I have it a few weeks and have done that twice
Maybe I'm just vaping more
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Maybe I'm just vaping more
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Eleaf Istick
- Thread starter AnsonJames
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I have 3 now, and so love them. I do plug them in because I have a cord sitting on my desk so I top up their charge whenever- but like you if I had to- they'll go for a long, long time. I took one to the City on Monday and was gone 14 hours and the little thing hardly budged from full charge. All my Egos and Spinner and Twists, of which I have many, many- and my MVP, are sadly gathering dust now. I've always had to wear one on a lanyard and was worried about the istick being too heavy, but with a rubber lanyard ring on an Aerotank- works beautifully. I even presented at our House of Legislature this Monday and used them as a demo on how they are NOT cigarettes, or tobacco. (I"m in NS Canada and they are trying to crack down hard on ecigarettes) We won a small victory so far.
I think we're still going to see major evolution over the next couple of years. Kanger's new Subtank will apparently use both pre-built Kanger heads (new Bottom Plane Dual Coil - BPDC) OR an RBA head. The one-sheet states the new BPDC heads will fit all Kanger BDC clearos except the minis. Does this mean the new RBA head will fit in an Aerotank? New options... Maybe I will hold off on new topper purchases for a few weeks. Never a dull moment in the vaping world!
Looks like replacing battery is a possibility, it's appears to be held in place by adhesives .
For those that don't know, Emmsma's Istick broke when she tried to install an o-ring on the 510 connector. She asked if someone could help so I offered to try to fix it as it didn't look too hard to do. I got Emmsma's Istick this afternoon and got started.
The problem. 8-o
I was able to disassemble it fairly easily thanks to others before me that took pics of their work.
Wait a minute. What was that?
As I was sliding out the internals, a few very small pieces dropped out and had me crawling around for about 30 mins looking for I don't know what. (was still missing a piece that makes the button go clicky that eventually found later)
So I thread the wire in the 510 connector. I saw pics of the gunk (silicone glue?) below the connector but was surprised to see that the silicone is actually the gasket isolating the 510 center pin from the sides!. Now I know why these are so inexpensive. You can also see that the wire wasn't even soldered on the circuit board as there's no solder on the board where it should be.
My new soldering iron worked great. I tested it before putting back together with a Kanger Aerotank with a 2.0 ohm coil. It reads 2.1 ohms on my other devices too.
I don't have a pic of the button because the parts I had to install were so small and I was concentrating on getting it on and put together that I forgot to take a pic.
I got everything back together and tested with my KFL+ with a 1.7 ohm coil. Works great. I'm charging it to test it before shipping it back but it's looking good
The problem. 8-o
I was able to disassemble it fairly easily thanks to others before me that took pics of their work.
Wait a minute. What was that?
As I was sliding out the internals, a few very small pieces dropped out and had me crawling around for about 30 mins looking for I don't know what. (was still missing a piece that makes the button go clicky that eventually found later)
So I thread the wire in the 510 connector. I saw pics of the gunk (silicone glue?) below the connector but was surprised to see that the silicone is actually the gasket isolating the 510 center pin from the sides!. Now I know why these are so inexpensive. You can also see that the wire wasn't even soldered on the circuit board as there's no solder on the board where it should be.
My new soldering iron worked great. I tested it before putting back together with a Kanger Aerotank with a 2.0 ohm coil. It reads 2.1 ohms on my other devices too.
I don't have a pic of the button because the parts I had to install were so small and I was concentrating on getting it on and put together that I forgot to take a pic.
I got everything back together and tested with my KFL+ with a 1.7 ohm coil. Works great. I'm charging it to test it before shipping it back but it's looking good
For those that don't know, Emmsma's Istick broke when she tried to install an o-ring on the 510 connector. She asked if someone could help so I offered to try to fix it as it didn't look too hard to do. I got Emmsma's Istick this afternoon and got started.
The problem. 8-o
I was able to disassemble it fairly easily thanks to others before me that took pics of their work.
Wait a minute. What was that?
As I was sliding out the internals, a few very small pieces dropped out and had me crawling around for about 30 mins looking for I don't know what. (was still missing a piece that makes the button go clicky that eventually found later)
So I thread the wire in the 510 connector. I saw pics of the gunk (silicone glue?) below the connector but was surprised to see that the silicone is actually the gasket isolating the 510 center pin from the sides!. Now I know why these are so inexpensive. You can also see that the wire wasn't even soldered on the circuit board as there's no solder on the board where it should be.
My new soldering iron worked great. I tested it before putting back together with a Kanger Aerotank with a 2.0 ohm coil. It reads 2.1 ohms on my other devices too.
