I don't visit here (ECF) much these days, well - I don't visit anywhere much these days.... BUT I am curious what everybody in the group is vaping on nowadays? I have been happily using my Aromamizer V2's for quite some time with excellent success... Easy to repeat experience. I do vape TC (SS316 because I bought 1000ft of 28g so I'm gonna use it) however I do vape around 480f
Lately I switched to a Taifun GT4 clone (SRG model from FT) which gave me a headache for a while with leaking from the AFC, until I finally got that contained... Its a decent vape (the GT4 is) love the way it fills (top file with juice flow control on the lower section of the tank) I'm anxiously awaiting my Ulton (ultron?) made one next.
I've been using either my ERM+ with DNA250 2amp charging, or one of those little ebay hana boxes built with a DNA250 (both monochrome models). I don't care about the high watts, hell I don't think it ever hits more than 30-40watts - I just like the 2A charging speed. I have a few DNA75c boards I never played with, DNA60 small I never played with. They're on my list of things to do - but everything in vape land has been pretty run-of-the-mill on this side of the screen. Sometimes I buy juice, other times I make it...
For wicking I primarily use KGD cotton or the Sally's Rayon box which for those who don't know, is enough rayon/cellulose to pass down to your descendants!
I usually prefer the cotton over the rayon, but I think its more of a placebo effect honestly.. I don't think there's enough difference between the two - but I do think (ONLY THINK) cotton holds more juice at a given coil size or holds juice longer before it wicks and makes air bubbles in tank (ie: wicks in new juice).
On a side note, I tried going back to Kanthal recently (can't remember exactly why?) but either my wire was dirty or I did something terribly wrong, the vape taste like METAL... That phase didn't last long.
So whats the new hotness for everybody here?
Lately I switched to a Taifun GT4 clone (SRG model from FT) which gave me a headache for a while with leaking from the AFC, until I finally got that contained... Its a decent vape (the GT4 is) love the way it fills (top file with juice flow control on the lower section of the tank) I'm anxiously awaiting my Ulton (ultron?) made one next.
I've been using either my ERM+ with DNA250 2amp charging, or one of those little ebay hana boxes built with a DNA250 (both monochrome models). I don't care about the high watts, hell I don't think it ever hits more than 30-40watts - I just like the 2A charging speed. I have a few DNA75c boards I never played with, DNA60 small I never played with. They're on my list of things to do - but everything in vape land has been pretty run-of-the-mill on this side of the screen. Sometimes I buy juice, other times I make it...
For wicking I primarily use KGD cotton or the Sally's Rayon box which for those who don't know, is enough rayon/cellulose to pass down to your descendants!
I usually prefer the cotton over the rayon, but I think its more of a placebo effect honestly.. I don't think there's enough difference between the two - but I do think (ONLY THINK) cotton holds more juice at a given coil size or holds juice longer before it wicks and makes air bubbles in tank (ie: wicks in new juice).On a side note, I tried going back to Kanthal recently (can't remember exactly why?) but either my wire was dirty or I did something terribly wrong, the vape taste like METAL... That phase didn't last long.
So whats the new hotness for everybody here?
Howdy stranger!
Still a great tank. Although I tend to use my Vapefly Galaxies MTL RDTA more nowadays. Its more of a RDA than a RDTA, think of it as a RDA with a 2ml drip well, because that is closer to what it really is.
I use SS316L for about 40% of the time and nickel the other 60%.
Great mods for sure.
Same here.
I got 4 of them here up and running.
I ordered a XvoStick DNA60 and they will start making about a hundred of them soon. I'll probably get it in early February.
Same here.
Same for me too.For wicking I primarily use KGD cotton or the Sally's Rayon box which for those who don't know, is enough rayon/cellulose to pass down to your descendants!
Exactly.
Bingo! I did a Kanthal build for some reason. I guess because I forgot what it was like vaping without Kanthal for 2 years. And all I tasted was iron.
Say heard all of the going ons with the FDA? The latest is that online ordering for vaping products might be next on the chopping block. For me, that means traveling 100 miles to a vape shop.
Or...
