Evolv-ing Thread

kiba

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do you have runs in those spots?
i think you are worrying for nothing! ;) you are doing the first coat which is never perfect and that's why usually 2 coats are needed! :p
I don't think so... What do you mean by run? Btw it did look much better once it was dried, it looked for some reason like complete crap when it was wet but I had to leave before I saw it dry. I need to touch up like 2-3 spots I think where I let the roller get too dry


Kiba, I usually keep the roller really wet coming out of the pan. Not dripping, but obviously heavily loaded with paint and feeling a little heavy. The last thing I do is roll the end to get the mess off of there. I make the first rolls in either a "V" or "W" shape depending on whether I want to do a taller or wider area. Then roll the whole area, both in up/down and left/right strokes. That insures the paint gets spread evenly. Sometimes it takes two coats, but I can usually get away with a single coat. Paints, today, have improved quite a bit, but I still don't have any faith in the ones that contain primer, which you probably don't need anyway.

Good advice... yeah I was hoping it'd be just one coat, I still have a bunch of touch ups to do so this is good practice.

One of the paints is Sherwin Williams (the trim) & the other two is Benjamin Moore, like the bathroom walls & the regular walls... I think they all contain primer.
 
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SlickWilly

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No need to sand kiba, just touch up or recoat, now that the first coat has dried, the sooner you can recoat the better.

Yes paint has changed a lot, some of it I used recently is more jelly like, I thought it might be bad but was told that's the way it is, ended up it worked well. The paint we put on the house last year is flexible, on display at lowes they had a foam football that half had been dipped in this paint, you can squeeze the foam all day and the paint just flexes without peeling, I was impressed.
 

ShamrockPat

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    What do you mean by run?
    Extra paint in an area, and as it rolls down the wall, it sorta creates a noticeable ¼ inch high bump.
    The last thing I do is roll the end to get the mess off of there
    This is Gold. On the non attached end of the roller tube. That area will/can leave a defined line of paint, or even sorta splatter. I always do that as well.

    Are you actually doing walls with those mini rollers? And did ya notice the ends of the roller handles are threaded for paint/broom sticks?
     

    ShamrockPat

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    awsum140

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    I have to admit my best painting rigs have been "paint pumps". I had one where the pump that had a set of rollers that revolved inside the pump. As it revolved it compressed/squeezed a vinyl tube with one end in the can of paint and the other attached to the roller. There was an automatic pressure switch and a trigger to feed paint on the roller handle. The rollers had perforations all through the cores to let the paint get out to the nap. You could paint until your arms fell off from fatigue, and trust me, your arms did get fatigued from the weight of the hose full of paint and the roller being always loaded with paint. It did make painting really fast, but cleanup was a bear because of all the tubing, the pump plus 50' from the pump to the roller handle. It even had a pad and mini roller as well.

    The other one was a real paint pump, 3/4hp with 3000psi tip pressure. Just drop the suction tube into a five gallon bucket of paint and go. I used to paint houses, new construction. I'd go in before the doors, cabinets and trim were hung. A couple of hours masking what had to get masked, and I had masking guns for that in various sizes of paper, then paint. A whole house, one color only, ceilings and walls, four bedrooms, two stories, family and dining rooms plus kitchen, living room, utility room and a two car garage, call it a total of 3000 to 4000 square feet, in under a day. Call it 35 gallons of paint, total. That was Sherwin Williams contractor grade so it had to go on a little heavy. Go back the next day and pull the masking. Very smooth, consistent finish and cleanup wasn't too bad either. Just don't get your hand in front of that nozzle when spraying anything though. Instant injection injury, not good at all.
     

    ShamrockPat

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    @awsum140 I always wondered about those pumps. I don't even want to imagine the cleanup. You pro's make it look too easy. We found it shocking when our Pro, 15 feet up a ladder would shoot the breeze with us while laying down a straight line with his 20 year old horse hair brush.

    @kiba
    First off, I'd say the quality of the job is like 75% the prep before we ever open the paint.

    Our routine is always this, you'll find your way.
    Caulk baseboard (very thin bead just to hide that tiny gap) and wall, when dry paint them. No tape necessary as you'll paint over it.
    Frog tape at baseboard. We then cut in all baseboards, corners, ceiling, etc. <- Wifey gets to do all due to my old shaky hands (now I just gotta convince her to solder up mods for me)
    Then I roll, always preferring two coats over one. So light, sometimes even seeing like a sheen from what was underneath. Cuts down on runs as well.
    Remove frog tape an hour or so (same day but before it's completely dry) after doing wall
     

    mikepetro

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    If I recall correctly? We had this Lipo discussion here once.
    Apparently the lipo is in some suspended state of chemical composion till it's charged fully?
    This increases it's shelf life. Maybe Mike can chime in & Verify/Clarify?
    Shipping Lipo batteries, here to Canada from the States is Ground ship only :(
    I got a set out of the States for a build, just recently.
    Out of China, I'm not sure But from FT there are no options to Ship to Canada for any battery let alone a lipo.

