Fender0942 & bstedh's Scubagenv3 CO-OP discussion

[jimho]

Correct O-ring size and part numbers.

#015 Red Silicone O-ring (9/16" ID x 11/16" OD) for the main body. McMaster-Carr Part # 9396K21

#009 Red Silicone O-ring (7/32" ID x 11/32" OD) for the drip tip. McMaster-Carr Part # 9396K14

That's what I meant ;-)

here's the parts I already have from McMaster-Carr
- Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1 Screw Size, 3.2mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100
Part #93475A154

-Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1.6 Screw Size, 4mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100-
Part #93475A190

- Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1.2 Screw Size, 3.8mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100 -
Part #93475A165


- Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Nut M1.6 Size, .35mm Pitch, 3.2mm Width, 1.3mm Height, Packs of 25 -
Part #91828A430

-Nylon 6/6 Unthreaded Shldr Spacer W/Flange Long Barrel, #2 Screw Size, .375" Length, Packs of 100 -
Part #91145A118

-Nylon 6/6 Unthreaded Shldr Spacer W/Flange Long Barrel, #2 Screw Size, .125" Length, Packs of 100 -
Part #91145A110


-Silicone O-Ring AS568A Dash Number 009, Packs of 100 -
Part #9396K14

-Silicone O-Ring AS568A Dash Number 015, Packs of 100
Part #9396K21



In addtion, I'm including springs and spare roll springs from mjmetz...
Should have those some time next week.

I have enough to make 25 sets and will make 19 or 20 available FCFS - will be $4 - $5 each pack + shipping ..... I may order another set of o-rings to give 8 of the #15's in each pack so everyone has spares ....

 

[PKZap27]

I pre-build my spring post and squeeze the end of the nail a little bit with a pair of neddle nose pliers so bottom washer won't slip off.


Pre assembled spring posts.

Picture of ScubaGenV3's from this Co-Op.

Pictures of ScubaGenV3 from Dan's Co-Op.

 

[Krythis]

PK are those the washers and nuts listed in Jimbo's post?

 

[PKZap27]

PK are those the washers and nuts listed in Jimbo's post?

..........
Yes

 

[PKZap27]

The nails that are included in the second ScubaGenV3 Co-Op Kit are different and have a smaller head on them. I'm not sure how they will work with the M1.6 washer, as I have not used or tested this other nail, also this nail is thinner and longer and will bend easier.

The nails for the spring posts that where included with the first ScubaGenV3 Co-Op, and what Dan recommends, and what I use in my build, is a "Wire Nail, Bright, 1/2" #19 2 oz."

I ordered my nails from the link above and I though I was getting one small 2 oz plastic package of nails. What they sent me was a box with ten of the small 2 oz platic packages in it.

I pre-build my spring post and squeeze the end of the nail a little bit with a pair of neddle nose pliers so the bottom washer won't slip off.

The smallest M1 washer that fits on the bottom of the nail may need a little push to get it on depending on the nail.

 

[Krythis]

Do you think any of the wire nails on McMaster would fit? They have #18 and #20, no 19. I'm putting in an order for the items Jimbo posted, I'd like to get some nails in that order. I already have the red o-rings, but I'm not too found of my beveling job and I have two more kits to go.

McMaster-Carr

 

[PKZap27]

Do you think any of the wire nails on McMaster would fit? They have #18 and #20, no 19. I'm putting in an order for the items Jimbo posted, I'd like to get some nails in that order. I already have the red o-rings, but I'm not too found of my beveling job and I have two more kits to go.

McMaster-Carr

The #18 nail is too big and won't work.

The #20 nail is what is included with the second Co-Op kit.

 

[rob5482]

Pk that is an awsome looking build!!! Jim let me know when you get all the parts together ill buy 2 or 3 from you.

 

[bstedh]

For anyone who is having continuous burnt taste no matter what you do...

It could be scorched juice. I fiddled too much and burnt juice flowed back down and contaminated the entire tank. I couldn't figure out why no matter what I did or how good I got the coil it tasted burnt. I finally took some juice out of the tank and put it in a carto - sure enough, burnt taste...

The moral of the story is that if you play with the coil too much with a tank full of juice you can ruin that juice =[

Now I drip on the the coil until i get it to where I like it instead of filling the tank.

