Eleaf Istick
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Yes, the Minis DO need a lot of attention.
I think I've gone thru more vliquid using them than any other topper/tank. And yet, it's sooooooooooo worth it!This would have been my suggestion to you as well. Occasionally I'll need to just blow thru them, like a leaky carto tank. And you said you ARE cleaning out the inner tunnel where the coil screws in? It's a collector, fer sure.
Perhaps tho, you are right about the Vaping God. In fact, those were the precise instructions in the manual. "Replace when ya can't stand the gurgling one second more!" But it was written in Chinglish.
Hell, I am loving my no frills 30 (no S). The one with the 16 long wicks. I am still on the original coil that came with it, and after running ~60 ml of juice through it with a couple of cleanings, it is till going strong. I finally broke down and bought a 5-pack of replacement coils from an eBay vendor just to have them on hand. The iClear 30 is a beast of a tank. Phenomenal flavor and vapor, no matter what I put in it. Runs perfectly on the iStick.
Thought I heard someone say there is a chart, comparing how watts are different for the Istick? 
Thought I heard someone say there is a chart, comparing how watts are different for the Istick?
One chart coming up!
Hope you do not get dizzy or abducted by those maths....
Pleasure. Need another chart?
I made a new chart showing what combinations of oHms/watts the iStick is capable of regulating. eLeaf/Joye U.S. confirmed with the manufacturer that the iStick does not have the capability to down regulate power.
The blue bars show what is fully regulated. The purple shows oHms/watts combos that are only regulated when the power level you have selected falls below the volts the battery is actually outputting. If the settings you have chosen are too low to be regulated the iStick screen shows values calculated from oHms law based on your chosen settings rather than showing the actual power coming from the battery that is going to the coil.
For example, if you are using a 1.8 oHm coil the iStick will fully regulated your vape between 10 and 16 watts. However, if you want to vape your 1.8 oHm coil at 7 watts you can not do so until the battery output falls below 3.6 volts. In practice, this would mean you would start vaping at 10 watts with a freshly charged battery with the temperature of the vape going lower until the battery was actually outputting below 3.6 volts. The iStick would then regulate your vape at 7 watts until the battery needed to be recharged. The screen will reflect 7 watts/3.5 volts irrespective what volts are actually being output to the coil.
Using the iStick in voltage mode doesn't change the fact that the iStick is not capable of reducing the power coming from the battery. If the battery is freshly charged, producing around 4.2 volts, and you have set the voltage to 3.8 the iStick will be delivering 4.2 volts, not 3.8 volts, to your coil.
The iStick will not allow you to select a power setting that requires more volts than is allowed in its regulated range. It will stop at the highest setting that the chip can regulate.
You can download the spreadsheet I used for the underlying data if you wish to look at it or modify it for another device. Choose File > Download as from inside the Google spreadsheet itself rather than your browser's menu. The colors on the spreadsheet are done with conditional formatting that matches spec limitations.
The data I used is from doing oHms law calculations. The device may produce something a bit different in actual use. So far, I haven't seen any reviews for the iStick using reliable electronic testing equipment to check its accuracy.
Oh so hard to sit through 39 minutes, I actually could only take about 28 minutes and that was a lot of skipping through. If anybody wants to know he talks about the RMS Vs Mean at about 22 minutes.
Very helpful-thanks-actually you learn it needs to be tweeked (by his review anyway)
I guess everything should be working in RMS mode these days
I guess everything should be working in RMS mode these days
now... is all this graphs, rms, boost circuitry and all that stuff gonna matter to my wife - i'm picking one up for my wife, who's a very very casual user- and all she uses are the kanger mini protank 2's...
just wondering...
best regards,
tonyc
(she's upgrading from ego's)
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now... is all this graphs, rms, boost circuitry and all that stuff gonna matter to my wife - i'm picking one up for my wife, who's a very very casual user- and all she uses are the kanger mini protank 2's...
just wondering...
best regards,
tonyc
(she's upgrading from ego's)
Sounds like you know your way around a vape. You should be able to help her set it so she likes it. Probably at the lowest power setting, coming from an ego-c. If not, she can always go back to her old device.
best regards, larry mac
I might have a solution that worked for me. I have the same setup, mini+istick My problem was gurgling, in combination with what I called "the money-shot problem" (juice would shoot out of the top when firing.) Ok, so long story short: both of these problems would only start after I had been vaping on the same coil for a few days. It's almost like it was building up. What I realize now, because I did some testing is:
I have a bad habit of firing off before having my mouth around it the drip tip. It's a weird way of vaping that I've always done; I just like to firing it off about 1-2 seconds before actually putting my mouth on the tip to draw. It felt cool or something. Anyway, my friend pointed this out to me, since we use the same coils, and have the same setup, and sure enough...this was the problem.