    This mite give the DIY Mod builders that little Boost We need :)
    Steamer, I know I have read that, and in multiple places, but I can find a reference at the moment, my Google-Fu is failing me. My impression was that there was some kind of protective film that increased supply chain shelf life but got dissipated upon the first charge cycle.

    At one point a few years back I did a LOT of reading up on Lipos and remember coming across it in that research.
     

    SlickWilly

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    Question for you guys, I use my little notebook in the shop hooked up to a monitor for looking up info on the web while out in the shop, I'm on the edge of a decent wifi signal, it sometimes lags badly. Opening up the notebook I see it has an integrated wifi module much like the removable lap top module below, it has a very short plug in antenna lead. Can I strip back the wire of the antenna lead and add some length of wire to get a better signal or change the antenna out for a longer one? Or are these antenna leads tuned and matched to the module and can't be messed with?

    26e5fb94-2c0.jpeg
     
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    Steamer861

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    Steamer, I know I have read that, and in multiple places, but I can find a reference at the moment, my Google-Fu is failing me. My impression was that there was some kind of protective film that increased supply chain shelf life but got dissipated upon the first charge cycle.

    At one point a few years back I did a LOT of reading up on Lipos and remember coming across it in that research.

    I'm sure everyone here will take your word on it :)
     

    SlickWilly

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    I'm sure everyone here will take your word on it :)

    Well now that you guys bring it up, some sleeping brain cells woke up and I do remember the chat about it with Mike so yeah, that was the gist of it, shelf life protected until charged.
     

    awsum140

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    Willie, I can't say for sure if trying to add antenna would help. Those things MAY be sensitive to the impedance of the antenna and if you change the antenna the impedance change as well which can have unpredictable results. Then, add in the idea that an antenna is a tuned circuit so you need to have the length right, as in 1/4 wavelengths, with 1/4 wavelength, generally, being optimal. I'd suggest either a USB plugin WiFi adapter in dual band, assuming your router is dual band, or a WiFi extender. Way better choices without the risk of cooking that WiFi card or damaging the laptop/tablet.
     

    awsum140

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    I remember watching a pro paint a wall where I worked. I was working at an electrical supply house and the wall was about 30 feet long with "buck boards", so it looked like a barn style door, that we mounted coach style lamps to, lots of cutting with acute angles since the buck boards were getting white with a brownish tan wall. This guy was talking and telling jokes, looking around and never made a mistake and used a two inch brush! Hand like a rock.

    I finally had to ask him how he managed to do it. He told me years of experience and actually letting the paint sort of run as he worked down each board, letting the running paint actually follow the joint and just smoothing with the brush. It only took him about a half hour to do that whole darn wall!

    I tried it and it does work, but it takes a LOT of practice along with a steady hand. My hands aren't quite that steady any more and I'm way out of practice.
     

    SlickWilly

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    Willie, I can't say for sure if trying to add antenna would help. Those things MAY be sensitive to the impedance of the antenna and if you change the antenna the impedance change as well which can have unpredictable results. Then, add in the idea that an antenna is a tuned circuit so you need to have the length right, as in 1/4 wavelengths, with 1/4 wavelength, generally, being optimal. I'd suggest either a USB plugin WiFi adapter in dual band, assuming your router is dual band, or a WiFi extender. Way better choices without the risk of cooking that WiFi card or damaging the laptop/tablet.

    Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. I'm asking too much of the notebook I guess, I'll have to find a cheap used laptop. I had my wife's old laptop and it didn't have any trouble getting a good signal but I left it out there over the winter, moisture got to it and it fried on first attempt to boot up. Took it apart and found the metal chassis rusted, flakes of rust covering the motherboard. I tried striping it down, cleaning it and blowing it out with compressed air but it's toast, no saving it.
     
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    Alexander Mundy

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    Took it apart and found the metal chassis rusted, flakes of rust covering the motherboard.

    If a board is not too far gone most non aerosol hair sprays will eat the corrosion off circuit boards. Use a tooth brush with the hair spray then rinse with deionized water. I learned that as a teenager trying different things to revive electronics. My mother stopped using hair spray after she asked why it was disappearing faster than she was using it and I showed her. :lol:
     

    SlickWilly

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    If a board is not too far gone most non aerosol hair sprays will eat the corrosion off circuit boards. Use a tooth brush with the hair spray then rinse with deionized water. I learned that as a teenager trying different things to revive electronics. My mother stopped using hair spray after she asked why it was disappearing faster than she was using it and I showed her. :lol:

    I tried cleaning it with spray electronics cleaner, a soft brush and compressed air, I flushed it twice. What I found was corrosion from the rust started eating into the board as well, those tiny runs to processors on the board were corroded, it's just beyond saving. I'll get by with the notebook until I find a cheap laptop, it is what it is, it's my fault for leaving the laptop out there during the winter.
     
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    tiburonfirst

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    Don't know, I've never tried them, may be something to look into, thanks! :thumb:
    worth a try i think ;) if the lap top was able to keep a connection because of a better wifi card one of these adapters might do the trick for the note book.
     

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