Evolv-ing Thread

[BillW50]

A few months ago I picked up a couple meat injectors at my local wal-mart, they were $3 each. Came with two of the same needle's but the syringe was plain. I bought them for use in the garage, they work great for sucking out fluids, I ground the point off to make them blunt. I had some IV tubing kicking around, I cut a six inch piece and slipped it over the needle. I used one a few weeks ago when rebuilding the front and rear master cylinders on my son in laws bike, worked great to draw the old fluid out and keep the fluid off his new paint job.

Wow that is a good idea.

He had quite a scare, he was booking down the highway and out of the blue the front wheel locked up, somehow he kept control and no one behind him ran him over. After we got the bike back here I found the front master cylinder had old fluid, corrosion and crud had built up over the tiny fluid return hole inside the cylinder, that keep the pads against the rotor after he released the brake lever. Heat built up until things expanded to the point the just brakes locked up. I asked him, "wasn't it feeling sluggish, like you were loosing power?", he said "yeah it was but I didn't think it meant my brakes would lock up!" He's a lucky boy, could have been bad.

Wow... he was damn lucky! When I was 21 years old I was living in Hawaii and bought a Honda 350 four cylinder ('72 I think). And it just started to downpour and I slowed down to turn in a driveway and braking with the rear and I just barely touched the front brake and it quickly slammed on its side. I was left standing straddled over my fallen bike.

That same year I was stopped at an intersection and the light turned green and I had taken off. There was some fresh yellow paint spilled in the middle of the road (I thought it was dry) and the front stayed upright, but the rear was slowly skidding to the right. Just when I thought this was it and the bike was going to hit the pavement... the paint started to wear off of the rear tire and I got it to pull back up again. Man I was just one millisecond away from leaving the bike just before it laid down. I am so glad I didn't bail like I was planning to.

You know I sold that bike for $300 back in '77. It was still beautiful after replacing the damaged turn signals. 10 years ago I heard on a TV show those bikes are worth $50,000 today since they were so rare. Damn. Maybe I should never get rid of anything and become a hoarder.

 

[Steamer861]

Cool new little SXS some one mite like "Tibs"

My Vapour Store has them for 59.99
Kanger Juppi TC Box Mod Starter Kit

 

[Tpat591]

Cool new little SXS some one mite like "Tibs"

My Vapour Store has them for 59.99
Kanger Juppi TC Box Mod Starter Kit

Partial to the new knight V2 myself, but remains to be seen if it will be considered pre-8/8.

Even if the ChiNA80 chip is Crap, with the large screen display, it should take a DNA60 without major modifications.

 

[SlickWilly]

Oh I don't think that knurling unscrews off of there. I think that is just one piece. The injector just kind of screws in there by the four corners of the injector inside of the knurling. And if it looks kinda crooked, it probably is. Also I thought those injectors were two different styles. They are not. They have slots cut on each side. Hmm... I wonder if my pipe cutter can cut it above the slots? As SS is a bit tough. Hey the outside diameter of those injectors are 3mm.

Yeah, that system to attach the needles is called Luer-Lok and are pretty much standard although they come in different sizes. I had to give myself shots in the stomach to stop blood clots after I lost my leg, wasn't much fun but I got use to it quick. Those were a lot smaller needles and smaller Luer-Lok's then these meat injectors, thank god!
Syringe/Needle Combinations

Those slots work great for injecting meat but not so good for drawing fluid from the tip. That's why I ground the tip off so it would be open then slid tubing on the needle to cover the slots, it added length to the needle and covered the slots. Cutting the needle back past the slots and you'll have a short needle.

 

[Chemical Bromance]

Got my turkey injector yesterday that I plan on using for juices.

That's brilliant!

Sent from the road using Tapatalk.

 

[BillW50]

That's brilliant!

Maybe... looks like a few modifications are needed and then it needs to be tested.

 

[tiburonfirst]

one of these days

 

[Phone Guy]

I need help!

I just bought a VaporShark VaporFlask DNA133... brand new from the vaporshark store (which I didn't know existed locally).

It was working, I vaped on it the way home.

I hooked up home to the latest escribe to update the FW to SP3. It uploaded successfully but the battery meter says 0% and will not stay on unless plugged into USB escribe!?

