Wow, these things are getting popular - glad I grabbed mine from Free-Cigs while I was in the middle of watching Mark Todd's review! I can't wait for it to arrive - I'm a huge fan of the Protank, and this is like that, but bigger and better.
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These Fogger V2 are the best money I've ever spent on a rebuildable. I have two of 'em and the first thing I did was clean them, pull out the wick and coil, recoil with 10 turns of 28 ga K A-1 on a 1/16" form and add cotton wick. Vapor production is fantastic though I do get some gurgling but no leaks. When I re-wick I'll try adding some cotton to the sides of the well to see if it helps with the gurgles. Two thumbs up! 
My coils come out to right at 1.5 ohms and I don't have any trouble firing them with either my SID or Vamo V2.
I have an SVD I will be using mine on. Any RBA should work on it as long as you build coils in the proper resistance range.
You can use the free Android app "Vaper's Toolbox" to help with that.
You can use the free Android app "Vaper's Toolbox" to help with that.
anyone have a problem with the fill screw? mine just falls out. either the hole is too big or the screw is too small. a little teflon tape fixed that though. my first build was a single 3mm wick, worked ok, no flooding but wouldn't hold enough juice. i then used doubled up 3mm silica and cut the top piece off inside of the chamber (make sense?) and it's been a freakin Fogger haha. awesome flavor and vapor production! no flooding, no leaking, no dry hits. i just hope the GB one i have coming went through better quality control!
Guys,
Does anyone have a o-ring size for the chimney/wick in fractional measurements?
My white one snapped taking it off. My Fogger V2 is leaking like a sieve, I got the leak to slow down by using larger wick, and cranking the chimney down tight as possible .... I stopped at the hardware store, and the only o-rings they has were in the faucet section, and the choices were limited. All of them are to thick, and prevents me from seating the pyrex.
ID + OD + Thickness would be great.
And I apologize for not posting pics. Barely enough time between prepping for step-daughters wedding Saturday, and the wifes transmission blowing up on her 06 Saturn VUE forcing us to shop for a new car. I am lucky I had enough time to play with the Fogger 2x now. But I promise as soon as my ship enters into the eye of the storm, I will post some pics of my setup on my SVD.
Thanks for any and all help!
-Dave
Does anyone have a o-ring size for the chimney/wick in fractional measurements?
My white one snapped taking it off. My Fogger V2 is leaking like a sieve, I got the leak to slow down by using larger wick, and cranking the chimney down tight as possible .... I stopped at the hardware store, and the only o-rings they has were in the faucet section, and the choices were limited. All of them are to thick, and prevents me from seating the pyrex.
ID + OD + Thickness would be great.
And I apologize for not posting pics. Barely enough time between prepping for step-daughters wedding Saturday, and the wifes transmission blowing up on her 06 Saturn VUE forcing us to shop for a new car. I am lucky I had enough time to play with the Fogger 2x now. But I promise as soon as my ship enters into the eye of the storm, I will post some pics of my setup on my SVD.
Thanks for any and all help!
-Dave
Mine looks to be about 10mm OD and 1.5mm thickness. But this is from an oring I snapped already. If you are in a pinch..try an oring from a driptrip or just twist up some teflon tape.
my oring broke first time i took it off! my build doesn't need it, no leaks with a single piece of 3mm silica. i use doubled up 3mm silica but, with the top piece trimmed off to keep it inside the chamber, just a single piece sticking out the channels.... trimmed flush 
my oring broke first time i took it off! my build doesn't need it, no leaks with a single piece of 3mm silica. i use doubled up 3mm silica but, with the top piece trimmed off to keep it inside the chamber, just a single piece sticking out the channels.... trimmed flush
I don't have one (yet
), just trying to understand. What if without o-ring is turned upside down?And, how much juice do these hold?
Thanks folks.
my oring broke first time i took it off! my build doesn't need it, no leaks with a single piece of 3mm silica. i use doubled up 3mm silica but, with the top piece trimmed off to keep it inside the chamber, just a single piece sticking out the channels.... trimmed flush
Nelson,
I'll give that a try.
-GoW
leaving the vapor chamber oring off shouldn't effect it being upside down. i wonder, are we even talking about the same oring? maybe i misunderstood. i'm taling about the oring that sits on top of the wicks?I don't have one (yet
And, how much juice do these hold?
Thanks folks.
good show. long as the wick isn't too tight nor too loose it'll work great. but, its a fine line
i found 3mm works best for me in the wick chanels, not to tight not too loose.I'm sure we're not as I have no idea what I'm talking about.
