Evolv-ing Thread

[awsum140]

Well, I had to take the dash apart around the steering wheel to get to the ignition wiring. I also had to pull the side panel and kick plate on the drivers side to get to the door and interior lights wiring. I also pulled the windshield pillar cover on the drivers side to hide the wiring for the antennas. Total time was about three hours and a fair amount of cursing, but it was worth the effort.

 

[tiburonfirst]

Well, I had to take the dash apart around the steering wheel to get to the ignition wiring. I also had to pull the side panel and kick plate on the drivers side to get to the door and interior lights wiring. I also pulled the windshield pillar cover on the drivers side to hide the wiring for the antennas. Total time was about three hours and a fair amount of cursing, but it was worth the effort.

never mind!

 

[awsum140]

C'mon, Tibs, you've gotta know someone you can charm into installing one

 

[BlueridgeDog]

never mind!

Determination is the best tool in the box.

My bride was helping me saw some long boards. She gave up 20 seconds into it claiming it would never work with her help and I should call a bro. I advised that the only skill the bro would bring would be a determination not to quit. Couch is comfy.

 

[tiburonfirst]

i save my determination for all the necessary maintenance chores around here - no point in adding superfluous improvements

 

[KTMRider]

I installed my Viper 5704 myself. It took about 2 weeks of looking up wiring charts and studying them. The install took about 2 days. I installed a glass break sensor and tilt/shock sensor. I have window modules but that involved wiring to each door so I skipped it. It advertises up to 1 mile range and I've easily gone 3000' in a wide open area.

If I had to do it over, I'd have it installed. I didn't realize how involved and time consuming it would be. The 2nd day was mostly setup and programming.

 

[KTMRider]

 

[awsum140]

I cheated with the programming. While I was reading the instructions, in terrible Chinglish, I hooked the controller up to a 12 volt gell cell and played with the programming at the same time.

I also soldered every wire I attached. I don't trust those IDC connectors when it comes to high current, like ignition loads.

 

[KTMRider]

I didn't solder the wires but I did use this technique. No issues in the 4+ yrs it's been in use. It does take some time but I thought it was worth it (and probably why it took 2 days!).

Hand Wire Splicing Technique | KnowYourParts

And when splicing to a wire run:

And heat shrink or friction tape on everything.

 

[SlickWilly]

I installed my Viper 5704 myself. It took about 2 weeks of looking up wiring charts and studying them. The install took about 2 days. I installed a glass break sensor and tilt/shock sensor. I have window modules but that involved wiring to each door so I skipped it. It advertises up to 1 mile range and I've easily gone 3000' in a wide open area.

If I had to do it over, I'd have it installed. I didn't realize how involved and time consuming it would be. The 2nd day was mostly setup and programming.

Unless someone has some auto mechanical experience, I'd advise against it, well unless your working on an early model. The vehicles today are very sophisticated, the electronics and multiple computer systems has got to make it rough for mechanics today. I wouldn't take a test light anywhere near a new car, probe the wrong wire and you just caused a lot of problems and spent a lot of money. If you probe a air bag wire and are near it, ouch! I knew of a guy who was working under the dash on the driver side, to hold himself up he put his arm through the spokes of the steering wheel, probed an air bag wire and set it off giving him two compound fractures! Only use a digital meter or logic probe on today's cars.

 

[SlickWilly]

I didn't solder the wires but I did use this technique. No issues in the 4+ yrs it's been in use. It does take some time but I thought it was worth it (and probably why it took 2 days!).

Hand Wire Splicing Technique | KnowYourParts

And when splicing to a wire run:

And heat shrink or friction tape on everything.

When I was twisting wrenches I always solder and heat shrink on customers cars. On my own cars my rule of thumb, if it's outside the vehicle always solder and heat shrink, inside the cabin is another story.

 

[awsum140]

I always use a meter, never a test light. The Jeep has air bags but the ignition system is "old school" and actually could be jumped out from under the hood if you know the wiring really well. I had a "crib sheet" that came with the system that gave good descriptions of what harnesses to look at and the right wire colors to use. Even then, I double checked everything with the meter before attaching anything.

I only trust solder for long term automotive use like this. Yeah, it's a PITA getting into a lot of places with an iron and solder, but given the environment, vibration mainly, I never worry about things coming loose and causing problems. I taped everything, double layered Scotch 88, re-wrapped the harnesses and added wire ties to make sure nothing comes unraveled.

I gotta ask how small was the guy with his legs braced through the steering wheel? If I tried to get in that position I'd need EMT's, the jaws of life and a backboard to get me to the hospital, even without the air bag going off! Although a mechanic friend of mine was short, thin and wiry so maybe he could have done that if the wheel was telescoped out all the way.

