helloworld, scratch that last question for i can see from the pic, how much room there is. thanks
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Your question is clear, my head is not right now.
I have a couple of SS wicks with ribbon and a couple with round, but I dont have two of the same attys, one with ribbon and one with round, so it tough to compare. But overall the ribbon feel slightly smoother and more even. When I do the head to head tomorrow, 30g round vs .5 ribbon on AGAs with EHW Ceramic wicks, I'll post notes.....
This pic will show how much room is left with a 9/64 wick hole. Not much on the AGA-T2.
I think 3.5 is needed for 1/8 CFs to leave room for juice to get up the sides.
I did not expect such a huge difference from ceramics. Truly amazing stuff, Steve, truly amazing. I gotta cut my nic back a bit more. 8mgs now, will try 6mg see how that goes.The flavor is great isn't it
Thx Vapdivrr.
Truly awesome results. It's a turning point.
Sorry, 9/64 ... since it seems 1/8 wicks are going to be a standard at least for now, I wanted just a little more but not so much that the wick bangs around the wick hole. So I had this all laid out long before I placed any orders. Lotsa waiting on stuff, shop, etc.
But YES, I'd love to go a half and inch or more ... lol
It's loose, you can wiggle it, but no bounce-about play. I think it's the perfect size, as outside wick liquid can be seen right down into the top of the wick hole, and so it's also making it up the sides. Today's results made all the efforts so worth it, no regrets, and it cost me quite the pretty penny and tons of time. (Got hosed for exchange rates and steep shipping costs)
Ceramics are definitely the pinnacle of vaping.
On another note, I also just got my first mechanical, cheap Lavafire type of $30 deal, but works great. Managed to get 220mm x 37mm - 500 stainless into the 4mm wick hole and it's a real locomotive, 27ga ... it'd make any nic-addicted elephant herd happy ... lol. Great vape, will install fishy stones into it at some point too.
One of my AGA-T2s is like yours (Orange seals), the other 2 are newer ones which have a wider clear silicone seal and should not be drilled beyond 9/64. The one in your picture will go, if the envelope is pushed, to 4.2mm. My machinist precision measured all that. Cost me $40 to have 3 AGA-T2s milled out, every penny worth it.
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yea, be carefull with that thing. i actually snapped the wick cuz i put it too tight in my scribe handle. i do want the 1/8th ones. i just this morning went to rewrap the first coil/wick.. dropped it, and it broke in half. there goes 18 bucks. im also gonna get a provari. never found the vamo comfortable because my hands are thing and its too thin to hold comfortably for me.
so you know that my aga has orange seals from my video? and you believe that this one should be able to go to at least 4 mm? great planning bro.
sorry i misread the post, you were talking about someone elses aga.
So this morning I went to swap out the .8mm flat kanthal to re-wrap with 30g round so I could do a comparison to 30g equivalent flat kanthal.
As I pulled the .8mm out of the atty, the neg side wire caught on the positive post and that sucker sprung hard and went across the table. I was trying to reach for it as I watched it fall the floor. It was like a slow motion film with me saying "Noooooooo......". It broke in two. (I feel your pain..deadperfect)
Fortunately, it was still long enough to re-wrap, its just gonna be short in the tank. So I did a EHW coil with the 30g round. It was 2x easier to do than with ribbon, even with my fingers closer to the flame. Anyway, got it wrapped and its in the AGA T2 with clear-orings (which by the way is far inferior to the original).
So I am vaping double fisted on the same juice. Provari with AGA T2- 30g round at 1.6 ohms ~12 watts in one hand and Sigelie AGA T - 30g ribbon at 1.6 ohms at 12 watts in the other.
Results: Very very similar, right now I give the edge to the ribbon wire, slightly smoother and just a bit more vapor. But the newer 30g round coil has only seen ~2ml vaped on it so things may change. Dont get me wrong, the 30g round wire is vaping better right out of the gate than most of my SS setups.
That and the 2 minutes it took to hot wrap, its still is a winner.
As I pulled the .8mm out of the atty, the neg side wire caught on the positive post and that sucker sprung hard and went across the table. I was trying to reach for it as I watched it fall the floor. It was like a slow motion film with me saying "Noooooooo......". It broke in two. (I feel your pain..deadperfect)
Fortunately, it was still long enough to re-wrap, its just gonna be short in the tank. So I did a EHW coil with the 30g round. It was 2x easier to do than with ribbon, even with my fingers closer to the flame. Anyway, got it wrapped and its in the AGA T2 with clear-orings (which by the way is far inferior to the original).
So I am vaping double fisted on the same juice. Provari with AGA T2- 30g round at 1.6 ohms ~12 watts in one hand and Sigelie AGA T - 30g ribbon at 1.6 ohms at 12 watts in the other.
Results: Very very similar, right now I give the edge to the ribbon wire, slightly smoother and just a bit more vapor. But the newer 30g round coil has only seen ~2ml vaped on it so things may change. Dont get me wrong, the 30g round wire is vaping better right out of the gate than most of my SS setups.
