fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

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vapdivrr

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i am asking because right now i have a 3/32 wick in, which is awesome. it is just as good if not better then any of my 1/8 wicks in my did and ac-9. most likely it is because of the loose fit. with my 1/8 wicks in my other devices there isnt quite as much space between wick and wick hole. now from what i have heard the 3/32 wicks will be discontinued, to be replaced by a 7/64 size, so what i might do in my aga is to drill out to 1/8 and use the 7/64 size. this might give the same distance between wick and wick hole as what i currently have.
 

Lhartman89

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so i have the original one with orange o-ring and rough knurling. do you believe that this version gives the best possibility for the largest drill out? or is the newer versions better to achieve a bigger bore?

This shows the wick hole on the original T and the T+/2. The T+/2 has it closer to the positive post.

2.jpg
 

vapdivrr

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Tried my hand with the Elias hot wrap. First attempt, whoops too hot, melted the kanthal. Second attempt I go the hang of it, but when it cooled it was still loose. I could see too much daylight between the coil and stone. Third attempt looked better, but when I 'lit it up' once installed in the atty I could see it was still a tiny bit loose. I was able to gently nudge the coils while it was glowing. Gotta try again to see if I can get one of the 'snug/tight wraps' without any air gaps. I was pleased about how much 'pressure' you could actually put to the wick while winding the hot wire.

So, when you are doing this - are you holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it? Or twisting/rolling the stone and feeding the wire into it? I was holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it. I wondering if I do it the other way, if I'll get a tighter coil when it cools.

i was slightly twisting the wick and keeping my hand steady, but on occasion had to make the wrap with right hand. so for me it was a little of both.
 

Lhartman89

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Tried my hand with the Elias hot wrap. First attempt, whoops too hot, melted the kanthal. Second attempt I go the hang of it, but when it cooled it was still loose. I could see too much daylight between the coil and stone. Third attempt looked better, but when I 'lit it up' once installed in the atty I could see it was still a tiny bit loose. I was able to gently nudge the coils while it was glowing. Gotta try again to see if I can get one of the 'snug/tight wraps' without any air gaps. I was pleased about how much 'pressure' you could actually put to the wick while winding the hot wire.

So, when you are doing this - are you holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it? Or twisting/rolling the stone and feeding the wire into it? I was holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it. I wondering if I do it the other way, if I'll get a tighter coil when it cools.

You should give this a shot.



You can read about it here.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-next-big-thing-porous-ceramic-wicks-65.html

And here

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-next-big-thing-porous-ceramic-wicks-64.html

You will get something like this afterwards.

I present the perfect coil :)

IMG_0778_zps0b0d9bb8.jpg


Dan
 
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vapdivrr

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TBinAZ

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i am asking because right now i have a 3/32 wick in, which is awesome. it is just as good if not better then any of my 1/8 wicks in my did and ac-9. most likely it is because of the loose fit. with my 1/8 wicks in my other devices there isnt quite as much space between wick and wick hole. now from what i have heard the 3/32 wicks will be discontinued, to be replaced by a 7/64 size, so what i might do in my aga is to drill out to 1/8 and use the 7/64 size. this might give the same distance between wick and wick hole as what i currently have.

Yes, that's the way to go. With the design of the original T you need to offset the drill bit slightly inboard to the center tube and slightly closer to the neg screw. It's pretty tedious to do with a conventional drill press, but is doable. If you find a compatible tank that is thinner than the original plastic one, it makes the job a lot easier. Like I mentioned, I opted to groove the plastic tank so it would allow for the largest diameter wick without causing stress on the wick, but still filled the hole correctly.
 

TBinAZ

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Tried my hand with the Elias hot wrap. First attempt, whoops too hot, melted the kanthal. Second attempt I go the hang of it, but when it cooled it was still loose. I could see too much daylight between the coil and stone. Third attempt looked better, but when I 'lit it up' once installed in the atty I could see it was still a tiny bit loose. I was able to gently nudge the coils while it was glowing. Gotta try again to see if I can get one of the 'snug/tight wraps' without any air gaps. I was pleased about how much 'pressure' you could actually put to the wick while winding the hot wire.

So, when you are doing this - are you holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it? Or twisting/rolling the stone and feeding the wire into it? I was holding the stone steady and wrapping the wire around it. I wondering if I do it the other way, if I'll get a tighter coil when it cools.

What gauge wire are you using, Mike? 30?
 

pdib

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I don't know, man, I'm skeptical that the original T2 can be pushed over 4mm, but I'm not a machinist by trade. The new AGA configuration with the wide silicone seal was a major mistake, well at least for modders. I seriously can't see going over 1/8 on those, but if you were successful, that's pretty awesome. I don't have one, but just looking at the stock hole in pics, it sure looks like an impossible task to go 9/64 without having to get a thinner tank and change seals. There is a co-op going on right now where the host actually had the supplier build all of the AGA-T2s back to original design, plus drill the holes to 1/8. Pretty cool that a supplier would do that. Wish I would have ordered a couple more, but I have 2 T2s and an original T going right now as it is. I think that once the knurls are machined off of the original Ts, that was the best design, although the tank that came with those is too thick. I actually had to slightly channel the tank to allow enough room for a 1/8 wick. It didn't turn out bad. I have an AC9 clone coming. Can't wait to see what is up with that one.


