indeed that thought has crossed my mind, it is a plausible contributing factor. someone could be thinking they are increasing the wattage when they aren't and then suddenly they hit the step where it does increase the output and bam!
Eleaf Istick
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indeed that thought has crossed my mind, it is a plausible contributing factor. someone could be thinking they are increasing the wattage when they aren't and then suddenly they hit the step where it does increase the output and bam!
Has anyone with frequent regulation problems tried switching to Volts instead of Watts?
Just thinking that perhaps the istick is unfamiliar with Ohms' law and maybe the faults lie in that part of the board?
Just thinking that perhaps the istick is unfamiliar with Ohms' law and maybe the faults lie in that part of the board?
it knows ohms law, its just not being honest with you about it
eta: well in VV mode it is
Haha no a thingy doesn't cost $250 but in order to make it pro it does!Hey hey hey.....that's not right. A Prothingy doesn't cost $250.
Well, it's not that way precisely....
As VV, once you've shared its old concept about average voltages, you might find peace with it. It's been proved that the board does throw precise average voltages under its expected loads, down to the 0,05 V precision, which is not a little achievement for an inexpensive Chinese board. But even in that mode it brags about some wattage in a little corner, and that's a plain lie (way below the real one if you are not near the maximum average voltage of 5,5 V).
Once you get that, then you should try to stomach the VW part.... dare with it if you like. I couldn't..... In VW mode, it is a big joke. So, if now you discover that when you set up more wattage, the real output does not get increased until an actual new 0,1 V is checked up...well, it does not change the order of magnitude of the joke, it just offers some new detail on it.....
For other reasons (to make my life simple, as in VW we find 25 steps all the way up from 3,0 V, instead of more than a hundred, even if they are not actual steps) I mostly use it as "VV", or in so-called (but not actual) variable voltage mode. I try to think of it as with an old analogue potentiometer of an old Telefunken vacuum tube powered AM radio..... I first switch it on, wait a little, as if it used actual vacuum tubes to get warmed (I usually take a sigh in that precise moment), and then start at minimun, and "turn clockwise" the potentiometer (I mean the up button, of course) until I get my sweet spot. I've found that in that way I fancy the manoeuvre and enjoy it....
... If not, I should return it some time ago. I'm too technical with these things, it's a serious flaw in my character!
The funny thing is that I sold my L-Rider miniLambo (a VV powered by 14500 batteries) which, apart from the tube form factor, was near the same size, if not smaller. It lacked of a serious endurance though, but it was a real VV..... I find peace with the new form factor and its awesome endurance, some days I find difficult to understand how a cheap 'R18650D' polymer-lithium battery can do that, comparing it with my 2500 mAh 18650 cylindrical LI-ion batteries that I use in my other mods....
If only they had put a real good algorithm to check up the actual Ohm's Law as any other actual VW mod..... forget the 510 (it's easy to cope with it with adaptors and some prying up now and then, and it definitively contributes to low down the budget), that's the real pity, just some better programming of its logic in the moment, at factory, when they upload that logic on the chips, something like a '-' instead of a '+', or a 'km' instead of a 'NM'.
There is an urban legend about some Martian probe that got smashed because some engineers put the wrong distance units on it. And it was absolutely real that a minor change of sign did thrash the Hubble telescope, rendering it with a flawed vision. but eventually they got it right.
We cannot........
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Gerrymi, not stosh....
My dad was in the CB radio club in his school I have an idea how old you are, you reminded me of his flashbacks when we talk about the progression of technology
My dad was in the CB radio club in his school I have an idea how old you are, you reminded me of his flashbacks when we talk about the progression of technology
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Thanks Aldenf! I appreciate it.
I always use the lowest possible setting. I haven't gone higher since I got it, I blew two stock kanger coils. Always 3V in voltage mode, in wattage that varies depending on the coil it reads between 5.6-6.0 W. But at 5.6-6.0 W it reads 3V still, because that's still 3 V of course.
I always use the lowest possible setting. I haven't gone higher since I got it, I blew two stock kanger coils. Always 3V in voltage mode, in wattage that varies depending on the coil it reads between 5.6-6.0 W. But at 5.6-6.0 W it reads 3V still, because that's still 3 V of course.
