Evolv Kick in Atmizoo Roller w/o T2 Tube?

[Shiryo]

I can't seem to get a straight answer on this anywhere.

Has anyone thrown a kick into a Atmizoo Roller without the T2 tube (18500/18350)? I was looking at my inner tube and battery clearance looks to be pretty minimal, I heard from Atmizoo that the T2 tube is for kicking a 18650 but they didn't confirm with me that it is needed for the 18350/18500 series batteries. Don't want to order a T2 tube just to kick an 18350/18500.

I just find SR Cartos and standard 3.6-4.1v AW IMRs are not doing it for me no matter how hard I try to get myself to want it. Just not enough flavor.

 

[Shiryo]

Maaan no one?

 

[Covert]

Yes It works I just got mine today and am running that setup. I would suggest investing in the 18650+kick extension though i'm sucking down batteries.

 

[Shiryo]

Thanks for the report. Although since this post, I have invested into twisted wire coils for sub-ohm vaping and I don't think I need a kick, unless I decide to go cartomizer route on the Roller.

Could you do me a favor and post a quick video review/report of vaping something like a 3Ω carto with a kick with the roller? I wanna see how well it vapes.

 

[Covert]

I can assure you that I can get the same clouds with a 3ohm kicked carto or wrapped RBA that I can by wrapping a 1.5ohm coil on a non kicked mod.Only difference is the vape seems to be hotter on a 1.5 ohm coil.

 

[Shiryo]

Interesting... Sounds like it gives mechanical mods a true chance at being on par with higher resistance stuff.

I personally didn't like low resistance carto setups on my ProVari and went with a 3ohm carto at around 5.1Ω ±0.2. So that is great news! A Kick + 18490 sounds nice. Is it even possible to run the 18650 with a kick and no T2 tube, for science, or does the outer tube just fall off? What about without the bottom cap spring?

 

[Covert]

I tried to kick it with a 18650 and it does not work. I want to try to take out my spring, the delrin O-ring in the end cap, and lower the endcap all the way, but I cant get the delrin oring out and don't want to force it so I just stuck with a 18500 and kick until I can get the t2 tube. But now that i've ordered more kanthal I might just put my kick away and learn to wrap low ohm coils. Also if you bore out the airhole on whatever RBA to 1/16 you'll end up with a cooler vape that feels almost exacty like a 3.0 ohm wrap.

 

[Shiryo]

I like the warmer vapes. I actually been running a 0.9Ω (0.45Ω) twisted wire coil on my RBA but JUST finished a new twisted wire coil and it read 0.7Ω (0.35Ω), vapes like a steam engine. Only downside is I put the coil on the wrong end of the posts and is opposite of the air-hole, so I messed up, but still vapes like a train. I shall fix it next coil rebuild, but i'm happy so far.

 

[Covert]

I'm starting to like warmer vapes, but am still not sold all the way. I'm running a twisted wire 1.4 ohm dream atty and a puff daddy atty with a .4 ohm wrap. With the .4 wrap on my roller I can actually feel the Roller heat up when I vape I'm thinking .4 might not be to good for batteries or devices : /

 

[Shiryo]

Do you have a short somewhere? Also, when you say .4 is that reading on the twisted wire? You gotta cut that reading in half, it's kinf od like a dual coil in a way, so if you're really vaping at 0.2Ω that's insane! My 0.35Ω coil is killer with a 3/3 wrap on a battery that is only reading 3.7v on the voltmeter, back when it was fresh off the charger, it was borderline just too much for me.

Also, twisted wire not only halfs the resistance but nearly halfs your battery life, it strains batteries a lot. However my battery doesn't heat up, nor does the device or switch assembly.

 

[iamtumus]

what kind of batteries are you using?'
if the meter reads the twisted coil at .9, that's what it is.
I would honestly say if you're using AW IMR, don't go below .7 ohm and if you're using MNKE don't go below .6 ohm.

There's such a small margin for error there and it could literally be catastrophic.

 

[Shiryo]

AW IMR 18350s, I push the bar hard lol.... Should be getting my AW IMR 18490 and 18650 today, will check mail in an hour or so, it's yet to arrive.

I've been told that when you meter the twisted wire, you have to half it. Now i'm confused. I mean yeah 0.7Ω is really nice, and halving that to 0.35Ω would be insane, I am using a snap-on DMM. I just pulled a battery out of the mod after vaping it for what seemed like forever and the voltage was at 3.58v, Practically .... myself because the vape experience was still as good as a fresh battery! Just popped in a new battery and it's like Hiroshima in my mouth.

