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I have nothing to compare it to, but an ego twist @ 4.2 with a 2.4ohm vivi nova and with the evo i needed a 2.8ohm on the low setting and even that is really warm. I also run a 1.5ohm dct on the low setting at the moment as i'm also trying to figure out how many punches needed/juice consumption as to where is stays perfect for my draw. 
P.S
Which makes sense with the ohms/V that I've read the gold rated at 4.5/5.5/6.5
P.S
Which makes sense with the ohms/V that I've read the gold rated at 4.5/5.5/6.5
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See this is what had me tripped up right now. If the Gold is Version 3, what is it's characteristics? just two vent holes on the bottom batter cap and the triangle thing on the cover cap, with the "blast away" fitting on both caps? Does the version three have vent holes in the body itself?
If indeed the vaporus one is version 2.5 and i have also asked a few other vendors they say there is no way, no how, no chance of using aw imr's as the aw's will not fit in the tube (for whatever reason), yet i use two 16340's that are aw imr's in my so i am scratching my head saying "whuzzah whuzzah".
This being said, again i have the 3.7V 550mah aw imr's in there and i am getting 12+ hours on the highest setting which is cool. I have taken some pictures to show what i get on what setting
View attachment 122283 This is my lowest green setting
View attachment 122284 Here is the yellow setting
View attachment 122285 My output on red, i know it is not much of a difference but i am on like my 11th hour with these set of batteries. On a fresh charge i am topping out at 6V
dull pointing device courtesy of my Sony touch screen e-reader
that is exactly why my silver one is -- either way i am not complaining at the price of the mod when i got it
with the discount coupon and delivery it was still under $25 back when i got it, not sure if they are still on sale though~edit: come to think about it, was not the version 2.5's prone to just a little tap and the button sensor switch would break? LOL like i said i dropped mine a few times, not one scratch or ding on it, so i am happy with it, and thinking i could ask for the gold for Christmas
~
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If the EVO v3 (gold) has vents, is it still recommended to do mindfield's mod with the hot spring or do the vents take care of the safety issue?
The vents would take care of the safety issue. The only reason I did a video for that mod was because the version I reviewed and was using at the time had no vents in the battery tube at all - and really almost no air flow to vent gases around the batteries in any event. My mod using the outer cap solved both issues, though you'll probably want to go the extra step of putting in a few strips of thin foam tape on the inside of the outer tube to stabilize the batteries, otherwise you get some rattle. But with versions that have vent holes in the battery cap my mod isn't quite as necessary. There's still a bit of an issue of airflow around the batteries in that tube as it has a fairly tight tolerance, so you can still do my mod if that concerns you.
I "bent" the threads on my bottom cap (dropped it and it kinda curved inwards, which 'effed up the threads making it impossible to screw the cap unto the control head), so I took the top cap and put in a hot spring just like you did. Works perfect now. There's a little bit of rattling, but this aint the end of the world now is it?
Not at all, mine has always maintaned a proper connection even with the bit of rattle, so it's a good way to effect a MacGyver repair on it if you damage the battery tube as well.
Well as i'm currently still having issues with my 1st dct setup, I have in turn went back to a stardust V2 with a 3.2ohm head and jesus i think it wicked like 0.5ml just walking down the street to the bus stop and that was on the low setting but on occasion i'll jump it to the medium for that nice hotter vape.
I've just recently exhausted my supply of dct cartos and have resorted back to using regular short boge's. Found the same intermittent firing issue was happening to me when I tighten the carto all the way down. Upon closer inspection, I saw it was because the center post of the carto protrudes further than my old smokteks and ends up bottoming out on the 510 connector and bending towards one side causing it to short.
The EVO flashes the white LED indicating something is wrong and doesn't fire.
So i was left with no option but to loosely thread the carto in order to vape. Later then decided to punch the carto, and use it in a modified (shortened tube section) mini dct tank because i got tired of constantly filling and waiting for it to soak in order to vape, plus the fear of a nasty dry hit. This made stabilizing a little easier since my fingers are no longer touching a hot carto, but the wobbling was pretty noticeable due to the loose connection.
Since the EVO is an EGO style connection, and I got used to the flange on the smokteks. During a refill I accidentally pushed too far down and the tank slid down past the carto onto the riser connection which resulted in juice running down the entire device. Got fed up, and grabbed my old trusty ego batteries from my vaping box and started using them instead. I noticed that one of my batteries had a collar which screws onto the outer ego threads to give dct a finished look and put it over the riser connection of the EVO.
