Eleaf Istick

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WickedWicks

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Jan 13, 2015
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istick 20w doesn't make connection with most of my atties. Seems like the pin is located too far down. Is there a fix or workaround?
The recommended solution is usually to lift the pin gently with a toothpick.
Thanks, that seems to help until I switch to the next atty.
Is there something more permanent of a solution like fixing a metal piece on the pin or replace the pin altogether?
 

inspects

Squonkamaniac
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For all of you who are using the Subtank mini, have you had any problems with the drip tip that comes with it getting hot? I've read a few posts with people complaining about that. I was initially wanting the Melo for my istick but I really like the idea of the rba head in the subtank and the new Vaporfi Volt just costs too much :/

Ceramic, delrin...glass....helps immensely.
 

DEA7H INC

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It happens, if they're like everyone else they use an adhesive/glue. I've had it pop off on other mods. Used Elmer's glue one time worked for a while then got an adhesive and it stuck well. Clean the mouning location of any leftover adhesive and put a very small amount of glue around the ledge. Press it on. It should stick well.

kind of sucks because I just got it today in the mail. I peaked underneath and it looks like little strips of tape. I'm going out tomorrow anyway so I'll just grab some 3m double sided permanent tape and apply that to it after I clean the old out. If it doesn't hold well I'll get a glue in the future. Thanks :)
 

Shel

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For all of you who are using the Subtank mini, have you had any problems with the drip tip that comes with it getting hot? I've read a few posts with people complaining about that. I was initially wanting the Melo for my Istick but I really like the idea of the rba head in the subtank and the new Vaporfi Volt just costs too much :/

Absolutely!

The one thing about the Sub tank that bothered me was the drip tip getting too hot!

I purchased a drip tip made of stainless steel with a pyrex (glass?) tip glued to the base. Cost a bundle, but I figured it would be worth it.

Well, it worked great for about a week, until the glass tip separated from the stainless steel base! Took it back to the B & M store I purchased it from, and they were good enough to exchange it for another one.

That one also lasted about a week and a few days before it also came apart!

I've now got the one pictured below ordered. It is rather expensive ($25), but comes with two glass tips, a shorty (12mm) and a longer (15mm) tip. Also, if these tips break, the site sells replacement glass tips for only $3!

I have a hard time justifying spending $25 for a siimple drip tip, but I am SO thrilled with the Kanger Sub tank, and the IStick 50w that I really want to finally get a drip tip that doesn't burn my mouth, and that feels great when using! At that point, I"ll really feel like I've found my permanant vaping combination! (well, until next month :ohmy:)

If anyone is interested, I'll let you know what I think of the tip once it arrives (hope it'll be here tomorrow, as they are in So. California and I'm in So. California.

SDW_pshop2__05963.1418994248.1280.1280.jpg
 

aldenf

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Thanks, that seems to help until I switch to the next atty.
Is there something more permanent of a solution like fixing a metal piece on the pin or replace the pin altogether?


You can replace the insulator on the 510 center pin with a #60 o-ring, a la the MVP. There are several posts somewhere in this thread that detail the process. Don't expect many attys to sit completely flush on the iStick if you follow this route.

Good luck!
 

aldenf

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kind of sucks because I just got it today in the mail. I peaked underneath and it looks like little strips of tape. I'm going out tomorrow anyway so I'll just grab some 3m double sided permanent tape and apply that to it after I clean the old out. If it doesn't hold well I'll get a glue in the future. Thanks :)


The tinted acrylic is attached from the factory with clear double-stick.
 

gigetto

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Aug 25, 2014
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I was one of the first utilizers of i-stick in my country. For the price i accepted many problems in virtues of the cheap price. I thought that device was a innovation in market the substitute of the ego that from the advent of this device stopped to be the fulcrum of the market of vapers in the world. But...there is a big bad but...

The istick in my opinion is build to have a little life, not for defects of my exemplar but because the istick is constructed to be a use and throw object in a few, very few monts...In fact my 20 w still working not well as new but not to bad has stopped to work after 1/4 of the battery life theorical (330 times of recharge). Now if i vaped 5 ml before recharging i ned to do it in 2-3 ml with a bad erogation in the half the battery thad last too little.....Substantial i was interested in 30w upgrade object because the better electronics, stainless steel pin but now i think the same problems in reliability and duration could be in the new that has the same weak battery, not easyly removable....not a big revolution this product but only a device that would be a revolution, now i'm waiting for the new proposal i hope would be, 100$ BatteryBox long lasting and reliable.....not a chinese use and throw away.....
 

pokemom

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Thanks, that seems to help until I switch to the next atty.
Is there something more permanent of a solution like fixing a metal piece on the pin or replace the pin altogether?

Try adding a small oring under the pin:

http://youtu.be/XjIBwznMdDY

It's a film for an MVP but the theory also holds true for most mod without adjustable 510s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

gandymarsh

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One thing I've noticed on my 30w istick after my earlier comments is that the screen cover is loose in the center like its not taped/glued down there. The top and bottom seem fine though but it feels like without the case on it that it could pop out.

Not sure if this is common.
When I took the broken iStick apart, I had a hard time getting the screen cover off. It kinda flipped up and bent at a weak point by the "up" button. When replacing it, it wouldn't stick down again. I didn't have any of the clear double stick tape around but I did have some contact cement. The tape that was on there all stuck to the tinted screen cover so it could be seen. Used a toothpick to spread some where I could see the tape being careful not to use too much. Stuck it back on and it worked great.

Any kind of rubbery glue would probably work.
 

capthook

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Feb 3, 2015
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Gigetto,
You make an excellent point about the enclosed batteries on the Istick.
While the batteries can be replaced, it is not a 'plug and play' solution.
It will require a bit more effort, tools, and know-how.
For some, it will be easy. For most, not.
So you are basically correct that it is 'disposable' item.
But with the rapid pace of change in this sleek market place,
many will be ready to upgrade their device before the battery life becomes an issue.

For ELeaf, it sounds like a pretty profitable business model.

Edit: With good battery care, I would figure on 1 year a reasonably obtainable mark. Considering the cost of the batteries, $50 is a steal .
 
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StarreLabelle

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I don't notice any lag time with the iStick 50 using the kanger sub tanks or the atlantis @ .50
The 50watt iStick is very accurate, some people report that it's sometimes a tiny bit higher, but no lag time. They fixed the button that rattled on both the 20 and 30w isticks; and like the 30watt, the 50w also has stainless steel threading that doesn't strip. This is the best one yet, and it's so much more asthestically pleasing than other box Mods. It's smaller than it's competitors, and many vapers report how comfortable it is in the hand. The 50watt iStick base is the perfect size for full size tanks, too.
 
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