Eleaf Istick
- Thread starter AnsonJames
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A few days ago i posted how my brand new istick 30 fire button wasnt working properly. I am well within the 90 day return period but being a mechanic I like to try to figure out what went wrong with something so I went to Sears today and picked up a set of mini torx screwdrivers and pulled the ends off my istick 30.
First thing apparent was the fire button tab where it presses the switch wasnt lining up with the switch. The board shifted in it. It also had a large gap between the fire button tap and the switch so I took some thick paper and slipped it in there. Worked perfectly except now the buttons for increasing/decreasing the voltage/watts was jammed. Put the top back on and took the bottom off. pushing the board down to line up with the fire button put the switches in a bind so I had to gently pull the cover off that hold the switches triangle buttons in place and reposition them. Put it all back together and it works like brand new.
An observation is the screws they use to hold both ends on are very cheesy. They come out hard and go back in hard. Also I dont think the board was in the proper position to begin with but if it does move again, a drop of glue will solve the problem. And lastly, it is very cheaply made.
The istick 20 I bought over 6 months ago still performs flawlessly and I hope the 30 and the 50 I have will be just as good. Yet after seeing how cheaply the 30 is made, I can only hope.
First thing apparent was the fire button tab where it presses the switch wasnt lining up with the switch. The board shifted in it. It also had a large gap between the fire button tap and the switch so I took some thick paper and slipped it in there. Worked perfectly except now the buttons for increasing/decreasing the voltage/watts was jammed. Put the top back on and took the bottom off. pushing the board down to line up with the fire button put the switches in a bind so I had to gently pull the cover off that hold the switches triangle buttons in place and reposition them. Put it all back together and it works like brand new.
An observation is the screws they use to hold both ends on are very cheesy. They come out hard and go back in hard. Also I dont think the board was in the proper position to begin with but if it does move again, a drop of glue will solve the problem. And lastly, it is very cheaply made.
The istick 20 I bought over 6 months ago still performs flawlessly and I hope the 30 and the 50 I have will be just as good. Yet after seeing how cheaply the 30 is made, I can only hope.
The "claim to fame" of the Prothingy is that it's very well (American) manufactured.
But...I can get about seven 30W-iSticks for what one Prothingy costs.
So...I buy a "cheaply made" 30W-iStick...and it quits working after 91 days. I'll throw it out the window and buy another one. And I'll still be ahead $180!!!
And more than likely before throwing it out, it can usually be fixed.The "claim to fame" of the Prothingy is that it's very well (American) manufactured.
But...I can get about seven 30W-iSticks for what one Prothingy costs.
So...I buy a "cheaply made" 30W-iStick...and it quits working after 91 days. I'll throw it out the window and buy another one. And I'll still be ahead $180!!!
Oh, by the way... Thanks Troll for the 'tip' about the switch on mine. I popped the top off again and moved all of the nonsense around and the firing switch works like a charm again. 
NO. You don't want to go there. You'll move all of the super glue and eventually have to break out the DuctTape.I almost wish something would go wrong with one of mine so I could do "surgery".
The "Bikenstein" school of iStick repair?NO. You don't want to go there. You'll move all of the super glue and eventually have to break out the DuctTape.
I almost wish something would go wrong with one of mine so I could do "surgery".
My 20 is already in the morgue. Wife's is still kicking though..... as is my 30.
I'll give you 5 bucks for every busted oneThe "claim to fame" of the Prothingy is that it's very well (American) manufactured.
But...I can get about seven 30W-iSticks for what one Prothingy costs.
So...I buy a "cheaply made" 30W-iStick...and it quits working after 91 days. I'll throw it out the window and buy another one. And I'll still be ahead $180!!!
When you take the cap off and shine a light down it the first thing evident to me is the fire button that you push is chromed plastic, as well as the end caps. Then seeing the amount of gap between the tit of the fire button and the switch itself just screams to me poor quality control aka cheaply made.
Was also thinking today why would the board slide up and then it dawned on me. Every time I plugged it in to charge, it had a little upward push. I think originally it was up a bit to begin with and now it is fully down but I am sure I will have to eventually take it apart again and slide it back down and put a drop of glue between the board and the housing.
Wow, did not know the end caps were plastic...combined with the other observations, now I see what you mean!
Glad they lend themselves to lifting the hood and possible repairs.
While certainly not high-grade, the end caps and buttons are not plastic; at least my 20 & 30W arent. They're some kind of aluminum or zinc alloy (non-magnetic).
When I look at my iSticks I don't see cheap, I see inexpensive. When I think cheap, I think eGo battery, or Vamo, or maybe even first gen eVic!
edit: I can't believe I said that about my beloved old eVic
edit: I can't believe I said that about my beloved old eVic
This is my logic, too, Cheech! One week, $65 a carton for me. That's two isticks, or thereabouts, each week. Or 6 GS Air "M"s.
Wait a minute .... I should be rich off the savings by now ........ must be the dang juice and coils.
This is my logic, too, Cheech! One week, $65 a carton for me. That's two isticks, or thereabouts, each week. Or 6 GS Air "M"s.
Wait a minute .... I should be rich off the savings by now ........ must be the dang juice and coils.
Too true!- Status
