Thanks, that seems to help until I switch to the next atty.istick 20w doesn't make connection with most of my atties. Seems like the pin is located too far down. Is there a fix or workaround?The recommended solution is usually to lift the pin gently with a toothpick.
For all of you who are using the Subtank mini, have you had any problems with the drip tip that comes with it getting hot? I've read a few posts with people complaining about that. I was initially wanting the Melo for my istick but I really like the idea of the rba head in the subtank and the new Vaporfi Volt just costs too much :/
It happens, if they're like everyone else they use an adhesive/glue. I've had it pop off on other mods. Used Elmer's glue one time worked for a while then got an adhesive and it stuck well. Clean the mouning location of any leftover adhesive and put a very small amount of glue around the ledge. Press it on. It should stick well.


If it will hold a stock car fender on at 150mph,it will hold your display on!Duct tape............................................![]()

Duct tape............................................![]()
For all of you who are using the Subtank mini, have you had any problems with the drip tip that comes with it getting hot? I've read a few posts with people complaining about that. I was initially wanting the Melo for my Istick but I really like the idea of the rba head in the subtank and the new Vaporfi Volt just costs too much :/
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Fresh out. Used my last roll to fix the engine in my Durango. I'll have to get more.
Thanks, that seems to help until I switch to the next atty.
Is there something more permanent of a solution like fixing a metal piece on the pin or replace the pin altogether?
kind of sucks because I just got it today in the mail. I peaked underneath and it looks like little strips of tape. I'm going out tomorrow anyway so I'll just grab some 3m double sided permanent tape and apply that to it after I clean the old out. If it doesn't hold well I'll get a glue in the future. Thanks![]()


Provari 3 owner here - totally agree.High priced mods are on their way out![]()
Thanks, that seems to help until I switch to the next atty.
Is there something more permanent of a solution like fixing a metal piece on the pin or replace the pin altogether?
When I took the broken iStick apart, I had a hard time getting the screen cover off. It kinda flipped up and bent at a weak point by the "up" button. When replacing it, it wouldn't stick down again. I didn't have any of the clear double stick tape around but I did have some contact cement. The tape that was on there all stuck to the tinted screen cover so it could be seen. Used a toothpick to spread some where I could see the tape being careful not to use too much. Stuck it back on and it worked great.One thing I've noticed on my 30w istick after my earlier comments is that the screen cover is loose in the center like its not taped/glued down there. The top and bottom seem fine though but it feels like without the case on it that it could pop out.
Not sure if this is common.
The 50watt iStick is very accurate, some people report that it's sometimes a tiny bit higher, but no lag time. They fixed the button that rattled on both the 20 and 30w isticks; and like the 30watt, the 50w also has stainless steel threading that doesn't strip. This is the best one yet, and it's so much more asthestically pleasing than other box Mods. It's smaller than it's competitors, and many vapers report how comfortable it is in the hand. The 50watt iStick base is the perfect size for full size tanks, too.I don't notice any lag time with the iStick 50 using the kanger sub tanks or the atlantis @ .50