Evod coil question

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venemous

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Bought an EVOD kit - coils that came in the tank are different than the replacements in the kit. The replacements are longer and have a larger inside diameter. Had to replace the coil in my wifes unit and noticed the difference. The draw is definitely a bit different, not bad per se, but I do prefer the original over the replacements I got.

Did I get coils for a different Kanger unit mixed into my kit?
 

crxess

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Unfortunately Kanger has gone to a universal coil head for the Protank/Evod. the design is closer to the original Protank with a looser draw.

If you wish to get something very close to the original, order a few packs of these?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1386200

I have and will be rebuilding as needed to keep the original draw.
 

jow350

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on a side note ,, if you buy a kanger protank those evod stock coils heads will not work in a protank, they are to short ,,, but the protank coils will work in the evods ,,

I've been using EVOD heads in my ProTanks for months now, makes the draw tighter and never had a problem...
 

venemous

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Thanks for the info guys. Was doing some looking on google after I posted and saw a previous post here about it. Since the wifes looks defective maybe I'll use that to learn to rebuild them myself.

I think I really need to get a fasttech order together soon too- a 5 pack of coils at the link crxess posted is only $1.50 more than 1 replacement at my local B&M... wow.
 

jow350

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Keep in mind those are NOT Kanger, they're clones/copies. YMMV, but a lot of folks reported that theirs were no good out of the box, but apparently they are great for rebuilding. Genuine Kanger heads can be had from online vendors for $5 to $6 for a box of 5. By the way, FastTech does sell the genuine Kanger heads, but they're not particularly cheap at $7.49 (and currently sold out anyway).
 

crxess

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Keep in mind those are NOT Kanger, they're clones/copies. YMMV, but a lot of folks reported that theirs were no good out of the box, but apparently they are great for rebuilding. Genuine Kanger heads can be had from online vendors for $5 to $6 for a box of 5. By the way, FastTech does sell the genuine Kanger heads, but they're not particularly cheap at $7.49 (and currently sold out anyway).

Look closely to the left. I do have a clue and do not recommend lightly.
I have both coils and they are almost identical.
Clone is a word to worn out to mean anything anymore. Only the cup (Body) can be a copy and if it fits it is the same.
Wick and Wire are just that.
We already discussed the FACT Kanger is no longer providing that coil head.
People seem to get a bit .... over Branded items.

I wonder how many only buy fruit or vegetable grown on one farm:glare:
 
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jow350

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Look closely to the left. I do have a clue and do not recommend lightly.
I have both coils and they are almost identical.

Crxess, I figured as much, but I guess your mileage varied... I got ten clone EVODs from FastTech, and while I had no issues with the tanks themselves, the coils weren't the best. More than 1 Ohm variance between them, and 3 of them didn't work at all. I've read reviews from other folks with similar experiences, but also good reviews as well, such as yourself, that's why I said YMMV... At the same time I used more than 5 boxes of genuine Kangers, and so far all of them worked and were within 0.2 Ohm of the stated rating. I'm not saying to go one way or the other, just pointing out both sides of the coin so Venemous can make an informed decision...
By the way, I totally agree with you on the branded items, just because it's not name brand doesn't make it bad.
 

crxess

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Fair enough. At minimum the off brand would establish a good base of parts to have the correct pipe/pin for best air flow. At best a few good coil for use cheap and fully rebuild-able for extended savings.

What I do to assure function and a decent vape is an inspection and a good dry burn anyway on coil heads.
I remove the pipe
remove the flavor wick or wicks - some use (1) 2mm some (2) 1mm flavor wick
Check the coil/wick for alignment and spacing
Dry burn several times to orange to clean off any contaminants.

On single 2mm flavor wick heads it is best to place some e-liquid on the wick before replacing the pipe. This gets the wick kick started to avoid dry hitting.

I have also noticed many complaining the coils will not fire and they toss them. many times it is simply because the center pin is up and never makes contact to the battery device.

I have read many similar complaints on the Clone Evod. Same scenario. Vamo owners having fits that the junk evods will not fire. Guess what, neither will the original on a Vamo. Evod does not screw down far enough. New Vamos may be corrected.

It is all and I do mean all in learning how to correct any of this stuff to do the job you expect.
 

pufZeppelin

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Bought an EVOD kit - Coils that came in the tank are different than the replacements in the kit.
The replacements are longer and have a larger inside diameter.
Had to replace the coil in my wifes unit and noticed the difference. The draw is definitely a bit different, not bad per se,
but I do prefer the original over the replacements I got.

Did I get coils for a different Kanger unit mixed into my kit?

Hello,

like has been said Kanger went with (one) style replacement coil to fit all their 'bcc'
so you got the 'new' style with your kit and they do draw a lot more air--FIX
see the 3 air vent holes around the base, plug one with the tip of a toothpick and try it, makes a big difference
try it and if you don't like it, just poke it back out with another toothpick...
:)
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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Fair enough. At minimum the off brand would establish a good base of parts to have the correct pipe/pin for best air flow. At best a few good coil for use cheap and fully rebuild-able for extended savings.

