Eleaf Istick

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aldenf

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IF you want both easily rebuildable AND stock replacement heads, your options become limited.
As Highwayman said, the Subtank mini or the Lemo 2 would be good choices.
But neither is exactly cheap nor small.
The GS's are nice for cheap and small and replacement heads, but not easily rebuildable.
If stock heads are not of primary importance, the options become much more numerous.
You mentioned the Erlk/Nano.
I LOVE my Erlk's above all else by miles and miles.... and miles...
You can get an authentic for $$, a Prince for $, or a 'stylized' (clone) for $5 from AngelCigs.
(get 2 for $10 - each gives me 20ml before rewicking = 40 ml = 4 days)
(I've got 1 authentic and 3 AngelCigs clones = all my many other tanks sit on the shelf ha!)
They are monster flavor, light, small, cheap, and hold 8ml. Watch a video for wicking, not hard, just specific.
A nano kit is provided at FT if you wish ($3). I find the small size difference vs. juice capacity a poor tradeoff though.
And if you get an Erlk clone and like it, can't hurt to support the developers and get an authentic for home use.

EK Style Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (8ml) White
$2.66 Replacement Chimney and Tank for Mini EK RTA - stainless steel + PC at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Thanks, capthook!

I have a 1:1 Erlk clone and LOVE it, even more than my KFL+v2 clone. I don't think I want to deal with a build gone bad while backpacking. The entire object of my quest is a good vape while spending a week or two on the trail. Inexpensive gear is desirable should disaster strike. If a head goes bad, I simply swap a new one in. I've been rebuilding Kanger heads for ten months without a problem. @Cheechako 's video makes the GS heads look no more difficult to rebuild. As for nano vs. regular Erlk; I seldom put more than 3ml in my Erlk at a time anyway. I'm told the flavor on the nano is even denser/warmer than the full-sized. At <$10, I guess the GS Air M/MS is a cheap experiment should I end up not liking it.
 

Cheechako

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Thanks, capthook!

I have a 1:1 Erlk clone and LOVE it, even more than my KFL+v2 clone. I don't think I want to deal with a build gone bad while backpacking. The entire object of my quest is a good vape while spending a week or two on the trail. Inexpensive gear is desirable should disaster strike. If a head goes bad, I simply swap a new one in. I've been rebuilding Kanger heads for ten months without a problem. @Cheechako 's video makes the GS heads look no more difficult to rebuild. As for nano vs. regular Erlk; I seldom put more than 3ml in my Erlk at a time anyway. I'm told the flavor on the nano is even denser/warmer than the full-sized. At <$10, I guess the GS Air M/MS is a cheap experiment should I end up not liking it.
The GS Air coils are also reporting a long lasting performance in the tanks, folks are getting 1 to 3 weeks off them!
At a buck fiddy a coil, that's frugal for a blister pack coil user!
(I have gotten better at rebuilding them since the video:))
 

Toastyroadie

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The GS Air coils are also reporting a long lasting performance in the tanks, folks are getting 1 to 3 weeks off them!
At a buck fiddy a coil, that's frugal for a blister pack coil user!
(I have gotten better at rebuilding them since the video:))

Make another video, please, with sound this time, lol. :thumbs::vapor:
 

Bikenstein

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iStick 75, 100 and 150W versions soon to be released
Eleaf To Release 75w, 100w and 150w Versions of The iStick | Guide To Vaping
Have you ever heard the saying “Don’t fix what isn’t broke”? Eleaf has lived by those words as it continues to do the same thing since the start of its popular iStick Series. It’s revising the same product, but adding a small feature here and there to the existing ones and increasing the wattage. It’s a smart way to sell a product, and you can’t knock them because everyone is buying into it simply because they’re getting what they want and at a low-cost. It’s too early to tell what additional features or milliamp rating the new iStick additions will have, but you heard it from us first that the iStick 75w, the iStick 100w and the iStick 150w will be available soon. No further information has become available.
I think they need to fix what's broke first. :)
 
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LynnNC

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I think they need to fix what's broke first. :)
Me too! Although other than the center pins being pushed in too far by attys on my 20Watters, I've not had a problem with my 30Watters, my mini or my 50W.::::knock on wood:::
 

love coffee

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:offtopic:
Happy Saturday! While taking a break from cutting the grass, I thought I'd ask my fellow iStickers a coupla questions. Looking for an inexpensive new clearo with easily rebuildable heads. Looks like the GS Air series is leading my search. I like the AFC on the M best. Can anyone tell me if the vape is noticeably different between the GS Air M and the MS (shorty)? For that matter, does the regular GS vape differently from the M/MS?

Thanks! :D

LOVE my GS-Air family of tanks (I have them all!:wub:). IMO, there is zero difference in the vape from the MS (shorty) and the M. The only difference is the volume the tank holds. And, I see no difference in the vape from ANY of the Air family of tanks. Get the one that suits your needs, or better yet, get one of each! :thumbs: They all use the same coils, which is a slam-dunk win IMHO.
 

IMRs

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I bought my first iStick around 8 or 9 months ago and finally had my first episode with it. I think the center pin finally needs attention. I had a hard time with it, earlier today. I did have the 'Circuit Board Spacer' in it to try it out. I think what might have happened is the 'Spacer' may have pushed the pin in more, so now I may have to operate.
I did pull it up with a mini screwdriver and that worked, but I seriously don't believe that will last.
I've heard talk about putting an o-ring in underneath the firing pin but didn't really pay much attention to how it's actually done so I would like to ask if anyone has a good video on how to do that. Thanks Eleafer's!
vape (chair).gif
 
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