Fogger V2...WOW

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ScottP

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Took me a lot longer than I anticipated to get the wick placed right, and even though it all looked good, I've got nothing but flooding.

I'm done for right now. I'll give it another go tomorrow, this time with just ekowool. The one that's in there right now is ss cable with an ekowool jacket. It was a TIGHT fit in the channels on the sides. I did use the o-ring and the "chimney trick" really does help with getting that sucker back on there.

Since I have 2 Foggers, I have one that I am experimenting with and one that I put my standard EVOD/PT build in. This is a basic micro coil with boiled 100% cotton yarn. So far this build really is working great in the Fogger. I just wanted to experiment with other things.

I posted pics and instructions for the EVOD version here but there are more instructions starting on page 1 of that thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/469445-wick-preferences-3.html
 

ScottP

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This is great ... we should get a full list together, and then maybe add it to your first post in this thread so its easy to locate for new owners ... just a thought. :)

Unfortunately ECF has a time limit on editing. Once that time has passed there is no way to edit the post any more...unless you are a moderator.
 

Symmetry

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My wick has been working solidly for a while now...closing in on the second day of constant use, and it's still working wonderfully. 635 SS mesh rolled around 18ga needle - it'll barely fit in the wick holes, but I rolled the walls -tight- so it just squeezes in there. Wrapped 4 wraps of 28awg Kanthal around it, and I'm rocking 0.85. It's great - consistent performance, no hot spots, no flooding, and no dry hits even with Nanner Bear (notoriously difficult to wick, and usually recommended for dripping only).

Due to how wide the hole in my mesh is, the liquid is gravity-fed more than capillary-fed - the juice runs in the wick, then is wicked to the coil through the walls. That means no dry hits, ever.

Once this thing is working, it's amazing. To anyone reading this thread who's frustrated, like I was, and about to throw in the towel - it took me two days to get a semi-working setup, so just keep experimenting. You'll find what works for you, and you'll love it.
 

Scope666

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Unfortunately ECF has a time limit on editing. Once that time has passed there is no way to edit the post any more...unless you are a moderator.


Bummer, I didn't know that. We frequently do that "update the Op" (1st, original post) trick over in the XDA Android forums. Either way, all of the tricks that have been posted have been GREAT so far. I definitely used the Chimney trick, as well as the 2 needles in the holes to pre-form the bends, makes it a LOT easier. So far this thing is kicking all of my other rebuildable's butts. I like the fact that the vape isn't so warm like Ithaka / Oddy.
 

BobC

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All I can say is WoW! The flavor from this is fantastic, the vape is great, the TH is powerful. Had the same shorting issues as everyone else out of the box after cleaning and re-wicking (12 wraps of 28 microcoil with cotton). Just had to reposition the 510 screw. Micro-coil & cotton seems to be the best way to go for me. As said by others, make sure your cotton is thin, and flush against the housing after replacing the o-ring, and you won't have leaking. This is the best RBA I've used, totally beating out my gennis
 

Scope666

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All I can say is WoW! The flavor from this is fantastic, the vape is great, the TH is powerful. Had the same shorting issues as everyone else out of the box after cleaning and re-wicking (12 wraps of 28 microcoil with cotton). Just had to reposition the 510 screw. Micro-coil & cotton seems to be the best way to go for me. As said by others, make sure your cotton is thin, and flush against the housing after replacing the o-ring, and you won't have leaking. This is the best RBA I've used, totally beating out my gennis

+1 ... agreed on all points. Took a few tries to get the wick density right, but now it's amazing.
 

zipflint

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godowar, that sucks about your glass! I'd be furious with myself!!!

In other news.....2nd build is a bit better, but not great. I'm using 1.5mm ekowool, two strands cut flush with the wicking channels, so nothing is poking out into the tank.

No more flooding, and I'm getting SOME vapor, but very very little. I'm guessing something is choked in there. Maybe I should try just a single strand of 2mm silica, and another one just sitting on top. The current build is 3 wraps of 30 gauge kanthal, came out to 1.8Ohm which I thought was kinda high. I've got it on my SVD set at 11 watts but that isn't accomplishing much.

I've tried closing off the airflow control and taking a few primer drags, but that doesn't seem to do much either.....
 

Endor

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My wick has been working solidly for a while now...closing in on the second day of constant use, and it's still working wonderfully. 635 SS mesh rolled around 18ga needle - it'll barely fit in the wick holes, but I rolled the walls -tight- so it just squeezes in there. Wrapped 4 wraps of 28awg Kanthal around it, and I'm rocking 0.85. It's great - consistent performance, no hot spots, no flooding, and no dry hits even with Nanner Bear (notoriously difficult to wick, and usually recommended for dripping only).

