Evolv-ing Thread

Steamer861

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DO you have a hernia truss at the ready, too?

Every one has their own vaping requirements. I need a mod with BIG batteries cause I'm out all day.
You need a "Tough mod" cause your pron to running then over with a tractor.
I dont make fun of your choice! Aegis? LOL
 

awsum140

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Sitting down, facing forward.
The Aegis is about as heavy as I want to go. Seriously, for you it might be an idea to figure out a way to plug in to a cigarette lighter on your equipment, especially given that the 2xx series is 3 or 4S. It would be tethered, but would never run out of battery. I know I'd try that if I was on the road all day, every day. The next problem would be enough liquid, but a spare tank would handle that fairly easily.
 

Rossum

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Plus, you can bludgeon an attacker or drive 20 penny nails with it.
With a mod that's 3D printed out of plastic? I would recommend against it.

For that, you need something like this:

2o2Vftg.jpg
 

Steamer861

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for you it might be an idea to figure out a way to plug in to a cigarette lighter on your equipment,

The solution is never that easy, I bounce around all over the place in a day. I need portability
If I could just teather to a power source, I would have all ready.
The liquid consumption is easy :) I have my +'s 10 mills per fill each.

I have what could be a 4S lipo 250c mod solution here all ready? But I will probably hedge my bets with a dual or triple 21700 DNA250c mod combo as well :)

Yeah, I have a weakness for stuff that's hand-made by a couple of the folks here on ECF. :oops:

No one will Blame you for that! Those mods are like fine art!
 

SlickWilly

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The solution is never that easy, I bounce around all over the place in a day. I need portability
If I could just teather to a power source, I would have all ready.
The liquid consumption is easy :) I have my +'s 10 mills per fill each.

I have what could be a 4S lipo 250c mod solution here all ready? But I will probably hedge my bets with a dual or triple 21700 DNA250c mod combo as well :)



No one will Blame you for that! Those mods are like fine art!

I don't know just what your day is like but aren't you back to your vehicle multiple times though out the day? Have you thought about taking more mods with you, swapping them out when back to the vehicle and put them on a USB cord to recharge while vaping on a fresh mod? Or make room in with your tools for extra mods?

Myself, I'd rather have a bunch of pocket friendly small mods like those we bought from the ebay guy and swap them out during the day then one big one.

Hey, matters not, gotta find what works for you, so long as it keeps you from smoking that's the main thing. I'm cheap, but I'd spend a ton of money if needed for vape gear to keep from facing cancer again. So a $300 mod can be a drop in the bucket, depending on how you look at it.

Remember trucker? He had what, 30-40 mods set up with atty's ready to use in the custom made setup next to his seat in his 18 wheeler, what ever works for you!
 

mikepetro

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Is there an advantage to 4S vs. a 3S pack with the same watt-hours capacity, in terms of duration?
Not if you are running both at the same maximum wattage, ie 300w or below, a 4S would just be able to go up to 400w.
 

kiba

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Wow that is a bit shocking actually. I really don't think I could given up with what you have done. :unsure:
It's not that hard, vaping was a bit harder. It was actually my doctor that originally made the suggestion bc my health was going & I could not get an appetite or stop losing weight. I did had a couple of weird things that he was correct in suspecting the multiple coffees/vapimg every day was exacerbating, plus the sugar etc. (which, being hypoglycemic 99% of the time I'm correctly not allowed to have) but after quit vaping/coffee for 2 months I did get much better.

tbh it was just a matter of cutting out some extra variables that I had, for a long time been reluctant to cut out, to figure out what was going on w/ me. I'm back to vaping & other forms of caffeine but I severely limit my intake, & I do sneak a coffee once a week or so.

150gal tank, with an elaborate filter system to keep the maintenance factor down. Plus a 30gal shrimp tank used as a veggie-filter to absorb nitrates.

