Looking at my AGA-T+ here, I'm thinking you could drill out a new wick hole below the silica post, and use that post as a second ground connection. Then you would have two 3/32 wicks on the same side of the atty for proper wicking as you tilt. What do you guys think?
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sounds pretty good, but for me, tbh i dont think i can handle much more vapor then what the single one is pushing out right now, now if it gave more flavor, then im interested. but i do think it would be a cool experiment
very true. now unfortunatly they are discontinuing the 3/32 wicks, to be replaced by a 7/64th size. this wont matter for those who make their own, but from what i have heard the fc-2000 will not be making any more.
i would like to see premade ceramic wicks where the wire was embedded into the material
Use a broken one, it's only a test and all the wick has to do is have a tight coil wrapped around it. I still use this one
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that would be neat. they would need to have a variety of different resistances to meet the needs of different mods and attys. you think there expensive now, i bet they would cost double then what they are now, and if one were to break one of those, that would definatly hurt, but great idea non the less
Ok..this is really for true geeks. I did the calculation for watt density to compare relative wire temp for the shorter lower ohm coil on the 3/32" ceramic (1.4 ohms) vs the longer slightly higher ohm coil on the 1/8" ceramic (1.6 ohms). Both 30g.
Without getting into all the math... the lower ohm coil is running about 10% greater watt density and the amp draw is only ~ 5% more. To compare apples to apples, I decreases power in 3/32" coil to get the equivalent watt density to the 1/8". Basically going from ~12 watts to ~10.5 watts on the 3/32".
The 3/32" still vaped better.
So I think we are back to heat sink effect. The 3/32" is just more energy efficient. That and bit more amp draw make it more responsive as well.
Without getting into all the math... the lower ohm coil is running about 10% greater watt density and the amp draw is only ~ 5% more. To compare apples to apples, I decreases power in 3/32" coil to get the equivalent watt density to the 1/8". Basically going from ~12 watts to ~10.5 watts on the 3/32".
The 3/32" still vaped better.
So I think we are back to heat sink effect. The 3/32" is just more energy efficient. That and bit more amp draw make it more responsive as well.
what took you so long, i made those calculations an hour ago. not.
lol...
Yes correct, but that leads to the next question on the effect of thermal transfer co-efficient of the ceramic and relative mass of the different wick thicknesses...that math is above my pay-grade. I'll leave that calc to vapdivrr.
Use a broken one, it's only a test and all the wick has to do is have a tight coil wrapped around it. I still use this one
Yeah, you're right, it will probably be my next experiment if I'm not happy once I play around with the AC9 clone and 1/8 wicks.
The heat transfer coefficient, in thermodynamics and in mechanical and chemical engineering, is used in calculating the heat transfer, typically by convection or phase transition between a fluid and a solid:
Checked out the LN2. It is $10 per kg and not regulated. Just need to rock up with a decent stainless thermos and they will sell it to anyone. I will experiment once the wicks arrive.
leave you guys alone for a few hours and your talking about temperature coefficient
One thing I want to say and that is by using a mechanical mod the heating of the coil comes down to the battery.
Firstly a little history on battery technologies
Lithium Ion batteries, most common, used almost everywhere you can think, no memory effect, some recover from low voltage
Lithium Polymer, radio controlled toys, electric screw drivers high current devices die if dropping below low voltage threshold
The Lithium Ion will have a short burst of high current, however it is not stated on the batteries and you need to see the data sheets from manufacturers to get the exact ratings
Lithium Polymer have a very high current and is stated in C rating on each battery
lipo (Lithium Polymer) batteries lets say you have a 1000mah 20c battery, that means the storage capacity is 1 Amp for an hour. The 20c means that it can discharge as high as 20 amps continuously. (some batteries can vary but it will be stated)
lib (Lithium Ion Battery) lets say you have a 1000mah battery, that also means 1 amp for an hour, the instant discharge is varied but is also dangerous at prolonged periods, the safe amount is 1A continuous anything higher should be for a few seconds and the rest period generally should be 15x the high discharge period for safety if not more.