I don't know exactly why, but I think it's something about needing a vacuum to keep the Mini from flooding. And since I was firing it openly often, it just sort of built up over time. But once I changed my ways, everything is perfect again. This may not apply to you, but I would have never imagined that the way I was vaping was the problem. Sure enough, seems to have been it. So just check and see if it's not the unit, but maybe a bit of user-error, like it was for me.
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now... is all this graphs, rms, boost circuitry and all that stuff gonna matter to my wife - i'm picking one up for my wife, who's a very very casual user- and all she uses are the kanger mini protank 2's...
just wondering...
All she needs to know is to start at the lowest setting (3v) if she's using single coil atomizers, like ProTank 2. And she should get the highest resistance coils she can find for her PT2--preferably 2.5Ω--and take it from there. The Stick puts out about 1 full volt higher than it should.
now... is all this graphs, rms, boost circuitry and all that stuff gonna matter to my wife - i'm picking one up for my wife, who's a very very casual user- and all she uses are the kanger mini protank 2's...
just wondering...
best regards,
tonyc
(she's upgrading from ego's)
A word of caution to you...in my personal experience, single coil Kanger clearos, such as the PT2 Mini, taste burnt even at the lowest setting of 3.0V. I have tried 1.8, 2.2, and 2.5 ohm coils, all with the same end result. YMMV.
I've had a similar experience. My 1.8 BVC coils in my Nautys and 1.5 BDC coils in my Kangers are tasting burnt after one full day of use. In two weeks I've gone through more coils than I care to admit. I'm picking up a DNA 30 and keeping the iStick as a backup only. Something very odd is going on with my example and I don't want to insinuate that all are like this, but if I could return it I would. Most people seem happy with it so YMMV.
wow, thats weird. I use 1.6 ohm bvc on my naut mini (although the 2 currently in my setup show as 1.8) and I vape them at 4.0-4.4v on almost all my juices and not a single burnt taste one. I will admit that I change the coil about every 15-20 mls because any more and the coils start to gunk and the airflow decreases. 1 coil I had lasted for 50+ml's before i stopped keeping track. (to be fair I've had quite a few that only lasted 10ml's), but never had a burnt taste
FIFTY ml? Really. That's impressive. But my scorecard, I'm getting around 20-25 before sensing it needs a new coil. 50ml, eh? Wow!
My experience is the same. No matter what the resistance, all my clearos that use Kanger single horizontal coils (which I rebuild using spaced coils and rayon wicks) taste burnt on my iSticks, even set at the lowest voltage/wattage (3.0V). I tried rebuilding the heads as vertical coils, but that didn't help. The same clearos taste terrific on eGo Twist/Vision Spinner-clones and most of my other VV/VW mods, and can handle higher power on those devices, but my iSticks don't like them at all. Go figure.
At this point, both my iSticks are dedicated to Nautilus Mini tanks with BVC coils, which, as has been noted so often in the thread, is a match made in heaven, with the only downside being the $2 price of an authentic Aspire coil. I do appreciate the convenience, however: Vape the BVCs for a week or two until the draw loses its silky smoothness and starts to get ragged, then pitch 'em and put in a new coil head. No fuss, no muss.
YMMV, of course.
If they taste burnt after a day of use, then the problem is not incorrect voltage output--that's sounds more like a wicking issue. Maybe you're using dark, sweet juices? Do you chain vape? Take very long drags?
If the voltage is too high for your particular atty, usually you'll know right away--not after a day of vaping. I'm using a 1.5Ω dual coil atty in my Kanger Emow tank at 3 Eleaf volts and I'm getting a delightful vape. Before that I used a 1.8Ω dual coil in an Aerotank at 3.5v and it was really nice, too. I haven't tried any single-coil atties on the iStick yet.
I don't think I have any 3Ω coils in my stash. BTW, in case you didn't know--the DNA 30 does not step down either: the lowest voltage you can choose on the DNA devices is 4v, if I remember correctly. But, of course, Brandon's chipsets are calibrated correctly.
Hi Kat!
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