Erlkonigin and Clone Comparison

[tchavei]

KTMRider: if you're still having trouble I have a suggestion, your wick is too long perhaps.

General rule of thumb I use for wick length on the Erl...
Wicking that goes down vertical juice channel: when dry and horizontal, never goes past a line vertical from the o-ring on the base.
Wick in the chimney: when dry and horizontal never goes far past a line vertical from the chimney threading on the base.
(you want the wick to just block the chimney, not possibly rotate with it when you screw the chimney on)

YMMV, but those rules haven't failed me... yet. lol

edit: using a pic of yours as example:
View attachment 386522

Agree. I do the same

One thing I used to do was to screw on the chimney and then remove it and check the wick... If it gets all distorted and out of the channels, it's too much. On my best builds so far, the chimney can be screwed on without a hint of feeling the wick rubbing on it until it's almost completely tighten.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[KTMRider]

KTMRider: if you're still having trouble I have a suggestion, your wick is too long perhaps.

General rule of thumb I use for wick length on the Erl...
Wicking that goes down vertical juice channel: when dry and horizontal, never goes past a line vertical from the o-ring on the base.
Wick in the chimney: when dry and horizontal never goes far past a line vertical from the chimney threading on the base.
(you want the wick to just block the chimney, not possibly rotate with it when you screw the chimney on)

YMMV, but those rules haven't failed me... yet. lol

edit: using a pic of yours as example:
View attachment 386522
apologies for the basic Paint job, but I hope it helps. lol

I started with a bit more because of a leaking issue (turned out to be the o-ring at the top of the chimney) and have been trimming the wick after testing for a few mins. I had to empty the tank each time and got juice all over my hands so I stopped taking pics after that.

 

[vakaion]

tchavei: I used to check too. After a few re-wicks I realized I didn't need to if I applied those rules. Yes, I'm lazy lol.
I'm actually getting to the point where I trim a little off the tops of the chimney wick to free up airflow. As long as the coil has the right density of wick the tail either side seems fine with a little less.

 

[tchavei]

There is a way to remove the base without running the liquid.

Vaperr knows how to do it.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[tchavei]

tchavei: I used to check too. After a few re-wicks I realized I didn't need to if I applied those rules. Yes, I'm lazy lol.
I'm actually getting to the point where I trim a little off the tops of the chimney wick to free up airflow. As long as the coil has the right density of wick the tail either side seems fine with a little less.

I've been trimming a lot trying to find perfection. I thought today's build was perfect but I think I went too far. Next build I will trim less. Rather have the first couple of draws off and then perfection than having perfection and on the next tank over saturation.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[vakaion]

I started with a bit more because of a leaking issue (turned out to be the o-ring at the top of the chimney) and have been trimming the wick after testing for a few mins. I had to empty the tank each time and got juice all over my hands so I stopped taking pics after that.

Ah okay!
To remove the base without emptying (I succeed about 3 outta every 4 tries) I unscrew the top a tiny bit so the o-ring has nearly lost it's seal, push the tank tube up firm on the top cap, flip upside down and unscrew the base.
1 slip and you're juiced though haha.

 

[KTMRider]

There is a way to remove the base without running the liquid.

Vaperr knows how to do it.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

Ah okay!
To remove the base without emptying (I succeed about 3 outta every 4 tries) I unscrew the top a tiny bit so the o-ring has nearly lost it's seal, push the tank tube up firm on the top cap, flip upside down and unscrew the base.
1 slip and you're juiced though haha.

Yeah, I saw how he did it. It's easier for me to just use a syringe with 16ga needle to empty the tank. I only lose the juice in the wicks and it doesn't flood.

 

[jaxgator]

...but it used to? Your first post in this thread said all authentic parts fit on the clone, but that the clone's chimney did not fit on the authentic.

Ah geez! You caught me a second time screwing that up. Tony caught me the first time. My bad.

Hell, even I can't remember now. I guess I need to tear down the clone and an authentic and try again to make sure.

I so wish I had made that washer in the beginning I obviously forcibly unscrewed my 510 pin on my WAE2 beyond where it was supposed to be, and damaged the threads.............. oh well, hopefully Mark (Bugs) can get me a new 510 pin assembly....

I hope Mark (that can't be his real name, can it?) helps you get it straightened out.

That was the main reason I wanted the SqR was the larger air flow, but the Earl seems to have decent air flow, I have had little problem drawing lung hits and producing some decent vapor clouds....and with a 2mm air tube (see my above post with question) that would pretty much eliminate any restrictive air draw, at least I think.

Actually, kind of. The Sqr, opened up all the way is a very airy draw. The ErlK, even with the afc and an optional open air posi pole holder, is not quite as airy. Don't get me wrong, lung hits are still possible but it feels a bit more restrictive than the SQr. It's a trade off for a lighter, shorter and larger quantity tank. The latter trumps the former, imo.

KTM? You're doing it the lazy man's way. Yes, I know, I posted images from one of qorax's build like you've done above but believe me, the ErlK requires finesse. Some have even said they learned to become a barber with wicking the ErlK. Please try the following...