My dad was in the CB radio club in his school I have an idea how old you are, you reminded me of his flashbacks when we talk about the progression of technology
I wonder about what Gerrymi would like to say about that, but in my case (and even risking being rude as I have not waited to that), I toyed with CB, 144 and 425 MHz ham radio, I even applied for an official licensed 144 MHz radio (an EB or 'Echo-Bravo' license)...... Incredible as it may sound, in early eighties in Spain (and I've been told that in most European countries) TV programming did not endure all the day, most of the nights were free of TV emissions and amateur ham hobbyists were crawling the ether...... then someone invented the 'all-day-TV-programming', even if it does not show anything worthwhile, and it was complicated to do some things that were common just five years before.
I guess that I'm too old and perhaps we should raise up some club......... any designs for the membership card?......
I'm just frightened because the one thing I did on weekends with the ham hobby was..... smoking like there wasn't a new day..... I wish they had invented e-cigs then, all this jazz about volts, watts and power had coupled too well with ham radio things (more volts, watts, power, antenna geometry, dipoles, standing waves, Morse code, the list would be an unending one...) and I wouldn't have got into smoking.......
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Well... I spent most of my afternoon at my desk today. A rare occurrence. Vaped a bit too much today and forgot to charge the 'Stick last night. Turned it off. Plugged it in and laid it on my desk. An hour later, I knocked it off the desk onto the carpeted floor. Picked it up and unplugged it. It won't turn on. USB connector is loose in the base. I'll try to find some time over the weekend to open it up. Not expecting much at this point.
Moral of the story? Be very careful with your iStick when it is plugged in.
Good thing I keep my VAMO box mod in my bag...
Moral of the story? Be very careful with your iStick when it is plugged in.
Good thing I keep my VAMO box mod in my bag...
Well... I spent most of my afternoon at my desk today. A rare occurrence. Vaped a bit too much today and forgot to charge the 'Stick last night. Turned it off. Plugged it in and laid it on my desk. An hour later, I knocked it off the desk onto the carpeted floor. Picked it up and unplugged it. It won't turn on. USB connector is loose in the base. I'll try to find some time over the weekend to open it up. Not expecting much at this point.
Moral of the story? Be very careful with your iStick when it is plugged in.
Good thing I keep my VAMO box mod in my bag...
My sympathies to your USB connector. I do hope you can get it going.
KD of 5 mods minimum in purse at all times~
Well... I spent most of my afternoon at my desk today. A rare occurrence. Vaped a bit too much today and forgot to charge the 'Stick last night. Turned it off. Plugged it in and laid it on my desk. An hour later, I knocked it off the desk onto the carpeted floor. Picked it up and unplugged it. It won't turn on. USB connector is loose in the base. I'll try to find some time over the weekend to open it up. Not expecting much at this point.
Moral of the story? Be very careful with your iStick when it is plugged in.
Good thing I keep my VAMO box mod in my bag...
Damn, that sucks. Sorry to hear.
Zombie apocalypse?
I am now the proud owner of two Isticks. ANM atop one and Atomic atop the other. Happyhappy!
I wonder about what Gerrymi would like to say about that, but in my case (and even risking being rude as I have not waited to that), I toyed with CB, 144 and 425 MHz ham radio, I even applied for an official licensed 144 MHz radio (an EB or 'Echo-Bravo' license)...... Incredible as it may sound, in early eighties in Spain (and I've been told that in most European countries) TV programming did not endure all the day, most of the nights were free of TV emissions and amateur ham hobbyists were crawling the ether...... then someone invented the 'all-day-TV-programming', even if it does not show anything worthwhile, and it was complicated to do some things that were common just five years before.
I guess that I'm too old and perhaps we should raise up some club......... any designs for the membership card?......
I'm just frightened because the one thing I did on weekends with the ham hobby was..... smoking like there wasn't a new day..... I wish they had invented e-cigs then, all this jazz about volts, watts and power had coupled too well with ham radio things (more volts, watts, power, antenna geometry, dipoles, standing waves, Morse code, the list would be an unending one...) and I wouldn't have got into smoking.......
Did you apply SWR grease to the antennae so you could shoot skip at night?
A few random thoughts and updates:
-I'm still getting random burnt hits with my istick nauty mini combos. I've kept the wattage lower, and it seems to help a bit. Keeping it around 8-9W, instead of 10ish where I started and it worked fine at forever. Maybe it's getting warmer over time? Hmm.
