fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

[vapdivrr]

I have to report that mine is performing very well, it seems as though it's doing ok....and then Bamm it's performing great I guess after sanding mine down a bit more made a big difference. I still would like to try the 30 gauge kanthal, but for now I'm pretty happy with this set-up. 1/8" wick sanded down on a ZAP with 2ohm coil @ 4.5 volts.

cool deal, glad to hear having better results. i do think you will like the 30g better, maybe a 4/5 wrap? with the 1/8 wick i am actually using 29g wire with a 4/5 wrap at 1.2 ohms. i did however use the 30g with the 3/32 wick, and that was rocking at the same resistance. i do believe that the zap is the hardest atty to get working with the ceramic wick, but it didnt stop you. it will get even better.

 

[Hello World]

Well guys, this is my AGA-T tank prepared for the 1/8th Ceramic wick, I actually removed the negative post as well and made a second wick hole should I choose to go down that path later.
I used our workshop and carefully measured it all out and as you can see the 1/8th hole now is very close to both the center post and the glass, I dont think it leaves room to go to the next size drill bit
What I did do though is run the drill bit in and out many times allowing the 1/8th drill bit to be loose fitted into the hole to the point I can tilt the bit just a touch.
What I learnt about the the AGA-T Plus (with ceramic tank) is that it's not stainless steel like I thought (dont know why I thought that) but it is actually alloy so very easy to work with it, heck I could have done this at home with a hand drill, but hey I have access to a workshop so why not!
Now if only my wicks would arrive today I would be ready to play.

I'm pretty sure the AGA-T2 has that room plus a little more, which I'm going to cut at 4mm. The inside of it's cap also did not strike me as stainless steel, but some other alloy, but I can't be sure.

 

[vapdivrr]

I'm pretty sure the AGA-T2 has that room plus a little more, which I'm going to cut at 4mm. The inside of it's cap also did not strike me as stainless steel, but some other alloy, but I can't be sure.

i think that previous post was with the new aga, and it seemed like he was only able to drill to a max of 1/8

 

[Hello World]

i think that previous post was with the new aga, and it seemed like he was only able to drill to a max of 1/8

Not sure ... but they seem to be very similar type of deals.

AGA Tiamat PLUS w/Glass Tank and AGA-T2 RBA Tank

More here:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ing-porous-ceramic-wicks-196.html#post8752237

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ing-porous-ceramic-wicks-198.html#post8757172

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ing-porous-ceramic-wicks-200.html#post8759453

So I cannot comment on his tank, and if it's the same as the AGA-T2, but it's very obvious looking at mine right this minute more room than 1/8 exists. My previous post was informational only, and not a comment on his AGA-T.

 

[vapdivrr]

Not sure ... but they seem to be very similar type of deals.

AGA Tiamat PLUS w/Glass Tank and AGA-T2 RBA Tank

oh, so they may be 2 different types of new ones? i was going to purchase a new aga, i must look more closely at them to see before i buy

 

[Elias]

The one I showed in the image is the AGA Tiamat Plus w/Glass Tank. It has very little room, certainly no way a 4mm drill bit can be used as it will go past the glass and close to the center post to be uncomfortable that the threads may be damaged when tightening up and possibly even go into it, look at the image and imagine just 10% larger let alone 25% larger to make it to 4mm. The Glass Tank version is a no go for anything larger than 1/8th otherwise you will be into the O ring of the glass section.

 

[Elias]

Perhaps a better image to show how close it is at a loose fitting 1/8 hole

 

[StaircaseWit]

What I learnt about the the AGA-T Plus (with ceramic tank) is that it's not stainless steel like I thought (dont know why I thought that) but it is actually alloy so very easy to work with it, heck I could have done this at home with a hand drill, but hey I have access to a workshop so why not!

It is in fact stainless, 304 if I remember correctly. Slumberland on reddit mods these. He's had specs from the manufacturer (Youde) that specify the metals used. The cap and sides are highly polished, but it's non-magnetic stainless.

I burned through two 1/8" cobalt drill bits drilling out my AGA-T2 (although I did drill out both the wick and "silica post" holes), and I pre-drilled with a 7/64" bit to make it easier.

 

[Lhartman89]

I just sent an email to YDT asking them what grade stainless steel it is made out of a couple of hours ago.

I would say 304 looks correct as I pulled this from google but I guess it would be kind of hard to tell considering the listing that picture was used for states a bunch of other grades but it looks a lot like the top plate where the wick and fill hole and all that good stuff of my T+ and T2 are.

 

[Elias]

It is in fact stainless, 304 if I remember correctly. Slumberland on reddit mods these. He's had specs from the manufacturer (Youde) that specify the metals used. The cap and sides are highly polished, but it's non-magnetic stainless.

I burned through two 1/8" cobalt drill bits drilling out my AGA-T2 (although I did drill out both the wick and "silica post" holes), and I pre-drilled with a 7/64" bit to make it easier.

