I ain't a newbie, so you must be callin me lazy
I appreciate the info on the mini. That helped me make my mind up to get my wife the 20watt I just ordered
Eleaf Istick
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I ain't a newbie, so you must be callin me lazy
I appreciate the info on the mini. That helped me make my mind up to get my wife the 20watt I just ordered
That's funny you say that. I never took to wattage either until I got the iStick (but just on the iStick).never took to wattage controli got my istick set to vv and that's where it's staying ...........
For the longest time people had to worry about turning up the voltages too far and cooking tanks, atomizers, coils, etc. In the last year or so when the VWs were showing up you set the wattage and the device like the iTaste 134 would automatically adjust the voltage for you once the tank was detected. While you have it set for a certain wattage it wouldn't actually be running at that but automatically adjust according to the resistance. With Twists and Spinners on the other hand using math was the only way to know what the wattages are supposed to be.
For setting a battery or mod at 7w watts with a 2ohm coil in the tank I would step into the VV mode and set the voltage at 3.8v. Adjusting each separately in each mode according to how things vaped. That was without using the math. Now let's see what the math shows.
Voltage = 3.7416573867v easily rounded to 3.8v
Current or amps = 1.870828693A
Resistance = 2 ohms
Wattage = 7w
When placing a mete inline however the true output varies from the settings!
For setting a battery or mod at 7w watts with a 2ohm coil in the tank I would step into the VV mode and set the voltage at 3.8v. Adjusting each separately in each mode according to how things vaped. That was without using the math. Now let's see what the math shows.
Voltage = 3.7416573867v easily rounded to 3.8v
Current or amps = 1.870828693A
Resistance = 2 ohms
Wattage = 7w
When placing a mete inline however the true output varies from the settings!
well ..................... while i don't use vw i'm sure that if you set the wattage too high it'll still burn your coils
the only chip on the market that might help you out is the dna40 which will stop your coils going above a certain temperature. but even with that chip you do have to experiment to find the optimal temp for your coils, wicking material and juice!
the only chip on the market that might help you out is the dna40 which will stop your coils going above a certain temperature. but even with that chip you do have to experiment to find the optimal temp for your coils, wicking material and juice!
There's a few being seen now that offer temp control. But those are mostly seen with the 50w or above mods. The wattage per tank depends a lot on what you put in it as well as what the coils can handle. If the flavor has a menthol base you would run that a bit cooler then simply having menthol added to an existing blend. Lately I requested a tobacco, rum, coconut blend see some menthol added and I can crank that without a hot hit while others have to be keep down like a Spearmint/Menthol where the menthol stands out a lot dominantly.
Now with the newer tanks those are already geared to run at the higher wattages but not as hot as you might think. The vapor inscreases while the vape can remain the same temp wise as far as what type of throat hit you end up with. The higher wattages fire the larger size double not single coils to put a little bit more ejuice into vapor white the difference is simply seeing an easy draw. Now if the flavor starts getting hot at 13w you would turn it down a little to 10w or 11w if not needing a coil replacement or simply cleaned up a bit.
Now with the newer tanks those are already geared to run at the higher wattages but not as hot as you might think. The vapor inscreases while the vape can remain the same temp wise as far as what type of throat hit you end up with. The higher wattages fire the larger size double not single coils to put a little bit more ejuice into vapor white the difference is simply seeing an easy draw. Now if the flavor starts getting hot at 13w you would turn it down a little to 10w or 11w if not needing a coil replacement or simply cleaned up a bit.
I don't get all the VV vs VW angst and debate. But then I've worked in the electrical and electronics world for going on 44 years. The watt is simply a unit of measurement for electrical power. P=I*E. Sure you can calculate it if the resistance and voltage are known. I=E/R. Simple math. You can figure it out in your head or on paper but why not let the device do it for you? It's neither lazy or for newbs. It's the smart thing to do. Why use Excel when you can do the same thing with pencil and paper - eventually? Why drive a car when walking will get you there - eventually?
I've always tried to work smarter, not harder.
I've always tried to work smarter, not harder.
No one is going to want a 9v or 12v mod but they will jump on a 100w or 150w! Marketing as well as ease over trying to calc a VV battery or mod constantly to see what wattage you are set at. Many tanks have a 4.2v to 4.4v maximum. In order to get more watts going the rule of thumb was changing the resistance until better tanks and coils came along. And don't forget those that wanted more and more vapor ending up being "Cloud Chasers" have to be added into the mix as far as wanting more Watts per the $$$!
Here on the other hand "having options" makes a bit more sense then fixed voltage batteries trying to pick out the right clearomizer for as far as the resistance.. And when the first Atlantis arrived it could only be run at the 15w max on the VTR! until the 50w Smok BEC Pro showed up where those 20w and 30w power settings made a large difference depending on which flavor went in as far as vapor and flavor coming out. For the Nautilus 5ml and Nautilus Mini the iStick's 20w peak not constant max output makes the difference with those tanks when needing 13w-15w for something i particular over all the older mods 3-15w or MVP's 6-11w limitations. You're not pushing the max on the battery or mod in use when you have ample more to toss at something.
Here on the other hand "having options" makes a bit more sense then fixed voltage batteries trying to pick out the right clearomizer for as far as the resistance.. And when the first Atlantis arrived it could only be run at the 15w max on the VTR! until the 50w Smok BEC Pro showed up where those 20w and 30w power settings made a large difference depending on which flavor went in as far as vapor and flavor coming out. For the Nautilus 5ml and Nautilus Mini the iStick's 20w peak not constant max output makes the difference with those tanks when needing 13w-15w for something i particular over all the older mods 3-15w or MVP's 6-11w limitations. You're not pushing the max on the battery or mod in use when you have ample more to toss at something.
well ..................... while i don't use vw i'm sure that if you set the wattage too high it'll still burn your coils
the only chip on the market that might help you out is the dna40 which will stop your coils going above a certain temperature. but even with that chip you do have to experiment to find the optimal temp for your coils, wicking material and juice!
