Eleaf Istick

[four2109]

I'm sure that the new eGo batts are great. Many like myself just used them when they were first released in 2007 because that's really all there was lol. joyetech came out with them and i remember screwing a drilled out carto on mine and thinking wow... this is the future! Little did i know, right?! After discovering mechanical mods and rebuildable atomizers... i had no need for eGo style batts/carto-tanks etc. Just personal preference and how my vaping evolved.

In reference to performance i was trying to compare the 50W to one of the more "high end" boxes. I've never found the itastes and MVPs and the like satisfying to vape (again personal preference).

Egos in 2007? You might be in a time warp!
In 2009, I bought 801, 901, 401, minis. I think there was a cigar and pipe style available. Then came the 510, and then the Ego... So either late '09 or '10.
I didn't jump in then so I don't remember. Someone here will.

 

[snow blind]

Egos in 2007? You might be in a time warp!
In 2009, I bought 801, 901, 401, minis. I think there was a cigar and pipe style available. Then came the 510, and then the Ego... So either late '09 or '10.
I didn't jump in then so I don't remember. Someone here will.

Egos in 2007, yup! Well, ok might have been beg. 2008... i started with the Joye 510 cigalikes right around there lol. The bigger, full-sized Ego's in 2009.

Edit: I see what you're saying... i've always considered the 510 an eGo in 510 size... the larger ones by mAh... yes... the cigalikes came before the larger manual batteries.

 

[Kent C]

Egos in 2007? You might be in a time warp!
In 2009, I bought 801, 901, 401, minis. I think there was a cigar and pipe style available. Then came the 510, and then the Ego... So either late '09 or '10.
I didn't jump in then so I don't remember. Someone here will.

In October 2009, Janty (and Joyetech) introduced the first eGo.

 

[snow blind]

In October 2009, Janty (and Joyetech) introduced the first eGo.

The Development Path of Joyetech Correct you are sir. Looking back i've always called my 510, 810, 910's... eGos. Everything that's not a box or mech became labeled eGo batteries... sort of like Q-tips... or Kleenex lol. So eGo's from 2007 on and off... dropped in 2010/2011 for mechs.

I do kind of miss the simplicity of the auto-510s! Wonder if we'll have that form factor with 50 watts of VV/VW one day in the future

 

[four2109]

The Development Path of Joyetech Correct you are sir. Looking back i've always called my 510, 810, 910's... eGos. Everything that's not a box or mech became labeled eGo batteries... sort of like Q-tips... or Kleenex lol. So eGo's from 2007 on and off... dropped in 2010/2011 for mechs.

I do kind of miss the simplicity of the auto-510s! Wonder if we'll have that form factor with 50 watts of VV/VW one day in the future

Thanks Kent.
I didn't know what an Ego was when I was buying 801s and 901s. I had to choose between the 401 and 510, and chose the slimmer 401 auto batt. I think the Janty stick was a 14440 batt. I never cared for tubes, so I just built Nicosticks.
The Eroll is a really nice auto batt if you still want something that replicates smoking.

 

[Kent C]

Thanks Kent.
I didn't know what an Ego was when I was buying 801s and 901s. I had to choose between the 401 and 510, and chose the slimmer 401 auto batt. I think the Janty stick was a 14440 batt. I never cared for tubes, so I just built Nicosticks.
The Eroll is a really nice auto batt if you still want something that replicates smoking.

J-Stick was 10440 and not that good. I really liked the J-stick form though I bought 'Bartlebys' because of the in box charger.

http://www.ecigarette-mods.com/bartleby/

 

[snow blind]

Thanks Kent.
I didn't know what an Ego was when I was buying 801s and 901s. I had to choose between the 401 and 510, and chose the slimmer 401 auto batt. I think the Janty stick was a 14440 batt. I never cared for tubes, so I just built Nicosticks.
The Eroll is a really nice auto batt if you still want something that replicates smoking.

Nor did i way back then... but since the industry developed, everything that wasnt a VV/VW box, mech box mod or mech mod became labeled as an eGo-style by a lot in the community (Or just me and my crazy ... circle of vapers lol) inaccurately it seems. I actually picked up an Eroll kit about a year or so ago just to check it out... it's such a cool design for those looking to replace analogs. It's just got nothing for someone who's used to sub-ohm levels of vapor production on a mech lol. It would make a great first step for someone looking to get off of the stinkies though!

 

[IMRs]

I've been noticing that some vendors are calling the Smart20 a clone. My understanding, it is just an iStick 20 with a different name. What do some of you consider a clone?

 

[aldenf]

I've been using my new 30W iStick for 24 hrs now. I fully charged it overnight as it was down 2 bars when I climbed into bed.

