Eleaf Istick

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billybc96

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R77r7r, I find that if I dial down the istick 30 to as low as what I use on my iTaste V3 (about 3.4 volts), I do not get as good a vape in comparison. I end up having to turn up the iStick 30 a bit, to around say...3.7 volts, in order to get a comparable level of vapor and flavor delivery performance, and temperature (using 2.1 ohm iClear 16s on both batteries). The iStick 30 doesn't do as well at the lower power ranges, but upping the power a little works about the same as a lower setting would on a different variable voltage/wattage battery - without causing any adverse harm to your low wattage topper.
 

Bikenstein

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R77r7r, I find that if I dial down the iStick 30 to as low as what I use on my iTaste V3 (about 3.4 volts), I do not get as good a vape in comparison. I end up having to turn up the iStick 30 a bit, to around say...3.7 volts, in order to get a comparable level of vapor and flavor delivery performance, and temperature (using 2.1 ohm iClear 16s on both batteries). The iStick 30 doesn't do as well at the lower power ranges, but upping the power a little works about the same as a lower setting would on a different variable voltage/wattage battery - without causing any adverse harm to your low wattage topper.
How do you know that it is not more accurate than the VV3 and just able to go a little lower? :)
 

TXBiker

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I did TXBiker.
I had destroyed the metal top plate so I had to make something that would hold the FDV 510V4 connector. A little Lexan and the Dremel provided a solution. Not as nice as the laser cut black ones, but there were none of those to be found. :)

Here are a few pictures of the build.

Thanks. I've got pieces of lexan laying around my shop. Maybe I'll experiment a little next week. I've got a couple of those FD v4's sure do like them and it makes life easy not having to deal with a large landing pad when it's time to screw down the top cap.
 

ccwaters

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I'm still struggling to get the Subtank running in a way that I will prefer over an iClear 16 set at around 3.5 volts or less. So far, the Subtank has a propensity for making me cough after a few drags at anything over 11 watts (3.6 volts). Going to an even lower strength juice would help, but I'm feeling that still might not be enough. I may have to try building a higher resistance coil on the Subtank's RBA deck, but I was really hoping to avoid rebuilding again. There's a chance I'll just have to give up on the idea of using a "sub ohm" tank altogether. Instead, this tank could end up being the equivalent of a 1.5 ohm range high juice capacity "clearomizer" for me. That isn't a terrible thing, but maybe something cheaper (like one of those eLeaf tanks?) would have been better suited for what I'm trying to accomplish.

The Sub Tanks are able to use older Kanger heads in place of the OCC heads, Aerotank, no changes, screw it in, and vape, Protank 2, 3, no changes, even as far back as Evod heads, but you'll need to add some height to the silicon seal since it sits to low. Aerotank heads may suit your needs quite well, give it a try, might salvage your purchase.
 

Katdarling

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On the next episode of hoarders...............................:)

I totally resemble that remark.




So, hey- 30watt people. Can you turn these waaaaay down to 3.4V or equivalent watts?? (6 watts??)

Easily, and while I can see how it would be good for starting a karto, there's very little action (vapor-flavor) going on. But yes, you sure can do.
 

Adina

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Just found this for anyone interested in the 50w
iSmoka Eleaf iStick 50 Watt Full Kit
use code "VC10" and get it for $44.99 (with shipping is $49.98 but if you add something else to your cart to make the total before shipping come over $49 then s/h is free)
I know I've posted a few times about good deals on isticks, but no I don't work for eleaf lol :p
 

USMCotaku

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I got ordered a Kanger Subtank Mini for my iStick 30 recently, but I'm curious about the Eleaf GS-AIR 20W Clearomizer as well. So far everyone seems to like the GS-AIR, despite the wonky airflow adjustment screw (that apparently doesn't adjust the airflow much anyway). In comparison, I'm not a fan of the look of the Subtank Mini, but for around $33 it was a pretty good deal for a well rated and full featured device.

Plus, the Subtank actually has 1.2 ohm (mouth-to-lung hit) heads available to buy. None of these other sub ohm tanks seem to have any heads available, other than 0.5 ohm heads. That goes for the Melo so far too (only now just available), which was my 2nd choice in a "sub ohm" tank, but not having a higher than 0.5 ohm head option killed the Melo for me - at least for now. I'll be happy to drop-kick my inconsistent Mini Nautilus once the Subtank Mini arrives. I can hardly wait to try it out.


The 1.2 ohm coils have the same airy draw as the .5 coils, much better for lung hitting. If you really want to mouth to lung, the rba in the full size sub tank is ideal (the rba in the mini has almost as much air flow as the occ heads) or you can use the old dual coil heads in your sub tank, which will definitely cut the air down for mouth to lung vapers
 

Amy87

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View attachment 412027
..................................:)

That's funny :p Every morning when I leave for work, our mail lady is parked right around the corner from my house delivering along that street. She doesnt get to our house until about an hour after I go to work. You don't know how many times as I am passing by her I wanted to stop and ask if she could just go ahead and give me my vape mail now!
:mail:
 
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