I've done the soft reboot, tried other firmwares in the firmware folder, but nothing is bringing it back to life. What in the heck happened?!? I have verified the mod section is set to 2-cell, I even tried changing it back to 3-cell, soft reboot, change it back to 2-cell, soft reboot, but no change... if I press the fire button the screen lights up for a second but that's it. If I continue to hold the button down the board goes thru its initialization phase showing the welcome screen and all that but as soon as I release the button it dies...always showing 0%. Obviously the batteries are charged and good to go, it worked fine before the SP3 update and now I can't seem to go back to whatever the firmware was on before, which I didn't check (don't even know how to verify what version is currenly installed on a DNA200 in the first place?)

I have tried changing settings and uploading to device, soft reboot, nothing is making it come back on? WHAT IN THE WORLD HAPPENED?

 

[Squonk_me]

I am not currently using any of my 200's in 133 mode so really can't speak to your situation, but this is what happened to my 200's after updating them.

I just updated all of my 200's to the sp3 firmware and they ALL had to be soft rebooted to get the battery meter back. Some had to be soft rebooted several times before it took effect. Soft reboot, nothing instantly did soft reboots back to back until the meter showed. All of mine had just been recharged prior so I know they all should show 100% on the meter.

 

[Steamer861]

I had a battery meter incident my self I updated my E-Scribe & started to update my mods.
First one did the battery meter thing I installed an older version of E-Scribe, Went back to an older stable firmware & have no battery meter problems now I'm still running an older version & will stay here till the issue is addressed.

 

[Phone Guy]

this is beyond the battery meter...the mod doesnt come on, unless you hold the fire button...without atty it says check atty (holding fire non stop), with an atty it says check battery (holding fire non stop).

Ive tried sp3, sp2 and 02.23.16, same results. soft reboot, hard reboot, restore defaults..no change.

tried escribe 1.2sp3 and escribe 1.0.42 on 2 separate computers...no change.

I have tried manually setting battery to 3 cell, upload to device, reboot and no change... set battery back to 2 cell, upload to device, reboot and same results.

I am so upset right now. its like this thing had some custom firmware that got erased during the sp3 upgrade, and now its dead.

 

[Phone Guy]

Dead vaporflask dna133 by vaporshark. heres a video showing what it does.

 

[Phone Guy]

Well I just tried soft reboot, hard reboot and reset factory defaults at least 10x each - no change in behavior. I'm very curious to know if the Vaporflask 133 has some specialty firmware? or was this one just a dud? I find it hard to accept that a manufacture like vaporshark would isolate their products from updates like that? but I dunno.

I have upgraded several of my DX200, ERM+ and even an efusion dna200 to SP3 without any problems whatsoever, except for having to soft reboot them which in my opinion is not a flaw - the boards wants to re-initialize with the new firmware so that makes sense.

The vaporflask mod is dead. Battery voltages are nuts, C0: 0.0v, C1: 5.19v, C2: 0.19v ... on freshly charged batteries - and everything worked BEFORE the firmware upgrade. I used the same cable to upgrade the efusion dna200 just 1 minute before upgrading the flask, and the efusion was flawless.

Now its back to the store (45 mins away) to get a bunch of BS about wanting a refund, they're going to try and get me to warranty it which I'm not willing to do... but I won't be buying another one if EVOLV FIRMWARE updates are incompatible. That's unacceptable.

 

[BillW50]

I had something similar happen with my HCigar VT133. I was helping JaI Haze on the Evolv DNA Forum. And they were having a problem of dropping counts with the puff counter when you swap batteries. And when you get the puff counter to act up and then do a hard reset (and maybe some things leading up to this which I posted in that thread), the DNA200 will be permanently damaged. And the cells are read incorrectly and the cell that reads near zero, that cell will drain just sitting there all the way down to 0v (in about two days from full with a Samsung 25R).

Puff counter resets automatically? - Evolv DNA Forum

I requested warranty work from Evolv on June 2. Here is the email I sent.
________________________________________________________

Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2016 09:07:24 -0500
From: BillW50
To: "helpdesk@evolvapor.com" <helpdesk@evolvapor.com>
Subject: RMA Request

Greetings! I received my HCigar VT133 on April 15th. And yesterday I was
helping a online customer on your forum with a puff counter problem. And
during the process, I did a hard reboot hoping to correct the puff
counter problem. Then the DNA200 stopped reading the cell voltages
correctly.
________________________________________________________

I never heard a word from them. I guess they don't like me or something.