I've been in touch with a guy from another forum. We were the techno-snobs hammering the first iStick. Yet we both love them. Full testing will take some time.

We do know that the iStick is firing in PWM, at 22kHz. That's pretty fast folks; 220x faster than a ProVari (around 100Hz). This allows Eleaf to apply some light filtering. (Higher frequencies are easier and cheaper to filter.) Don't expect ProVari level filtering however. The signal is much dirtier than a ProVari but MUCH smoother than the original iStick. It's output is tuned to RMS!

The original iStick's regulation was pretty darned good but tuned to Vavg. The 30W does not seem to regulate as tightly and seems to fire slightly hotter. In the example below, firing at 3V, the 30W iStick is actually firing 3.38V. I believe that is an unloaded measurement. So full testing is required to determine complete regulation capabilities.

At this point, I am VERY happy with the 30watter and would recommend this to my sister. (My sister is my unofficial benchmark as I get all the calls when something is awry.) For $35, this is a no-brainer, except, perhaps, if you're running an Atlantis.

I'll have more thoughts later this evening.

 

[Bikenstein]

I've been noticing that some vendors are calling the Smart20 a clone. My understanding, it is just an iStick 20 with a different name. What do some of you consider a clone?

I would say a clone is an exact copy of the original (not a Frankenstein copy ) that is made by a company other than the original manufacturer. A (copy) would not be to exact specs. If the original manufacturer sells rights to or allows another company to sell it's product under a different name, or if aforementioned company sells it's product under a different name, then it's not a clone, it's still an original. Basically what you're sayin But in biology, a cloned cell has to come from the DNA of an original cell. So with that thought, clones for mods don't exist unless you are able to make one from the exact same parts that the original has. But then it would be an original. Or would it? The first iStick 20 is the only original, all others are clones except for the ones with a different name, but then they can't be called original either. My thoughts

 

[aldenf]

I've been noticing that some vendors are calling the Smart20 a clone. My understanding, it is just an iStick 20 with a different name. What do some of you consider a clone?

It's probably manufactured in the same facility, on the same equipment, by the same workers. That definition is NOT a clone. That is an OEM product. ie. The manufacturer is making identical products for rebranding. Many well-known manufacturers also make "store-branded" or generic versions of their products. It's a way of keeping their facilities running, employees working and the bills paid.

It simply tells me the manufacturer is capable of making the iSticks at a faster rate than demand requires.

 

[Bikenstein]

I've been using my new 30W iStick for 24 hrs now. I fully charged it overnight as it was down 2 bars when I climbed into bed.

I've been in touch with a guy from another forum. We were the techno-snobs hammering the first iStick. Yet we both love them. Full testing will take some time.

We do know that the iStick is firing in PWM, at 22kHz. That's pretty fast folks; 22x faster than a ProVari (around 100Hz). This allows Eleaf to apply some light filtering. (Higher frequencies are easier and cheaper to filter.) Don't expect ProVari level filtering however. The signal is much dirtier than a ProVari but MUCH smoother than the original iStick. It's output is tuned to RMS!

The original iStick's regulation was pretty darned good but tuned to Vavg. The 30W does not seem to regulate as tightly and seems to fire slightly hotter. In the example below, firing at 3V, the 30W iStick is actually firing 3.38V. I believe that is an unloaded measurement. So full testing is required to determine complete regulation capabilities.

At this point, I am VERY happy with the 30watter and would recommend this to my sister. (My sister is my unofficial benchmark as I get all the calls when something is awry.) For $35, this is a no-brainer, except, perhaps, if you're running an Atlantis.

I'll have more thoughts later this evening.

Thanks for the post and verifying the RMS output tuning

 

[Mapultz]

I've been using my new 30W iStick for 24 hrs now. I fully charged it overnight as it was down 2 bars when I climbed into bed.

I've been in touch with a guy from another forum. We were the techno-snobs hammering the first iStick. Yet we both love them. Full testing will take some time.

We do know that the iStick is firing in PWM, at 22kHz. That's pretty fast folks; 22x faster than a ProVari (around 100Hz). This allows Eleaf to apply some light filtering. (Higher frequencies are easier and cheaper to filter.) Don't expect ProVari level filtering however. The signal is much dirtier than a ProVari but MUCH smoother than the original iStick. It's output is tuned to RMS!

The original iStick's regulation was pretty darned good but tuned to Vavg. The 30W does not seem to regulate as tightly and seems to fire slightly hotter. In the example below, firing at 3V, the 30W iStick is actually firing 3.38V. I believe that is an unloaded measurement. So full testing is required to determine complete regulation capabilities.

At this point, I am VERY happy with the 30watter and would recommend this to my sister. (My sister is my unofficial benchmark as I get all the calls when something is awry.) For $35, this is a no-brainer, except, perhaps, if you're running an Atlantis.