I don't have a pic of the button because the parts I had to install were so small and I was concentrating on getting it on and put together that I forgot to take a pic.
I got everything back together and tested with my KFL+ with a 1.7 ohm coil. Works great. I'm charging it to test it before shipping it back but it's looking good :thumb
This is one thing I love about the forum... KTMRider volunteered to fix another member's mod. emmsma was willing to risk her iStick for the cause. And WE ALL learned a lot from their experience... Thanks guys! And good work, KTMRider!
Thanks for the kind words. I'm just trying to give back to the community after getting so much knowledge (oh, and thanks for helping me spend money!!! )
I forgot to mention that I looked at putting a VariTube 510 connector on it. There just isn't any space. The positive wire going into the connector will block the fire button and there's no way to get around that unless you lift the connector about 1/4" at least.
Oh... and the Blue is a great color!
)I forgot to mention that I looked at putting a VariTube 510 connector on it. There just isn't any space. The positive wire going into the connector will block the fire button and there's no way to get around that unless you lift the connector about 1/4" at least.
Oh... and the Blue is a great color!
Well, vapnw didn't have any listed on ebay when I ordered mine, but here's the interesting part: Mine came today from "uvape", and guess what the return address said? VAPENW!! I think vapenw has a few ebay seller id's. I got the blue, and yowza - it is stunning!!! When the frenzy dies down and online vendors have the pink in stock, I will be ordering a pink as well. LOVE THIS THING!!!
Thanks for the coffee juice link and recommendation. I have not found a decent coffee vape yet, so will definitely check them out!
For those that don't know, Emmsma's Istick broke when she tried to install an o-ring on the 510 connector. She asked if someone could help so I offered to try to fix it as it didn't look too hard to do. I got Emmsma's Istick this afternoon and got started.
The problem. 8-o
I was able to disassemble it fairly easily thanks to others before me that took pics of their work.
Wait a minute. What was that?
As I was sliding out the internals, a few very small pieces dropped out and had me crawling around for about 30 mins looking for I don't know what. (was still missing a piece that makes the button go clicky that eventually found later)
So I thread the wire in the 510 connector. I saw pics of the gunk (silicone glue?) below the connector but was surprised to see that the silicone is actually the gasket isolating the 510 center pin from the sides!. Now I know why these are so inexpensive. You can also see that the wire wasn't even soldered on the circuit board as there's no solder on the board where it should be.
My new soldering iron worked great. I tested it before putting back together with a Kanger Aerotank with a 2.0 ohm coil. It reads 2.1 ohms on my other devices too.
I don't have a pic of the button because the parts I had to install were so small and I was concentrating on getting it on and put together that I forgot to take a pic.
I got everything back together and tested with my KFL+ with a 1.7 ohm coil. Works great. I'm charging it to test it before shipping it back but it's looking good
Wow! Thanks for sharing the pictures! I've learned more about this device from this post.
And that's great you are willing to help others out!
Oh, and for the record, now that I have something else to compare it to. This little stick does kick ###! I got a Sigelei Vmax 3 and I've been cranking it up to 17watts and it still doesn't hit as well as my little stick at 10.
For those of you who have to disassemble your Istick careful with those tiny plastic switches, they are very fragile, and the little tabs that hold them together break very easy.
While the Istick is a great little device, and works pretty well, this thing is as cheap as it is for a reason, MANY cost cutting corners in the manufacturing of it at the expense of durability.
While the Istick is a great little device, and works pretty well, this thing is as cheap as it is for a reason, MANY cost cutting corners in the manufacturing of it at the expense of durability.
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I was being very careful taking it apart, not forcing anything and using good tools. The pics I've seen online helped me a lot with the disassembly. I still don't know if I broke it or it broke during transit. I assumed it was already broken or broke in transit because I didn't apply any force on the button when I lifted the plastic or when sliding the internals out but one fell out. Even if it was broken, you wouldn't know unless the unit was taken apart as the button will hold everything in place.
I agree, this was definitely built to a low price point. I had thoughts of upgrading this but everything is so compact that the only thing possible is swapping out the battery. The 510 is molded into the top cap and clearances are very tight.
My iStick from ecig dot com gives an error "Atomizer short" message after only one day of use. Noticed that my R91 turned down further on the silver (purchased from ecig) vs my black one (purchased from VapeNW). My original one from VapeNW fires and reads, my other box mods read and fire the R91 as well.
I figure it to be the 510 connection. I contacted the seller and asked about warranty replacement. Hope they make this right, if not I've got one that KTM can expect a PM
I figure it to be the 510 connection. I contacted the seller and asked about warranty replacement. Hope they make this right, if not I've got one that KTM can expect a PM
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