-I got the Silo tank, the big boy. It's a great tank using the aspire naut bvc's, since I've had troubles with my original Nautilus. It's got the size for an all day vape, and the air draw is really something. I still prefer the taste on my mini ever so slightly- but size wins for the convenience so far.
-Loving my Jwrap. The carbon fiber not only gives it grip, but also keeps it warm. Ex: my other istick with no grip is ice cold when I pick it up. Now that winter is coming, I'd suggest it even more so.
-KTMRider - we're neighbors, very cool. I'm in Los Feliz, but you can find me at the Glendale Target....far too often.
-I'm still getting random burnt hits with my istick nauty mini combos. I've kept the wattage lower, and it seems to help a bit. Keeping it around 8-9W, instead of 10ish where I started and it worked fine at forever. Maybe it's getting warmer over time? Hmm.
-I got the Silo tank, the big boy. It's a great tank using the aspire naut bvc's, since I've had troubles with my original Nautilus. It's got the size for an all day vape, and the air draw is really something. I still prefer the taste on my mini ever so slightly- but size wins for the convenience so far.
-Loving my Jwrap. The carbon fiber not only gives it grip, but also keeps it warm. Ex: my other istick with no grip is ice cold when I pick it up. Now that winter is coming, I'd suggest it even more so.
-KTMRider - we're neighbors, very cool. I'm in Los Feliz, but you can find me at the Glendale Target....far too often.
Well. Got the non-functioning iStick apart. It looks like all the other 'Sticks we've seen...
The 510 connection was soldered much better than LadyPharoh's but has the goopy silicone caulk...
The micro USB port was not treated so well. The two mounting tabs are obvious on either side of the photo. The tab on the left has a tiny bit of solder. The tab on the right has none. The electrical connections look to have been soldered reasonably well but were the only points seemingly holding the port in place. The PCB has no evidence of solder at the mounting locations...
To reattach the port I would have to take the two layers of PCB apart just to get a soldering iron in.
If I got that far without destroying the circuitry, I'd never get the port's electrical connections reattached. They're friggin' tiny! I have much larger hands than the assembly line workers in China and have no automated soldering facility. (28g coil for reference.)...
My iStick still won't turn on. Battery is at 4.08v. I'm thinking the dislodged USB port shorted some pins on the PCB that would have preferred to be left alone. I'm almost positive the chipset is toast.
What have I learned from dissecting my iStick besides confirmation that Eleaf's workmanship and quality control are terrible or non-existent?
There is definitely room for a full-sized 18650.
With some light machine work, a spring-loaded 510 pin should fit, especially with different electronics. It won't be any uglier than the adapters we're currently using.
There is definitely room for an Evolv-type PCB.
The biggest challenge, as KTMRider has mentioned, is fitting buttons to run a DNA chipset. Drilling out the three current button holes in the enclosure and installing tactile switches à la the Hana Modz could be a solution. Perhaps drilling new holes to clear the DNA's screen is necessary. I wish I could get my hands on a YiHi sx130 chipset from the IPV Mini. The sx130 is half the cost or less of a DNA 40. It looks like YiHi is only selling them to Pioneer4You, however.
After seeing the insides of an iStick, I highly recommend the vapors' cliché: make sure you have backups for your backups. Do NOT rely on one iStick as your only reasonable vape. If you're buying one, get three. They're cheap. If you're buying three or more iSticks, forget them and go for an iPV Mini (assuming they're decent) or VaporShark. I predict at least 30% of iSticks will not see six months in working order.
My iStick, however, WILL live again....
The 510 connection was soldered much better than LadyPharoh's but has the goopy silicone caulk...
The micro USB port was not treated so well. The two mounting tabs are obvious on either side of the photo. The tab on the left has a tiny bit of solder. The tab on the right has none. The electrical connections look to have been soldered reasonably well but were the only points seemingly holding the port in place. The PCB has no evidence of solder at the mounting locations...
To reattach the port I would have to take the two layers of PCB apart just to get a soldering iron in.
If I got that far without destroying the circuitry, I'd never get the port's electrical connections reattached. They're friggin' tiny! I have much larger hands than the assembly line workers in China and have no automated soldering facility. (28g coil for reference.)...
