Eleaf Istick

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tiburonfirst

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Just got an eleaf istick 30W for my birthday...I love it so far but I am super confused on how the voltage and wattage work. Was messing around with it and I found that I went to high with the wattage when all I got was burnt vapor Looking for some information on how to work these two new settings. Thanks!

one fool-proof way - start at the lowest voltage setting and increase till it's to your liking ;) different coils, different juices all shine at different settings and that also depends a lot on your taste ;)
 

BlueVap3

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Don't worry about both settings. Just use VV or VW. Set it at maybe 6-8w or 3.5-4v and increase from there to see where you like it best. Too high and it will burn. It depends on your atty and it's ohm rating along with the juice as to where you like it best and where it performs. It's a personal thing. :)

I am using a Kanger ProTank 2 with a 2.2ohm coil. My mom bought it for me and she said that the store suggested that I buy a sub ohm tank and coil for it work best. and I did try 3.8V and it seems to work much better. Thank you! :)
 

BlueVap3

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one fool-proof way - start at the lowest voltage setting and increase till it's to your liking ;) different coils, different juices all shine at different settings and that also depends a lot on your taste ;)


Thank you! :) I just quit cigarettes again for the third time. I'm hoping this time sticks...so I really want to get involved with the community here. I think it would help.
 

Bikenstein

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Just got an Eleaf iStick 30W for my birthday...I love it so far but I am super confused on how the voltage and wattage work. Was messing around with it and I found that I went to high with the wattage when all I got was burnt vapor Looking for some information on how to work these two new settings. Thanks!

The volts are the power or force of electrons you are supplying to the atomizer and watts is a measurement of the power used. If you increase the volts, you get more power in watts. If you set it for more power in watts, the voltage will increase to provide it. Both vv and vw displays are on the screen at the same time. My wife does fine with her 20w and probably couldn't spell ohm's law...........................I think she heard me a bride.jpg
 

Susaz

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Well, I should have written that I rebuild the Aspire Atlantis heads with vertical coils, while the Kanger Subtank heads get rebuilt with horizontal coils.

The Aspire verticals are trickier than the Kanger horizontals. Basically, the Aspire Atlantis head is a double-tube: a metal outer tube (where the holes are that allow juice to enter) and a second metal inner tube (inside of which sits the vertical coil wrapped in cotton/rayon wicking). In the small space between the two tubes is a strip of sheet-like fabric wicking, which regulates (restricts) the flow of juice to the coil. Without that strip of wicking fabric, the head floods like crazy and is useless. If, in removing the old coil from the head, that fabric comes out, it's a PITA to get back in. The fabric wicking strip will degrade eventually, so I presume the number of rebuilds per factory head to be limited. I don't know how many times exactly, but I'd guess no more than three or four rebuilds per head before that strip is shot. I bought ten clone heads, so I have more than enough to last for quite awhile.

The Kanger Subtank heads are much more straightforward to rebuild with horizontal spaced coils. They're simply larger versions of Kanger's older EVOD-style heads, which I've been rebuilding for the past year and a half.

I watched YouTube vids to learn. I generally do that with every new RDA/RTA I buy just to make sure I don't miss some tip or trick that's helpful or necessary for a specific atomizer.

I still don't give up on my Nautilus, simply because they're convenient. Pop a head and go. I like to fiddle when I'm quiet in the couch, in front of the TV, late at night. During the day is Nautilus day, as I go about on house chores and errands. I'm never sitting too long during the day in one place. I want something small and simple to use to use on the go.
 

BlueVap3

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The volts are the power or force of electrons you are supplying to the atomizer and watts is a measurement of the power used. If you increase the volts, you get more power in watts. If you set it for more power in watts, the voltage will increase to provide it. Both vv and vw displays are on the screen at the same time. My wife does fine with her 20w and probably couldn't spell ohm's law...........................I think she heard meView attachment 425106

Very informative! :) Thank you! Just trying to find the right setting...currently getting more vapor than flavor...hm...
 

tiburonfirst

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Thank you! :) I just quit cigarettes again for the third time. I'm hoping this time sticks...so I really want to get involved with the community here. I think it would help.

you're always welcome to hang out and ask questions if necessary ;) nice bunch of people right here and occasionally they can be even helpful! :D
 

Bikenstein

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Very informative! :) Thank you! Just trying to find the right setting...currently getting more vapor than flavor...hm...

The protank 2 tends to mute flavors. For a cheap flavorful atty, I recommend an eLeaf GS Air. I wouldn't sub ohm with the 30 even though it will do it and there's probably those that do. I had one go out on me. I just don't sub ohm much cause I get enough flavor and cloud with the GSAs. I compares one with a SubTank mini yesterday and the difference was minimal.:2c::vapor:
 

aldenf

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Thanks, Bill! I too rebuild my PT2 heads along with my RTAs & RDAs. I thought that you had discovered a new, dandier build for the SubTank heads that I would want to know about.

I've watched rebuild videos on the Aspire BVCs. Would an outer layer (or two, back-to-back) of KGD be sufficient restriction to replace the "sheet-like fabric wicking" between the tubes? After rebuilding cheap Kanger heads more than a dozen times, it would be nice to get more than 3 or 4 uses out of the more expensive Aspire/Melo/WallyWorld heads.

I'm in the market for a new tank or two; looking at new clearos that also have RBA decks. I'm often working out of town for 4 to 12 weeks at a time. It would be nice to take a handful of rebuilt heads with me as opposed to my entire rebuilding kit. After lurking various threads, it seems that all the new "sub-ohm" clearos have their issues. Some users report leaking and other problems. Some clearos simply don't have RBA decks available. I was leaning toward a SubTank Mini but have recently seen a lot of complaints about them. I always wondered about the juice holes in the heads sitting so far above the bottom of the tank.

