Evolv-ing Thread

SlickWilly

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Yeah it is supposed to hit here too. But radar shows it went more south and will miss us. In less than a month from now we usually start planting. But the way things are going, I never heard of planting while there is still snow on the ground. :confused:

Yeah I've been waiting for the night temps to come up enough so I can get some fertilizer and grass seed down on the area's I landscaped last fall, at this rate I won't have grass until July...
 

tiburonfirst

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kiba

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I tried to go the cheap route and just replace the washer, the drier lasted another 7-8 months and it died too and like Mike said, the new ones are much more efficient so I say it was the right move. As far as venting I've only used the plain old round tube but mine is in the basement where I have plenty of room and looks don't matter. I did look at the thinner "close to the wall" type vents and right away I didn't like them, the bends, corners, nooks and crannies are lint traps, lint will collect in all those spots and you'll have to keep a close eye on it to make sure restriction isn't building up, enough could case a fire, look up the percentage of house fires caused by driers, it's high. A quick google just now found this NFPA - Dryers and washing machine fires
"Clothes dryers accounted for 92% of the fires; washing machines 4%, and washer and dryer combinations accounted for 5%."

Even in the old round type, every elbow/bend is a restriction, a spot where air flow will slow and lint will collect. I'd give up looks to go with the shortest and straightest route out with the minimum of elbows and bends, I like to sleep well at night. If you can put a hole through the wall straight out behind the drier that's what I would recommend, that's what we did at my daughters house, it's less the eight inches straight to the outside vent, and it never clogs, never.
I'm thinking of doing this



Rn there's that silver accordion looking thing & it's all flammable looking & pinched in several places, since we're in a condo on the ground floor it goes straight up, I could probably just replace the whole thing with a pipe
 

awsum140

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I'm not going to complain too much then, Willie. It's supposed to rain, again, a little today but at least we're well above freezing during the day. Still getting a tad on the cold side at night though with regular freeze warnings. Being "out in the country" and away from anything that retains heat it gets colder at night here.

That silver accordion style duct isn't very flammable, Kiba. Anything will burn if it gets hot enough, but that stuff is rated as "fire resistant" and is actually meant for dryer use. Doing pipe, directly from the dryer, can be really tough unless you can get to the back of the dryer after it's in position to attach it or attach it then move the dryer into position. Doing an "up" turn is a little "dicey". While the pipe is smother and less likely to collect lint, lint will collect at the bottom, gravity, which can get problematic.

Another advantage of going straight out is that you can pop the vent cap from the outside, reach in with a tool, and clean out the lint pretty easily. Even pipe gets coated with lint from it being damp and sticky at the start of each load. Ours goes straight out the wall and every spring I pop the vent cap and clean out a handful or so of lint. The run is only about a foot, 6" exterior walls, so I can just reach right in and get to the dryer itself.

Oh yeah, if you use the flex tubing cut it as short as possible to reduce the amount of compressed accordion when the dryer is in place. In this case, less is better.
 

awsum140

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Some days just don't work the way they're supposed to. I turned the TV on and sat down on the couch to relax before dinner. I went to adjust the volume and the remote didn't work. So I put in fresh batteries even though I had changed them late last week. Still nothing, couldn't control anything TV or STB. We have another box in the bedroom so I got that and it worked fine. A little observation of the defective one showed no lights coming on with any button pushes. So I went online with Comtrash "support".

After a "wait while I pull up your account information" then giving him the exact same information he already, supposedly, brought up we got down to what was wrong. I explained that the remote was completely dead, no lights and couldn't control either STB. He wanted the serial number of the STB which is tucked into a console under the TV. Why did he need that when the problem was the remote and he already had all my account information? After I told him he had that information since he already had all my account information on his screen, he wanted the remote model and serial number. In the interest of getting a resolution I gave him that stuff.

For the next step he rebooted my STB remotely. I asked him why he did that when the remote was the obvious problem since it would not light up and could not control either of our STBs while another remote worked fine. He said it might be a signal issue on the cable. Huh? Once it rebooted the working remote couldn't control it either. Seems the reboot screwed something up. So he had me do a hard, power removed, reboot. That had no effect either.

So now I've got to go to the"Xfinity Store" with this stuff and get replacements. They'll probably go through the exact same steps all over again before replacing the stuff and try getting me to upgrade our, already grossly overpriced, service. Forty five minutes of chat and now a couple of hours to get the thing replaced. Total time just short of an hour to break what wasn't broke.

Did I mention I hate cable companies?
 

SlickWilly

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I'm thinking of doing this



Rn there's that silver accordion looking thing & it's all flammable looking & pinched in several places, since we're in a condo on the ground floor it goes straight up, I could probably just replace the whole thing with a pipe


I use that type of expandable pipe but mine doesn't have any magnets, it requires clamps. With mine you can trim it to length which is good, trim it so it will be stretched out which removes the wrinkles and it will more smooth like a solid pipe, wrinkles will create air flow restrictions and collect lint a lot faster. I like it because it's easy to route with gentle bends and it's easy to remove, I take outside and rinse it out with a garden hose.
 