This is a problem with our mechanical mods and pushing below the 1 ohm barrier.
lets say a fresh battery 4.2v and a 1 ohm coil
now technically the instant you hit that button you have a current of 4.2 amps which is 4x the stated battery capacity
some batteries have protection and different types, some short circuit, some current limiting.
ever wonder why changing mods or changing batteries provides a different vapor ? the above all plays a role
Now people have been pushing 6 - 7 ohms and thats a whopping 7 amps and for some of these little batteries there is no way it can deliver the current needed.
So being an electrical engineer, I say dont go below the 0.8 ohms it's a little too risky with lithium ion batteries.
There are lithium polymer batteries available in sizes to suit us but we need to have lipo chargers
Now dont quote me on all the details above, I am going by memory.... any corrections welcome
Regards
Elias
One thing I want to say and that is by using a mechanical mod the heating of the coil comes down to the battery.
Firstly a little history on battery technologies
Lithium Ion batteries, most common, used almost everywhere you can think, no memory effect, some recover from low voltage
Lithium Polymer, radio controlled toys, electric screw drivers high current devices die if dropping below low voltage threshold
The Lithium Ion will have a short burst of high current, however it is not stated on the batteries and you need to see the data sheets from manufacturers to get the exact ratings
Lithium Polymer have a very high current and is stated in C rating on each battery
lipo (Lithium Polymer) batteries lets say you have a 1000mah 20c battery, that means the storage capacity is 1 Amp for an hour. The 20c means that it can discharge as high as 20 amps continuously. (some batteries can vary but it will be stated)
lib (Lithium Ion Battery) lets say you have a 1000mah battery, that also means 1 amp for an hour, the instant discharge is varied but is also dangerous at prolonged periods, the safe amount is 1A continuous anything higher should be for a few seconds and the rest period generally should be 15x the high discharge period for safety if not more.
This is a problem with our mechanical mods and pushing below the 1 ohm barrier.
lets say a fresh battery 4.2v and a 1 ohm coil
now technically the instant you hit that button you have a current of 4.2 amps which is 4x the stated battery capacity
some batteries have protection and different types, some short circuit, some current limiting.
ever wonder why changing mods or changing batteries provides a different vapor ? the above all plays a role
Now people have been pushing 6 - 7 ohms and thats a whopping 7 amps and for some of these little batteries there is no way it can deliver the current needed.
So being an electrical engineer, I say dont go below the 0.8 ohms it's a little too risky with lithium ion batteries.
There are lithium polymer batteries available in sizes to suit us but we need to have lipo chargers
Now dont quote me on all the details above, I am going by memory.... any corrections welcome
Regards
Elias
now I'm scared. In fact I've always been since I heard about that guy in Florida that lost half his face on a faulty battery...
Elias, what about LI-Mn do they expose the same dangers? ( they say "safe chemistry", it sounds reassuring...)
Elias, what about LI-Mn do they expose the same dangers? ( they say "safe chemistry", it sounds reassuring...)
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I think LiMn(IMR battery) won't explode if short circuit but will getting extremely hot, unless you use wrong charger...
Here a crazy shorting 2 different IMR batteries, AW IMR18650 and Panasonic CGR18650CH...
Here a crazy shorting 2 different IMR batteries, AW IMR18650 and Panasonic CGR18650CH...
Thanks for the update. I knew there had to be a reason for that bushing...I thought it might be made of some non-conductive materiel to work better with SS wicks. Sounds like this puppy was designed to be tinkered with...I like that
Almost 5mm wick hole you say? That would give you a pretty sturdy ceramic wick, and you could probably put enough tension on the coil wire to really get it to "bite" into the ceramic without snapping. That could also open up even more possibilities of building a horizontal internal coil along the lines of Dan's experiments... Yepper... lots of potential configurations.
Now if the damn Postman would just deliver the thing.......
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