Eleaf Istick

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leekeylee

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reddog,

Looks like the iStick might be the wrong APV for you.

After getting my first iStick about two months ago (I now own two), it didn't take me very long to conclude that the iStick would be---for me, anyway---a very specialized power source. My collection of vaping hardware is quite large---I have more than 100 PVs and APVs, and I use them to power many different kinds of Juice Delivery Systems (JDS---i.e., atomizers, often called "toppers" on this thread): old-school 510 and 306 atties for dripping, clearomizers of numerous types and designs (although these days, most of my clearos are bottom-coil clones that use Kanger-style heads, which I rebuild), tanks of many kinds (including Kanger and Aspire tanks, plus RTAs such as Kayfuns and newer generation Orchids, Erlkonigins, etc.), and various RBAs for my bottom-feeder mods. I even sub-ohm moderately with my mechanicals at times, although most of my builds stay in the 1-2 ohm range.

What became apparent and obvious to me early on was that---in my case, at least---I would end up using my iSticks exclusively with either of two devices: the Aspire BVC Mini Nautilus tank or Aspire BVC clearos. And that's what I've done. Why? Because the relatively recent bottom vertical coils from Aspire and their proprietary tanks and clearos that use those coils seem to me perfectly matched with the iStick. The Mini Naut and CE5 clearos are ergonomically and aesthetically well-suited to the diminutive size of the iStick, and the bottom vertical coils are designed in such a way as to easily handle the iStick's rather aggressive implementation of power (Vavg as opposed to Vrms, which may not be the sole cause of your running-too-hot burnt juice symptoms, but is certainly a contributing factor in general).

Right now, I'm running a BVC Mini Naut on one iStick, set to 9 Eleaf watts, and a BVC clearo on the other, set to 8 Eleaf watts. Both could perform well at considerably higher settings---and many people do this---but I'm very satisfied with the vape quality I get right where they are now, which maximizes the run time of the iStick's 2200 mAh battery.

Many iStick owners seem able to make other devices work well on their iSticks, but my experience was similar enough to yours that I gave up trying quite awhile back. The difference is that you're unhappy with your iStick, while I'm quite pleased with both of mine, as long as I use Aspire BVC coils on them. For me, that was the easiest solution. YMMV, of course.

While I mostly enjoy rebuilding coils and heads, I'll admit there's certain charm in getting such a high-quality vaping experience from the Aspires. Use a BVC coil for two weeks or so, then toss it, slap on a brand-new factory coil head, and vape away. No, it's not as inexpensive as a quick rebuild, but it sure is convenient.

A very well thought out reply. Just to throw my comment in on the BVC I like to rebuild and I use a kanger emow mega which is 19mm wide and looks great on my istick and I rebuild the enclosed dual coils to a single vertical micro coil wrapped in Japanese cotton and at 12 eleaf watts on a 1.3ohm coil I am in vape heaven with my 50/50 juice and plenty of airflow.

When you find the right "topper" to suit the istick and your vaping needs then it is a great little mod in my opinion
 

Katya

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Thank K-ya. :wub:

:)

So did you order the bendable? I did not, but I THINK it should work with 19mm tanks, no?

I'm very close to pulling the trigger. I watched the video again and it looks like a perfect diameter for my Emow and Aerotank. I would like to know how tall it is, though. I hate adding extra bulk to my iStick, but a spring-loaded pin is a big plus. I looks (I know that looks can be deceiving) as though our generic AFC and the gizmo are about the same height--can anyone confirm that? 1 cm or so?

Thanks.
 

lulu836

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I've been using ProVaris for quite a while so I am accustomed to "thinking" in volts. Here is my convoluted calculation to use the iStick. I usually build a KFL coil at about 1.6Ω. That works for me on the 'Vari and on the iStick. I add 2.2 to whatever the Ωage is to get to the beginning volts. So a 1.6 coil should start out for me at 3.8V (8.4W). On the iStick with a freshly charged battery I start at 3.0 volts to avoid getting a lungful of burnt cotton smoke. After about an hour of "safety vaping" I set it for 3.8V. I can increase the voltage slowly to find the sweet spot for whatever juice I'm vaping. I've read that the iStick runs at ~1V higher than the indicator shows. I've also read that folks who think in watts subtract .5W from the watts setting.
 

irwink

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Something a large number of people here seem not to realize is that toppers need to be matched to the peculiarities of the iStick. Just because your 1.8 Ω coil/wick assembly worked fine with your high zoot ACME apv doesn't mean it's going to work the same way with the iStick. If you're experiencing dry/burnt hits the resistance of whatever coil you're using with whatever topper is too low for the iStick. Simple remedy - increase the resistance of the coils you're using.

It's not rocket science.
 

Katya

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I kan konfirm.

All the way closed down, the AFC is 6.1mm. Unscrewed, enuf to meet the bottom of the Naughty Mini, it's 6.9mm.

How tall is Mr. Bendable?

Anyone? :)

Mr. Bendable looks a tad, a smidge, taller to my eye... But that spring-loaded pin may be worth the extra price and a couple of millimeters... My iStick is growing on me, warts and all, and now I want to try to protect those stupid threads. :D
 

Rourke

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A very well thought out reply. Just to throw my comment in on the BVC I like to rebuild and I use a kanger emow mega which is 19mm wide and looks great on my istick and I rebuild the enclosed dual coils to a single vertical micro coil wrapped in Japanese cotton and at 12 eleaf watts on a 1.3ohm coil I am in vape heaven with my 50/50 juice and plenty of airflow.

When you find the right "topper" to suit the istick and your vaping needs then it is a great little mod in my opinion

Can you post a pic of your kanger emow mega on top the istick? Thanks.
 