I'll have more thoughts later this evening.

I've seen some people swearing it's still mean mode, so this is nice to see.

 

[r77r7r]

It's probably manufactured in the same facility, on the same equipment, by the same workers. That definition is NOT a clone. That is an OEM product. ie. The manufacturer is making identical products for rebranding. Many well-known manufacturers also make "store-branded" or generic versions of their products. It's a way of keeping their facilities running, employees working and the bills paid.

It simply tells me the manufacturer is capable of making the iSticks at a faster rate than demand requires.

Hard to imagine, lol.

 

[IMRs]

Thanks for the input on the 'clone' subject guys. Much appreciated! Have a nice afternoon.

 

[Bikenstein]

I've been using my new 30W iStick for 24 hrs now. I fully charged it overnight as it was down 2 bars when I climbed into bed.

I've been in touch with a guy from another forum. We were the techno-snobs hammering the first iStick. Yet we both love them. Full testing will take some time.

We do know that the iStick is firing in PWM, at 22kHz. That's pretty fast folks; 22x faster than a ProVari (around 100Hz). This allows Eleaf to apply some light filtering. (Higher frequencies are easier and cheaper to filter.) Don't expect ProVari level filtering however. The signal is much dirtier than a ProVari but MUCH smoother than the original iStick. It's output is tuned to RMS!

This, no doubt, is what they were trying to express in their "official statement" when they reported that it was RMS combined with DC. So that clears their name imo. I really like this mod and my wife likes her 20, too. It is a no brainer. Let us know what your sister thinks

 

[aznnp77]

I've been using my new 30W iStick for 24 hrs now. I fully charged it overnight as it was down 2 bars when I climbed into bed.

I've been in touch with a guy from another forum. We were the techno-snobs hammering the first iStick. Yet we both love them. Full testing will take some time.

We do know that the iStick is firing in PWM, at 22kHz. That's pretty fast folks; 22x faster than a ProVari (around 100Hz). This allows Eleaf to apply some light filtering. (Higher frequencies are easier and cheaper to filter.) Don't expect ProVari level filtering however. The signal is much dirtier than a ProVari but MUCH smoother than the original iStick. It's output is tuned to RMS!

The original iStick's regulation was pretty darned good but tuned to Vavg. The 30W does not seem to regulate as tightly and seems to fire slightly hotter. In the example below, firing at 3V, the 30W iStick is actually firing 3.38V. I believe that is an unloaded measurement. So full testing is required to determine complete regulation capabilities.

At this point, I am VERY happy with the 30watter and would recommend this to my sister. (My sister is my unofficial benchmark as I get all the calls when something is awry.) For $35, this is a no-brainer, except, perhaps, if you're running an Atlantis.

I'll have more thoughts later this evening.

Thanks for the information and the chart. Is it always .4 volts off, or does the variation change as you raise the voltage like with the 20w?

 

[irwink]

My 30W arrived in the mail only minutes ago fully charged. I immediately transferred my naut mini w/1.8Ω coil from the 20W stick. On the 20W I was firing the mini at 8W indicated max. Further than that produced a burnt taste. With the 30W I'm at 11W and still playing.

............

Just pushed it in .5W increments to 14W. So far a very definite improvement over the original 20W stick! Vaping great at the indicated 14W!

 

[AnsonJames]

I've been using my new 30W iStick for 24 hrs now. I fully charged it overnight as it was down 2 bars when I climbed into bed.

I've been in touch with a guy from another forum. We were the techno-snobs hammering the first iStick. Yet we both love them. Full testing will take some time.

We do know that the iStick is firing in PWM, at 22kHz. That's pretty fast folks; 22x faster than a ProVari (around 100Hz). This allows Eleaf to apply some light filtering. (Higher frequencies are easier and cheaper to filter.) Don't expect ProVari level filtering however. The signal is much dirtier than a ProVari but MUCH smoother than the original iStick. It's output is tuned to RMS!

The original iStick's regulation was pretty darned good but tuned to Vavg. The 30W does not seem to regulate as tightly and seems to fire slightly hotter. In the example below, firing at 3V, the 30W iStick is actually firing 3.38V. I believe that is an unloaded measurement. So full testing is required to determine complete regulation capabilities.

At this point, I am VERY happy with the 30watter and would recommend this to my sister. (My sister is my unofficial benchmark as I get all the calls when something is awry.) For $35, this is a no-brainer, except, perhaps, if you're running an Atlantis.

I'll have more thoughts later this evening.

Nothing wrong with a slightly "dirty" signal, they're filtering and using RMS. As we say in Ireland - fair play to them!

 

[Ricky Spanish]

This thread looks like it could use some actual iStick 30W owners,

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...scussion/642634-istick-30-issues-already.html