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Damn those are big fish, that is one hell of a setup right there, can't be easy to maintain... Do you have them in basement? what is the unit at the bottom that says "plus"? It seems the technology involved has changed a bit. if I am remembering correctly we had ours in the living room with everything else down in utility room which plumbing routed straight up through a hvac-type shaft in floor. We had a couple of disasters bc of that though.

When they sold the house after I graduated, they sold it with the tank as basically an underwater veggie garden.
Looks nice until you see the price, OMG!

I love what they did with the select buttons though.
Doesn't look too, too bad... what would the total cost be on something like that? With like sled 3d print thingy & board holder, everything but the solder basically. I'm kind of considering it except I wish it was a 2x21700, I use single coils exclusively.

So I figured I'd post this here to pick your guys' brains, I'm working on this today, & my gf wants to put the trash can in here
dd8890172b65565ae4bfe1ecbf83503c.jpg

Every other one has a pull out shelf except for this one & I'm guessing he took the trash can with him, anyways this is what I came up w/, already found a trash can from container store that fits, got as close as I could to rollers that'll work & cut some wood blocks... but idk maybe one of you guys has a better idea how to do this.
279456f8d28efb249388c186397a0bba.jpg
 
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Rossum

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Not if you are running both at the same maximum wattage, ie 300w or below, a 4S would just be able to go up to 400w.
Remember when the concept of vaping at 400 watts was considered an absurd joke?

 

SlickWilly

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So I figured I'd post this here to pick your guys' brains, I'm working on this today, & my gf wants to put the trash can in here
dd8890172b65565ae4bfe1ecbf83503c.jpg

Every other one has a pull out shelf except for this one & I'm guessing he took the trash can with him, anyways this is what I came up w/, got as close as I could to rollers that'll work...
83b5bc42a622144021017b7dfda8c1cb.jpg

I like the idea but I'd go a different route. I'd be more tempted to lower those rails to the bottom and make a bottom sliding shelf that just clears the bottom of the inside of the cabinet floor rather then adapt a frame to catch the top sides of the trash can up higher.

Being at the bottom you can make a flat solid shelf the trash bin can sit on, unless your throwing a lot of heavy stuff in a small trash can the shelf wouldn't have to be that thick or heavy duty but if I had the room I'd make it more on the heavy duty side, never know, one day you may want to keep something else on it.

Maybe add front and rear wood pieces to act as lips so the bottom of the trash can sets somewhat snug. Then when you pull or push on the trash can, the bottom of the trash can will be held by those lip pieces, otherwise when empty the can may slide and not the shelf. May have to make the lips for the bottom of the can higher, trial and error will tell you.

And if you don't already have a Kreg jig, RUN and get one! They will make your live so much easier! I have this basic kit and it will do a lot, Shop Kreg Pocket Hole Jig at Lowes.com You will need one of these clamps (or some clamp) for that kit Shop Kreg Clamp 2.75-in Clamp at Lowes.com Saves me a lot of time, makes joints fast and easy and better then I can make without it. Gave one to the son in law for Christmas, he loves it! Ton's of videos showing how they work and how they will make your life easier! Get one!

If you have a Harbor Freight close by you can get these clamps cheap, can't remember which one but one of them has jaws that fit the Kreg jig kit linked above perfectly, that's what I use.
12 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader
18 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

Or get these welding clamps cheap, find a washer close to the size of the one on the Kreg clamp and spot weld it on the HF clamp or have someone weld it for you.
6 in. Swivel Pad Locking Pliers
11 in. Swivel Pad Locking Pliers
 

SlickWilly

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Remember when the concept of vaping at 400 watts was considered an absurd joke?



A couple weeks ago while at the grand kids dance recital at the school they had the fog machines going, it was dance but a spoof of The Adams Family. The fog was thick and rolling off the stage into the crowd, not yelling but semi loud enough so some could hear I said, "Hey, no vaping in school", I heard one guy close by chuckle, he got it. :laugh:
 

kiba

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Willie back when I used to do consulting I'd build P.A.'s for dj's who used those, it's basically a giant vape pen. One guy had me install one in his rack so it'd shoot the stuff out the back, & he'd put stage lights behind.

