Another possibility is to drill the fill hole a bit bigger and then buy a small water gun and use it's fill plug. You know the plug with the T on the inside so it can't get lost.
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Tips and Tricks
If you have to take the air flow assembly off, it is usually on really tight. On one of mine I slightly warped the threaded area that the chimney screws onto putting something in the wick holes to try and screw it off. This torque caused the upper portion of the wick hole area to spread out slightly. I was able to fix it so the chimney will go back on but now it is really tight. Looking back I should have left the chimney on and pushed a nail through the wick hole and used that so the torque was on the thick, non threaded part of the deck.
If you have a spare EVOD base laying around the Fogger (and any other 510 connector device) can screw in where the head should go giving you a little stand to work with. This allows it to stand upright, on it's own, even fully assembled and filled. This makes it a bit easier when rebuilding.
When refilling, make sure the air flow is all the way closed, and make sure the fill hole is dry so that air can escape though the fill hole or it will flood. If the fill hole gets wet with juice it can form a seal and create pressure that can cause flooding as well. It helps to use a needle nose fill bottle and fill slowly.
Don't over tighten the top cover. I have heard that this can crack the glass although I have not had this problem myself. I tighten mine down just until it is snug and not loose. The glass actually feels pretty sturdy to me.
When taking it apart the first time when it is new (or it has setup dry for a while), it may help to put a few drops of juice into it, to lube the o-rings, so the pieces will slide apart a bit easier. It also helps if you remove the fill screw before taking it apart so there is no vacuum working against you.
If you have any more tips and tricks please add them.
If you have to take the air flow assembly off, it is usually on really tight. On one of mine I slightly warped the threaded area that the chimney screws onto putting something in the wick holes to try and screw it off. This torque caused the upper portion of the wick hole area to spread out slightly. I was able to fix it so the chimney will go back on but now it is really tight. Looking back I should have left the chimney on and pushed a nail through the wick hole and used that so the torque was on the thick, non threaded part of the deck.
If you have a spare EVOD base laying around the Fogger (and any other 510 connector device) can screw in where the head should go giving you a little stand to work with. This allows it to stand upright, on it's own, even fully assembled and filled. This makes it a bit easier when rebuilding.
When refilling, make sure the air flow is all the way closed, and make sure the fill hole is dry so that air can escape though the fill hole or it will flood. If the fill hole gets wet with juice it can form a seal and create pressure that can cause flooding as well. It helps to use a needle nose fill bottle and fill slowly.
Don't over tighten the top cover. I have heard that this can crack the glass although I have not had this problem myself. I tighten mine down just until it is snug and not loose. The glass actually feels pretty sturdy to me.
When taking it apart the first time when it is new (or it has setup dry for a while), it may help to put a few drops of juice into it, to lube the o-rings, so the pieces will slide apart a bit easier. It also helps if you remove the fill screw before taking it apart so there is no vacuum working against you.
If you have any more tips and tricks please add them.
It required some careful maneuvers to get the glass off of my second one the first time
Wow...this is pretty amazing. I've got 635 SS mesh in there at 0.85 ohms, and it's great. This is easily something I could take with me every day - better vapor production than a Protank, and better flavor than my Igo.
e: Does anyone have any pics of a disassembled Fogger V2? I probably won't be able to get mine all the way apart with the tools (or lack thereof) that I own, so I'd at least like to know how it works internally.
e: Does anyone have any pics of a disassembled Fogger V2? I probably won't be able to get mine all the way apart with the tools (or lack thereof) that I own, so I'd at least like to know how it works internally.
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This is great ... we should get a full list together, and then maybe add it to your first post in this thread so its easy to locate for new owners ... just a thought.
Ok guys, I don't have one (yet), just a challenge for you that do. I want to see vertical micro/nana coil with cotton going around each side. Is there clearance? It may be an issue. If you do sub-ohms, or even use a higher gauge wire to accomodate for resistance vs size, I think it may be possible.
Good thread btw
Is there clearance? It may be an issue. If you do sub-ohms, or even use a higher gauge wire to accomodate for resistance vs size, I think it may be possible.Good thread btw
Ok guys, I don't have one (yet), just a challenge for you that do. I want to see vertical micro/nana coil with cotton going around each side.
Good thread btw
I have done it with ceramic in a kayfun style atty so there should be plenty of room in the fogger. I'm expecting my fogger today so I can't say for sure, but the fogger looks to have bit more room to work with.
One additional Tip:
To make it easier to get the thin clear o-ring in place, put the chimney on, unscrewed a couple of turns, and use the chimney as a guide sliding the o-ring over it. This will even out the stretch and eliminate sharp edges.
I got my Fogger V2 on Sat. When you get it right it is as everyone says WOW.