OK I'm not going to say it is not, because I am not sure, one thing I can say is that I was using a drill press, machine oil, and the bits we use a specific for stainless, could be that the setup I had was just right and went through it easy?
I know one thing I did de-burr it by hand, I would have thought stainless would have been a little tougher, but then again I have 0 experience drilling stainless, this is the first time I drilled stainless (if in fact it is) it just felt like alloy the way it de-burred and the way it went through... maybe the one I have could be a rip off? not a genuine? I dont know... I will have to play with it later and see if I can scratch it like alloy somewhere where it is not noticeable...

EDIT UPDATE: Tried to scratch it, nope not a chance, screwdriver slid away, yep it's not alloy.... LOL

 

[SteveW]

oh, so they may be 2 different types of new ones? i was going to purchase a new aga, i must look more closely at them to see before i buy

Pretty sure there is only one AGA version 2. It is called the AGA T2 or AGA T+. All the same thing. If there were two different models floating around I think we would have heard about it by now. I just want to see this 4mm hole drilled out. I am going to make a big a call and say that if this is an AGA and can be drilled to 4mm without chewing out the center cavity or going beyond the glass sleeve into the o-ring seat I'll eat my head with my hat on it. If it can be comfortably drilled to 4mm then it cannot be an AGA T2 (+). I have IBTanked tubes on mine and they are thinner than the standard tanks. Still no room for a 4mm hole. If you slide a 4mm bit in there it is pretty much against the post and the glass with no room either side.

 

[gdeal]

i must be missing this quote about blue grasslover? anyways i was using the 3/32 wick before with a 4/5 wrap of 30 and getting the same resistances you are getting with a thicker wick and 1 more wrap, hows that? isnt a 3mm wick pretty wide? maybe its late and im just not thinking, sometimes i even confuse myself.

Its about 3mm, probable just a bit smaller because it is not very tight in the 1/8 hole.Just rehecked. It reading 1.4 ohms now cold.

also gdeal my ceramic hasnt gunked up this bad yet, and i vape some sweet juices. i am not sure about this as well, iwould say to take out and wash or boil, for a dry burn might not be good

OK. sounds good. yes...dry burn bad... I really have not seen any pics of cotton wrapped ceramic after some usage so I dont know if its normal or not, but it still is vaping great.

gdeal you must be vaping other mods as well right, because 10mls isnt much in 4 days. is that all you vape in 4 days?

I rotate with a couple others...cobra, A7, phoenix, line clone, choddy.....

 

[Hello World]

Some infos I just culled on the AGA-Tiamat and AGA-T2:

"The next big thing in rebuildable atomizer tanks is here the AGA-T2 /AGA-T2+ whatever you want to call it. (all the same the AGA-T+ is really the name for the poly carbonite and the AGA-T2 is the name for the Pyrex Glass)"
Smartvapes

"According to the manufacturers site all AGA-T+ come with polycarb tanks. The AGA-T2 come with a glass tank." Nu-vapor

"AGA-T - Tiamat (also known as AGA-W in certain countries, mungkin rebranded kot?)
AGA-T2, AGA-T v2, AGA-T+ - Upgrade of AGA-T with glass tank."
Lowyat

In view of the fact some folks have managed to bore 9/64, even suggest 11/64, and others say no more than 1/8 or 3mm, there may be more differences between the 2 than anyone had previously noticed or mentioned.

 

[DSmooch]

gone a couple of days and everybody's turning "AGA cheese cloth" on me?

 

[Elias]

Pretty sure there is only one AGA version 2. It is called the AGA T2 or AGA T+. All the same thing. If there were two different models floating around I think we would have heard about it by now. I just want to see this 4mm hole drilled out. I am going to make a big a call and say that if this is an AGA and can be drilled to 4mm without chewing out the center cavity or going beyond the glass sleeve into the o-ring seat I'll eat my head with my hat on it. If it can be comfortably drilled to 4mm then it cannot be an AGA T2 (+). I have IBTanked tubes on mine and they are thinner than the standard tanks. Still no room for a 4mm hole. If you slide a 4mm bit in there it is pretty much against the post and the glass with no room either side.

Yeah agreed, I found a steel rule at home and under a magnifying glass 4mm is massive when you compare it to the 1/8th hole I made and you would have to somehow drill slightly off center and go towards the glass otherwise it would definitely go under the post, if there were a 3.3mm drill bit that was readily available maybe....

Who was it that initially said 1/8th is the max size you could go.... they were right...

It's a shame though cause I wanted a loose fitting wick all I could do was run it in and out multiple times to the point where the drill bit drops through the hole with ease, hopefully thats adequate...

Waiting to get the wicks, it's been 9 days now.... once I get them I will have my daughter photograph them in the tanks etc, she has the setup to take detailed photo of stainless steel etc

 

[SteveW]

I sent the following to the Chinese company "High Born" that produce ceramic wicks:

We are using hand made ceramic wicks in rebuildable atomizers at the moment. The most common sizes (diameter) are 3/32 inch (2.4mm), 1/8 inch (3.175mm) and 3.35mm. lengths of wicks vary from 38mm to 50mm. A 50mm size is fine as a standard length which can be modified by the user. The atomizer wicks are pre-use fire cured at around 2000 degrees to ensure any foreign materials are burnt away. Wicks will be used to create vapor which is inhaled so there must be no harmful toxins coming from the wicks at coil temperatures. A vaporizer coil when red hot can reach temperatures of above 500 degrees and the coil wire will fail at around 1200 degrees. The 2000 degree mark is a safety check that there is no decomposition or distortion under high temperatures. If you believe your wicks can meet these standards and you are willing to send samples they should be sent to the following address:

Received the following reply:

Thank you for your reply.

