Eleaf Istick

[Bikenstein]

Nothing wrong with a slightly "dirty" signal, they're filtering and using RMS. As we say in Ireland - fair play to them!

I like the dirty signal. It's not a ProVari level signal but it is 27.5 times faster than a ProVari

I like the Dirty 30

 

[billherbst]

We do know that the istick is firing in PWM, at 22kHz. That's pretty fast folks; 22x faster than a ProVari (around 100Hz).

alden,

As I'm sure you know, 22kHz is 2200 times faster than 100Hz, not 22. (Typos be damned.) The only reason I mention this is because 2200 times faster than a ProVari sounds so much more impressive. Now, I'm not an engineer, so I don't know what's involved in setting the pulse rate for a PWM chip---maybe it's as easy as typing numbers into the software code. Or maybe not. And ProVape certainly invested time and energy in more sophisticated post-pulse filtering. At the end of the day, I don't really know if the difference in pulse rate between a ProVari and a 30W iStick is truly significant, sort of meaningful, or basically irrelevant. I'll bet you know, though.

Anyway, I'm glad to confirm that joyetech/eLeaf got the message about mean/avg calibration. OK, they didn't switch to "true" RMS---there's still some discernible power boost at low voltages, and no "actual" bucking below battery voltage. But the 30W and 50W are more accurately calibrated than the 20W, and that makes me smile.

An iStick 30W should be in my mailbox today or tomorrow, and I fear that I'm doomed to pop for a 50W, which will almost certainly lead to a Kanger Subtank and then probably many other new toys I don't need. Gosh, I'm such as easy mark. Some people collect cars or stuff their closets with clothes and shoes. I buy cabinets full of vaping gear. Sigh.

 

[jerseyman32]

I only have one question before i make my mind up about the 30..can i run my aerotanks with either the 1.5 or 1.8 kanger coils and get a good vape at 4.0-4.2 volts when i feel lazy and dont ffeel like building my own?

 

[Bikenstein]

On the rattle issue- just remember to get some sort of wrap. It acts like a bra that will hold that button a bit, and keep it from rattling.

.

A little piece of duct tape stuck above it works, too

 

[aldenf]

alden,

As I'm sure you know, 22kHz is 2200 times faster than 100Hz, not 22. (Typos be damned.) The only reason I mention this is because 2200 times faster than a ProVari sounds so much more impressive. Now, I'm not an engineer, so I don't know what's involved in setting the pulse rate for a PWM chip---maybe it's as easy as typing numbers into the software code. Or maybe not. And ProVape certainly invested time and energy in more sophisticated post-pulse filtering. At the end of the day, I don't really know if the difference in pulse rate between a ProVari and a 30W iStick is truly significant, sort of meaningful, or basically irrelevant. I'll bet you know, though.

Anyway, I'm glad to confirm that Joyetech/eLeaf got the message about mean/avg calibration. OK, they didn't switch to "true" RMS---there's still some discernible power boost at low voltages, and no "actual" bucking below battery voltage. But the 30W and 50W are more accurately calibrated than the 20W, and that makes me smile.

An iStick 30W should be in my mailbox today or tomorrow, and I fear that I'm doomed to pop for a 50W, which will almost certainly lead to a Kanger Subtank and then probably many other new toys I don't need. Gosh, I'm such as easy mark. Some people collect cars or stuff their closets with clothes and shoes. I buy cabinets full of vaping gear. Sigh.

Thanks for catching the mistake, Bill. Redoing the math, it's actually 220x faster than a ProVari. 220*100=22,000

 

[aldenf]

I only have one question before i make my mind up about the 30..can i run my aerotanks with either the 1.5 or 1.8 kanger coils and get a good vape at 4.0-4.2 volts when i feel lazy and dont ffeel like building my own?

In one word? Yes.

 

[scaredmice]

Sorry for falling into some sort of off-topic, but I was told that the Provari does convert DC-DC using PWM at 800 Hz and with huge filtering. That's part of its myth and unquestionable quality.

I could be wrong, and it goes just at 100 Hz. It's not so important, once you filter it.

And 22 KHz is a typical ultrasonic frequency for those 'mosquito repellents' based on mimic the male wind noise to bait the females out (and which often fail miserabily). If it is not an artifact from the filtering chain, it is a clever way of recycling pre-existing electronics....... Anyway, it is way much better than expected and sorts out the main issue: now it seems to calculate Ohm's law and power as it should be from the very beginning. And it does it with some other perks (much improved 510).

eLeaf/iSmoka does seem to hear their clients! And they do not overcharge for that....let's say that those improvements are quite well placed in the final price tag.

