Fogger V2...WOW

[folkphys]

Sooooo

My v2s came in, no visible rubber grommet that I can see but the draw is TIGHT. How on earth can I take apart the base to see what's going on? Seems like the 510 can push a bit and block my airflow.

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For the base disassembly I used a pair of channel locks and small screwdriver wedged inside the wick channels. Flipping the unit upside down, if you see the small flat-head screw inside the 510 connector leaning obviously to one side, then you absolutely have a problem.

 

[bapgood]

Sooooo

My v2s came in, no visible rubber grommet that I can see but the draw is TIGHT. How on earth can I take apart the base to see what's going on? Seems like the 510 can push a bit and block my airflow.

Sent from my Note II via Tapatalk HD

I just for my second fogger and the base was really stuck together!!!

It came apart ok after running hot water over it for a few minutes. I thinking boiling it may just be the trick to easily take it apart.

 

[Scope666]

I just for my second fogger and the base was really stuck together!!!

It came apart ok after running hot water over it for a few minutes. I thinking boiling it may just be the trick to easily take it apart.

I've gotten to the point where I can see that white circle piece with the chunk cut out, that lines up with the air holes ... does that mean I've gotten it apart? Or is there more to disassembly?

 

[folkphys]

I've gotten to the point where I can see that white circle piece with the chunk cut out, that lines up with the air holes ... does that mean I've gotten it apart? Or is there more to disassembly?

See pages 28-29 of the thread.

 

[Scope666]

See pages 28-29 of the thread.

Thanks, so I mostly did it, just never pulled the center pin out ... I'll do that next build to get a good look at the offset insulator.

 

[michliu]

Sooooo

My v2s came in, no visible rubber grommet that I can see but the draw is TIGHT. How on earth can I take apart the base to see what's going on? Seems like the 510 can push a bit and block my airflow.

Sent from my Note II via Tapatalk HD

Same here on the airflow, time to dump the juice and pull out the pliers.

 

[michliu]

@astrocity, it's post 279, there's a rubber insulator that is blocking the airholes . . . I think. I took two pliers to unscrew by holding on to the part above and below the AFC ring.

 

[Scope666]

Just rebuilt that bottom section ... for the life of my I cannot run without an o-ring under the chimney / juice control piece ... leak city when I try... even though to my eye it looks like the same amount of clearance around the wick holes.

 

[zipflint]

I gave up on the micro coil build and just tried a regular ol' doubled-over ekowool strand (total diameter around 4mm or less) and 4 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal. Getting THAT captured and neatly centered was easy. Came out to 1 Ohm.

But I still got nothing but massive flooding. I filled it with the air flow control ring fully closed, and (following a board member's suggestion) filled the glass tank with the top part completely off. Then put it back on, re-inserted the screw, and thought I was good to go.

Nope. Just a juice box. Reading through the thread, I can't tell what I'm doing wrong. I need more videos, something geared to the slow-witted, like myself.

 

[BobC]

I'm running a micro coil with cotton just fine, show pics of your setup and explain how you fill it, I mean what you do after filling.

Also, with cotton, make sure the cotton is Veeeeeeerrrrry thin and the ends protrude the holes by a mm or so only.

 

[Scope666]

I'm running a micro coil with cotton just fine, show pics of your setup and explain how you fill it, I mean what you do after filling.

Also, with cotton, make sure the cotton is Veeeeeeerrrrry thin and the ends protrude the holes by a mm or so only.

Two more things, are you using the o-ring that goes under the chimney / juice control? ... and visually inspect the two wick holes to make sure you don't see any clear paths into the atomizer chamber ... the only way in should be THROUGH the wicks, not AROUND the wicks.

 

[bigbubba7373]

I just got my 2 v2 foggers in they have no rubber under the wick in the air hole.i recoiled them with folded over 2.5mm silica wick 32g kanthal 3/4 wrap 1.6 ohms no oring on chimney no leaking all day long even when left alone for 2 hours and picked back up to vape.all I can say is wow I love them the only thing I did was make sure once the chimney was on that I cut the wicks almost flush so they did not rub the tank they wick great cant wait to try cotton.

