

Aspire Nova & Davide - Aspire - Clearomizers Tanks

They don't have air flow, but I have been REALLY liking the Air Flow Controllers for the 'Stick. They also add the benefit of dread thread protection, with far less gawky height than the Eleaf adapter or normal 510 adapters.

(pic shows a Naughty Mini, but it looks great with any tank)





The new Atlantis..... an Aspire tank for the low ohmers. From the little I've seen, they are weighing in at $40ish and the pack of replacement coils is $20. Also, they do NOT use the Aspire BVCs, so then there's that.

Kat,

I use the Davides, and like them because they can take either the BVCs or kanger coils. I put aerotank afc on the bottom and they work like champs. I use the aero base, the "extra" ring, and the bvc coils. One of my favorite devices.

 

[scaredmice]

Quick question. I have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to the "eLeaf" volts. From what I've gathered, it outputs at about a volt higher than the display shows. So, with a 1.6ohm (reads 1.7) BVC @ 3.9volts / 9watts, am I really at 4.9v? Should I adjust to a lower setting at that resistance?

Hope you do not get dizzy or abducted by those maths....

 

[pokemom]

I'd thought about getting a third iStick, but I think I'll be waiting for V2.

That was going to be me too, until the $17/free shipping sale last weekend. #3, this time in black, is on its way.[emoji14]

 

[pokemom]

Those look nice, however I have a couple of questions.

Being that, and correct me if I am wrong, the protanks get all of their airflow from the bottom of the 510 connection, or the head itself. So that makes me wonder, even if you have the adjustable airflow all the way opened up, isn't the air still being restricted by the one hole that allows airflow in the head design?

Let me know if it really opens up the draw significantly, as this may give me reason to bust out my old mini protank and put a fresh build in it as I used to. Take me back to the good old days hehe!

It really opens up the draw significantly!!! I didn't really think that the difference would be stark when I ordered the aerotank base, but when I put it on my PT2 it was like having a different tank. I now have these on my PT2s and my mini PT2s. I also have them on my PT3, which for all intents and purposes, turned it into a genitank (aerotanks are ss, genis are chrome like the PTs).

 

[Fattlestar]

scaredmice, thanks for the charts. If I'm reading them right, which I might not be, I think I'm getting closer to 14 watts when I'm at 9ish with 1.6 resistance. Which seems high to me. I'll adjust down a little before running too much juice through this coil.

 

[scaredmice]

scaredmice, thanks for the charts. If I'm reading them right, which I might not be, I think I'm getting closer to 14 watts when I'm at 9ish with 1.6 resistance. Which seems high to me. I'll adjust down a little before running too much juice through this coil.

You've read them well. But as taste matters, someone coined the very useful tool, the 'dark ribbon power corrector' or something like that, which is just to cover the display meanwhile you're adjusting it in searching for the sweet spot......

Also you can just ignore it....

I advise against the use of those charts before getting into trouble adjusting power. Try first without them, and only if you do not get good results, then maybe the explanation would be on the charts, if your atomizer is too much sensitive to the excess of power.

 

[Fattlestar]

Thanks again. Yeah, I wasn't getting good results, but I've not used a 1.6 head before, only 1.8's with the BVC's. Vape was way more "hot" than I expected at my normal setting, so I'm trying to fiddle with it and find the right spot. I think the lower resistance coils have a tighter range so finding the right spot is taking a little effort.

 

[Ryan Lee]

The newer heads for Aerotanks V2, MOW and all them have a bigger hole through the closing pin, near 1,5 mm instead of the 0,8 - 1 mm of the V1 heads. They also have a metal sleeve to cover wicks, they look a bit like Aspire BDC because of that.

Very interesting. It has been some time since I have busted out the ol' mini protank 2. I used to rebuild them with a single coil and wick with cotton, and was very satisfied.....up until I got my first mech and my first dripper months ago. Then I kicked myself in the ... for rebuilding tanks because rebuilding on a dripper deck was much easier and produced better flavor. Tis much easier working with say 24 gauge than the 28 gauge I was using for my protank. I did have it down though lol, it was worth it at the time as compared to a stock coil build with silica, my own micro with cotton was 10 fold. Also, the little white gasket that seated inside the bottom of the head would always end up cracking after so many recoils, causing a short and not allowing the damn thing to fire.

I may have to look in to these newer style heads, may give me reason to build on the mini again. And could defo either drill out the 3 holes a bit bigger, or just bite the bullet and get the adjustable airflow base for the mini.