I had a few tries getting the correct X-116 to keep it flowing and not flooding but it is very nice. I have to try cotton with a micro coil soon since that seems to be a good solution on the forums.
I had a few tries getting the correct X-116 to keep it flowing and not flooding but it is very nice. I have to try cotton with a micro coil soon since that seems to be a good solution on the forums.
Got mine today. I've got nothing constructive to add yet, I just got it apart and washed it, tried out the factory wick for giggles.
Because yeah, it's a joke. I DID remember Todd's review and put in that little o-ring around the 510 pin. I'm glad he pointed that out.
But hey, it looked pretty good. Even lit up evenly. But it doesn't vape for #(@! I'll be going back through the thread and doing a rebuild (probably with doubled over 1.5mm ekowool to start with) later, but here's some photos just because. This thing looks flippin' sweet on top of the Magneto mod.
Because yeah, it's a joke. I DID remember Todd's review and put in that little o-ring around the 510 pin. I'm glad he pointed that out.
But hey, it looked pretty good. Even lit up evenly. But it doesn't vape for #(@! I'll be going back through the thread and doing a rebuild (probably with doubled over 1.5mm ekowool to start with) later, but here's some photos just because. This thing looks flippin' sweet on top of the Magneto mod.
Mine just came today too... same deal, coil is so loose, I'm not even going to try and vape on it. Going to start with a micro coil setup and go from there. (treating it like one of my Protank heads, but bigger)
I decided to shorten the ss wick so that it sits just inside the edge. And use 2mm ekowool inside. With the ekowool peeking out the sides about 2mm or 1/8". 
It vapes great...Wow!
It vapes great...Wow!
Some very ingenious tricks. I especially like the idea of a jig for getting those turns in ahead of time. I've been using 28g kanthal and although its gotten easier the more builds I've done, having them pre-formed would be a big plus.
Yes indeedy. Massive throat hit, then the taste of burning. I haven't had time yet to make my own coil, but with all the great ideas and methods in here, I'm almost lost as to which one to try first!
Since I can't roll mesh tight enough, I think I'll try to trim down a teeny tiny piece of ss cable, and encase it in ekowool. That way I don't have to worry about shorts. The hardest part will be trying to keep the cable from unraveling when I cut it so small. I'll have to wrap some tape around the area that I'm going to cut. That oughta do the trick.....
Since I can't roll mesh tight enough, I think I'll try to trim down a teeny tiny piece of ss cable, and encase it in ekowool. That way I don't have to worry about shorts. The hardest part will be trying to keep the cable from unraveling when I cut it so small. I'll have to wrap some tape around the area that I'm going to cut. That oughta do the trick.....
I just built my first coil in there also using 28g and cotton. 1st attempt, great first couple of hits, then flood city. Added a 2nd cotton "flavor wick" on top to increase the density and bam, she's vaping like a champ. All I can say is holy head-rush Batman, I'm getting NIC OD on 6 mg ... dang
edit: with the flavor wick started getting slightly burnt hits. Took both wicks out and redid just the through the coil wick with a slightly thicker, denser piece of cotton... seems to be working better now. At the moment I'm using the o-ring, applied using the chimney trick mentioned above (great idea)
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Took me a lot longer than I anticipated to get the wick placed right, and even though it all looked good, I've got nothing but flooding.
I'm done for right now. I'll give it another go tomorrow, this time with just ekowool. The one that's in there right now is ss cable with an ekowool jacket. It was a TIGHT fit in the channels on the sides. I did use the o-ring and the "chimney trick" really does help with getting that sucker back on there.
I'm done for right now. I'll give it another go tomorrow, this time with just ekowool. The one that's in there right now is ss cable with an ekowool jacket. It was a TIGHT fit in the channels on the sides. I did use the o-ring and the "chimney trick" really does help with getting that sucker back on there.
I got my SS in today (1.5mm and 2.0mm) and I am here to tell you it is NOT possible to cut it to the 1/2 inch length we need without it coming apart unless it is prewrapped. The only way I was able to get it cut and not come apart was to mark my 1/2 inch and then stuff the end into some XS-116 right up to my mark and then cut it. I did not wrap a coil around this because I don't want the coil wrapped around anything silica.
My original plan was to cut the SS rope, wrap a coil round a nail for a perfect coil, oxidize the coil (not the wick), slide the SS rope into the coil and then use the XS-116 just on the ends to fill gaps in the wick hole. This doesn't look like it's going to work, so I am not sure just yet how I am going to proceed. I do have a couple of ideas left though.
EDIT: Basically what I need is something that is not heat sensitive that I can put around the wire ends to stop leaks and prevent fraying. Then again maybe the 2mm won't need anything to stop leaks.
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