Evolv-ing Thread

[awsum140]

Not sure about posting a pic, but they had positive end at the bottom connected with a wire to the +ve terminal and the -ve at the top connected to the ground next to the output. The cradle was not fixed in and they ground some of the plastic to fit the curve at the bottom end of the case. BUT those cradles are not great and Evolv chose them as almost a worst case scenario for testing.

A little late to find that out I've already modified a sled to fit and from the looks of it, an XT30 connector will fit between the back of the sled and the board. That would make for easier assembly and maintenance, if required. My big problem is holding the sled into the case and still be able to remove it somehow without chopping things up.

 

[BillW50]

I got my Protovapor Silo billet box (ERM) today. Oh boy is this case ever small. I don't even have a battery for it and that FullyMax has to be very tiny. No wonder it is only 900mah. Is there even any room to get a XT30 connector in there? If those four long screws are supposed to be 1.5mm hex, I'm in trouble. As one seems to be 1.5mm and the other three are larger, but smaller than 2mm.

 

[awsum140]

That's odd with the hex screws, Bill. I just grabbed one of the blue handle ones that come with some RTAs and it worked fine. Personally, I'd prefer philips head screws but I'm working on magnets for the DNA75.

There is room for an XT30, but the leads to the board have to be very short and the leads on the battery need to be trimmed as well to get it in there. I've never done an ERM, stock, enclosure so this is a little speculative.

 

[VapingBad]

A little late to find that out I've already modified a sled to fit and from the looks of it, an XT30 connector will fit between the back of the sled and the board. That would make for easier assembly and maintenance, if required. My big problem is holding the sled into the case and still be able to remove it somehow without chopping things up.

I wedged mine in with pencil eraser and stuck 3 30x10x2 mm N35 magnets stacked together as the gap is 7-8 mm inside the lid with double sided tape. That is just my quick and dirty hack, but you could hold the sled with Sugru and mod the screw holes to take magnets for a more professional job.

You can bend the contacts to make better contact or make your own to go in the sled, but they do work out of the box you will just get more weak battery warnings.

 

[awsum140]

Thanks, VB. Maybe I'll do the wedge idea in the completed mod. Time will tell. The sled does fit pretty snugly to begin with so it won't take much to hold it pretty solidly. We are talking about the Keystone 1044 sled, right?

I'm using a Proto Vape ERM case and have already drilled out the screw holes and JB'd the magnets in place.

 

[VapingBad]

Thanks, VB. Maybe I'll do the wedge idea in the completed mod. Time will tell. The sled does fit pretty snugly to begin with so it won't take much to hold it pretty solidly. We are talking about the Keystone 1044 sled, right?

I'm using a Proto Vape ERM case and have already drilled out the screw holes and JB'd the magnets in place.

IDK the model number, but the standard Keystone SMT one.

 

[Steamer861]

The allen key from an OG mizer fits the screws in the ERM from Proto On mine anyway
On Digi Key there are 2 kinds of contacts on the Keystone sled one looks like brass? & 1 like SS The brass looking 1 cost 50 cents more. Witch one is in the ERM 75 from Evolv?
Also wounded why the + is on the bottom? does a shorter wire make a difference on the + end?

 

[VapingBad]

The allen key from an OG mizer fits the screws in the ERM from Proto On mine anyway
On Digi Key there are 2 kinds of contacts on the Keystone sled one looks like brass? & 1 like SS The brass looking 1 cost 50 cents more. Witch one is in the ERM 75 from Evolv?
Also wounded why the + is on the bottom? does a shorter wire make a difference on the + end?

They look gold plated.
Because the +ve wire is connected to the bottom of the board and the -ve to the top, GND next to output.

 

[Steamer861]

They look gold plated.
Because the +ve wire is connected to the bottom of the board and the -ve to the top, GND next to output.

So am I understanding this correct? they use the + on the bottom the board & the - from the atty out connected to the sled? 2 short wires instead of 1 longer & 1 shorter?

 

[VapingBad]

So am I understanding this correct? they use the + on the bottom the board & the - from the atty out connected to the sled? 2 short wires instead of 1 longer & 1 shorter?

yes

 

[mackman]

I got my Protovapor Silo billet box (ERM) today. Oh boy is this case ever small. I don't even have a battery for it and that FullyMax has to be very tiny. No wonder it is only 900mah. Is there even any room to get a XT30 connector in there? If those four long screws are supposed to be 1.5mm hex, I'm in trouble. As one seems to be 1.5mm and the other three are larger, but smaller than 2mm.