 

[SmaBob]

That's what I meant ;-)

here's the parts I already have from McMaster-Carr
- Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1 Screw Size, 3.2mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100
Part #93475A154

-Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1.6 Screw Size, 4mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100-
Part #93475A190

- Metric DIN 125 18-8 SS Flat Washer M1.2 Screw Size, 3.8mm OD, 0.25mm-0.35mm Thick, Packs of 100 -
Part #93475A165


- Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Nut M1.6 Size, .35mm Pitch, 3.2mm Width, 1.3mm Height, Packs of 25 -
Part #91828A430

-Nylon 6/6 Unthreaded Shldr Spacer W/Flange Long Barrel, #2 Screw Size, .375" Length, Packs of 100 -
Part #91145A118

-Nylon 6/6 Unthreaded Shldr Spacer W/Flange Long Barrel, #2 Screw Size, .125" Length, Packs of 100 -
Part #91145A110


-Silicone O-Ring AS568A Dash Number 009, Packs of 100 -
Part #9396K14

-Silicone O-Ring AS568A Dash Number 015, Packs of 100
Part #9396K21



In addtion, I'm including springs and spare roll springs from mjmetz...
Should have those some time next week.

I have enough to make 25 sets and will make 19 or 20 available FCFS - will be $4 - $5 each pack + shipping ..... I may order another set of o-rings to give 8 of the #15's in each pack so everyone has spares ....

I would like a set. Please let me know
Bob

 

[dragon_ch]

jimho and PKZap27....I will appreciate it very much if either one of you can sell me 2 or 3 complete sets. McMaster-Carr will not ship to Asia and I will have lots of problems to build my ScubaGenV3. Just pm me if you are willing....thanks

 

[bstedh]

So is everybody doing good with their SGV3. I have been running one for almost a week straight and playing with two others.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk

 

[Darkreign]

Yeah, so far everything I have had issues with has a solution. I am still trying to perfect the air adjustment and oxidation of the SS. For now I am using the ceramic sleeve that was included while I practice the heating/quenching process on the SS mesh. It seems like no matter what I do, I get hot spots and shorts.

Another thing I have noticed, my juice starts looking really bad after about 1 1/2 days in the SGV3 and I change it out. Anyone else noticing that?

New on the left, used on the right.

 

[bstedh]

Yeah, so far everything I have had issues with has a solution. I am still trying to perfect the air adjustment and oxidation of the SS. For now I am using the ceramic sleeve that was included while I practice the heating/quenching process on the SS mesh. It seems like no matter what I do, I get hot spots and shorts.

Another thing I have noticed, my juice starts looking really bad after about 1 1/2 days in the SGV3 and I change it out. Anyone else noticing that?

New on the left, used on the right.

I have had that and it seems to be from playing with the coil as you are burning the juice and it is contaminating the tank. I started dripping on the coil with an empty tank until I got the coil working correct. This has reduced my juice contamination significantly. Still get a little from the occasional dry hits due to chain vapping however.

With the SS try just torching it several times and not quenching it. I have had some luck with that and it seems to have reduced the contamination in the tank. I still struggle some with the same issue however. I am going to experiment with using the ceramic in the tank feeding up to a short SS piece for the coil. Also I found some of the stove gasket at a local junk store that sells it by the foot and it looks like the same stuff a lot of people have been using for wick in their attys. I am picking up a couple feet today to test as it is less than $1 a foot and they have two sizes.

The problem that I am having with the ceramic as a wick is that it seems to need a lot of pre-heating to start vaporizing and then is cools off too slowly creating excessive heat. I think I need to un-braid it to make a narrower wick for it to work properly for me.

Also try a wrap or two more of the Kanthal. You may be running too hot. I have to do this as I found mine works better right before my NoEgo cuts off around 3.5Vrms. I just put a new batt in and am getting burnt taste after a couple of hours of great taste.

 

[Krythis]

So is everybody doing good with their SGV3. I have been running one for almost a week straight and playing with two others.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk

I was on hold waiting on new parts. McMaster-Carr boxes just arrived so I'm hoping to start on another kit using the nuts and washers. So far Ive experienced the same issues as many others.

I may need to re-carbonize my wick because I can't seem to find the sweet spot. It's either too close and shorting out or its too far and glowing red. Once everything is working right the coil should not be glowing right? Whether dripped or wicked?