My iStick still won't turn on. Battery is at 4.08v. I'm thinking the dislodged USB port shorted some pins on the PCB that would have preferred to be left alone. I'm almost positive the chipset is toast.
What have I learned from dissecting my iStick besides confirmation that Eleaf's workmanship and quality control are terrible or non-existent?
There is definitely room for a full-sized 18650.
With some light machine work, a spring-loaded 510 pin should fit, especially with different electronics. It won't be any uglier than the adapters we're currently using.
There is definitely room for an Evolv-type PCB.
The biggest challenge, as KTMRider has mentioned, is fitting buttons to run a DNA chipset. Drilling out the three current button holes in the enclosure and installing tactile switches à la the Hana Modz could be a solution. Perhaps drilling new holes to clear the DNA's screen is necessary. I wish I could get my hands on a YiHi sx130 chipset from the IPV Mini. The sx130 is half the cost or less of a DNA 40. It looks like YiHi is only selling them to Pioneer4You, however.
After seeing the insides of an iStick, I highly recommend the vapors' cliché: make sure you have backups for your backups. Do NOT rely on one iStick as your only reasonable vape. If you're buying one, get three. They're cheap. If you're buying three or more iSticks, forget them and go for an iPV Mini (assuming they're decent) or VaporShark. I predict at least 30% of iSticks will not see six months in working order.
My iStick, however, WILL live again....
Damn, that sucks. Sorry to hear.
Zombie apocalypse?
Hold on..... I'll get right back to you on this at the end of this post.
Ummm.... careful there, dry. We're in LA. I don't think saying we have "winter" will be funny to most of the Nation.
Well. Got the non-functioning iStick apart. It looks like all the other 'Sticks we've seen...
View attachment 391247
The 510 connection was soldered much better than LadyPharoh's but has the goopy silicone caulk...
View attachment 391248
The micro USB port was not treated so well. The two mounting tabs are obvious on either side of the photo. The tab on the left has a tiny bit of solder. The tab on the right has none. The electrical connections look to have been soldered reasonably well but were the only points seemingly holding the port in place. The PCB has no evidence of solder at the mounting locations...
View attachment 391249
To reattach the port I would have to take the two layers of PCB apart just to get a soldering iron in.
View attachment 391250
If I got that far without destroying the circuitry, I'd never get the port's electrical connections reattached. They're friggin' tiny! I have much larger hands than the assembly line workers in China and have no automated soldering facility. (28g coil for reference.)...
View attachment 391252
My iStick still won't turn on. Battery is at 4.08v. I'm thinking the dislodged USB port shorted some pins on the PCB that would have preferred to be left alone. I'm almost positive the chipset is toast.
What have I learned from dissecting my iStick besides confirmation that Eleaf's workmanship and quality control are terrible or non-existent?
There is definitely room for a full-sized 18650.
With some light machine work, a spring-loaded 510 pin should fit, especially with different electronics. It won't be any uglier than the adapters we're currently using.
There is definitely room for an Evolv-type PCB.
The biggest challenge, as KTMRider has mentioned, is fitting buttons to run a DNA chipset. Drilling out the three current button holes in the enclosure and installing tactile switches à la the Hana Modz could be a solution. Perhaps drilling new holes to clear the DNA's screen is necessary. I wish I could get my hands on a YiHi sx130 chipset from the IPV Mini. The sx130 is half the cost or less of a DNA 40. It looks like YiHi is only selling them to Pioneer4You, however.
After seeing the insides of an iStick, I highly recommend the vapors' cliché: make sure you have backups for your backups. Do NOT rely on one iStick as your only reasonable vape. If you're buying one, get three. They're cheap. If you're buying three or more iSticks, forget them and go for an iPV Mini (assuming they're decent) or VaporShark. I predict at least 30% of iSticks will not see six months in working order.
My iStick, however, WILL live again....
KTM, in the infamous and musical words of Ms. Katya, AHEM.
and then there were five...
KTM, in the infamous and musical words of Ms. Katya, AHEM.
I've got news for you, Kat Darling! Just got an email from Aspire.
Ahem.
Laterz.
I predict at least 30% of iSticks will not see six months in working order.
Oh great!
My iStick, however, WILL live again....
Oh, great!
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