The EVO doesn't have threads to attach the collar, so I used an o-ring from a drip tip to hold it in place. This effectively prevented the tank from accidentally sliding down, and stopped the tank from wobbling because it provided a little upward tension. Life is good again, and my EVO looks better too!
With the pics in here referring to voltage testing, looks like a 510/ego connector on there. I don't have any adapter is there anything else i can put the negative to? I would like to see what mine is roughly firing at.
If you are more skilled then myself:
But the Positive on the center pin, put the negative on the internal rings (make sure neither probe touched) and fire the pin
But the Positive on the center pin, put the negative on the internal rings (make sure neither probe touched) and fire the pin
on a Evo? yes directly on the inner threads they act as the negative ground, but it is a tight in there with the prongs lol
I've just recently exhausted my supply of dct cartos and have resorted back to using regular short boge's. Found the same intermittent firing issue was happening to me when I tighten the carto all the way down. Upon closer inspection, I saw it was because the center post of the carto protrudes further than my old smokteks and ends up bottoming out on the 510 connector and bending towards one side causing it to short.
The EVO flashes the white LED indicating something is wrong and doesn't fire.
So i was left with no option but to loosely thread the carto in order to vape. Later then decided to punch the carto, and use it in a modified (shortened tube section) mini dct tank because i got tired of constantly filling and waiting for it to soak in order to vape, plus the fear of a nasty dry hit. This made stabilizing a little easier since my fingers are no longer touching a hot carto, but the wobbling was pretty noticeable due to the loose connection.
Since the EVO is an EGO style connection, and I got used to the flange on the smokteks. During a refill I accidentally pushed too far down and the tank slid down past the carto onto the riser connection which resulted in juice running down the entire device. Got fed up, and grabbed my old trusty ego batteries from my vaping box and started using them instead. I noticed that one of my batteries had a collar which screws onto the outer ego threads to give dct a finished look and put it over the riser connection of the EVO.
The EVO doesn't have threads to attach the collar, so I used an o-ring from a drip tip to hold it in place. This effectively prevented the tank from accidentally sliding down, and stopped the tank from wobbling because it provided a little upward tension. Life is good again, and my EVO looks better too!
View attachment 122551View attachment 122552View attachment 122553
I too have an EVO that had the exact same issues. I was on to my second unit that I bought from Vaporus. First one failed 3 weeks in, circuitry fried. The second had the white flashy thing going on 2 weeks in. I guess my warranty was up since vaporus didnt want to send me a new one. I was loving the vape on my evo with dual coils. I couldnt go back to my KGO.
So I decided I was going to take it apart. First I tried the bottom...no luck. Then I started farting around with the center pin, didnt realize how loose it was. Thats when I saw the o ring underneath was cut. I pulled it out, and it was a shadow of its former self. Brittle and cracked, shrunk from original size. A-Ha...I thought. This is what was causing the short, white flashy thing. So I got myself an o-ring from work, with the use of 2 dental picks I was able to get the new ring over and slightly under the center post. YES!! my baby was back!!!
Still going strong 5 months later.
Is that with Freshly charged aw imr's in it? I am asking as when i got mine i volted it (checked what it was putting out) and i got pretty much the same read out. I know this as i was laughing and trying to figure out that on the red setting (5.96) was the same as the Altoids box mod so the cart's and such i used should have hit the same but was disappointed when that was the case, then summed up it was the PWM that was doing it, i think somewhere earlier on i posted that finding on the site....
I can tell you that the PWM (pulse width modulation) has alot to do with how the EVO puts out the power and how it makes the carts hit so nice and warm and hard like
I contacted Vaporus and i was told their chrome is version 2.5 and you cannot get aw imr's in there (how am i running mine with 16340's?
), that there is a version 3 and now there is a version 4 and on the eve of the release for the version 5 (confused as 
as i am?)still ltrying to figure out in detail what the improvements are on V2.5 to V3 to V4 or how to physically tell them apart
No this was after a days use and an idle day of it just laying there, as I went back to the ego to really ponder the "right" vape for me, but after some thought and meter tests. I figure I enjoy around 6 watts(+/-0.5) that being said no wonder I'm still having issues with the evo running too hot, I require 4ohm's.
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