I have 2 and both are working great so far *finger crossed*. Maybe because I don't have the lung of steel and only use 8.5W on one and 7W on the other. Even 9W give me a burnt taste
Evolv Kick not working right, max 3v output. Plz help!!!!
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I have 2 and both are working great so far *finger crossed*. Maybe because I don't have the lung of steel and only use 8.5W on one and 7W on the other. Even 9W give me a burnt taste
Well, as an update: I contacted Evolv and they said they would replace it. I will be sending it back tomorrow and we will see what happens. I have another that should be delivered by saturday / sunday and I'm hoping that one works.
I appreciate all the comments and stories from you guys, it really helps keep everything in perspective!
I appreciate all the comments and stories from you guys, it really helps keep everything in perspective!
FWIW, I have read a bunch of posts where it becomes evident (not saying this applies here as I do not know - and NOT ASKING) people are using the Kick out of spec -->>> contrary to what is clearly indicated on the Evolv website kick page. Amazingly, people have posted they were using ICR and other non-high-drain batts, stacking batts, turning batts upside down (blows kick - install instructions EXTREMELY clear on Evolv site), using devices not on the Evolv verified list, devices with internal diameter greater than Evolv's requisite 19.5mm internal maximum, jerry-rigging ground wires, using shims, etc., etc., etc.
The thing that amazes me MOST is that these posters either do not take the five minutes it takes to read the Kick page (new Kicks come in a nice little plastic jewel box with a band strapping down the kick - that band says specifically to go to the Evolv website Kick page for detailed use info), or they some how think they can completely ignore the manufacturer's specifications and instructions, use out of spec, shim/jerry-rig-wires/etc. and end up destroying the product by means of only their own negligence and/or other user error and then somehow expect the manufacturer to fix or replace the product that the user destroyed/damaged.
Moreover, these same people seem to think it is appropriate to come into forums and then criticize the product and/or the manufacturer. The audacity is unfathomable and yet I have seen this same basic routine multiple times.
I am not saying Kick is perfect - no electronics product is. But I do know a lot about this particular product and I can say the failure rate [happens in any/all electronics - cell phones, computers, cameras, etc - that's why they have warranties and most of us have had a bad one (or more) of one product or another at some time] is extremely low relative to the extensive quantities now in the world wide vaping market (in other words, in the world of circuit boards the Kick's failure rate is actually very low). There may be a few failures, as with any electronics, but Evolv's customer service is unsurpassed.
The thing that amazes me MOST is that these posters either do not take the five minutes it takes to read the Kick page (new Kicks come in a nice little plastic jewel box with a band strapping down the kick - that band says specifically to go to the Evolv website Kick page for detailed use info), or they some how think they can completely ignore the manufacturer's specifications and instructions, use out of spec, shim/jerry-rig-wires/etc. and end up destroying the product by means of only their own negligence and/or other user error and then somehow expect the manufacturer to fix or replace the product that the user destroyed/damaged.
Moreover, these same people seem to think it is appropriate to come into forums and then criticize the product and/or the manufacturer. The audacity is unfathomable and yet I have seen this same basic routine multiple times.
I am not saying Kick is perfect - no electronics product is. But I do know a lot about this particular product and I can say the failure rate [happens in any/all electronics - cell phones, computers, cameras, etc - that's why they have warranties and most of us have had a bad one (or more) of one product or another at some time] is extremely low relative to the extensive quantities now in the world wide vaping market (in other words, in the world of circuit boards the Kick's failure rate is actually very low). There may be a few failures, as with any electronics, but Evolv's customer service is unsurpassed.
I had exactly the same problem with a kick which i was purchased from a Uk guy and i send him back to replacement because was on warranty...does not matter the battery i was using but always getting same voltage...maybe something with the potensiometer.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
I have no idea what Evolv's page says, because I can't load it. (tried on 3 different pc's and the site crash on all of them. The pc's just stop responding as soon as I enter the site)
Im using my kick in a siam mods cube using an AW IMR highdrain 18490 battery (Used the same setup for both my kicks, one worked and one didn't)
Problem solved:
How to use the Kick
***USE IMR BATTERIES ONLY***The Kick was designed to be used with IMR batteries only.
USE ONLY IMR BATTERIES.
DO NOT REMOVE THE CLEAR SHRINK-WRAP: It acts as a protective second layer of insulation against shorts.