The ceramic wicks we can supply meet your requirements. If you need samples, you need to pay USD250.00/each size for mold charge, we need mold to make wicks. Different sizes wick need different molds, please kindly take notice.if you accept our mold charge, we will supply samples for free.

Looking forward to your reply.

Anyone interested in getting these guys to tool up for mass production of wicks that cost around 3c each?

 

[Elias]

SteveW Im in.... you have a paypal account we can transfer into your account?
if lets say 10 of us do $25 each and we get 10 wicks each as samples thats value...

Ask them how many samples they are willing to make and then we divide it between the guys chipping in for the tooling.

I'd distribute in Australia if no one else jumps in before me

Regards
Elias

Heh I just noticed your in Australia too... LOL

 

[DSmooch]

I'm sure there's Australian guy that might do the job at a honest cost, and the difference is he might do it properly
ordering chinese anything takes a big leap of faith unless ur totally alibaba... lol

edit: sorry if that goes against the flow!
I'm sure there will be a chFc2000 eventually, im just not very found of the idea.
a bit old fashion and reverse stream on my part...

 

[EDO]

Its a 5/6 wrap coil on a ~3mm fishstick with one thread thickness wrap of cheesecloth goodness. Hats off to bluegrasslover or quigs or ?, this solves the issue for me for getting thicker wire to have better coil on ceramic wick coverage. Finally got the vapor density that I was getting with SS mesh. So...2x vapor results here for me.

Its only been about 4 days (10mls) and its gunkin up a bit, I'll hit that bridge shortly on cleaning. Not sure how I am gonna cross it...

I know you set up your coils using a drill bit and that is smart. When I was trying out the cotton/ssmesh hybrid wicks I used the drill bit to set up the coils so I could take out the wick easily for daily maintenance . I was going through 8ml of liquid a day and it would gunk up fast and get funky if I didn't clean out the cotton every day. I would pull the wick out and just roll the wick in a paper towel...it would remove about 90 percent of the gunk of the cotton. IT was easier than rinsing the hybrid wick under water. Every three four days I would replace the cotton.

The way RIP Trippers showed how to rap these wicks is just plain bad as all the people who are using his method will find out soon enough (if the ceramic hybrid wicks are anything like the mesh hybrid wicks). He basically locks the cotton in , so the initial vape will be great but it will get funky fast and there is no way to clean the cotton.

 

[Stringer63]

and theres no doubt that your wick is broken in, thats good for i believe that your wick needs a couple of days before adding some wattage. did you order any 28g? or do you have some already? i like the 30 for resistances between 1.1 to 1.3 ish (1.3 is the highest resistances that i vape at,period) i also like the 28 &29 g for this as well. anything under these numbers i do not use the 30g at all, so i am sorry if i made you get the 30g, for i never actually use 30g with my mechanical mods. the only time i use 30g is with the provari v-2 at resistances between 1.1 to 1.3 with fairly small diameter wicks. example, when using the 3/32 ceramic wick in the aga i used the 30g wire, i was able to get a 4/5 wrap with this. i didnt use the 28g wire for this because i would of needed to make more wraps on the wick, it might of taken like 6 wraps to obtain this resistance, because of the distance i had to work with, this wasnt feesable. whenever possible i like a 3/4 wrap to a 4/5 wrap, i just like these numbers as a base. i use different wires to obtain these wraps in accordaince to my resistances. thats why i use 28/29/30 g wires. so now if you only have 30 wire, and use this on your mechanical mod, then you will have to do a 3/4 wrap, anything less then this for 30g might be to intense for the thickness of this wire, also by doing a 4/5 wrap this might be to a resistance to high for the voltage produced by the device. so try the 3/4 wrap and see how it vapes on the ceramic. i havent tried a 3/4 30g on the ceramic yet. i do believe that with the 28g and the mechanical mod you will get better results. sorry to ramble on.

No problem Divrr. Gonna give the 30g a try to see how it goes with the telescope. A spool of 28g will be on order soon.

Also, after 4 full days of heavy chain vaping on the diy fishstick in the aga-t, I finally started to get some coil buildup with my diy waffle juice. I did a dry burn expecting that I could burn off the cotton residue and be left with a clean coil on the well broken in wick. What it left me with looked to be a coil a little too loose to maintain the vapor production. Not a problem though as I simply pulled the wick, torched and re-coiled with new cheesecloth thread and wire - less than 10 minutes. Back in the saddle again and going strong. 4 days of clean, trouble free vaping between maintenance - I'll take that with no complaints. Just received my new aga-t+ to try on the telescope with 30g coming in a couple of days.