I guess I'll have to pick up a couple of new tanks when I have some down time and play with them. When I have free time, vaping as a hobby is fun. When I get crazy and/or busy, I just want easy, so I don't smoke. My entire journey has been about simplifying the process while attaining an exceptional vape.


Cheers!




Well, I should have written that I rebuild the Aspire Atlantis heads with vertical coils, while the Kanger Subtank heads get rebuilt with horizontal coils.

The Aspire verticals are trickier than the Kanger horizontals. Basically, the Aspire Atlantis head is a double-tube: a metal outer tube (where the holes are that allow juice to enter) and a second metal inner tube (inside of which sits the vertical coil wrapped in cotton/rayon wicking). In the small space between the two tubes is a strip of sheet-like fabric wicking, which regulates (restricts) the flow of juice to the coil. Without that strip of wicking fabric, the head floods like crazy and is useless. If, in removing the old coil from the head, that fabric comes out, it's a PITA to get back in. The fabric wicking strip will degrade eventually, so I presume the number of rebuilds per factory head to be limited. I don't know how many times exactly, but I'd guess no more than three or four rebuilds per head before that strip is shot. I bought ten clone heads, so I have more than enough to last for quite awhile.

The Kanger Subtank heads are much more straightforward to rebuild with horizontal spaced coils. They're simply larger versions of Kanger's older EVOD-style heads, which I've been rebuilding for the past year and a half.

I watched YouTube vids to learn. I generally do that with every new RDA/RTA I buy just to make sure I don't miss some tip or trick that's helpful or necessary for a specific atomizer.
 

IMRs

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I am using a Kanger ProTank 2 with a 2.2ohm coil. My mom bought it for me and she said that the store suggested that I buy a sub ohm tank and coil for it work best. and I did try 3.8V and it seems to work much better. Thank you! :)

When I was using the Protanks, they were quite finicky. If you feel that the tank is getting too hot, take a break and let it cool down. Until you get real familiar with it, I would keep it on a lower setting.
 

aldenf

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If you can't get it warrantied, take it apart and see if you can repair it. may be a wire shortin out or something loose, etc.. Solid State electronics are pretty tough. I had one do the same thing in about 10 weeks of use and a free replacement is in the mail now from evape.us iSmoka warranty is 3 months on em.

This is good news, Bike. I was with the understanding that the ISmoka/Eleaf warranty was only valid if purchased from an authorized vendor. As of a few weeks ago, I was also under the impression that the only US authorized reseller was Eleaf USA. I also believed that using a non-Eleaf atty with an iStick voided the warranty. Maybe vendors have more leverage with the manufacturer than end-users? Perhaps Evape is simply a really outstanding vendor. Props for you and Evape!
 

aldenf

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The protank 2 tends to mute flavors. For a cheap flavorful atty, I recommend an eLeaf GS Air. I wouldn't sub ohm with the 30 even though it will do it and there's probably those that do. I had one go out on me. I just don't sub ohm much cause I get enough flavor and cloud with the GSAs. I compares one with a SubTank mini yesterday and the difference was minimal.:2c::vapor:


Minimal difference, huh? The GS Air heads are dual horizontal, right? You're rebuilding them as singles or duals? Any more difficult to rebuild than the old Kanger heads? Maybe I should join the tootle-puffer bandwagon. I do love my Erkonigin clones...

PS. I assume the plant closing was not especially electrifying. :D
 

IMRs

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Minimal difference, huh? The GS Air heads are dual horizontal, right? You're rebuilding them as singles or duals? Any more difficult to rebuild than the old Kanger heads? Maybe I should join the tootle-puffer bandwagon. I do love my Erkonigin clones...

PS. I assume the plant closing was not especially electrifying. :D

I'm still trying to get a full grasp on what a tootle puffer is. I just got a GS the other day and I am sort of rotating the Nauti mini's and the GS Air. Does this mean I am on my way to being a full blown tootle puffer?? Not sure if the mini's count. :confused: :laugh:
 

Bikenstein

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Minimal difference, huh? The GS Air heads are dual horizontal, right? You're rebuilding them as singles or duals? Any more difficult to rebuild than the old Kanger heads? Maybe I should join the tootle-puffer bandwagon. I do love my Erkonigin clones...

PS. I assume the plant closing was not especially electrifying. :D

It's about the same to rebuild. I've got a Subtank Mini and a Delta coming. But I really think the GSA is enuff for me at this point. The GSA on the Vapor shark was doin just as good as the ST Mini on the 30w. I don't know if she had a .5 or 1.2 coil in it. I think it was a 1.2. She had it set at 10 or 15w. I'm sure I could get more out of the mini but not sure I wanna do that or go back to subbin. I get plenty of satisfaction with the TPs :laugh:

ETA: The cap on the coil head is a little hard to deal with when rebuildin. Also you'll need some Tampon de Gaze :)
 
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Cheechako

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I'm still trying to get a full grasp on what a tootle puffer is. I just got a GS the other day and I am sort of rotating the Nauti mini's and the GS Air. Does this mean I am on my way to being a full blown tootle puffer?? Not sure if the mini's count. :confused: :laugh:

Being a tootle puffer ain't bad and you don't have to turn in your man card. :D
 

BlueVap3

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When I was using the Protanks, they were quite finicky. If you feel that the tank is getting too hot, take a break and let it cool down. Until you get real familiar with it, I would keep it on a lower setting.

The problem I am having with this ProTank 2 is that when I vape the juice has a burnt taste to it...I think I am going to go back to the store and try to figure out what tank I can use so this does not happen as often.
 
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