KTMRider

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Hey! Those are special "Eleaf" volts you're using to cook with. :D

But I do hear you. I can barely stomach a 1.8ohm coil at 3.0 volts on this thing. It's tolerable though. Best thing I've done is to wrap a 2.5 ohmish coil for my kayfun.

I've been using 1.5-1.8Ω coils in KF's and no issues. Currently a 1.6Ω in a KFL+ v2 @ 3.4v (7.5w) and Erlk clone with a 1.7Ω @ 3.3v (6.5w). No dry or burnt vapes to be had.
 

ScandaLeX

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20141120_173704_zpsomfd86l2.jpeg


Just a heads up- the bending adapter has 4 grooves in it. You use the supplied tool to tighten it down on the iStick.
Pay attention to what grooves you use- use the 2 SMALLER of the 4. The wider grooves will bend.
 

Katya

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Just a heads up- the bending adapter has 4 grooves in it. You use the supplied tool to tighten it down on the iStick.
Pay attention to what grooves you use- use the 2 SMALLER of the 4. The wider grooves will bend.

Say what????

Scandalex, dear, could you do me a big favor and measure the total height of that gizmo??? Much obliged.
 

BraveNewWorld

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reddog,

Looks like the iStick might be the wrong APV for you.

After getting my first iStick about two months ago (I now own two), it didn't take me very long to conclude that the iStick would be---for me, anyway---a very specialized power source. My collection of vaping hardware is quite large---I have more than 100 PVs and APVs, and I use them to power many different kinds of Juice Delivery Systems (JDS---i.e., atomizers, often called "toppers" on this thread): old-school 510 and 306 atties for dripping, clearomizers of numerous types and designs (although these days, most of my clearos are bottom-coil clones that use Kanger-style heads, which I rebuild), tanks of many kinds (including Kanger and Aspire tanks, plus RTAs such as Kayfuns and newer generation Orchids, Erlkonigins, etc.), and various RBAs for my bottom-feeder mods. I even sub-ohm moderately with my mechanicals at times, although most of my builds stay in the 1-2 ohm range.

What became apparent and obvious to me early on was that---in my case, at least---I would end up using my iSticks exclusively with either of two devices: the Aspire BVC Mini Nautilus tank or Aspire BVC clearos. And that's what I've done. Why? Because the relatively recent bottom vertical coils from Aspire and their proprietary tanks and clearos that use those coils seem to me perfectly matched with the iStick. The Mini Naut and CE5 clearos are ergonomically and aesthetically well-suited to the diminutive size of the iStick, and the bottom vertical coils are designed in such a way as to easily handle the iStick's rather aggressive implementation of power (Vavg as opposed to Vrms, which may not be the sole cause of your running-too-hot burnt juice symptoms, but is certainly a contributing factor in general).

Right now, I'm running a BVC Mini Naut on one iStick, set to 9 Eleaf watts, and a BVC clearo on the other, set to 8 Eleaf watts. Both could perform well at considerably higher settings---and many people do this---but I'm very satisfied with the vape quality I get right where they are now, which maximizes the run time of the iStick's 2200 mAh battery.

Many iStick owners seem able to make other devices work well on their iSticks, but my experience was similar enough to yours that I gave up trying quite awhile back. The difference is that you're unhappy with your iStick, while I'm quite pleased with both of mine, as long as I use Aspire BVC coils on them. For me, that was the easiest solution. YMMV, of course.

While I mostly enjoy rebuilding coils and heads, I'll admit there's certain charm in getting such a high-quality vaping experience from the Aspires. Use a BVC coil for two weeks or so, then toss it, slap on a brand-new factory coil head, and vape away. No, it's not as inexpensive as a quick rebuild, but it sure is convenient.

Thanks for the info. I know I need a BVC, that's apparent now, I just wish it was before I bought what I have already. There's a learning curve running right next to the spending curve....
 

Starlyte2

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I was re-reading the reviews or specs or something, and for me there's a glitch, unhappily....It works on "MEAN" not RMS, so you have a mule style kick at first going down, with your battery's charge, to a hamster stlyle kick...

Unless you spend all your time change the out put, which to me sounds a hassle.

So I've decided to pass on this one, and maybe a V2 will come out soon and have RMS.

Can't imagine why they've brought out a Mean powered Mod, as nearly all are now RMS only, or at least give a choice. It's a shame, as I really was set on getting one, as my only electronic VW jumps from 5W to 12W without warning, a shock that I can't continue to live with, but now that I read this I'm looking at other, more pricey, less attractive, or at least less unusual, Mods...tubes, the only inexpensive alternative.

Back to tubes...oh well, it was too good to be perfect :(
 

Katdarling

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Thanks for the info. I know I need a BVC, that's apparent now, I just wish it was before I bought what I have already. There's a learning curve running right next to the spending curve....


Love it. This should be your tag line. My post of the day award goes to...... YOU! :)
 

ScandaLeX

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Say what????

Scandalex, dear, could you do me a big favor and measure the total height of that gizmo??? Much obliged.

you might want her to check the diameter too ;)

This is adapter only

Diameter 16.35 mm
Height 8.22 mm


Total height of iStick w/Adapter

84.30 mm
 

Katya

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Thanks for the info. I know I need a BVC, that's apparent now, I just wish it was before I bought what I have already. There's a learning curve running right next to the spending curve....

Hehehe... How true. Or you could visit ECF and ask some questions before you buy anything. :D That's what I've been doing for years...

You don't need a BVC coil. But you do need a higher resistance single-coil atty (I'd say ~3Ω), or any old dual-coil atty, or any good RBA with great wicking plus plenty of airflow. :)

Good luck.
 
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