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I don't visit here (ECF) much these days, well - I don't visit anywhere much these days.... BUT I am curious what everybody in the group is vaping on nowadays? I have been happily using my Aromamizer V2's for quite some time with excellent success... Easy to repeat experience. I do vape TC (SS316 because I bought 1000ft of 28g so I'm gonna use it) however I do vape around 480f
Lately I switched to a Taifun GT4 clone (SRG model from FT) which gave me a headache for a while with leaking from the AFC, until I finally got that contained... Its a decent vape (the GT4 is) love the way it fills (top file with juice flow control on the lower section of the tank) I'm anxiously awaiting my Ulton (ultron?) made one next.
I've been using either my ERM+ with DNA250 2amp charging, or one of those little ebay hana boxes built with a DNA250 (both monochrome models). I don't care about the high watts, hell I don't think it ever hits more than 30-40watts - I just like the 2A charging speed. I have a few DNA75c boards I never played with, DNA60 small I never played with. They're on my list of things to do - but everything in vape land has been pretty run-of-the-mill on this side of the screen. Sometimes I buy juice, other times I make it...
For wicking I primarily use KGD cotton or the Sally's Rayon box which for those who don't know, is enough rayon/cellulose to pass down to your descendants!
On a side note, I tried going back to Kanthal recently (can't remember exactly why?) but either my wire was dirty or I did something terribly wrong, the vape taste like METAL... That phase didn't last long.
So whats the new hotness for everybody here?
I think a lot of Us, like your self have hit our stride
Vaping has become routine.The common thread being the "DNA" & "TC". There hasn't been any real new innovation since the 250 & 2 amp charging.
I'v all ways been on the look out for a "Better" tank! Lately nothing peaks my interest
IMO a DNA board, a SteamCrave tank (The +) Ti Wire & KGD is as good as it's going to get, for Me
I'v upgraded to the "C" chips, if you can call it that? Not really any better than a Plain DNA, just a nicer screen.
I'm just happy to be a non smoker
5 years for me now 
I'm happy with all my DNA mods, 75s, 200s, 250s, and Cs. I rarely go over 25 watts, so they all perform very well. My primary atomizers are Aromamizers, V1 and V2. I like a wide open draw so the V1 with no silicon ring works well for me. Mrs. Awsum uses the V2s and likes a more restricted draw so that all works out well. I have some Merlins as well, single coil, that also perform very well (thanks for mentioning those, Mike). I use them on the 75s since being a single coil makes for longer battery life.
I do have a couple of FEV V1 and V2s still in use. I have them set up with all stainless tanks and they are my "outside" tanks, on Aegis mods. Between the mod being built like a tank, Abrams, and the all steel tank of the FEV, they're about as durable as you can get. I've run them over with the lawn tractor, picked them up, dusted them off and kept right on vaping.
All I use for wicks is good old Graham (Sally's) rayon. Sticking to the same tanks all the time makes wicking them really easy and fast...practice makes perfect. I've settled on five wrap, 26 gauge, titanium coils on a 3.3mm mandrel for everything. Mrs. Awsum likes SS430 so her coils are 5 wrap, 28 gauge, 3.3mm and they perform very well, also.
I've got lots of 316L that will never get used, too unstable for my tastes, and that's fine with me. There's still a ton of kanthal hanging around and I have no intention of ever using it again, unless I try building a low voltage toaster.
I do have a couple of FEV V1 and V2s still in use. I have them set up with all stainless tanks and they are my "outside" tanks, on Aegis mods. Between the mod being built like a tank, Abrams, and the all steel tank of the FEV, they're about as durable as you can get. I've run them over with the lawn tractor, picked them up, dusted them off and kept right on vaping.
All I use for wicks is good old Graham (Sally's) rayon. Sticking to the same tanks all the time makes wicking them really easy and fast...practice makes perfect. I've settled on five wrap, 26 gauge, titanium coils on a 3.3mm mandrel for everything. Mrs. Awsum likes SS430 so her coils are 5 wrap, 28 gauge, 3.3mm and they perform very well, also.
I've got lots of 316L that will never get used, too unstable for my tastes, and that's fine with me. There's still a ton of kanthal hanging around and I have no intention of ever using it again, unless I try building a low voltage toaster.
so why leave just because willy didn't have his spectacles on?
Right!