So, two things, three things;
1: I have 3 AGAs, they all vary as to how much you can drill (even within the same batch-style). I've broken into the center hole @ 1/8", but it still works just fine. I've gotten as big as 5/32" on another. At that size, even though the center hole is intact, the thin remainder between the two holes was bulging toward the center. Short version: drill your own AGA in steps of 1/64", and don't drill yours based on what someone else managed to get out of theirs.
2: Pick your hole, or drill a new one. If you don't use a fill screw, I've had where that hole is further from the center than the original wick hole. (If you use your fill screw, you can always substitute a silicone plug in the old wick hole.) Also, you can drill out where the neg. post is, if that happens to be situated better, etc.
3: My recent batch, crappy AGA came from Hoosiervapes. When I communicated with them, they quickly got in contact with manufacturer and changed their order to "original specifications / like the first batch" (orange o-ring version). They are now sold out and awaiting that order. Watch there for the kind we like. I asked her to include this info in the product specs.; but one can always ask them when the new ones come in, if its not clear.
 

Hello World

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Short version: drill your own AGA in steps of 1/64", and don't drill yours based on what someone else managed to get out of theirs.
Neither of the AGA-T2s I have, had any room to drill any closer toward the center post without potentially cutting into the threads, I wouldn't risk it, the machine shop concurred. The available space was outward only. I had both versions from HoosierVapors too, so I know what they sell. That's why I had a professional machine shop do it for me because they had a mill to cut that.

DSCN5408.jpg

* Ignore pics of the PVs, I can't figure out how to get rid of them out of this post, there are no tags.
 

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gdeal

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TBinAZ

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Hey Guys.

Just wanted to share a short video on how I roll my Elias Hot Wrap. I was not going for perfection, I just wanted to show my technique. Its very straight forward. Hope it helps.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6849/r4awtdzgqpocyyejhjkgoh.mp4

Edit: Just realize the video ended too quickly, here is a high res of the final product.

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/5364/quickewh30g.jpg

You're killin me, gdeal. Maybe it's just me, but it won't play. Access issue maybe?
 

zygote

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ALL RIIIIIGHT! I got my wicks (1/8), first E.H.W. (using a natural gas stove), i wrapped a nice 4 wrap 28g, placed the wick in the zen~ Ti mini and fired.............beautiful, no hot spots but i noticed a small gap on one of the wraps, what do i do, i tried to tighten the dam thing while it was in the device and....... SNAP.

2nd wrap came out beautiful, placed the wick in the device, primed w/a little juice and fired, everything is working (gatta try to hit this thing) grabed the cap and twistted in on........ SNAP. Dam wick was 3mm higher than the top post.

I am leaving the broken wick in place for now as it is still wicking and am going to see if it breaks in a little better, the flavor is def. cleaner than w/the S.S. for sure. Another attempt will be made at another time, i will get a whole wick in this thing yet.

Yea i am blowin some clouds.
 
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vapdivrr

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ALL RIIIIIGHT! I got my wicks (1/8), first E.H.W. (using a natural gas stove), i wrapped a nice 4 wrap 28g, placed the wick in the zen~ Ti mini and fired.............beautiful, no hot spots but i noticed a small gap on one of the wraps, what do i do, i tried to tighten the dam thing while it was in the device and....... SNAP.

2nd wrap came out beautiful, placed the wick in the device, primed w/a little juice and fired, everything is working (gatta try to hit this thing) grabed the cap and twistted in on........ SNAP. Dam wick was 3mm higher than the top post.

I am leaving the broken wick in place for now as it is still wicking and am going to see if it breaks in a little better, the flavor is def. cleaner than w/the S.S. for sure. Another attempt will be made at another time, i will get a whole wick in this thing yet.

i know there have been alot of people who have broke the wicks with the zap attys because the standard wicks are to long . litterally with those attys you have to cut off part of the wick. so i guess the mini zen is the same. so the mini zen has a 1/8 wick hole? i know the zap's have a much smaller hole.
 

NamVet68

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OK...since it seems that its show & tell; Here's my project for today;

I drilled out the wick hole on an old DID clone to 1/8 inch & made a fishstick for it. I actually had more room to drill on this little puppy than I did for my AGA-T2. The 1/8 hole in the AGA almost cut into the center post well (the separation between the two actually fell out when I was cleaning it up...but it went back together OK).

Anyway - the DUD worked out well. I used the Elias Hot Wrap method for the coils (I haven't built one of Dan's Electrical Hot Wrap setups yet. but I plan to)

Fishstick.jpg

Just needs a little fine tuning, but no real hot-spots. 30Ga-A1 Kanthal ...it hit my target Ohms rating first shot (1.5 Ohms)
FishstickGlow.jpg

Flavors are still a little muted, but at least it didn't taste like I was vaping concrete the first few toots. The fishstick in the AGA-T2 took a little more than a tankful of Boba's to really start to shine (it's now better than any Stainless wick I ever had already), so I'm looking forward to seeing how this little guy works in a few days. It's already starting to wick better after an hour or so of use.

The more of these I do, the easier it gets. :)
 
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Hello World

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SNAP. Dam wick was 3mm higher than the top post.
Yeah, needs to be cut down a touch for the ZAP ... my first one broke the same way too. The FC-2000 height is perfect for the AGA-T2, but in any case it's always a good policy to remove the cap's o-rings to check the clearance before snapping on the cap.

so the mini zen has a 1/8 wick hole? i know the zap's have a much smaller hole.
1/8 CF-2000 is too tight for the ZAP, but can be forced in a bit with high risk of breakage. Although the ZAP has next to no room for drilling the wick hole, I'm sure it could be widened a hair somehow. Again, I don't think I would risk it. Hearing that 7/64 ceramic wicks will be released, they'd work perfect, and I'll order some.
 
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