The 4 screws are 1.3mm. With both the Fullymax and the Turnigy I was unable to fit a XT30; soldered the battery leads directly to the board. The board screws are T5 Torx.

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[laurie9300]

So, any of you beta testers run into the 6v limit on the 75 using 1ohm + coils?

 

[awsum140]

The 1044 sled has, what appears to be, nickel plated solder tabs and it's not SMD. The clearance at the 510 end is kind of tight but some Kapton tape will fix that, I think. The idea of keeping leads a short as possible sounds good...but...that means that stress is put on the solder joints on the board when the battery gets changed which makes me nervous. It looks like there's plenty of room for 14 gauge wire in there, between the sled and board, and that should make up the difference of an inch or two of wire to eliminate that potential mechanical stress point on the board when changing batteries. Of course if you just recharge rather than change, it's a non-issue.

 

[VapingBad]

So, any of you beta testers run into the 6v limit on the 75 using 1ohm + coils?

No I make all my coils, nothing over 0.55 ohm and that was just for testing a single coil setup on a SubTank. It may be an issue for some, but I would think these folks are mainly at the lower end of the power spectrum. I have used a 0.03 ohm Ni build on the 75, a bit too low really, but it worked.

 

[VapingBad]

The 1044 sled has, what appears to be, nickel plated solder tabs and it's not SMD. The clearance at the 510 end is kind of tight but some Kapton tape will fix that, I think. The idea of keeping leads a short as possible sounds good...but...that means that stress is put on the solder joints on the board when the battery gets changed which makes me nervous. It looks like there's plenty of room for 14 gauge wire in there, between the sled and board, and that should make up the difference of an inch or two of wire to eliminate that potential mechanical stress point on the board when changing batteries. Of course if you just recharge rather than change, it's a non-issue.

I haven't measured the wires, but I guess thy are about 1.5 - 1.75 inches long, just enough that you can lift the cradle clear to get to the board screws.

I did replace the contacts in the sled that came with the FT Chana enclosure for a DNA 30, but that was for rbp. You may get better performance having a solid contact on one end. Maybe solder a Cu disc on some circuit board or make from Cu or brass.

 

[Tpat591]

The 1044 sled has, what appears to be, nickel plated solder tabs and it's not SMD. The clearance at the 510 end is kind of tight but some Kapton tape will fix that, I think. The idea of keeping leads a short as possible sounds good...but...that means that stress is put on the solder joints on the board when the battery gets changed which makes me nervous. It looks like there's plenty of room for 14 gauge wire in there, between the sled and board, and that should make up the difference of an inch or two of wire to eliminate that potential mechanical stress point on the board when changing batteries. Of course if you just recharge rather than change, it's a non-issue.

The sled should ride the lip in the front of the case. I would think a few small dabs of hot glue should hold it in just fine. If you ever need to go in for maintenance, a little IPA will release the hot glue. Or is that a bad idea?

I have since added clip wedges to the Printed erm front stls so the divider could be clipped in with the battery tray attached (also lowered display window & removed plastic from 510 so grounding ring and terminal could be installed but I never test printed it).

 

[VapingBad]

The sled should ride the lip in the front of the case. I would think a few small dabs of hot glue should hold it in just fine. If you ever need to go in for maintenance, a little IPA will release the hot glue.

Or is that a bad idea? I have since added clip wedges to the Printed erm front stls so the divider could be clipped in with the battery tray attached (also lowered display window & removed plastic from 510 so grounding ring and terminal could be installed but I never test printed it).

Yes they do sit on the ridge, I would use Sugru rather than hot glue, Oogoo may do it but I have never found that it sticks as well as the original.

 

[awsum140]

This is the 1044 sled I have and it does sit, nicely, down on the lip inside the front half of the ERM case. The solder tab, which is sticking out in this photo, can be bent back below the body of the sled for clearance at the 510 end. I think if it gets wedged in tightly enough, it will be fine but will need a small piece of ribbon to allow removing the battery easily.

 

[VapingBad]

This is the 1044 sled I have and it does sit, nicely, down on the lip inside the front half of the ERM case. The solder tab, which is sticking out in this photo, can be bent back below the body of the sled for clearance at the 510 end. I think if it gets wedged in tightly enough, it will be fine but will need a small piece of ribbon to allow removing the battery easily.

They rounded the corners at the +ve so it fits further away from the 510, put some insulation on the back & top of the +ve tab as it is too easy to short it replacing the back of the case.