What I do to assure function and a decent vape is an inspection and a good dry burn anyway on coil heads.
I remove the pipe
remove the flavor wick or wicks - some use (1) 2mm some (2) 1mm flavor wick
Check the coil/wick for alignment and spacing
Dry burn several times to orange to clean off any contaminants.

On single 2mm flavor wick heads it is best to place some e-liquid on the wick before replacing the pipe. This gets the wick kick started to avoid dry hitting.

I have also noticed many complaining the coils will not fire and they toss them. many times it is simply because the center pin is up and never makes contact to the battery device.

I have read many similar complaints on the Clone Evod. Same scenario. Vamo owners having fits that the junk evods will not fire. Guess what, neither will the original on a Vamo. Evod does not screw down far enough. New Vamos may be corrected.

It is all and I do mean all in learning how to correct any of this stuff to do the job you expect.

It's been a mixed bag for me. I've had clone evods come with crap coils, I've had clone replacement heads that worked better than Kanger heads, I've had great kanger heads. For the price of these things, if we're going to be that picky, then just rebuild your own out of whatever material you prefer and whatever resistance you like. I like cotton and don't dry burn. I also don't use a coil more than three days under any circumstances. When I rebuild, I usually rebuild 20 or 30 at a time, and never look back. If I run into one I don't like, I replace it about 2 seconds later and never look back. Cheap and high quality don't go together, unless you do it yourself. Now I have cheap, high-quality coils, because I make my own. It's not hard either. My first four didn't work, then I went 10 for 12, now about 24 for 25. I use 32 gauge Kanthal with a 6/7 wrap and consistently get 2.0 to 2.2 Ohms and I wick with cotton. If you don't want the hassle of coiling, buy the Kangers, or spend less and take your chances with clones, many of which work just fine. like I said, mixed bag. Crxess knows what he's talking about and I would listen carefully to his advice. Good luck to you!
 

venemous

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Hello,

like has been said Kanger went with (one) style replacement coil to fit all their 'bcc'
so you got the 'new' style with your kit and they do draw a lot more air--FIX
see the 3 air vent holes around the base, plug one with the tip of a toothpick and try it, makes a big difference
try it and if you don't like it, just poke it back out with another toothpick...
:)

I have on occasion covered an air hole with my fingertip accidentally and noticed a different draw. When I replace the coil in mine I will likely end up plugging one of the holes.
 

crxess

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Bill.... Don;t you just hate that! Built several Monday everything was looking good. then one 5 wrap read out at 3.4ohm:blink:
Should have been near 1.9ohms. Diddled with a pin to make sure it wasn't touching the sides...........Dead!
Flipped it and pulled the pin - wire in place, ground wire also in place. Pulled the coil and it was perfect, but no way to reinstall.(legs already cut) Turned out to be some carbonizing in the tube stopping contact:ohmy:
 

tereastarr

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Jul 24, 2013
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I have read many similar complaints on the Clone Evod. Same scenario. Vamo owners having fits that the junk evods will not fire. Guess what, neither will the original on a Vamo. Evod does not screw down far enough. New Vamos may be corrected.

I have the Vamo V3 (had it about 2 weeks now) and I have no problems with the Evods working. If that changes, I'll let everyone know.

For my coils, I wrap them myself using cotton wicks, usually about 5 wraps, and hit about 1.3 to 1.6 ohms, depending on how tightly I wrap the coils. I have tried 6 to 7 wraps for higher ohms, but I always pop the coils as one side or another touches the darn metal sides of the base. Which is also why I went with the Vamo V3, for the VV and VW (I use the VW so I don't have to do the math and to be able to use the lower ohm coils without burning the juice). Everyone's MMV, but I have been very happy with this setup and I don't have to keep track of which coil is good or bad, and so on and so on. If in question, rebuild for pennies and move on.
 

crxess

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I have the Vamo V3 (had it about 2 weeks now) and I have no problems with the Evods working. If that changes, I'll let everyone know.

For my coils, I wrap them myself using cotton wicks, usually about 5 wraps, and hit about 1.3 to 1.6 ohms, depending on how tightly I wrap the coils. I have tried 6 to 7 wraps for higher ohms, but I always pop the coils as one side or another touches the darn metal sides of the base. Which is also why I went with the Vamo V3, for the VV and VW (I use the VW so I don't have to do the math and to be able to use the lower ohm coils without burning the juice). Everyone's MMV, but I have been very happy with this setup and I don't have to keep track of which coil is good or bad, and so on and so on. If in question, rebuild for pennies and move on.

Yes, looking at the V3, it is vastly improved from the originals. Has a more true Ego/510 head and the removable ring is a nice addition.
Evod only makes about 2 1/2 turns on the previous versions then stops. Regular Clearos have no issue and the Protank rocks on to a Vamo.
 
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