There's another thing in this never-ending project I wanted to pick your guys' brains for advice on, I'm going to be putting these things under the sink tomorrow, there is a main line one but the filter goes out way too fast which I'm assuming will add $ up over time... Also rn it's being used for hand/clothes/dish washing/turlets/showers which is imo unnecessary so I'm putting this one in that has a valve which replaces soap dispensary & can be shut on/off for when you don't need it. I'm just going to take the filter off the main line one & use this instead.

b89f9d17078e038910af640b200f43b4.jpg


74c9e4d8fb35606c6c4dc68cd5d20b20.jpg


Anybody done this & has pointers? Is it even any good or should I get a different one online? Bc I don't mind spending money on things like this & the nest that pretty much pays for itself. I don't want a huge osmosis one w/ a tank but if there's a better one out there, that has the valve & doesn't make me replace my brand new hose/faucet I'll get it... I'm not so good w/ plumbing, when I replaced the tube in the bathroom I had a bit of an accident that I was lucky enough to be able to get to the cut off quickly.
 
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kiba

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I like the idea but I'd go a different route. I'd be more tempted to lower those rails to the bottom and make a bottom sliding shelf that just clears the bottom of the inside of the cabinet floor rather then adapt a frame to catch the top sides of the trash can up higher.

Being at the bottom you can make a flat solid shelf the trash bin can sit on, unless your throwing a lot of heavy stuff in a small trash can the shelf wouldn't have to be that thick or heavy duty but if I had the room I'd make it more on the heavy duty side, never know, one day you may want to keep something else on it.

Maybe add front and rear wood pieces to act as lips so the bottom of the trash can sets somewhat snug. Then when you pull or push on the trash can, the bottom of the trash can will be held by those lip pieces, otherwise when empty the can may slide and not the shelf. May have to make the lips for the bottom of the can higher, trial and error will tell you.

And if you don't already have a Kreg jig, RUN and get one! They will make your live so much easier! I have this basic kit and it will do a lot, Shop Kreg Pocket Hole Jig at Lowes.com You will need one of these clamps (or some clamp) for that kit Shop Kreg Clamp 2.75-in Clamp at Lowes.com Saves me a lot of time, makes joints fast and easy and better then I can make without it. Gave one to the son in law for Christmas, he loves it! Ton's of videos showing how they work and how they will make your life easier! Get one!

If you have a Harbor Freight close by you can get these clamps cheap, can't remember which one but one of them has jaws that fit the Kreg jig kit linked above perfectly, that's what I use.
12 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader
18 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

Or get these welding clamps cheap, find a washer close to the size of the one on the Kreg clamp and spot weld it on the HF clamp or have someone weld it for you.
6 in. Swivel Pad Locking Pliers
11 in. Swivel Pad Locking Pliers
I did get a premade bottom one from Amazon Prime (rev-a-shelf for 8.5" width opening) but it limited the size of trash can I could put in there, it was hard to find but I basically got lucky & found one at container store in 8 gallon that was the max LxW that would fit. She also wanted me to, like you said try adapting this one, before I start making holes but if it doesn't work out I'm definitely going to go with the bottom mount one. I figured the guy before had one that obviously worked so I might as well give it a go.

I do have a jig that does joints but not like that one.
 

SlickWilly

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Willie back when I used to do consulting I'd build P.A.'s for dj's who used those, it's basically a giant vape pen. One guy had me install one in his rack so it'd shoot the stuff out the back, & he'd put stage lights behind.