INSTALLING KICK MODULE:The Kick MUST be installed correctly. The bottom of the Kick must sit directly on the positive terminal of the battery (button end for button-top batteries). The top of the Kick (the end with the blue adjustment box) must be oriented towards the head of the device (never towards a device spring). The Kick is designed to be used in 18650 metal tube mods with an IMR 18490 or 18500 battery. Several device manufacturers are considering building extensions or longer tubes to permit the Kick to be used with the larger 18650 IMR batteries. The Kick may also be used with 18500 metal tube mods with an IMR 18350 battery.
GROUND SPRING:You will notice a small spring attached to the top (side edge) of the Kick. This has been carefully designed and is an ESSENTIAL component of the Kick for proper functioning. The spring MUST make contact with the grounded inner wall of the battery tube. If this spring does not make contact, the Kick will not function. SOME (few) DEVICES HAVE ANODIZED or POWDER COAT ON THE INSIDE OF THE BATTERY Compartment. This can interfere with the ground connection. These coatings must be removed at the point of contact with the ground spring.NOTE: DEVICE TUBES VARY The internal diameter is wider on some and narrower on others. Please do not use the Kick in tube mods with an internal diameter greater than 19.5mm.
Setting your Power Level (watts setting): The adjustment potentiometer (blue box) is located on the top side of the Kick. In the center of the box is a white adjustment screw to be used for adjusting the Kicks power setting. The watts settings are marked ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD and can be seen around the pot/blue-box. NOTE: there are lines underneath each setting number, follow the lines to the corresponding watts setting. Turning the adjustment screw clockwise increases power and counter-clockwise decreases power. The settings range is from 5 watts to 10 watts. The Kick performs best with attys/cartos rated between 1.3 to 3.0 Ohms. You can use higher rated resistance but the Kick will not regulate well at the highest power levels if resistance is above 3 ohms. Unlike Variable voltage devices, the Kick does not need frequent adjustments. Once you find your preferred Power level, there is no need to constantly adjust it because the Kick will maintain that Power level even if you change attys/cartos and/or resistance.
You can use an under-load digital meter to see the volts as you change resistances and/or settings. AN ATOMIZER OR CARTOMIZER MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE METER OR YOU WILL NOT GET ANY READING.
Low Battery Indicator: The Kick will detect, and stop functioning, when a battery charge level drops below 3.2 volts UNDER LOAD (with an atty/carto attached). This is a safety feature. The Kick will tell you this feature is activating when you experience STUTTER VAPE (vapor-no vapor alternating may feel like tss-tss-tss). If you continue to vape beyond this indicator, the Kick will stop functioning until a fresh battery charge is detected. If you remove the battery and meter test it (unloaded) it may read between 3.4 and 3.6 volts. There are many variables that can contribute to the various unloaded readings.
Battery life per charge: Many variables contribute to battery life per charge cycle. The Kick incorporates a boost circuit which requires more of your battery. Aggregate button/activation time, power setting, and atty/carto selection all factor into this equation. Battery age and conductive efficiency of the different devices are also variables. Using the Kick will reduce battery life per charge cycle. There is no way to provide use time per charge cycle as there are too many variables. On average, testers experienced reductions ranging from 10 to 20% depending on many different use variables.
Short Circuit Protection: The Kick will detect shorts in the connection between the Kick and the atty/carto coil. This sensor is sensitive and if it detects short, the Kick will not fire. If you experience this, unthread your atty/carto and clean out any accumulated juice in all connections and then gently re-thread atty/carto until only finger-tip snug. If device still will not fire, try a different atty/carto and/or adapter. This is designed both as a safety feature and to protect the components of the Kick module.
Battery safetylease read the information on ECF and your battery supplier about recommended battery maintenance and overall battery safety in charging and using your batteries. Older batteries may not function as well as newer batteries. If a battery ever shows any sign of damage (torn or cracked outer surface, dents, or other), please discontinue all use of that battery and dispose of it in an approved battery recycling facility. Batteries should never be thrown into the trash they should always be given to a recycling center that accepts batteries.IF, FOR ANY REASON, YOU EXPEREINCE A BATTERY THAT OVER-HEATS, PLEASE IMMEDIATELY DISCONTINUE USE OF THAT BATTERY. IF THIS HAPPENS WHILE USING YOUR KICK MODULE PLEASE NOTIFY EVOLVAPOR USING THE CONTACT US LINK ON THE EVOLVAPOR.COM WEBSITE.
Warning!
*****REMEMBER USE IMR BATTERIES ONLY*****
The Kick is designed to be used only as specified in these instructions. Using the Kick module in any configuration other than as outlined above will VOID THE WARRANTY and will be at your own risk. EVOLV cannot warranty, or be responsible for, any user modifications to the device and/or any application other than as specifically described in these user instructions.
