Then there is the 75C with it's 100 watt boost.
Here's another DNA75 firing the same atomizer at 45 watts, but this one is powered by one of those Ebay Hana LiPo's that has been wired in parallel.
The low point of graph is 3.97 volts.
The low point of graph is 3.97 volts.
Lipos, well high discharge lipos have always beaten 18650s and the like for minimum battery sag. That's one of the advantages of lipos. Although larger cylinder shaped cells (21700, 26650, etc) are usually better than say 18650s. Also adding cells vs. using just one will lessen battery sag too. Since each cell shares the higher amperages.
My poor six Sony VTC5s have been sitting in its packaging since May.
Hopefully someday I will find a use for them. 
My poor six Sony VTC5s have been sitting in its packaging since May.
buy an 18650 flashlight? Send them to me? Lots of options
I made a post in the orion thread about pretty much the same problem.....and that got me thinking, maybe these cells are at 4.2 volts and the board is reporting it incorrectly. So I pulled one out of my 250C and measured with my meter and sure enough it was at 4.2 volts.
Here is a link to the post in the Orion thread:
Lost Vape Orion
Here is a link to the post in the Orion thread:
Lost Vape Orion
A solution to the 75 battery use problem is switch to a single coil atomizer. I use HD2s in my "after dinner" 75 mod with a Merlin on it, .25 ohms, and battery life is fine at 25 watts as well as nice flavor and vapor. Maybe it doesn't "chuck clouds" like a dual coil Clapton or exotic wires, but it is quite satisfying for me.
Anybody know of a reasonable 1S3P lipo that will fit the eBay-Hanna Modz?
I have 10 of those dirt cheap DNA75 boards I want to build for give away mods.
I know I could reconfigure the 3S1P that came with the Hanna enclosure, I did one of them that way, but that takes longer than building the mod itself. Plus, there is the liability if I dont do it prefect then give it away to someone less educated about lipo mishaps.
If worse comes to worse I will just buy the raw cells, but I really would prefer finding a ready made pack.
My wife, for example, keeps flooding her DNA250 mods with juice and frying the board. Shew never uses more than 30w so giving her the 75s would be ideal.
I have 10 of those dirt cheap DNA75 boards I want to build for give away mods.
I know I could reconfigure the 3S1P that came with the Hanna enclosure, I did one of them that way, but that takes longer than building the mod itself. Plus, there is the liability if I dont do it prefect then give it away to someone less educated about lipo mishaps.
If worse comes to worse I will just buy the raw cells, but I really would prefer finding a ready made pack.
My wife, for example, keeps flooding her DNA250 mods with juice and frying the board. Shew never uses more than 30w so giving her the 75s would be ideal.
I use the latest firmware on the OG Aegis V1.24. Firmware Download
I also convinced them to put the resistance lock feature back in from the initial firmware as it helps greatly with TC.
Way to go! I wouldn't vape in tc without res lock.
Steamer861 way is definitely one way to do it. But you don't need a 1S3P. The P value doesn't matter in this case. It could be 1 or a thousand. And 18650 cells are 1S1P. You can purchase them with solder leads or even wired. You just have to make sure they can handle 25 amps if they are going to use the full 75 watts. 12A is fine for like 35 watts or less. I am sure there are lots of 1S1P lipos out there that will fit too.
You're probably better off just buying the 3.7v lithium singles and sandwiching them into a parallel config yourself. I never found a 1S3P pack with a suitable mah/CDR/size for the Hana. I'm sure there are some out there but if it ain't in front of my face after 1 Google Fu i just use what's easy.
As for slicing apart an 11.1v lipo for rewiring AND worrying about it's reliability AND hoping you have it well soldered/insulated... I feel ya. However, there's not much difference between either of your options. You still need to solder the cells and insulate them after. With the raw cells you're just removing the "cutting apart" step of a 3S1P (which does speed the process along somewhat.). There's no escaping the back-of-the-mind > "I hope that's enough kapton tape, double sided foam tape and UV curable solder mask."
Which reminds me, Hey @dwcraig1 that Ebay Hana DNA 75 1S3P............ You're not using it as a doorstop, tack hammer, ping pong handle or any other unapproved method...right?
LOL I joke.@dwcraig1 How close is it charging to 2 amps? I took my time with that DNA 75 piggyback charging circuit.
Yes I am well versed with OG Aegis firmware:
v1.00
Stock firmware
v1.21
1. Resistance lock lost
v1.22 Sep 16, 2017
No notes
V1.23a Oct 18th, 2017
1. NEW/OLD Coil question optimized
2. Sleep Mode changed from 2 mins to 10 mins
3. Temperature Control slightly improved
4. Resistance lock added
v1.24 2017-11-07
1. Optimized 10s overtime safety feature.
2. Modify Fahrenheit adjustment unit, from 10 degrees Fahrenheit to 5 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. Added Stealth mode, press and hold the 3 keys simultaneously for 2s to enter or exit the Stealth mode.
4. Version number changed to 1.24
Stock firmware
v1.21
1. Resistance lock lost
v1.22 Sep 16, 2017
No notes
V1.23a Oct 18th, 2017
1. NEW/OLD Coil question optimized
2. Sleep Mode changed from 2 mins to 10 mins
3. Temperature Control slightly improved
4. Resistance lock added
v1.24 2017-11-07
1. Optimized 10s overtime safety feature.
2. Modify Fahrenheit adjustment unit, from 10 degrees Fahrenheit to 5 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. Added Stealth mode, press and hold the 3 keys simultaneously for 2s to enter or exit the Stealth mode.
4. Version number changed to 1.24
I actually like v1.00 the best for TC. For Ni200, I don't remember if the version mattered. Although for SS coils, TC wasn't so good at some TCR values and temperatures with later versions. Although I don't know how T1 is with the majority of them. All five of mine are currently runnning at 1.24.
Gawd... just now I got a burnt taste running that new build on the Triade. I guess I'll rebuild it again and make it tighter with rayon through the coil. As I am running out of ideas here.
For me, it depends on the mod. Some mods forget what the cold resistance was when you swap batteries unless it is locked. Other times if the connections are not the best, then locking helps too. Also going in and out of big temperatures changes in the environment (like going out in the winter), locking may help. Although for the latter, some mods will also monitor room temperature and will adjust automatically to work well without locking.
I have used raw cells before, built a 1S5P 5000mAh DNA75 when the 75 first hit. Right now the ones offered by HobbyKing are too wide at 35mm. I havent seen any 1S1P above 1000mAh unless it was way longer than 70mm. Seems they like to keep the cells about 7mm thick, and I have 21mm to play with, ergo 3 cells.
70mm x 26mm x 21mm is what I have to work with.
Since these are going to noobs, I want to stick with lipos. Looking for quick and easy since these are mostly freebies to help get folks off the stinkies. Even a 20C lipo would work.
Similar threads
- Locked