MadOzodi

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You can run SS430 Claptons instead :) They work good in TC & can be dry burned to De-junk :)
TBH I find Ti has a little better flavour note, but SS430 is way easier to maintain :)

I'm running SS316 Claptons meow - 27/34ga - but may go to 26/32ga. I tried 36ga for wrap, but to get it right, I had to wind it too tight.
 
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kiba

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I'm not going to complain too much then, Willie. It's supposed to rain, again, a little today but at least we're well above freezing during the day. Still getting a tad on the cold side at night though with regular freeze warnings. Being "out in the country" and away from anything that retains heat it gets colder at night here.

That silver accordion style duct isn't very flammable, Kiba. Anything will burn if it gets hot enough, but that stuff is rated as "fire resistant" and is actually meant for dryer use. Doing pipe, directly from the dryer, can be really tough unless you can get to the back of the dryer after it's in position to attach it or attach it then move the dryer into position. Doing an "up" turn is a little "dicey". While the pipe is smother and less likely to collect lint, lint will collect at the bottom, gravity, which can get problematic.

Another advantage of going straight out is that you can pop the vent cap from the outside, reach in with a tool, and clean out the lint pretty easily. Even pipe gets coated with lint from it being damp and sticky at the start of each load. Ours goes straight out the wall and every spring I pop the vent cap and clean out a handful or so of lint. The run is only about a foot, 6" exterior walls, so I can just reach right in and get to the dryer itself.

Oh yeah, if you use the flex tubing cut it as short as possible to reduce the amount of compressed accordion when the dryer is in place. In this case, less is better.
I actually was curious so tore some of it off and lit it on fire with a lighter, it burns pretty good whatever it is.
Some days just don't work the way they're supposed to. I turned the TV on and sat down on the couch to relax before dinner. I went to adjust the volume and the remote didn't work. So I put in fresh batteries even though I had changed them late last week. Still nothing, couldn't control anything TV or STB. We have another box in the bedroom so I got that and it worked fine. A little observation of the defective one showed no lights coming on with any button pushes. So I went online with Comtrash "support".

After a "wait while I pull up your account information" then giving him the exact same information he already, supposedly, brought up we got down to what was wrong. I explained that the remote was completely dead, no lights and couldn't control either STB. He wanted the serial number of the STB which is tucked into a console under the TV. Why did he need that when the problem was the remote and he already had all my account information? After I told him he had that information since he already had all my account information on his screen, he wanted the remote model and serial number. In the interest of getting a resolution I gave him that stuff.

For the next step he rebooted my STB remotely. I asked him why he did that when the remote was the obvious problem since it would not light up and could not control either of our STBs while another remote worked fine. He said it might be a signal issue on the cable. Huh? Once it rebooted the working remote couldn't control it either. Seems the reboot screwed something up. So he had me do a hard, power removed, reboot. That had no effect either.

So now I've got to go to the"Xfinity Store" with this stuff and get replacements. They'll probably go through the exact same steps all over again before replacing the stuff and try getting me to upgrade our, already grossly overpriced, service. Forty five minutes of chat and now a couple of hours to get the thing replaced. Total time just short of an hour to break what wasn't broke.

Did I mention I hate cable companies?
Man that is a hassle, it's xfinity? if it was me I'd take this opportunity bring in all the boxes & leave them there.
which made me do some aerobics to look at my connection :facepalm: but definitely worth checking into ;)
The dryer connector? Yeah it seems cool bc you can just slide it out & back in without having to climb on top/reach behind & disconnect it. I ordered one the magnetic connector is like 40 bucks on amazon. I'll let you know how it goes.
I use that type of expandable pipe but mine doesn't have any magnets, it requires clamps. With mine you can trim it to length which is good, trim it so it will be stretched out which removes the wrinkles and it will more smooth like a solid pipe, wrinkles will create air flow restrictions and collect lint a lot faster. I like it because it's easy to route with gentle bends and it's easy to remove, I take outside and rinse it out with a garden hose.
What about if I used just a shorter aluminum hose peice above the magnet part & replaced the whole top part with pipe peices?
edfce2ce99682076fae3306c2b4a2c9b.jpg
 
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SlickWilly

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I actually was curious so tore some of it off and lit it on fire with a lighter, it burns pretty good whatever it is. Man that is a hassle, it's xfinity? if it was me I'd take this opportunity bring in all the boxes & leave them there. The dryer connector? Yeah it seems cool bc you can just slide it out & back in without having to climb on top/reach behind & disconnect it. I ordered one the magnetic connector is like 40 bucks on amazon. I'll let you know how it goes. What about if I used just a shorter aluminum hose peice above the magnet part & replaced the whole top part with pipe peices?
edfce2ce99682076fae3306c2b4a2c9b.jpg