 

[dwcraig1]

I had something similar happen with my HCigar VT133. I was helping JaI Haze on the Evolv DNA Forum. And they were having a problem of dropping counts with the puff counter when you swap batteries. And when you get the puff counter to act up and then do a hard reset (and maybe some things leading up to this which I posted in that thread), the DNA200 will be permanently damaged. And the cells are read incorrectly and the cell that reads near zero, that cell will drain just sitting there all the way down to 0v (in about two days from full with a Samsung 25R).

Puff counter resets automatically? - Evolv DNA Forum

I requested warranty work from Evolv on June 2. Here is the email I sent.
__________________

Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2016 09:07:24 -0500
From: BillW50
To: "helpdesk@evolvapor.com" <helpdesk@evolvapor.com>
Subject: RMA Request

Greetings! I received my HCigar VT133 on April 15th. And yesterday I was
helping a online customer on your forum with a puff counter problem. And
during the process, I did a hard reboot hoping to correct the puff
counter problem. Then the DNA200 stopped reading the cell voltages
correctly.
________________________________________________________

I never heard a word from them. I guess they don't like me or something.

Was that done through their web site "contact" or by regular email. If by regular email try here: Help Desk - Submit a ticket
I doubt if it's "too late" to get it RMA'd
BTW I did a similar thing to my 2 mo. old VT133, awaiting response from Evolv. I'm going to send only the DNA board, those balance tap connections have me worried.

 

[BillW50]

Was that done through their web site "contact" or by regular email. If by regular email try here: Help Desk - Submit a ticket
I doubt if it's "too late" to get it RMA'd
BTW I did a similar thing to my 2 mo. old VT133, awaiting response from Evolv. I'm going to send only the DNA board, those balance tap connections have me worried.

I sent them an email. I figured they were too busy getting things out before Aug 8th. Or they just don't like me. Taking a VT133 apart is pretty straight forward. But what I would highly recommend is after you remove the four cover screws and then the four screws holding everything (sled, DNA, screen, etc.). The whole works will slide right out. But before you do, slide a piece of paper or something between the screen and the window. As the window frame is kinda sharp and can scratch up the screen.

Unsoldering the balance taps should be really easy with a cheap solder sucker tool. After four or five times using them, they probably need to be cleaned inside (PIA I know). For decades I always used Vaseline on the o-ring to make them really perform.

 

[dwcraig1]

I've had it "out" about half a dozen time already. I have a good sucker.
I guess I should add that when mine went South I was changing batteries with the USB plugged in so to keep the memory of the atty, I was comparing sag on a couple different sets of batteries.
I think they like everyone.

 

[BillW50]

I've had it "out" about half a dozen time already. I have a good sucker.

I guess I should add that when mine went South I was changing batteries with the USB plugged in so to keep the memory of the atty, I was comparing sag on a couple different sets of batteries.

Wow! I didn't think it would ever happen being plugged in. I couldn't get the puff counter to act up while using TC (Evolv calls Temperature Protection). Until I discovered that JaI Haze was using power mode. Now the counter looses counts when swapping batteries (and unplugged). And once that happens, then TC mode starts doing it too.

Once the DNA goes south for good. You can switch the battery type to power supply and then it will fire again. It won't charge by USB (or check cell voltages). I thought this was a pretty good workaround until I discovered one cell was draining just sitting.

I think they like everyone.

I believe Wismec would have a different opinion about that.

 

[dwcraig1]

Wow! I didn't think it would ever happen being plugged in. I couldn't get the puff counter to act up while using TC (Evolv calls Temperature Protection). Until I discovered that JaI Haze was using power mode. Now the counter looses counts when swapping batteries (and unplugged). And once that happens, then TC mode starts doing it too.

Once the DNA goes south for good. You can switch the battery type to power supply and then it will fire again. It won't charge by USB (or check cell voltages). I thought this was a pretty good workaround until I discovered one cell was draining just sitting.


I believe Wismec would have a different opinion about that.

I did the 'power supply" thing but just long enough to see it worked.
Wismec/Joytech.......LOL

 

[tiburonfirst]