Being left behind
I feel like the mod builders don't care about anything except pumping up the power !! I still use protank 2 and don't wish to change that. The coils are so easy to rebuild and very cheep to do. I'm happy with 20 W and only vape at low. In stead of fixing the problems with the Istick , Eleaf pumps out higher wattage. I don't want big clouds of smoke. That attitude will get ecigs banned in public. Is that what we want ? If Eleaf does read this than why come out with the same junk pins on the new mini ? I have a Cloupor Mini on order hoping it will be better than the Istick. It is 30 W which I would love to have only 20 W but it is what it is ? What's next ? A plug so you vape with 120 house currant ??
Would I like to see the 20W iStick re-tuned and retrofitted with the new 510? You betcha... I agree with you, SS stingray. With the only caveat being that the 30W iStick might be the best of the iSticks. Here's why... (WARNING: Lengthy, somewhat techie post)
Eleaf apparently fixed the 510 issues with both SS threads and a spring-loaded pin. The 20watter would have to be enlarged slightly as well to accommodate a solid, adjustable 510.
While the 20watter fires 20W within a limited resistance range (approximately 1-1.5Ω), it is essentially a 15 - 18W device, albeit with incredible battery life. The 30watter will, presumably, fire 20+W from .5 - 3+Ω. Assuming a re-tune to RMS, the 30watter should allow splendid vaping from 2 - 8V, across multiple attys and resistances. The 20watter was
never speced to fire below 3V. Have a 1.6Ω coil in your Nautilus/Mini, stock or rebuilt Kanger heads or RTAs? You'll be able to vape it from 5 - 30W, even if Eleaf hasn't raised the max current draw (amps).
Because of the 20watter's mis-tuning, I had to hone my Kanger and RTA builds in the 1.6 - 2.0Ω range. All my tank-type attys vape incredibly well now because the 20W iStick FORCED me to pay more attention to and experiment with my builds. And now I'll be able to keep them at 1.6Ω, which will be much easier to build than the 2.0 - 2.5Ω range low wattage vapers have been forced to build. My 28g builds, in both Kanger heads and RTAs, last me 60+ml of e-liquid before re-wicking. (I really don't know because I've re-wicked long before I've had to.) Some of my coils have more than 100ml through them and still run strong. Additionally, it's very easy to build and install a 28g, 1.6Ω coil in practically any atty.
The 20watter has taught me to maximize battery life, increase flavor and vapor and extend the life of my coils by learning to create more efficient builds. We don't need 50W to chase clouds, if we learn how to build. 10 - 18W is perfect for my tank-type attys and they can chuck some clouds, should I so desire. I am a better builder now and better understand things like heat transference (thermal dynamics) and juice feed, flow and wicking (hydro dynamics) because of the flawed 20W iStick.
The only down-side that I can see is, to reach 8V, Eleaf will have had to raise the peak voltage in the PWM cycle to at least 8V (rather than 5.8/4.8V). This will, no doubt, effect the chipset's efficiency and noticeably lower battery life. I can't see a way around it, unless they've programmed multiple peak voltages across various settings to maximize efficiency. (Say, 4.8Vpk up to a 4.8V setting, 5.8Vpk to a 5.8v setting and 8V for everything above.) It wouldn't be that difficult and would be genius in the current world of vaping technology. To my knowledge, nobody has done this. Though it seems OBVIOUS and EASY to implement. It is also not out of the question. Remember that Eleaf programmed two different peak voltages in the 20watter.
The 30W iStick should be able to fire practically all tank-type attys beautifully. It
should truly be a plug-and-vape device that experienced and advanced vapers can also embrace. (The Atlantis will be a rough one as it doesn't start to sing until 30W or so. I don't like running my mods, especially inexpensive ones, at max capacity for long periods of time.) Drippers who learned how to build their RDAs for the DNA 20/30 will be very happy with the 30W iStick. The 30watter will also have the benefit of being much more efficient than the DNA 20/30 type chipsets and at least equal, if not outlast, the 2500mAh driven DNAs with it's 2200mAh LiPo.
We'll be able to top the 30watter with practically any atty and get a solid experience. The sub-$40, 30W iStick could be THE mod for all but fringe vapers and those who demand temperature protection. For temperature protection, wait for Evolv's new 25W chipset and expect to pay at least $100.
As interesting as the Cloupor Mini is, it is still a DNA 30 type device. It will be comparatively inefficient and won't fire below native battery voltage.
If only Eleaf would better their workmanship, quality control and customer service, we'd all be winners. Of course, the 30W iStick would cost us $60+ then...
Hope everyone had a GREAT weekend!