I'll wait until I get mine and see what you're talking about. BUT... since I'm here. What would you think this o-ring you are talking about is there for if not needed? Just extra seal protection?I'm sure we're not as I have no idea what I'm talking about.
Chalk it up to the good idea fairy at the manufacturing plant.
But I believe it is not necessary if the wick being used is in place blocking the channels enough IE; No open spaces.
I think it helps when using smaller wicking material, as BCC's are very dependent on the channel being full to prevent juice from flowing into the atomizer deck freely.
Bear in mind I am not a fluid dynamics engineer, and anything that I am saying is pure theory-crafting and pure conjecture.
GoW
This is a skill you learn to master if you rebuild BCC's like the Protank, Evod, etc. Too much and dry hits, too little and flood city ... it truly is an art form.
Yes, and one I am currently experiencing a LOT of frustrations with. What I don't understand is this: I can take a brand new T3S or EVOD head, remove one "extra" wick (leaving just the coil plus one of those "flavor" wicks) and everything is dandy. No dry hits, no flooding.
But if I do the same thing with a ProTank2 (or original ProTank, or PuriTank, or Anyvape Davide, or even a SmokTek ARO) I have to do primer pulls until the tank is about 1/2 empty to avoid burnt hits, and then once it's below 1/2, it floods and spits.
I'm now rebuilding all of THOSE heads with my own coils, and I do fairly well. I avoid the burnt hits all together, but I still get some (not as bad) flooding once past 1/2 empty.
Yeesh. Sorry to derail the thread. But hey, I don't have a Fogger yet so.....that's my excuse. I reckon all BCC coil building info will be applicable to this thing anyway.
But if I do the same thing with a ProTank2 (or original ProTank, or PuriTank, or Anyvape Davide, or even a SmokTek ARO) I have to do primer pulls until the tank is about 1/2 empty to avoid burnt hits, and then once it's below 1/2, it floods and spits.
I'm now rebuilding all of THOSE heads with my own coils, and I do fairly well. I avoid the burnt hits all together, but I still get some (not as bad) flooding once past 1/2 empty.
Yeesh. Sorry to derail the thread. But hey, I don't have a Fogger yet so.....that's my excuse. I reckon all BCC coil building info will be applicable to this thing anyway.
Yes, and one I am currently experiencing a LOT of frustrations with. What I don't understand is this: I can take a brand new T3S or EVOD head, remove one "extra" wick (leaving just the coil plus one of those "flavor" wicks) and everything is dandy. No dry hits, no flooding.
But if I do the same thing with a ProTank2 (or original ProTank, or PuriTank, or Anyvape Davide, or even a SmokTek ARO) I have to do primer pulls until the tank is about 1/2 empty to avoid burnt hits, and then once it's below 1/2, it floods and spits.
I'm now rebuilding all of THOSE heads with my own coils, and I do fairly well. I avoid the burnt hits all together, but I still get some (not as bad) flooding once past 1/2 empty.
Yeesh. Sorry to derail the thread. But hey, I don't have a Fogger yet so.....that's my excuse. I reckon all BCC coil building info will be applicable to this thing anyway.
For what it's worth, I've been doing mine with micro coils wrapped on a 1/16" drill bit, about 8 wraps, and I use CVS rolled sterile cotton in them. This is the one application were I really like cotton because it constantly sees juice. I find the cotton is a little better at filling the "void" properly, especially since it's kind of a square shape on most of my heads.
I haven't mastered micro coils still, and I've tried a load of times. I can't get 30 gauge kanthal to hang together, even after heating and cooling it multiple times. It just comes apart and I'm left with like a 5-7 Ohm coil. I'm guessing maybe my el-cheapo butane torch from fasttech just doesn't put out enough heat. I'm doing between 7 and 9 wraps and the ones on the end always pop out when I try to do anything with the legs.
But now I really AM going waaay OT so....sorry gang.
But now I really AM going waaay OT so....sorry gang.
Is that a typo? You are getting measured 5 to 7 ohm coils with 30AWG Kanthal wrapped 7-9 times? That would require a diameter of about 1/4 inch.
The trick with all Bottom Coil designs is to use a wick that will fill the hole completely so it doesn't flood, but will still wick well enough that it doesn't get dry either. Add in that what is required for this can vary based on PG/VG ratio of the juice and it can get a bit complicated. It really does require some finesse to get it down pat. So far with EVODs and AROs I have had the best luck with cotton yarn to give me the perfect consistency in my builds. However, once I get all of my vape mail in I will be trying something completely new.
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