There's another thing in this never-ending project I wanted to pick your guys' brains for advice on, I'm going to be putting these things under the sink tomorrow, there is a main line one but the filter goes out way too fast which I'm assuming will add $ up over time... Also rn it's being used for hand/clothes/dish washing/turlets/showers which is imo unnecessary so I'm putting this one in that has a valve which replaces soap dispensary & can be shut on/off for when you don't need it. I'm just going to take the filter off the main line one & use this instead.

b89f9d17078e038910af640b200f43b4.jpg


74c9e4d8fb35606c6c4dc68cd5d20b20.jpg


Anybody done this & has pointers? Is it even any good or should I get a different one online? Bc I don't mind spending money on things like this & the nest that pretty much pays for itself. I don't want a huge osmosis one w/ a tank but if there's a better one out there, that has the valve & doesn't make me replace my brand new hose/faucet I'll get it... I'm not so good w/ plumbing, when I replaced the tube in the bathroom I had a bit of an accident that I was lucky enough to be able to get to the cut off quickly.

Been through this, yes the whole house 99% carbon filters, it had to be replaced way to often and was getting expensive so here's what I did, but first a disclosure, I've been plumbing all my life, I was soldering copper pipe when I was a teenager, learned from Dad when we built our house back then and it doesn't take me long.

I stopped using the carbon filter in the whole house/main line in filter and went with a paper pleated cartridge that catches sand, grit, stuff that comes through the lines to the house. I see no need to filter water down to 99% for dish & clothes washers, shower, toilet and outside garden hoses.

Then I bought another one of those whole house housings with the carbon 99% filters, I wanted the carbon filter to feed just the cold water supply to the sinks in the bathroom and kitchen where we get our cold drinking, cooking water and the feed to the frig ice maker. I re-plumbed and separated those cold water supply pipes that feed those sinks, ran pipes down the side of one of the cellar walls to where the filter would be mounted for easy access when changing the filter. I also put shutoff's on each side so when I replaced the filter no water from either side would be feeding in or draining back from the facet side. That has worked great for me.

I was going to do the same for Mom and Dad but they only wanted one of those smaller two filter under the sink type as in your first pic that has the separate faucet for cold drinking water. They were happy with it but those separate facets don't deliver water fast, it's like a stream from a drinking fountain. It's not bad to fill a drinking glass but to fill a large pot for cooking or even a coffee pot it takes longer they I could tolerate. Maybe they have better separate faucets and filters now with faster flow? This was 12 years ago when I did theirs.

On plumbing, here's a tip two tips, first if you don't already have them put in shutoff's for both the hot and cold under the sinks, that way when working on the plumbing under the sink, if you have a leak the shutoff is right there, no running to the basement or another room to shut the water off!

Second tip, with any screw on connection the biggest mistake I see if people make is over tightening connections, too tight causes leaks! Snug first, tighten more if needed!

When I do any feed or drain screw on connection I have shower towels handy in case of a gushing leak, a bright flashlight and a roll of paper towels. Don't crank down the connection! Sung only, run or turn on the water and look for a leaks, if you see a leak snug just a tad more, wipe everything DRY with paper towels and recheck, slowly tighten until it stops, wipe DRY again with paper towels and recheck. Once done, all leaks are gone and I've cleaned up, last thing I like to wrap a paper around the lowest spot near the new connections, if there are any small leaks the water will run down the pipe to the paper towel and I'll know. I'll recheck every half hour or so for while, then recheck once a day for a week, if no leaks are found no more worrying about it.

About any screw on plumbing connection that has a rubber gasket that I've seen can be ruined if over tighten, once that happens you have to replace the seal, tube or more. These common flexible faucet supply tubes below have small seals and are very easy to ruin by over tightening, some seals can be replaced, some you have to buy a new tube. Here's a couple different types found in these tubes.
FH06OCT_LEAJOI_12.JPG
851090.jpg



Copper compression fittings are the same, over tighten and it will leak, it also ruins the compression rings (Ferrule) and you'll have to cut the copper pipe back because it crushes it.

p_SCP_111_08.jpg
 

SlickWilly

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I did get a premade bottom one from Amazon Prime (rev-a-shelf for 8.5" width opening) but it limited the size of trash can I could put in there, it was hard to find but I basically got lucky & found one at container store in 8 gallon that was the max LxW that would fit. She also wanted me to, like you said try adapting this one, before I start making holes but if it doesn't work out I'm definitely going to go with the bottom mount one. I figured the guy before had one that obviously worked so I might as well give it a go.