I honestly do not know it I had been able to resist the temptation!

Good for them, and for us!....

If only I had known it before it happened! (Proud user of a black 20 W, now with bending adaptor, since October.....).

 

[workman70]

Got mine this evening. First impressions. A little more button rattle than my 20w, but my 20w was pretty tight. 30w is about the same rattle as my wife's 20w. Fires instantly, but is much closer to standard RMS. So, wins so far. The screen also has more rattle. That will be fixed with either double sided tape or hot glue. Have an idea for the button rattle, and we'll call that the workman-mod...lol. Just in case I don't get to it tonight, I'll share it, disassemble unit by loosening caps, pull screen cover up, and cut down some 3M double sided trim tape. Trim that to fit the very end of the button posts, and only peel the tape on one side...and attach the sticky side to the button...leave the other side alone. This will provide buffer between the post and the board contact adding more pressure to keep the buttons firm. Should work no prob, but will let u know when I do it. Only issues I can foresee is tape falling off and causing issues or that adding the cushioned tape may provide too much pressure on contact.

 

[workman70]

In one word? Yes.

Absolutely can.

 

[Javamon]

Here's an update on the 30w after 1 day:

- I have no idea what you are all talking about with the button rattles.
- This thing fires with tons of power, and the battery indicator is moving very slowly.
- Combined with the GS Air tank, I'm getting Tons of vapor and flavor.

Couldn't be more pleased. I'm going to retire my EVODs as fast as I can afford to do so. When money permits, I will push my regular equipment up to 2 30w and 2 GS Air tanks and the EVOD tanks and eGo batteries can go into storage. Yeah.

 

[gerrymi]

The new tank which is authentic with a 1.8 BVC is giving me grief. I can't get it to stop flooding and gurgling. I've taken it apart and cleaned it many times. I tried every suggestions in this forum. putting the bottom back on with air holes shut, open, dry hits, blowing out with the battery on and off....you name it...

Now that aldenf has posted his findings...I'm off to order a 30Watt-iStick. But...before I forget...

I have 3 iSticks(20Watt) with 3 Nauty Mini's. I use 1.8Ω BVC's, run them somewhere around 8 Watts and like best the 2nd largest air hole.

Whenever I (infrequently) get a "hint" of gurgling...I go to the next largest air hole and turn the iStick up 0.5-1 Watt. After 10-15 hits it usually stops gurgling and I go back to my original settings.

Occasionally...I'll have to go up to the largest hole and an additional 2 Watts to clear it.

If that doesn't work...I figure it's telling me I need a new head (which always fixes it).

 

[emmsma]

I was really trying to skip the 30w and wait on the 50, but yall are making it very difficult.

Sadly, I no longer have the budget for it. Route canal scheduled for the 27th. Crown to be placed soon after. Lots and lots of money.

 

[billherbst]

Thanks for catching the mistake, Bill. Redoing the math, it's actually 220x faster than a ProVari. 220*100=22,000

What's one little zero more or less among friends? (Not something a mathematician would say. Or an engineer. But a politician, maybe. Reminds me of the famous quote by Senator Everett Dirksen: "A billion here, a billion there, pretty soon, you're talking real money.")

 

[Javamon]

I was really trying to skip the 30w and wait on the 50, but yall are making it very difficult.

Sadly, I no longer have the budget for it. Route canal scheduled for the 27th. Crown to be placed soon after. Lots and lots of money.

Hang in there. The 30w will be here when you are ready. It seems to be selling well, and I'm sure Eleaf will keep the production moving along.

 

[Bikenstein]

I was really trying to skip the 30w and wait on the 50, but yall are making it very difficult.

Sadly, I no longer have the budget for it. Route canal scheduled for the 27th. Crown to be placed soon after. Lots and lots of money.

I sold a mod and some other stuff to justify orderin 2 - 50's. But the way the 30 performs and the battery life it has, I don't know if I really want one. The only benefit I see is extra battery life for sub ohmin at high power. And I like the fact that you could use the pass thru and set the mod down properly between use as the port is on the side. I don't like laying one on it's side even though I have no scratches or marks on the 30 yet from doin that. Plus I really like the way the 30 fits your hand, too. I don't think the 50 will fit quite as well. I can see havin a use for both.