 

[Covert]

Was running 28 awg with about 3 wraps on a doubled up 2mm silica wick and I used my Fluke to meter it and it had no shorts. I have since switched to 30awg and wrap to about 1 ohm and it's perfect for me. And Iamtumus is right whatever it reads on my fluke is what i'm going with. I believe my meter over anything. Also pushing sub ohm coils can be very dangerous if you don't know your batteries max amp discharge rate. It's better to stay at 1 or above, from what I can gather anything less than 4- 5 coils is kinda innefficent

 

[Shiryo]

Yeah, I also have a Snap-On DMM (Manufactured by Fluke) and I use it for my automotive work.

My 1 week old 0.7Ω twisted wire coil is now sitting at a 0.6Ω. I got the idea of halving the resistance readout when I was speaking with one of the guys over at Holocron Labs (They make a fuse for mech mods) and told me to half the reading for twisted wire, like you would on a dual coil setup.

The setup is a 3/3 wrap and throws out vapor like no tomorrow along with killing juice like a Hummer lol.

I'm happy with the setup personally. I've tried a 1Ω coil and couldn't do it, too cold, not enough vapor. However i've seen videos of people running true 1-1.5Ω coils dishing mad plumes of vapor, so I don't know what i'm doing wrong there. I might switch to a 28awg Kanthal A1 and see how that goes, but I just got a 100' spool of 32awg.

Also, using a twisted setup as you are there is something to bear in mind since it is a parallel coil assembly, your 0.8ohm pair of coils actually = 0.4ohms when finished and in use.
The math is as follows:
R total = R1xR2 / R1+R2
or in practical terms for your application it is:
0.8x0.8 = 0.64
divided by
0.8+0.8 = 1.6
equals
0.4

So your 0.4ohm coil assembly will in fact be pulling 10.5A at 4.2V

Hope this helps.

As far as amperage goes. These are the amperage ratings on the follow AW IMR cells:

AW IMR 18350 @ 700mAh = .7Ah = 8*.7 = 5.6amps
AW IMR 18490 @ 1100mAh = 1.1Ah = 8*1.1 = 8.8amps
AW IMR 18650 @ 2000mAh = 2Ah = 8*2 = 16amps

8 meaning 8C, the max continuous discharge rate.

Plugging in all my setup specs:

Fresh Battery: 4.2v
Lowest Point I use it: 3.65v

DMM: 0.6Ω
Actual: 0.43Ω

Max Amp discharge (DMM): 7A
Min Amp discharge (DMM): 6.08A
Max Amp discharge (Actual): 9.76A
Min Amp discharge (Actual): 8.48A

*This is not including the internal voltage drop from the mod and RBA.

Only battery to use safely would be my AW IMR 18650 in terms of actual, but in regards to DMM readout, 18490 is well within the safe zone. However, I use a 18490 on the go. I test my setups and get them running stable via 18650 and then use the 18490 or even 18350. Never had any issues, and the 18350s are about a year old.

Scary... I'm probably next runner up on the Darwin Awards if Holocron Labs was correct...

 

[durango66]

Yes It works I just got mine today and am running that setup. I would suggest investing in the 18650+kick extension though i'm sucking down batteries.

Yep, the Roller eats batteries, but I love it!

 

[mrcrunch08]

Is there anyone else that has any input on the roller kick question? I see one person says it works and while I haven't tried with the original kick my kick 2 makes a clicking noise and starts to get warm the second I push it down on the battery even without the control head on yet. I have tried different hot springs and even removing the hot spring but get the same clicking. The kick 2 works fine in all my other mods but the roller is what I take out with me along with a carto tank or protank so a kick is necessary for my out and about vaping but of no use at home since I use rba's. I was originally using a sigelei kick clone in the roller with no issue at all so the evolv kick 2 is the issue but given it only does this with the roller I am stumped and can't get a replacement because the say it isn't guaranteed to work in all mods.

 

[Thrasher]

Product Description

Fixed-length, multi-purpose extension for Roller and Dingo SS, primarily designed as a housing for Evolv’s Kick VW module.

Used to enable the following configurations:

Roller: 18650 battery + Kick.
Dingo: 18350 battery + Kick, or 18500 battery.

Available in two different variations:

#RD-T2L – with a pair of decorative lines close to the top threading,
#RD-T2P – plain version, without any decorative elements.

Both come in two brushed finishes – matte or polished as well as our shot-blasted ice-mate finish.

so, according to atmizoo the tube is only needed to kick an 18650. unless there is some height difference between the kick 1 and kick 2 i dont see how it would make a difference.

 

[nelsonm64]

i'm trying to run a kick in my roller with an 18350 and it's not liking it... tried an authentic kick, no go. tried a FT kick, no go. this is a real bummer, I like to run all my mods kicked but, the roller isn't working with it. also tried shimming it up because its a tad loose, no go. removed bottom spring (was suggested), no go.

sorry to dig up this old thread but, i'm hoping someone might have some new info