Eleaf Istick

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tiburonfirst

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shack22

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I only been using my istick for a couple weeks and noticed it reads that my atty either has a short , not enough ohms, or no atty at all alot, im using mostly kanger aerotanks or kayfuns, any fixes for this besides screwing and unscrewing my attys

I was having the same issue with a PT2 with rebuilt coils even with the 510-ego adapter. The bending adapter totally fixed it for me
 

Katya

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nope, tweety! ;) the full-size kayfun quartz tank is the one supposed to fit - maybe this one?
$1.34 Kayfun Quartz Glass Tank - also works w/ Orchid V4 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

both ft and ibtanked show the diameter a little larger though than on the plastic tank

Sorry, I'm in a hurry... :facepalm:

You're right. Check IBTanked's specs:

Approximately 19.0 ID 22.00mm OD
1.5mm wall
24.7mm Length

I'm told that the FT Kayfun regular size (not nano) glass tank is just a tad shorter (.7 mm) but it fits.
 

clnire

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I'd try one of those 30 watt iSticks. I was thinking about getting a backup for my iStick, but I'll hold off for now. Lemo Drop might be a good fit with the new design.

I ordered a couple of Kanger Aero Tank Mini bases to see what they do for my Mini Protank 2s anyway. They were on sale at sun-vapers for $3/ea. so I got a couple. They're still on sale if anyone is interested. (I feel like such an old-timer when I mention MPT2s - and I've only been vaping for a little over a year!)

@aldenf: From what I saw in some of the linked posts re: the Erlk, it seems like you can't let it sit for long periods without it leaking out of the air hole. Is that true?
I ordered some mini bases too. I do rebuild my kanger coils and I am very happy with them. I have AFCs for my full size Davide and Protank but use mostly minis. Curious how the air control will improve the minis I am already happy with.
 

clnire

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;)

tumblr_mad7riaNwc1rdeykbo1_500.gif
When I was training my beloved Spock (RIP 12/10/14 at 14++ yrs old) and I would ask him do something he did not understand he would give me that exact look. He did have the ears, too (Belgian Tervuren). He lived long and prospered, and had a peaceful long life.

Back on topic, sorry....
 

aldenf

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...@aldenf: From what I saw in some of the linked posts re: the Erlk, it seems like you can't let it sit for long periods without it leaking out of the air hole. Is that true?

For the last 2 1/2 years, I averaged over 70 hrs/week working. Dripping was out of the question and my RTAs tended to leak often, particularly if they weren't standing upright. I tried numerous builds in my EHPro KFL+ v2 but could never find a build that both vaped well and was leak resistant. That's why I found ways of getting a quality vape out of my ProTank2 w/airflow control through rebuilding the heads.

Then came the Erlkonigin. Cloud Hunter's wicking, that I linked to previously, has proved practically leak-proof and an amazing vape. From a completely empty tank, you might get a bit of initial gurgling/leaking that quickly goes away. If I close the AFC ring before filling, the most I've gotten is some slight gurgling that quickly subsides. If I refill before emptying the tank, rarely do I get a bit of gurgling. Thoroughly priming a new or completely dry wick helps prevent gurgling/leaking after filling.

The trick is cutting the wick so the shoulders make contact with the chimney. The wisp of wick that travels down the liquid channels transports the e-liquid like crazy with both organic Japanese cotton and Rayon. The wet shoulders, against the chimney, act as a seal against the e-liquid. I mistakenly left my Erlk lying on the passenger seat of my black vehicle, in direct sunlight, for a couple of hours. My punishment for such stupid behavior? The slightest bit of gurgling that quickly went away.

The Erlkonigin is shorter than my KFL+, holds 6ml of e-liquid (I've filled it once), provides incredible flavor, has as much airflow as a LEMO (after opening the center pin a bit with a round needle file), can throw gobs of vapor and is highly leak resistant. Do I like my Erlkonigins? You betcha! YMMV. If I remember correctly, KTMRider hasn't had as good of a time with his Erlk clones. Maybe he'll chime in and share his experiences...

If you don't need the 6ml capacity, I would recommend checking out the Erlkonigin Nano you posted earlier. It's getting great reviews but I haven't seen it Stateside yet. It's 10mm shorter with a 3ml capacity and seems the perfect fit on the smaller iStick, Cloupor Mini & VS DNA30 devices. Remember the Erlkonigins are only 20.5mm in diameter! For less than $15, it seems a cheap experiment. My PT2 w/AFC was over $20. If you don't like it, you could sell it for at least $10.

Good luck!
 

tiburonfirst

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Sorry, I'm in a hurry... :facepalm:

You're right. Check IBTanked's specs:

Approximately 19.0 ID 22.00mm OD
1.5mm wall
24.7mm Length

I'm told that the FT Kayfun regular size (not nano) glass tank is just a tad shorter (.7 mm) but it fits.

can't go wrong for a buck and change ;)

my nano arrived yesterday - trying to decide if i'll use a nickel coil or kanthal. i have to admit i'm using mostly the istick and my dna40 is sitting waiting patiently
 

aldenf

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Is the 510 connector "built in" to the top plate on the Istick?

I have a 510 connector that I would like to use to replace the one on my Istick (not a fat daddy, a cheaper one) but will I have to drill out the connector to replace it?

The 510 threads are machined (often poorly) into the cast aluminum alloy top cap. My recommendation would be to drill & tap the existing top cap and screw in the new 510 connector. You may have to file/grind the top cap a bit so the new 510 sits flush & level... All this is assuming you have a new connector with threads and not a press-fit. KTMRider might have suggestions for a press-fit. It might be worth the couple of bucks to order a Fat Daddy or Varitube.
 

gandymarsh

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I think it's possible to use a standard 510 connector to rebuild an iStick. You'd have to, at least, take the top plate off (I'd probably take the innerds out too), drill out the threads with an 11/32" drill bit and press fit it in. Maybe add a bit of superglue, You might need to cut a bit off the bottom of the 510 connector if it's too long. Those 510s are made of brass which isn't real hard but it's harder than aluminum.

01_Connector.jpg
 
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Nanny22

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ccwaters

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ccwaters

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Wow, ccwaters. Which versions HAVEN"T you tried? :)

Have an Amod on order, thats about it, still shopping for an Authentic, not real impressed with the Erlprinz, I'd rank it slightly over the Yilong version.


The 510 threads are machined (often poorly) into the cast aluminum alloy top cap. My recommendation would be to drill & tap the existing top cap and screw in the new 510 connector. You may have to file/grind the top cap a bit so the new 510 sits flush & level... All this is assuming you have a new connector with threads and not a press-fit. KTMRider might have suggestions for a press-fit. It might be worth the couple of bucks to order a Fat Daddy or Varitube.


Not sure how they would hold up, but The repair inserts Fatdaddy has may be a good option as well, I'd bet as soft as the Istick 510 is you wouldn't even need to drill or tap it once it was stripped out, think I may get a set, only 9.99 for three, cheap enough experiment I guess.
 
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Nibs91

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What are your problems with the Nautilus NIbs?

Crackling, lots of it. After vaping a tank, the chamber is full of lots of ejuice. It's not necessarily spitting but I am getting ejuice in my mouth. I have to clean it out with a napkin every time. Tried new coils, different ejuices, changed wattages, pulling softly, different air flows, etc.
 
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