 

[Krythis]

I pre-build my spring post and squeeze the end of the nail a little bit with a pair of neddle nose pliers so bottom washer won't slip off.


Pre assembled spring posts.

Picture of ScubaGenV3's from this Co-Op.

Pictures of ScubaGenV3 from Dan's Co-Op.

Hi PK, I received my McMaster-Carr parts today. Would you mind telling me what parts are where in your pre-assembled post image? I have 3 different washers in addition to the nuts and two different screw insulators and it's hard to see in the image which go where. Thanks

 

[Darkreign]

I have had that and it seems to be from playing with the coil as you are burning the juice and it is contaminating the tank. I started dripping on the coil with an empty tank until I got the coil working correct. This has reduced my juice contamination significantly. Still get a little from the occasional dry hits due to chain vapping however.

With the SS try just torching it several times and not quenching it. I have had some luck with that and it seems to have reduced the contamination in the tank. I still struggle some with the same issue however. I am going to experiment with using the ceramic in the tank feeding up to a short SS piece for the coil. Also I found some of the stove gasket at a local junk store that sells it by the foot and it looks like the same stuff a lot of people have been using for wick in their attys. I am picking up a couple feet today to test as it is less than $1 a foot and they have two sizes.

The problem that I am having with the ceramic as a wick is that it seems to need a lot of pre-heating to start vaporizing and then is cools off too slowly creating excessive heat. I think I need to un-braid it to make a narrower wick for it to work properly for me.

Also try a wrap or two more of the Kanthal. You may be running too hot. I have to do this as I found mine works better right before my NoEgo cuts off around 3.5Vrms. I just put a new batt in and am getting burnt taste after a couple of hours of great taste.

Normally I would agree with the burnt liquid assessment, however this discoloration was from a freshly cleaned, sleeved wick. To be honest, I cant really tell if it has affected the taste, or if I am just being paranoid...

I am getting ready to try another round of torching the SS, I will let you know how that goes. I saw some of the stove gasket at my hardware store, and will get some once I have the funds for it.

I have tried several differnt lengths of Kanthal, going all the way up to 8 wraps. My biggest problem is I cant seem to prevent shorting to the SS so I usually revert back to the ceramic sleeve after a few hours of fiddling... One of these days I will get it right and start dancing around spontaneously...

 

[PKZap27]

Hi PK, I received my McMaster-Carr parts today. Would you mind telling me what parts are where in your pre-assembled post image? I have 3 different washers in addition to the nuts and two different screw insulators and it's hard to see in the image which go where. Thanks

The order that the items are placed on the 1/2" #19 Wire Nail for the spring posts are as follows...

M1.6 washer - Part # 93475A190
M1.6 hex nut - Part # 91828A006
M1.2 washer - Part # 93475A165
Compression Spring - Item # CAR-0206-0580-M
M1 washer - Part # 93475A154

The longer shoulder spacers are used in the wick holes. - 91145A118

The shorter shoulder spacers can be placed on the ends of the wick inside the tank to prevent them from touching the center part of the SS body inside the tank. I used them at first. However, I no longer use them as I've been able to roll a wick now without it touching the SS body inside the tank. - 91145A110


The following part number is for an M16 hex nut not a M1.6 hex nut.

- Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Nut M1.6 Size, .35mm Pitch, 3.2mm Width, 1.3mm Height, Packs of 25 - Part #91828A430

The correct part number for the M1.6 hex nut is Part # 91828A006




Edit to add;

I found/had some 1/8" nylon tubing that I use for the postive spring post insert in lieu of the bic pen tubing.

The markings on the tubing led me to the following wesite.

SK8201-1/8

I know McMaster-Carr sells the same type/size tubing. However, you would have to look for it on their website.

 

[ClayK]

Just got back from Okinawa, I received my package. Quick question, can someone remind me what all was supposed to be in the kit/buy?

 

[bstedh]

Just got back from Okinawa, I received my package. Quick question, can someone remind me what all was supposed to be in the kit/buy?

You should have the following.
Body
Cap
Ce2
Nails
Springs
Roll pin
Wire
Ceramic sleeve
Kantal
O-rings
SS Mesh

All you should need to supply is whatever you are going to use on your terminals to pinch the kanthal. I.e. M1.6 nuts or dremeled sections of a carto center post.

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