I do have a jig that does joints but not like that one.

What kind of jig do you have and how do you like it? I love tools!
 

kiba

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Been through this, yes the whole house 99% carbon filters, it had to be replaced way to often and was getting expensive so here's what I did, but first a disclosure, I've been plumbing all my life, I was soldering copper pipe when I was a teenager, learned from Dad when we built our house back then and it doesn't take me long.

I stopped using the carbon filter in the whole house/main line in filter and went with a paper pleated cartridge that catches sand, grit, stuff that comes through the lines to the house. I see no need to filter water down to 99% for dish & clothes washers, shower, toilet and outside garden hoses.

Then I bought another one of those whole house housings with the carbon 99% filters, I wanted the carbon filter to feed just the cold water supply to the sinks in the bathroom and kitchen where we get our cold drinking, cooking water and the feed to the frig ice maker. I re-plumbed and separated those cold water supply pipes that feed those sinks, ran pipes down the side of one of the cellar walls to where the filter would be mounted for easy access when changing the filter. I also put shutoff's on each side so when I replaced the filter no water from either side would be feeding in or draining back from the facet side. That has worked great for me.

I was going to do the same for Mom and Dad but they only wanted one of those smaller two filter under the sink type as in your first pic that has the separate faucet for cold drinking water. They were happy with it but those separate facets don't deliver water fast, it's like a stream from a drinking fountain. It's not bad to fill a drinking glass but to fill a large pot for cooking or even a coffee pot it takes longer they I could tolerate. Maybe they have better separate faucets and filters now with faster flow? This was 12 years ago when I did theirs.

On plumbing, here's a tip two tips, first if you don't already have them put in shutoff's for both the hot and cold under the sinks, that way when working on the plumbing under the sink, if you have a leak the shutoff is right there, no running to the basement or another room to shut the water off!

Second tip, with any screw on connection the biggest mistake I see if people make is over tightening connections, too tight causes leaks! Snug first, tighten more if needed!

When I do any feed or drain screw on connection I have shower towels handy in case of a gushing leak, a bright flashlight and a roll of paper towels. Don't crank down the connection! Sung only, run or turn on the water and look for a leaks, if you see a leak snug just a tad more, wipe everything DRY with paper towels and recheck, slowly tighten until it stops, wipe DRY again with paper towels and recheck. Once done, all leaks are gone and I've cleaned up, last thing I like to wrap a paper around the lowest spot near the new connections, if there are any small leaks the water will run down the pipe to the paper towel and I'll know. I'll recheck every half hour or so for while, then recheck once a day for a week, if no leaks are found no more worrying about it.

About any screw on plumbing connection that has a rubber gasket that I've seen can be ruined if over tighten, once that happens you have to replace the seal, tube or more. These common flexible faucet supply tubes below have small seals and are very easy to ruin by over tightening, some seals can be replaced, some you have to buy a new tube. Here's a couple different types found in these tubes.
View attachment 731503 View attachment 731501


Copper compression fittings are the same, over tighten and it will leak, it also ruins the compression rings (Ferrule) and you'll have to cut the copper pipe back because it crushes it.

View attachment 731499
Yeah if I could get to the plumbing under the place that'd be ideal, but at the same time the fridge comes with its own filter (also doesn't last long) that gets the water & ice for it, so this is really the only thing I should need to filter, that I can think of rn anyway.

The flow shouldn't be that much of an issue I hope, but that silver thing in the pic is the bypass valve, I'm sure with it on it'll be slower but I don't think we'll be using it for spraying down dishes or anything, it's just for when we want filtered water from the sink. I can also get a single, non dual-stage one that supposedly has better flow. I was thinking about that too bc the single filters cost $35 vs $50 for the 2 pack for dual-stage ones & idk how long these things last, there's a little LED under the bypass valve that's connected to a small battery pack, that's supposed to tell you when it's time to change it.