Note: The base of the Kick module is a heat synch. You may notice some warmth on the body of your devices with heavy use. This warmth is normal.
Tested Devices
(Note: this is by no means a complete list of compatible devices but rather a list of devices verified as compatible in our testing.)
Tested devices:
XHaler
Precise Plus and P18650 (P18500 with 18350 battery)
Megaladon
Silver Bullet
Empire (best to fully down thread outer sleeve when installing and removing Kick)
GVM (Groove and Smooth)
GGTS
Roughstack
The Cube
REO Grand (modifications required: please check with device manufacturer for further details.)
Triple V
BAM
Shockwave (Super T)
Legacy
Other metal tube devices may work with the Kick module, please adhere to the above mentioned 19.5mm internal diameter dimension
Hope it works for you had a similair problem with my kick/ggts have you another mod that you cantry kick with ? i found the problem lay with the ggts and NOT the kick
Terry
I agree completely and I have used the kick as per their online instructions. I recently received the new one and it works perfectly in the exact same configuration as I had the faulty unit in. Thanks for the advice though.
It does surprise me sometimes when I read what people do with it, then complain. The instructions are very clear as to DO's and DONT's.
Terry- I found that it works in the GGTS just fine especially after I switched the button pin from the stainless one to the included brass one. Also making sure ALL the electrical contact points were shiny clean and free from anything helped tons. What problems were you having with the GGTS and the kick? who knows I might be able to help
FWIW, some of the verified devices have Kick dedicated threads in the device manufacturer's subforum. I know GG has one where people discuss various configurations, etc.
The thing to remember is that Kick is the first and only drop-in module. Evolv tried to make it as universal as possible however, its functionality is all about conductivity. Various devices have various configurations, contacts, metals, tolerances, etc and there is no way for Evolv to compensate for all those variations. Using Kick according to spec (as outlined on their website) is the best approach to consistency (and not voiding the warranty). Beyond that, looking for the various device specific threads is your second step to get the best out of your Kick.
The thing to remember is that Kick is the first and only drop-in module. Evolv tried to make it as universal as possible however, its functionality is all about conductivity. Various devices have various configurations, contacts, metals, tolerances, etc and there is no way for Evolv to compensate for all those variations. Using Kick according to spec (as outlined on their website) is the best approach to consistency (and not voiding the warranty). Beyond that, looking for the various device specific threads is your second step to get the best out of your Kick.
Yeah, that's how I arrived on trying the brass button pin. A few people had said it helped and in my case it seems to have solved all problems with the new unit. The old kick is still broken, but I'm sending it back hopefully for an exchange. Either way, I want to try a DNA and make it into a "kick" module. it will be longer, but the GGTS is cut out for that perfectly.. but thats a whole other thread
Thanks for all the advice NebulaBrot!!
Just a quick update. Brandon at Evolve was a pleasure to deal with, and they shipped out my replacement yesterday. The only Problem now is that ill have another kick (replacement and the other I bought) so I think im going to have to get another PV to use the kick with.. hmmm the P+ looks quite good for a new home..
Thanks again to everyone that commented back. Hopefully all this info will help others in the future too.
Thanks again to everyone that commented back. Hopefully all this info will help others in the future too.
Not all Kicks are created equal. I have 2. I am using in 2 GP Paps (18500 and 18650 tubes). one fits perfect and the other is a little sloppy. the sloppy one is so in both tubes and has can no longer be be adjusted, stuck at 5 watts. I use only red lable AW's.......I just stopped and tried to adjust it again.... this time I applied a smidge of pressure to the driver as I turned... and it adjusted....from 4.5 watts to 6.2watts. I am still hoping that evolv with swap it out. the other unit adjusts with NO pressure. The one that was giving me issue never needed any pressure to adjust before. I never adjusted since I got it....I vape CE2's and Genesis. With two mods, one with genesis and and the other was for ce2's, but now my GF is vaping and she has one of them.
I've been using my Kick for about a month without issue on several different systems, SB, Omega and Lazer Touch Kick edition. This has been an informative thread. What I like most about my Kick now is knowing that if it fails, Evolv will stand behind it. Even if the repair was a modest price plus shipping, it is nice knowing it is not a throw away addition to the collection.
I'll probably buy another Kick as a back up.
I'll probably buy another Kick as a back up.
This seems to be the place where I might be able to get an answer to what I've been after, just how low ohms wise can the Kick go before it declares a short and cuts off?
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