Willie could probably answer that one, I have no idea and assumed (we know what that does) they would all read all the codes. It could be a factor of how recent the firmware in the reader might be.
i don't think the regular ones read abs codes. the mechanic tried first with his go-to reader but had to pull out the bigger snap-on contraption to get the code
Ah, the Snap-On Modis! That's a hell of a tool, my buddy has a repair shop, I've used his a few times. It's as close as you can get to the dealer factory scanner, but the Modis can be used on about any make of car. They only cost $6K for the base unit, accesroies extra $$, the yearly software updates alone are over 1K. You've got to get a lot of use out of them to make them pay for themselves. Snap-on Diagnostics: MODIS Ultra Integrated Diagnostic System
"Whether you’re responding to a trouble signal or just starting up a new network, troubleshooting can be a difficult process, particularly for the beginner; however, a systematic approach can make troubleshooting quite easy and even fun!"
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...e-nXnNd45ZDlTgppg&sig2=zGLFS0UMf8biJ_B_SlicHQ
When the troubleshooting guide starts off with a sentence that ends in "fun" and uses that 4 letter "e" word you know it's going to be hair pulling and head banging time.
Depends on the scanner and the vehicle being read, some will read other systems (ABS, SRS, Security, ect.) and some won't. Like most things, usually but not always you get what you pay for. They definitely have gotten less expensive while having more functions over the years.
now that we know how much my mechanic paid for his snap-on gadget i don't think he would have skimped on his smaller reader
and that one definitely couldn't read the abs code
I "wish" we had the "PA" variant. Ours is 20 years old with many nodes on each network. A 1 or 2 millisecond blip on any node knocks out the whole line, but by the time we get there, everything is usually "normal". Troubleshooting something that isnt broke (while you are looking at it), is indeed "fun" and doesnt include the "e" word, usually some other "f" word variants instead."Whether you’re responding to a trouble signal or just starting up a new network, troubleshooting can be a difficult process, particularly for the beginner; however, a systematic approach can make troubleshooting quite easy and even fun!"
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...e-nXnNd45ZDlTgppg&sig2=zGLFS0UMf8biJ_B_SlicHQ
When the troubleshooting guide starts off with a sentence that ends in "fun" and uses that 4 letter "e" word you know it's going to be hair pulling and head banging time.
ETA: And Siemens loved this protocol! Just one of the reasons I dont like Siemens, give me Allen Bradley any day!!!!
Maybe you guys who know computers more in depth then me can give me some advice on memory upgrade for my desktop. I have to move from Vista, my mother board, processor and memory is only three years old and I don't want to replace the MB and CPU now. I ran the Microsoft upgrade adversary software, the MB won't support Win 10 but it will support 7 or 8. I ordered 7 Professional 64 bit, I went with 64 so I can use more then the 4gb 1600mhz memory I have now, I'm a little lost at what to get. I wanted at least 8gb, I found 16 2400mhz at a good price --> www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUPV2RQ
According to gigabyte's spec page for my MB it says it will support 2400mhz but it says (OC) for Over Clock?
Quote "Support for DDR3 2400(OC)/1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules"
Here --> GIGABYTE - Motherboard - Socket FM2 - GA-F2A85XM-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Does that mean I'll have to Over Clock it or can I run it slower without OC?
Do I really need 2400mhz, I don't game or push it hard, just sick of it acting slow, I want FAST! (er)
The other 16gb sets I was looking at is about the same price, here is listed 1866mhz and 2133mhz --> www.amazon.com/dp/B00F902LIK
One brand better then the other?
I'm confused.....
as usual..... 
Advice?
According to gigabyte's spec page for my MB it says it will support 2400mhz but it says (OC) for Over Clock?
Quote "Support for DDR3 2400(OC)/1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules"
Here --> GIGABYTE - Motherboard - Socket FM2 - GA-F2A85XM-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Does that mean I'll have to Over Clock it or can I run it slower without OC?
Do I really need 2400mhz, I don't game or push it hard, just sick of it acting slow, I want FAST! (er)
The other 16gb sets I was looking at is about the same price, here is listed 1866mhz and 2133mhz --> www.amazon.com/dp/B00F902LIK
One brand better then the other?
I'm confused.....
as usual..... Advice?
Yes, it means over-clocked, and "no" you dont need to do it. Honestly, I dont think you will notice much difference at any of the clock speeds quoted, given your usage patterns. For me, I always try max out the amount, as many gb as the MB/OS will support. I find that going heavy on memory makes up for a lot of other shortcomings a MB or OS may have.Maybe you guys who know computers more in depth then me can give me some advice on memory upgrade for my desktop. I have to move from Vista, my mother board, processor and memory is only three years old and I don't want to replace the MB and CPU now. I ran the Microsoft upgrade adversary software, the MB won't support Win 10 but it will support 7 or 8. I ordered 7 Professional 64 bit, I went with 64 so I can use more then the 4gb 1600mhz memory I have now, I'm a little lost at what to get. I wanted at least 8gb, I found 16 2400mhz at a good price --> www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUPV2RQ
According to gigabyte's spec page for my MB it says it will support 2400mhz but it says (OC) for Over Clock?