Adjusting for the best flavor (VT - variable taste) has always been 100% accurate for me. The numbers displayed just make it easier to set it the same in the future for the same eliquid and topper.
Mrs. Dr. and myself are old school, we're still using the same devices we were back in 2010, dripping on 306LRs. I just ordered her one of these based on the positive feedback, hope she likes it. I'm gonna need my reading glasses to work on these newfangled RDAs
Try some 32gauge wire while you are at it! If you are not good with things like bench assembly that can get a bit tedious trying to work with! This is one of the main reasons companies like Kanger and Aspire were able to see an opening for the premade sub ohm for supply and demand there.
If you are not good with things like bench assembly that can get a bit tedious trying to work with! This is one of the main reasons companies like Kanger and Aspire were able to see an opening for the premade sub ohm for supply and demand there.
Maybe my Math is Off?
But doesn't it take 10.95 Volts to make 150 Watts with a .8 Ohms coil?
Math seems right on, and you only need 13.69306 amps at that voltage.
Wonder how limited the amperage is on some of these mod, don't know myself....
I'm afraid for the most part the math is left to the production design engineers to work out.. When you want the average smoker on the other hand to take notice and start vaping you don't want to see them loaded up with the requirement to learn the electronics dictionary just to learn how to vape. When the experienced vaper feels the vapor getting a bit hot then they know something is turned up too high.
Of course you can always turn the GOD Mod down from 180w to 5w in order to run something cooler on that. And 12v was figuratively speaking until you start looking at the 260w mods which will need a bit as well like three 18650s. 3x20A=60A in series?! 21.64v at right about 12A plus a 10th of an amp or 100mA at 1.8ohms on a 260w mod.
Gee that all? When going to talk to someone not out "chasing clouds"t that wants things "Kept Simple" what do you they will say when you tell them that they have to be specific with calculations in detail? Most likely you will be hearing some (censored) comments in return about sticking something somewhere! The manufacturers know this too!
As far as the limitations that depends largely on design as well as the load placed on a mod. The marketed wattages are based on the 100% ideal circumstances not the real world usage. The 20w max on the iStick is without the load of the tank at whatever ohmage the tank's coil sees. When droppping the Nautilus Mini on along with the Eleaf Ohm and Power meter(Far from the best to be found!) that was showing 19.4w with the 1.8ohm coil the tank came with when turned all the way up for a quick look.
Of course you can always turn the GOD Mod down from 180w to 5w in order to run something cooler on that. And 12v was figuratively speaking until you start looking at the 260w mods which will need a bit as well like three 18650s. 3x20A=60A in series?! 21.64v at right about 12A plus a 10th of an amp or 100mA at 1.8ohms on a 260w mod.
Gee that all? When going to talk to someone not out "chasing clouds"t that wants things "Kept Simple" what do you they will say when you tell them that they have to be specific with calculations in detail? Most likely you will be hearing some (censored) comments in return about sticking something somewhere! The manufacturers know this too!
As far as the limitations that depends largely on design as well as the load placed on a mod. The marketed wattages are based on the 100% ideal circumstances not the real world usage. The 20w max on the iStick is without the load of the tank at whatever ohmage the tank's coil sees. When droppping the Nautilus Mini on along with the Eleaf Ohm and Power meter(Far from the best to be found!) that was showing 19.4w with the 1.8ohm coil the tank came with when turned all the way up for a quick look.
Very Nice and Balanced Review. Thanks for Posting it shack22.
My Only Peeve with it was the Constant reference to the iStick Mini being a "Beginner's" device.
What about us Old-Timers who have just about Every Mod known to Man that want something Small and Cheap for when they are Out-n-About?
LOL
exactly, stosh! i don't know why people won't take that bit of time to find the right setting for their juice and hardware
Yes but 100 or 150 watts sounds much more impressive than 10 or 11 volts. Marketing.
Well since we are the older crowd we should be vaping with all those BIG MODS and not have time for anything tiny or petite as some would say. Only the newbie has something small like the cig lookalike contest or this new small thingy! Some of these reviewers seem to get a bit carried away at times!
exactly, stosh! i don't know why people won't take that bit of time to find the right setting for their juice and hardware
With ejuice coming in here all the time from different places whenever I do any hardware shopping you first need to find the average for many and then specifics for certain ones over others. I found it's not just where the V or W is set but what you put something into to run on what will have an impact. As for individual preferences those almost equal how many finger prints in the world there are since each is different from the next or proceeding.
"Gee it has 4.8v! should be a real Vamo killer!" goes over like lead balloon doesn't it?! If you want to smack the Vamo V6 20w around say that "Well this one offers 100w under the hood compared to that wimpy 20w Vamo!"
The same is often said for other technologies as well. "Well the hard drive is 500 billion 483 million 176.334Kilobytes when seen in a command prompt while the retail box shows "500GB"! What's that all about?" The companies market by the rounded figures as far as the capacity. Likewise tanks and clearomizers, RDAs, etc. are also rounded figures.
I thought this thread had reached a logical conclusion about 40 pages back
then some daft bugger releases the mini and it's groundhog day
then some daft bugger releases the mini and it's groundhog day
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