Don't make decisions from anything I say, good golly if your doing that, yikes! 
I'm just a member of the peanut gallery. That's me.
Anybody here have experience with what anchors will work on walls that are (3/4" thick) plaster over metal lathe?
SnapToggle would work for heavy stuff like big drapes, but they require a 1/2" hole, would love to find an anchor for smaller stuff like towel racks. Most generic plastic anchors I have tried have not worked well. Is there anything new and effective out there?
Damn old mid 50s walls are solid, but NOT decorator friendly. Hell, I cant even find the studs in these things, none of the magnet tricks work because the metal lathe makes the whole wall equally magnetic.
SnapToggle would work for heavy stuff like big drapes, but they require a 1/2" hole, would love to find an anchor for smaller stuff like towel racks. Most generic plastic anchors I have tried have not worked well. Is there anything new and effective out there?
Damn old mid 50s walls are solid, but NOT decorator friendly. Hell, I cant even find the studs in these things, none of the magnet tricks work because the metal lathe makes the whole wall equally magnetic.
Easiest way to find a stud is find an outlet. There will be a stud on one side or the other. Remove the plate and use a "probe" to feel each side to find the stud. Then it's simply every 16, or maybe 24, inches from there. I had a nightmare house with lath and plaster that was built in the mid 1800's using "balloon" construction. The stus went wherever the felt like putting one.
Plaster can be a bummer to get a decent anchor into. Have you tried a pilot hole and then a sheet metal screw to grab the lath? Standard masonry anchors won't work well because they expand and the plaster around it will crumble. Other than that, toggle bolts are the only other thing I can think of. There are plastic toggle bolts now, as well, which might "blend" better on the surface. Most of those you can get by with a 1/4" hole, if that helps.
Plaster can be a bummer to get a decent anchor into. Have you tried a pilot hole and then a sheet metal screw to grab the lath? Standard masonry anchors won't work well because they expand and the plaster around it will crumble. Other than that, toggle bolts are the only other thing I can think of. There are plastic toggle bolts now, as well, which might "blend" better on the surface. Most of those you can get by with a 1/4" hole, if that helps.
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I had issues with anchors holding up a shower surround. I had no stud behind to anchor to, & the glass door was heavy. I went thru ceramic tile & half inch drywall.
I found these at Home Depot, can't find the listing now but this is what they look like
They really hold well
Good magnet and some dental floss. And it has to be a good magnet. Grew up with plaster walls.
Anything that expands in the wall crumbles the plaster unless I make the hole so big that it barely grabs.
These things require a smaller hole than regular toggle bolts, but a 1/2" hole is still too big for a towel rack or whatever. I will probably use them for the drapes and the shower curtain rod. One thing I read somewhere was to only use one for strength and then just us a regular plastic anchor to maintain alignment on the 2nd hole.
Mollys are an option, only problem is that any long enough to go through 3/4" before they collapse still have a big diameter, and you better not screw up or you will be patching walls. It also plays hell on drill bits. I have to use a masonry bit until I hit the lathe and then switch to metal bit, otherwise it eats metal bits up in no time.
Grabbing the metal lathe is hit and miss. The studs are on 16" centers, so I can figure it out, thats the ideal is to grab a stud, but Murphy's law says that no stud will be where I (she) need(s) one.
Right now all the walls in the house are freshly patched and getting freshly painted, I want to do the rehanging right so I dont lose the clean look.
I have heard that they have some pretty good construction adhesives out now, like epoxy, that you drill a pilot hole then fill the hole with goop and stick your screw in it, not sure how that would hold up to plaster though.
I have some very strong neodymium magnets, much stronger the hard drive kind, the metal lathe just magnetically masks all the nails underneath it. The magnet will stick just about anywhere on the wall. About all I can find is the ribs on the edge of the expanded metal panels, the magnet sticks stronger there.
Anybody ever use these? Says it is for plaster????
https://www.amazon.com/Container-Store-Drywall-Plaster-Anchors/dp/B0066E9BYA
https://www.amazon.com/Container-Store-Drywall-Plaster-Anchors/dp/B0066E9BYA
Find the studs. My experience with old lathe and plaster is that it will end up cracking with repeated force acting as a fulcrum with something anchored to it.Similar threads
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