That and the 2 minutes it took to hot wrap, its still is a winner.
very cool, thanks for the comparisons. i do think that even with an ehw wick, it does get slightly better after a bit. man i was cracking up thinking about that flying coil
I don't know, man, I'm skeptical that the original T2 can be pushed over 4mm, but I'm not a machinist by trade. The new AGA configuration with the wide silicone seal was a major mistake, well at least for modders. I seriously can't see going over 1/8 on those, but if you were successful, that's pretty awesome. I don't have one, but just looking at the stock hole in pics, it sure looks like an impossible task to go 9/64 without having to get a thinner tank and change seals. There is a co-op going on right now where the host actually had the supplier build all of the AGA-T2s back to original design, plus drill the holes to 1/8. Pretty cool that a supplier would do that. Wish I would have ordered a couple more, but I have 2 T2s and an original T going right now as it is. I think that once the knurls are machined off of the original Ts, that was the best design, although the tank that came with those is too thick. I actually had to slightly channel the tank to allow enough room for a 1/8 wick. It didn't turn out bad. I have an AC9 clone coming. Can't wait to see what is up with that one.
Noooooooooo... haha! I can relate man. Bummer. I believe my slow motion word started with an F though. I can best that though. Yesterday I was slicing blanks out of a bubbler and I fumbled two of them in a row. Hit the floor and split in half lickety-split. Didn't even touch the grinder. I was 'gutted' as Todd would put it. LOL
I failed to note what type of AGA-T you had in your video, as I didn't know at the time that several versions existed. 4.2mm (21/128) is the max possible without cutting into either the post's threads or the orange o-ring's seat on the underside of the wick hole plate.
Pic attached 4mm hole in AGA-T2 with massive SS wick.
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It was done with the T2s that came with the orange seals, see pic above. But I don't know about the "original" AGA.
In my view it is a far better design to keep it leak-proof as the newer version's silicone seals seat nicely into the top and bottom glass tanks, but not so great for cutting larger wick holes. It can be done, but there is increased risk of leakage. Doing the newer ones at 9/64, any wick barely scrapes it's way past the sides of the silicone seals. Even with 9/64 I have to leave the fill screw off for air intake.
Yup, and it worked out really well, very happy with the results.
Yes, looking at it sure seems that way, but precision measured those specs I mentioned do work.
Great if it doesn't cost you anything. Personally I wanted to get the best vape possible, and in view of the fact many of us spent thousands on PVs and what not, $40 for coring out 3 AGA-T2s is nothing.
I never had the original.
Good luck with all that.
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AGA-T This is the plain old T.
AGA-T+/T2 Original Version. They moved the wick hole closer to the positive post.
Here is the new revision of the T+/T2 with the silicone top hat seals. The new one is on the left and the old version is on the right. They also made the wick hole a tiny bit bigger than the first version.
Here is a link to more pictures of the differences between the old T+ and the new version.
http://s240.beta.photobucket.com/user/KnightStalkerUK/library/Aga-T2%20Differences
AGA-T+/T2 Original Version. They moved the wick hole closer to the positive post.
Here is the new revision of the T+/T2 with the silicone top hat seals. The new one is on the left and the old version is on the right. They also made the wick hole a tiny bit bigger than the first version.
Here is a link to more pictures of the differences between the old T+ and the new version.
http://s240.beta.photobucket.com/user/KnightStalkerUK/library/Aga-T2%20Differences
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Ok, what I would like you to do is pull that thing apart right now so you can take a pic of the underside of the top cap, OK? (kidding). Whenever you get the chance. Personally speaking, I have removed the tall ground post on all of mine, and have dual wick holes running on two of them. Allows for some great wicking with the ceramics, and SS for that matter. Yes, I still do run SS now and again, but not often. usually when I feel the need to run a SS U-wick setup.
And I agree, spending $40 to have them bored out professionally, plus the original cost involved for these things, is still a total steal compared to the cost of some of the higher end devices out there. Although, it is totally gratifying when you can mod something like this yourself, and it makes a huge difference with functionality.
Nice pics and history. As you can see, they decided to shorten the top cap and center post from the original T, which I think is yet another 'brilliant' idea. NOT. LOL. Their designers should be flogged.
As far as the new seal design goes, I have never had an issue with leakage on the earlier revs. Can anyone say that they have? One nice change is the stock Pyrex glass tanks. I guess we will see what the 'T3' will be like.
so i have the original one with orange o-ring and rough knurling. do you believe that this version gives the best possibility for the largest drill out? or is the newer versions better to achieve a bigger bore?
Yes, in retrospect I should have done that before I re-assembled it. I didn't think I would be posting a pic of it here. The machine shop left gear oil all over these wickplates and was a pure joy to clean up with degreasers and alcohol baths ... lol
I was also considering that route at some point.
Yup, so true.
Mine don't have any knurling, so you have yet another, possibly earlier version and I have no clue what you can do with that. A local machine shop can advise you what they can do.
If you will be buying some AGA-T2s, ask the vendor if they have the T2s with the orange seal in stock. You may have to ask around a bit.
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Tried my hand with the Elias hot wrap. First attempt, whoops too hot, melted the kanthal. Second attempt I go the hang of it, but when it cooled it was still loose. I could see too much daylight between the coil and stone. Third attempt looked better, but when I 'lit it up' once installed in the atty I could see it was still a tiny bit loose. I was able to gently nudge the coils while it was glowing. Gotta try again to see if I can get one of the 'snug/tight wraps' without any air gaps. I was pleased about how much 'pressure' you could actually put to the wick while winding the hot wire.
So, when you are doing this - are you holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it? Or twisting/rolling the stone and feeding the wire into it? I was holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it. I wondering if I do it the other way, if I'll get a tighter coil when it cools.
So, when you are doing this - are you holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it? Or twisting/rolling the stone and feeding the wire into it? I was holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it. I wondering if I do it the other way, if I'll get a tighter coil when it cools.
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