Symmetry, would you happen to remember how big the square/rectangle of mesh was that you started with? I don't have 635 (only 500) and would love to try this out.

I'm still having very hit-and-miss with this thing. I'm still running a 28ga microcoil (8-ish wraps, I think, 1/16th diameter, it's 1.7ohm). Rethreaded a small piece of cotton ball in there, cut almost flush (maybe 1/2mm outside) and now getting flooding. I may try yarn next.
 

Scope666

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godowar, that sucks about your glass! I'd be furious with myself!!!

In other news.....2nd build is a bit better, but not great. I'm using 1.5mm ekowool, two strands cut flush with the wicking channels, so nothing is poking out into the tank.

No more flooding, and I'm getting SOME vapor, but very very little. I'm guessing something is choked in there. Maybe I should try just a single strand of 2mm silica, and another one just sitting on top. The current build is 3 wraps of 30 gauge kanthal, came out to 1.8Ohm which I thought was kinda high. I've got it on my SVD set at 11 watts but that isn't accomplishing much.

I've tried closing off the airflow control and taking a few primer drags, but that doesn't seem to do much either.....


I would try wrapping around 10 wraps of 28 or 30g around a 1/16" drill bit (smooth side) .... and make a wick out of cotton. I use the CVS Sterile rolled kind, others use balls... Cotton is one of the fastest wicking mediums out there, you just can't dry burn it. Usually not an issue in a device like the Fogger since it's bottom fed.
 

Symmetry

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Symmetry, would you happen to remember how big the square/rectangle of mesh was that you started with? I don't have 635 (only 500) and would love to try this out.

I'm still having very hit-and-miss with this thing. I'm still running a 28ga microcoil (8-ish wraps, I think, 1/16th diameter, it's 1.7ohm). Rethreaded a small piece of cotton ball in there, cut almost flush (maybe 1/2mm outside) and now getting flooding. I may try yarn next.

The square of mesh that I started with was 18mm by however long you want to work with. The 18mm (the long axis) gets rolled into a tube. Good luck! Remember, keep it hollow.

To those who have taken apart a Fogger successfully: does it look like there's any way to increase the airflow?
 

ancientgeek

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To those who have taken apart a Fogger successfully: does it look like there's any way to increase the airflow?

There's a silicon insert in the base piece where the air holes are drilled. This piece can turn and block some of the air holes. I made sure that mine was oriented properly and it has a very airy draw, like Pro Tank 1 or more so.
 

dwcraig1

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ancientgeek

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My first coil for the Frogger 2: 11 wraps using 30 gauge Kanthal stuffed with cotton (ball form), this gave me a 1.8 Ohm coil which is exactly what I wanted for my Vamo 3 and eVic. BTW I folded the cotton that was sticking out back on itself but cut clear of the coil. This was to ensure that the wick holes were filled with cotton and no holes.

20131001_141149sm.jpg
 

bapgood

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To those who have taken apart a Fogger successfully: does it look like there's any way to increase the airflow?

There's a silicon insert in the base piece where the air holes are drilled. This piece can turn and block some of the air holes. I made sure that mine was oriented properly and it has a very airy draw, like Pro Tank 1 or more so.

As ancientgeek said try to keep the silicone oriented correctly. However that can sometimes be a challenge as there is nothing to keep it from spinning when you screw the parts together. I don't really see the point of that big of a piece, I'm thinking about trimming mine to the same diameter as the internal disk.

Also the insulator on the top half of the disk center pin should be at the top or at least above the 4 holes in it.

Here are some pics






Kind of hard to see....but there is 4 cross drilled holes




In this pic you can at least see one of the 4 holes






And this pic is just for fun :D

 

dwcraig1

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I've resisted getting one since this came out and I finally bought one today. Stormysvaporcellar has them in stock. Not as cheap as the other sites but no one seems to have it in stock at the moment.

Don't forget to use code "10OFF" to bring that price down 10%, that sort of puts it at about what others are selling it for.
 

ScottP

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Rethreaded a small piece of cotton ball in there, cut almost flush (maybe 1/2mm outside) and now getting flooding. I may try yarn next.

With the yarn the only time I ever get flooding is when filling. So now after filling (before putting on the outer cover and drip tip) I turn the whole unit upside down to drain for a second and once that initial flood is clear, it has been smooth sailing until the next fill.

EDIT: I should add here that I am NOT using the white gasket between the chimney and the wick holes, so that might be part of this issue.
 
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