 

[SlickWilly]

I always use a meter, never a test light. The Jeep has air bags but the ignition system is "old school" and actually could be jumped out from under the hood if you know the wiring really well. I had a "crib sheet" that came with the system that gave good descriptions of what harnesses to look at and the right wire colors to use. Even then, I double checked everything with the meter before attaching anything.

I only trust solder for long term automotive use like this. Yeah, it's a PITA getting into a lot of places with an iron and solder, but given the environment, vibration mainly, I never worry about things coming loose and causing problems. I taped everything, double layered Scotch 88, re-wrapped the harnesses and added wire ties to make sure nothing comes unraveled.

I gotta ask how small was the guy with his legs braced through the steering wheel? If I tried to get in that position I'd need EMT's, the jaws of life and a backboard to get me to the hospital, even without the air bag going off! Although a mechanic friend of mine was short, thin and wiry so maybe he could have done that if the wheel was telescoped out all the way.

It was his arm not his legs, he leaned in through the door, his side on the seat and stuck his head under the dash. He used his arm wrapped against the steering wheel with his hand and wrist stuck through the top spoke to hold himself, his forearm was tight against the air bag when it went off.

 

[awsum140]

OUCH!!!!!!

 

[KTMRider]

Ditto. Ouch!

I'm teaching 2 of my nieces how to drive and I told them NEVER put their hand under the top of the steering wheel to turn the wheel. Shuffle method or hand over hand. And let go of the steering wheel just before impact.

I zip tie wire splices if/when it requires but shrink wrap and/or friction tape always. I use marine grade shrink tube (glue lined) for outside wires.

I have a Meterman DMM and PowerProbe III for electrical work. You still need to know what you're doing but the right tools make it easier.

 

[SlickWilly]

When I worked in dealerships they would send us out for factory training a couple times a year, sometimes the classes were for the basics, sometimes for new model or new technology came out. I was at one electrical class for Nissan, they had heat shrink tape, it looked like plain tape but would shrink and seal tight with heat. I've tried to find it every since but never have been able to track it down, I'd love to find it one day, good stuff.

 

[KTMRider]

When I worked in dealerships they would send us out for factory training a couple times a year, sometimes the classes were for the basics, sometimes for new model or new technology came out. I was at one electrical class for Nissan, they had heat shrink tape, it looked like plain tape but would shrink and seal tight with heat. I've tried to find it every since but never have been able to track it down, I'd love to find it one day, good stuff.

This?
https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-Tape-Shrinkwrap-Operations/dp/B002FV3BGM

I've heard of this stuff but haven't tried it yet:
X-Treme Tape TPE-X36ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1" x 36', Triangular, Black: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[turbocad6]

you can burn regular electrical tape quickly then roll it in your fingertips to melt it together and eliminate unraveling. I used to do that all the time and yeah, I used to solder anything that's not considered a temporary connection. just pass a lighter back and forth quickly for maybe 5 seconds until the tape becomes almost melty, then blow out the flame if it catches fire, then roll it tightly in your finger tips, doesn't make it entirely waterproof but does make the tape a much tighter fit for a better seal and also makes it into an almost one piece plastic sleeve that can't unravel. super88 works well with this as well as most other tapes. this will even work if you happen to have a roll of dead tape that the adhesion has kinda gone away, once it's melted and compressed it's not going anywhere. I do this on most connections and def on any connection that's outside of the cabin

 

[awsum140]

I just checked Amazon and there's tone of heat shrink tape listed over there along with marine grade, double layer heat shrink tubing. I've always used Scotch 88 or 33 with excellent results. I used to do a lot of antenna work and always taped up connectors with it. Exposed to rain, heat, cold, ice and sunlight constantly. The tape always held fast and could be removed with no problems.

 

[SlickWilly]

This?
Heat Shrink Tape for Shrinkwrap Operations - 2in.W, 180ft. Roll - Boat Covers - Amazon.com

I've heard of this stuff but haven't tried it yet:
X-Treme Tape TPE-X36ZLB Silicone Rubber Self Fusing Tape, 1" x 36', Triangular, Black: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I'm not sure if that's it, the stuff they had was just like a good electrical tape but shrunk and sealed when heated. I've found heat shrink tape before but none of it had a sticky adhesive side, like this one
Heat Shrink Tape Black 180 foot: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I have the self fusing tape and that works well although it's thick and bulky but it's good for some applications. I've wrapped the handles of small tools and it really makes them more comfortable and easier to use but it looks ugly.