 

[workman70]

I sold a mod and some other stuff to justify orderin 2 - 50's. But the way the 30 performs and the battery life it has, I don't know if I really want one. The only benefit I see is extra battery life for sub ohmin at high power. And I like the fact that you could use the pass thru and set the mod down properly between use as the port is on the side. I don't like laying one on it's side even though I have no scratches or marks on the 30 yet from doin that. Plus I really like the way the 30 fits your hand, too. I don't think the 50 will fit quite as well. I can see havin a use for both.

I have the patriot rda with a twisted kanthal set up at .45 ohm. Highest power I can run the 30w is 3.78v. If you want to sub-ohm with higher voltage, you will need the 50w. That's why it's already pre-ordered. The 50W will push the RDA up to 5V.

 

[Bikenstein]

Here's an update on the 30w after 1 day:

- I have no idea what you are all talking about with the button rattles..

Mine rattles no more. I didn't use duct tape but I did cut a piece of clear packaging tape to fit the space just above the button. It works, you can't see it, and it 's been there for about three hours now. That'll work until I get a wrap or something. Or maybe just leave it there if it stays.

 

[Bikenstein]

I have the patriot rda with a twisted kanthal set up at .45 ohm. Highest power I can run the 30w is 3.4v. If you want to sub-ohm with higher voltage, you will need the 50w. That's why it's already pre-ordered.

That's why I ordered the 50's too. I only got the 30 because my wife wouldn't let me use her 20 I bought her and I couldn't wait. Does the flashing light go out on the 30 to let you know it's fully charged? I lost the little book.

 

[aldenf]

My previous posts may have spoiled the ending here a bit. I am enjoying my iStick 30W.

For those looking for empirical test results, they'll be a while. The 30W is performing so well for me that any further testing is purely academic.

Let's start at the top.

The 510 connection is much improved. Threading is clean and stainless steel. The center pin is spring-loaded with what appears to be a 3mm travel.

I have topped it with:

510-eGo adapter and EVODv1 & EVOD Glass with 1.6Ω/1.8Ω stock heads and 1.4Ω rebuilds.
ProTank2 w/AFC with rebuilt Kanger heads, both 1.8Ω horizontal and 1.6Ω BVC
AnyVape Peakomizer with 1.6Ω rebuilt Kanger BVC
Erlkonigin Clone with 1.7Ω 28g/rayon
KayfunLite+ v2 with 1.6Ω twisted 30g/rayon
IGO L with 0.8Ω twisted 28g/rayon
Plume Veil Clone with 0.5Ω dual twisted 30g/rayon
Veritas Clone with 0.8Ω single twisted 28g/rayon

All atomizers:

Sit flush and solid with the top cap.
Have solid, consistent resistance.
Fire every time I push the button.


Below the top cap, the 30W appears to be physically identical to the 20W.
- I can hold it and use it in the exact same manner.
- Buttons still rattle. But everything else is solid.
- The brilliant form-factor and weight are the same.

I haven't taken it apart yet. So I can't speak to workmanship and quality control.
- Rest assured that I will be reinforcing the USB with some epoxy or hot glue just as I did my second 20W.


The chipset appears to be doing its job, reasonably close to spec.

Resistance readings are spot on, maybe < 0.1Ω high.
5-30W
2-8V
It fires directly out of sleep and every time I press the button. (ie. no phantom button issues)
PWM, 22kHz with light "filtering"
Every atomizer I put on it fires beautifully with no burning. This is a pretty smooth vape, folks.
It may be firing a bit hot, <25%. But even a minimum of 2.5V will allow us to fire practically anything we have at our preferred vape.
- Even twists/spinners only fire down to 3.2V minimum. Some are higher.
Settings lock works as speced.
Lefty/Righty mode is there.
Still no stealth mode.
The battery still wears those bunny ears.


I could sit here and nit-pick. But I don't expect the 30W iStick to regulate as well as a ProVari, have the build quality of a ZEN Mod or the beauty of many hand-crafted, bespoke mods. If we expect any of the aforementioned, we should be prepared to dig deeper into our pockets.

In summary, if you like the 20W iStick, you will love the 30watter. It is everything the 20W SHOULD have been with more power, across a wider range of resistances. For $35, the iStick 30W is a no-brainer.

I hate typing one-handed.

 

[Ricky Spanish]

- I have no idea what you are all talking about with the button rattles.

The baby rattle effect...