There is a way to remove the base without running the liquid.

Vaperr knows how to do it.

Ah okay!
To remove the base without emptying (I succeed about 3 outta every 4 tries) I unscrew the top a tiny bit so the o-ring has nearly lost it's seal, push the tank tube up firm on the top cap, flip upside down and unscrew the base.
1 slip and you're juiced though haha.

Yup, exactly how I do it vakaion. vapdivrr taught me that.

Yeah, I saw how he did it. It's easier for me to just use a syringe with 16ga needle to empty the tank. I only lose the juice in the wicks and it doesn't flood.

Or that works as well too.

 

[KTMRider]

KTM? You're doing it the lazy man's way. Yes, I know, I posted images from one of qorax's build like you've done above but believe me, the ErlK requires finesse. Some have even said they learned to become a barber with wicking the ErlK. Please try the following...

I started with it this way because I had the leaking issue. I did end up trimming it with small tails.

 

[roxynoodle]

Jax, what ID coil are you using? Want to make sure I get enough wick in it.

 

[jaxgator]

Jax, what ID coil are you using? Want to make sure I get enough wick in it.

Dangit! I hate when people ask me that. Reason being is that I use the Coil Winding Gizmo and it came with 4 or 5 different mandrels. The two that I would use are 1.5mm and 3mm (using the 3mm for Nickel builds currently). I use neither for my Kanthal builds. I used a wire hanger that is in between those two diameters and would guess that it is right around 2mm give or take.

 

[KTMRider]

Get a micrometer!!!

I use drill bits. 5/64 (1.98mm), 3/32 (2.38mm), 7/64 (2.78mm) and 1/8 (3.17mm). I usually use the first 2 for my builds.

I use a Blue Point (Snap On) digital caliper but it's just like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html

HF usually has a coupon for $10 for this caliper.

 

[Phone Guy]

I usually build coils on a precision screwdriver from a kit where they are labeled in millimeter size.

I don't think it's rocket science, coil building...like horse shoes, close enough counts!

 

[roxynoodle]

I was going to try 3/32" but wondering if I should go up to 7/64".

 

[roxynoodle]

I usually build coils on a precision screwdriver from a kit where they are labeled in millimeter size.

I don't think it's rocket science, coil building...like horse shoes, close enough counts!

Yep, use those, too, sometimes. I just don't want to go too small and have floods.

 

[PLANofMAN]

Ive seen the clone with the steel drip tip and adapter, is there a clone with the 2mm air post? or is that an original piece?
Linky???

It is the $15 (plus change) version. Yep, comes with steel drip tip, adapter and large airflow base.

Edit: see post #13 in this thread for pics, links, and note details.

 

[petemoss]

$15 for a decent ErlK clone! That's a real bargain. I splurged and got a $17 clone from Angelcigs. Works as well as my originals tbh, and makes me wish I was a little more patient before springing for an overpriced original. Next time I'll wait for the clone!


I forgot to add that this shipped from the US in four days. It's not perfect. Due to a short center pin, it doesn't fire on my ZNA's but I'm not complaining.

 

[dwcraig1]

I am without my Erlk clone as well as the IPV2 that it was sitting on. The wife decided she wanted it after using it in the car today.
She gave me her Hana clone with a Taifun in return. I have TGT's out the ying yang.........so I ordered a couple more Erlk's from FT and a Sigelei 100watt box.
I was looking for an excuse anyway.
My wife still likes stinky's, I'd really like to change that.

 

[PLANofMAN]

$15 for a decent ErlK clone! That's a real bargain. I splurged and got a $17 clone from Angelcigs. Works as well as my originals tbh, and makes me wish I was a little more patient before springing for an overpriced original. Next time I'll wait for the clone!


I forgot to add that this shipped from the US in four days. It's not perfect. Due to a short center pin, it doesn't fire on my ZNA's but I'm not complaining.

Well in that case, I'll trade you three PAPS clones for that original PAPS.

As for the ZNA problem, I have two suggestions. Both cost money.
$22 Option 1, Hybrid Kit: Z-1
$15 Option 2, adjustable 510 screw: Z2.2 510 Upgrade Kit – ElectronicStix.Com

Now if you lied, and you're actually using a ZNA clone...don't worry, these work on both the Robbot and the Hotcig version. (well, the hybrid kit anyways, I don't know if the 510 adapter works on the hotcig ZNA, but it's supposed to be adjustable right out of the box.)

Edit: I tried to resist, I really did, but I went and ordered that dang hybrid kit. Looks like my Kayfun clones and Heron clones might get to play on my Robbot ZNA every once in a while. I don't imagine a 21 mm atty on a 22 mm hybrid looks great.

 

[Phone Guy]

It is the $15 (plus change) version. Yep, comes with steel drip tip, adapter and large airflow base.

Edit: see post #13 in this thread for pics, links, and note details.

Thanks, I guess I'll have to order that one :/