Anyway, thanks for the response, I took notes!

 

[leekeylee]

The newer heads for Aerotanks V2, MOW and all them have a bigger hole through the closing pin, near 1,5 mm instead of the 0,8 - 1 mm of the V1 heads. They also have a metal sleeve to cover wicks, they look a bit like Aspire BDC because of that.



Well, on my miniProtanks I opened bigger one of the three holes, and I discovered doing that that their base are made of nickel plated brass. The three stock holes are pretty tiny...

But if you are afraid of leaking, which should happen if the wicks are mounted not tight enough (and if it is beyond some point, you'll get nasty dry hits), consider to fit them back together in a BVC fashion style. It's possible! I learned to do that in some threads here and now I use in all my Kanger heads for the iStick high resistance (2,0 to 2,6 ohm) rebuilt ones with just one coil, but in vertical, hence my 'Kanger BVC's...

The version with sleeve is worked in the same manner, you just put the sleeve after mounting the cotton wrapped coil on the base and before closing it with its flagpole-chimney. The results are unbelievable, no dry hits, excellent tolerance to high power, and very good flavour, they just lack of the same vapour production compared to the stock heads, unless you put them 3-5 watts above their normal setting.

And if you ask me, this method is easier than building two coils and trying to put them in place, which sometimes gets into my nerves...

This is exactly what I do with the new enclosed kagner coils is re-build them vertical for my Emow Mega and in my opinion they rock. Here is a thread I did on it

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ed-kanger-dual-coil-single-vertical-coil.html

 

[aznnp77]

Also to add something very important here for people that are pushing their center pin in and are wanting to change the o ring. Don't get them from lowes or home depot, the number 60 is the smallest they have, but are far to "fat" and will not allow your atty's to seat flush.

My suggestion is, either buy some smaller ones online. Or do as I did, and visit your nearest hobby parts dealer. Ya know, the place where they sell rc cars and choppers, and all that fun stuff. HobbyTown USA is the one near me, and they carry every size of o ring under the sun. And they are quality silicon o rings. Hell they have sizes that make the original white o ring these devices come with look huge! So you will be able to find the perfect size for a great seal, and also allow your atty to screw in all the way and sit flush, and it will alleviate pushing your center pin in to far.

Also, if you are having trouble getting said new o ring around your center pin, heat the o ring up a bit, gives it a ton of flexibility!

Cheers friends!

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, the closest hobbytown USA from me is like an hour drive away. They do have flat rate $4.99 shipping, but I still would have no idea what size to get. I only got the Danco #60 because the person who made the video said so. I've been satisfied with the fix on the iStick more than the MVP.

The MVP didn't sit exactly flush. The iStick is close enough, and I didn't take out the old o-ring either. I'm just happy at this point that I can grab any tank from my drawer, put it on the iStick, and it will always fire.

This is for my own records. It looks like the Danco ring is 6.35mm wide (outer) x 1.58mm thick. So you would have to get something thinner than 1.58mm to help make it flush. The hobbyworks web site doesn't have a lot of details on the dimensions of a lot of the o-rings. I'll just keep this in mind in the future. Like I said, my iStick works fine right now, and this should take care of me at least until the iStick 2 comes out sometime.

While I was looking, I found something that may work. It was on the hobbyworks web site, and they sell the same one on amazon for $4.48 as an add-on item, or $4.48 on ebay. It's 5mm (inner) x 1mm (thick). The outer diameter is 6.5mm.

The model is Axial AXA1162. Still might not be thin enough, but it's another option I guess. I'm not sure if I would waste my time redoing it with this one. I wouldn't want to end up breaking my iStick trying to take that other one off. Not sure how much 0.6mm in thickness would matter.

http://www.amazon.com/Axial-AXA1162-O-Ring-10-Piece-5x1mm/dp/B00GNKQVHM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Axial-O-Ring-5x1mm-10-AXA1162-NIB-/331209495864?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1d9fd538

 

[Iowa Gal]

I have quite a few Evod toppers. They work great on my iSticks. One iStick came with the adapter, on the other I just use a regular 510 to Ego adapter. Hope to be able to buy one like the eleaf one some day because I like that adapter for looks (with the knurled lip) and it is easy to remove the topper without removing the adapter too.

What OHM coil are you using the with Evods? I tried a 1.8 that works great with my Aerotank but didn't work out so well with the Evod....wondering if I should try 2.2?? It's funny how much difference there was with the same coils but different attys.