My only concern would be those ridges, those will collect lint. It will be OK if you keep an eye on it and get an idea how long to go between clean out's of that pipe, keep the lint from build up too much and you'll be fine. Some use dryer lint for a fire starter while back packing and camping, a small wad of it is all you need, strike a spark to it and it burns easy. I read that tip in a Field & Stream many years ago, that's why I'm .... about keeping the vent system cleaned.
 

kiba

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My only concern would be those ridges, those will collect lint. It will be OK if you keep an eye on it and get an idea how long to go between clean out's of that pipe, keep the lint from build up too much and you'll be fine. Some use dryer lint for a fire starter while back packing and camping, a small wad of it is all you need, strike a spark to it and it burns easy. I read that tip in a Field & Stream many years ago, that's why I'm .... about keeping the vent system cleaned.
Should I just do all metal pipes then?
 

kiba

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So I ordered a card reader on Ebay, from up in San Francisco area, it made it down as far as LA and went back to San Francisco.
Just checked, it's out for delivery......in San Francisco.
I'm south of San Diego
What kind of card reader? Like credit cards?

Btw anybody do the credit card rewards? Mine are all cash back & I do try to maximize them by paying for everything w/ credit card when possible & then paying it off immediately, but I have a freind whose really into it & has gotten like free miles, cash back, etc. like entire vacations from it.

Like he has this whole complex thing how he does it but one of the things is he'll buy those visa gift cards every month with his credit card for his spending money. It's apparently big in the hobby scene, there's forums devoted to it etc.... like vaping.
 
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Steamer861

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I'm running SS316 Claptons meow - 27/34ga - but may go to 26/32ga. I tried 36ga for wrap, but to get it right, I had to wind it too tight.

How is the 316 working for you? Are you using it on a DNA, in TC?
The consensus here, at least is 316SS is a bit troublesome in TC on a DNA.
Seems SS430 is a little more TC friendly, on DNA devices :)
What about the flavour note? How does 316 compare to Ti?

I haven't tried 316 in TC in a long time, I suffered from anemic hits & falling out of TC regularly, till I gave up on 316 in TC :(
 

kiba

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If anyone is interested, here is some advice from him I found helpful

Pay before the statement closes will maximize your FICO score not allowing a balance to report to the credit bureaus. Pay off balances down to zero except for on one card you should allow a $2 balance to report.

The card you choose to allow the $2 balance to report should not be a charge card with no preset spending limit (i.e. Amex Gold and even some credit cards have a no preset spending limit be on the credit line), but instead a true credit card, a revolving account, with a definite credit limit.

Running all of your spending each month, whether it be a cup of coffee or anything else, on a credit card that earns rewards, will earn points.

Using cards that offer the maximum amount of reward in each category will maximize your points.

Utilizing certain cards on manufactured spending, can only increase your rewards.

But at the very least, use a reward credit card for all your regular spending.


There are a few other tactics I should mention in the CC game.

The first is credit limit increases or CLIs. Some companies are more liberal in giving CLIs than others and some will give you a CLI without doing a "hard pull" on your credit report (CR). Discover and Capital One are two that are really good and don't do a hard pull, but instead a soft pull..using their own internal methods to increase your credit limit. Here I am talking about a cardholder requested CLI, not an auto CLI that all CC companies give at times at certain intervals if you meet their criteria.

CLIs are important with your existing cards because when you apply for a new card, they will look to see what your existing limits are when they grant you your initial limit.

RECONSIDERATION or RECON: When you apply for a card and are initially denied. This is done by a computer. But if you call talk to a person and say the right things, often times you can turn a denial into an approval.

Knowing which cards pull what CRAs is important. If you have a high FICO on one CRA and not so high on another, you can sometimes force the CC company to pull your best score.

Or, if you have had too may inquiries on one CRA, you may want to spread them out between the three CRAs.

I mentioned it above in the OP, but retention bonuses are a regular activity of mine. Every few months I call up and say I am thinking about cancelling the card. I usually get them to offer me X amount of bonus points to keep the card a bit longer.

It really does work though, I was just able to pay for about half my dryer in Amex points, then the washer I used what I had in cash back rewards from my citi, basically ended up gettimg the washer or dryer, one or the other for nothing. (you sometimes have to split up purchases to make it work for you) This was after I've already used up much of it on home improvements & other stuff, normally I'd wait for both a sale & stockpile points/cash backs but this was an emergency.

& if you like to take trips that's where you can really get into it, gf is saving up miles for our first free trip (Japan) & with my Amex I get once a year free week in Hilton.
 
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kiba

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How is the 316 working for you? Are you using it on a DNA, in TC?
The consensus here, at least is 316SS is a bit troublesome in TC on a DNA.
Seems SS430 is a little more TC friendly, on DNA devices :)
What about the flavour note? How does 316 compare to Ti?

I haven't tried 316 in TC in a long time, I suffered from anemic hits & falling out of TC regularly, till I gave up on 316 in TC :(
316 is horrible for TC, I have some 316L claptons I got for cheap, they're youde, pretty clean but I had to give up on them bc (I think) they just don't have a high enough tcr to perform well. Like you said it was always weak/anemic unless I locked the res.
 

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