Quote "Support for DDR3 2400(OC)/1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules"
Here --> GIGABYTE - Motherboard - Socket FM2 - GA-F2A85XM-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Does that mean I'll have to Over Clock it or can I run it slower without OC?
Do I really need 2400mhz, I don't game or push my computer hard, just sick of it acting slow, I want FAST! (er)
The other 16gb sets I was looking at is about the same price, here is listed 1866mhz and 2133mhz --> www.amazon.com/dp/B00F902LIK
One brand better then the other?
I'm confused.....
One other thing I forgot to ask, I read if I install this version of 7 I can't upgrade the MB or CPU later without having to buy a new key, but can you upgrade memory without having to buy a new key?
Yeah, I would think jumping from 4 to 16gb I'll see a good improvement, I can't imagine what it would be like with 64gb! I thought the price was a good deal, just not sure which to go with.
I run a lot of programs at once, that's when things start to open or swap over slow. Looking at the % under task manager I'll see memory maxed out but the CPU not as much, I suspect it's the memory bottle necking???
No, you dont need a new key for a memory upgrade.
If it were me, I would seriously look at one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-2133Mhz-...UTF8&qid=1475260806&sr=1-9&keywords=ddr3+32gb
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Veng...TF8&qid=1475260806&sr=1-11&keywords=ddr3+32gb
Or two of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Ta...&ie=UTF8&qid=1475260780&sr=1-17&keywords=DDR3
The rated speed is the fastest it will go but your memory doesn't have to run at that speed. The faster it's rated, the more it costs usually.
The Crucial Ballistix Mike linked is good. I've used them before. I have Kingston HyperX now. 8gb is normal for most systems and 16gb is more than enough for most people. 64gb is more for photo/video heavy applications. You want to upgrade/install in pairs and make sure you put them in the right slots (usually 1 and 3, 2 and 4 are paired).
You can upgrade anything on your computer and keep the same MS key. When you activate, you might have to call them but you won't have to buy a new key (license).
Oh no, more choices..... LoL. Seriously thank you! We got hit with a lot of expenses the last couple months, playing catch up with the budget. The wife isn't happy with me buying the 7 and the tools I got last week. She doesn't know I'm also buying memory, I'll loose my acorns if I spend another $150 this month so it will have to be one of the two lower, I can always add more later.
Can I ask, why are these better then what I looked at, I get lost in all these specs, what is it that is better with these? To be honest, I would have passed those by just because I don't recognize the brands LoL. Thanks Mike.
Actually, all three of them are "name brand" in the memory arena. Its not that I think they are any better, I was just looking for more cost effective. The cheapest Ballistix one is actually made by "Crucial" which is a leading mainstream memory brand.
Well that's what I thought, like I said before, I upgraded that MB, CPU and memory and had to call MS and explain what I had done, then they gave me the code to activate. But during me research on what system to move up to I keep reading that it was a one time lic and upgrading wouldn't fly, thought MS may have changed things. Not that it really matters, if I can get another couple years out of the MB and CPU then I'll upgrade them and move to 10, or what ever they have at the time. I'm just cheap LoL. Besides, I love to watch and record TV on my desktop, 7 has media center where 8 doesn't. Also with 7 Pro I won't have any problems with drivers for my printers, cards or software I have now, at least that's what that upgrade check tool told me.
Nice, I didn't know that. Yeah, better prices then what I was looking at. Thanks Mike & KTM! I knew you guys here would come through!
Made my day!You can install the OS as long as you have the media or installer. You can skip the key entry at the time of installation and enter a key later. When you activate, it usually gives you a choice to activate online or by calling a 800 number. If you have problems with the online activation, you can call and they're usually very helpful. I have TechNet keys that allow 10 activations but I've been using them for years and just call and get a new key.
Since you're not doing heavy photo/video editing, I would go with the 16gb Crucial kit. Remember to install them in the right slots. I have 16gb on Win10 and I rarely see more than 30% memory usage with 6+ apps open.
Since you're not doing heavy photo/video editing, I would go with the 16gb Crucial kit. Remember to install them in the right slots. I have 16gb on Win10 and I rarely see more than 30% memory usage with 6+ apps open.
KTM is probably right, I went 32gb on my system and I never have a memory bottleneck, but it may well be overkill. Over the years I have just always gone memory heavy to prevent disk swapping.
Yeah, when I upgrade the MB and CPU I click to activate online and it rejected it, I called that number and your right, very helpful. Thanks again guys, I appreciate it.
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