Did you get a weird taste in yours? Our whole house one still had somewhat of a taste to it even with a brand new filter. Compared to the water that comes out of the fridge's built-in filter I mean
What kind of jig do you have and how do you like it? I love tools!
idk even lol, it's from a late night Amazon Prime shopping spree. It does work though, I used it to fix a cabinet a couple of weeks ago.
 
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SlickWilly

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Yeah if I could get to the plumbing under the place that'd be ideal, but at the same time the fridge comes with its own filter (also doesn't last long) that gets the water & ice for it, so this is really the only thing I should need to filter, that I can think of rn anyway.

The flow shouldn't be that much of an issue I hope, but that silver thing in the pic is the bypass valve, I'm sure with it on it'll be slower but I don't think we'll be using it for spraying down dishes or anything, it's just for when we want filtered water from the sink. I can also get a single, non dual-stage one that supposedly has better flow. I was thinking about that too bc the single filters cost $35 vs $50 for the 2 pack for dual-stage ones & idk how long these things last, there's a little LED under the bypass valve that's connected to a small battery pack, that's supposed to tell you when it's time to change it.

Did you get a weird taste in yours? Our whole house one still had somewhat of a taste to it even with a new filter. Compared to the water that comes out of the fridge's built-in filter I meanidk even lol, it's from a late night Amazon Prime shopping spree. It does work though, I used it to fix a cabinet a couple of weeks ago.

I'll be honest, I don't see any difference in taste with or without the filter, we are on village water, small village. They don't need to supply as many people like a city does but they have to meet the same level of treatment. Here the state checks the water systems a few times a year to make sure they are up to snuff and we get an annual report in the mail, just got one last week. The reason I put them in was during a state check they found a small amount of those tiny cyst bugs, don't remember the name of them now but they put out a filter or boil your water warning for two weeks until a new system was installed to filter them out. The wife was having major surgery the next week and the doctor had told us during the pre-op visit to be very careful about being exposed to any sickness during recovery time once sent home, he said any illness would be difficult to fight during the recovery. So I went right out and got the 99% whole house filter to make sure she would have clean drinking water, I also worried about her being in the shower with her large incisions and being exposed to the cyst that way. If not for that, I probably wouldn't even have them.
 

kiba

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I'll be honest, I don't see any difference in taste with or without the filter, we are on village water, small village. They don't need to supply as many people like a city does but they have to meet the same level of treatment. Here the state checks the water systems a few times a year to make sure they are up to snuff and we get an annual report in the mail, just got one last week. The reason I put them in was during a state check they found a small amount of those tiny cyst bugs, don't remember the name of them now but they put out a filter or boil your water warning for two weeks until a new system was installed to filter them out. The wife was having major surgery the next week and the doctor had told us during the pre-op visit to be very careful about being exposed to any sickness during recovery time once sent home, he said any illness would be difficult to fight during the recovery. So I went right out and got the 99% whole house filter to make sure she would have clean drinking water, I also worried about her being in the shower with her large incisions and being exposed to the cyst that way. If not for that, I probably wouldn't even have them.
Yeah here where I live they reccommend it, all the waters are heavily treated with chemicals and have lead, pretty much all fridges are sold with it & even at lowes/home depot a lot of faucets are starting to have built in small on/off Brita filter ones. The one on the main line, I think all of the condo's come with that, but with so much water going through it I understand why it goes so quickly. If we're not going to use that one, my gf just wants a sink one for washing foods & veggies & whatnot (she's vegetarian) but for spraying crap off plates & silverware & whatnot we'll be able to turn the bypass for full flow.

This took longer than I thought, had to make some more jigsaws cuts but this is how the frame ended up, still not completely sure how I want to do this, I was thinking of just nut & bolting it.
bb6ea0b29c36bb2f067bf4994d5b28c9.jpg
 
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