 

[Scope666]

I just got my 2 v2 foggers in they have no rubber under the wick in the air hole.i recoiled them with folded over 2.5mm silica wick 32g kanthal 3/4 wrap 1.6 ohms no oring on chimney no leaking all day long even when left alone for 2 hours and picked back up to vape.all I can say is wow I love them the only thing I did was make sure once the chimney was on that I cut the wicks almost flush so they did not rub the tank they wick great cant wait to try cotton.

I get the feeling they're revising this thing as they go along ... some have the raised center in the atomizer chamber, some don't, o-ring, no o-ring...

 

[BobC]

Can't imagine the o-ring on the chimney does much

 

[ScottP]

I might tackle mine again tonight, but I want to be sure of a couple of points that have already been addressed:

1: I know micro coils are "the thing" but I cannot build one to save my life. I just don't have the fine motor control. So I'll have to use silica or ekowool. I'm aiming for just under 1Ohm sooo....3-4 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal? If I'm using two 1.5mm strands of ekowool (solid, not hollow) do I need to use the o-ring to curtail flooding/leaking?

2: Filling. Every time I've tried to fill this thing, even when using needle-tip bottles or syringes, I get negative pressure, pushing most of the e-liquid back up through the fill hole. A youtube video showed that filling it while holding it upside-down worked great. Is anyone else doing this?

I wouldn't think you would need the oring for that but maybe try it both ways. We are all still experimenting still.

I just tried the upside down filling and it worked fine but my bottle was mostly full. I can foresee problems as your juice bottle gets closer to the empty side.

 

[ScottP]

Can't imagine the o-ring on the chimney does much

It creates a seal between the chimney threading and the base. It seems to only be needed with thinner wicks. With my yarn wicks, which are fairly thick it did prevent flooding when top filling but also cause dry hits if I didn't make sure to let an air bubble come out through the wick between hits.

 

[ScottP]

I gave up on the micro coil build and just tried a regular ol' doubled-over ekowool strand (total diameter around 4mm or less) and 4 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal. Getting THAT captured and neatly centered was easy. Came out to 1 Ohm.

But I still got nothing but massive flooding. I filled it with the air flow control ring fully closed, and (following a board member's suggestion) filled the glass tank with the top part completely off. Then put it back on, re-inserted the screw, and thought I was good to go.

Nope. Just a juice box. Reading through the thread, I can't tell what I'm doing wrong. I need more videos, something geared to the slow-witted, like myself.

In my experience it only floods during filling. Once everything is reassembled and the vacuum is again balanced it works flawlessly. If I get flooding on the fill, I turn the whole unit upside down on a napkin and open the air flow, BEFORE putting the cover and drip tip on. This allows the juice in the chamber to drain out. Once that is done just add the top cover and tip and it should work fine.

 

[omeletduefromage]

idk if this was covered but i just got mine and built it with 30ga kanthal and cotton on a 6 wrap standard coil. its at about 1.7ohm but for the life of me i cant get it to pull right. really really tight. I fixed the bottom insulator so it lines up with the air holes but it still wont pull. not very foggy up in here right now.

 

[zipflint]

Thanks heaps for this tip. I'm trying it out right now. Fogger is sitting upside down, air flow wide open, and it's already drained a little bit. I'll let it sit this way for maybe half an hour and see what happens.

In my experience it only floods during filling. Once everything is reassembled and the vacuum is again balanced it works flawlessly. If I get flooding on the fill, I turn the whole unit upside down on a napkin and open the air flow, BEFORE putting the cover and drip tip on. This allows the juice in the chamber to drain out. Once that is done just add the top cover and tip and it should work fine.

 

[Ranic85]

I just got my Fogger V2 setup today! I am quite happy with it running 28 gauge microcoil at 1.1 ohm. I was wondering however. Even with the airflow adjuster on max. It still has a really tight draw. Is it possible to drill out the airholes?