Fogger V4!!

[ewspears]

I have some questions;
What diameter screw or drill did You use for a mandrel to wind those coils?
What gauge Kanthal did You use?
What resistance did the two coil setup come out at?
Also would love to see some pics of the wicking setup You used for this!
and of course please report back how she vapes!

Make sure you use RUSTY needle nose, that's the important part.

View attachment 352672View attachment 352673View attachment 352675

 

[Sptz]

This is how I've been wicking mine. Using a 5/64 drill bit so that I have enough cotton to vape at 24 watts.

Was epic fail for me previously when I was using 1/16, since that was the only diameter where i could stuff the cotton tails into the channel without choking it off.

Using tbev's suggestion of trimming the ends at an angle, I could then use a 5/64 drill bit and enough cotton. Snipped like this

I like to bend the wick and just stuff a tiny bit of the end into the channel (halfway down), while leaving a fat lump of cotton between the coil and the channel. Reaaaaaaally helps me to chain vape at 24 watts

Looks like I have a lot of cotton in the channel because it's all juiced up, but it's reaaaaally a tiny bit

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That looks like a nightmare to screw in the chimney as the angles of the cotton are wider than the deck so it might destroy your entire wicking, a problem I had and that's why I haven't stuffed cotton into the channels every since (as well as the dry hits)

Also, mine is the 4.3, there's no horizontal end of the juice channels, just vertical, not sure if that also comes into play with my issues.

 

[TheKiwi]

That looks like a nightmare to screw in the chimney as the angles of the cotton are wider than the deck so it might destroy your entire wicking, a problem I had and that's why I haven't stuffed cotton into the channels every since (as well as the dry hits)

Also, mine is the 4.3, there's no horizontal end of the juice channels, just vertical, not sure if that also comes into play with my issues.

I kinda just prod the cotton closer to the post when I put the lower chimney section on, and it screws on fine. The cotton might kinda tilt slightly in the direction of the screwing on, but not much. I just use my screw driver to adjust it and that's really it. Has been working like a charm for me the past month


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[BNEAT]

That looks like a nightmare to screw in the chimney as the angles of the cotton are wider than the deck so it might destroy your entire wicking, a problem I had and that's why I haven't stuffed cotton into the channels every since (as well as the dry hits)

Also, mine is the 4.3, there's no horizontal end of the juice channels, just vertical, not sure if that also comes into play with my issues.

I had that problem too. Most of the time at least one of the wicks got messed up when I screwed the chamber on. I've got one of every version of these things, and I do them all the same, except for the 4.3: I trim the wick a little longer on that one because there's more room to stuff more wick onto the deck. I trim the wick to the top of the chamber base on that one, and just a little shorter on all of the other models.

 

[BNEAT]

I kinda just prod the cotton closer to the post when I put the lower chimney section on, and it screws on fine. The cotton might kinda tilt slightly in the direction of the screwing on, but not much. I just use my screw driver to adjust it and that's really it. Has been working like a charm for me the past month

One of mine has really rough threads on the I.D. of the chimney base, and it flat out destroys the wicks when you try to screw it on. I actually had it pull the wick right out of the coil one time! I could probably get away with your method on my other Foggers, but this method is working pretty good, so I haven't tried it in a while. It's sucks not being able see exactly how the wicks are sitting down there, it's always a guessing game until you get the juice filled and start vaping.

 

[Sptz]

One of mine has really rough threads on the I.D. of the chimney base, and it flat out destroys the wicks when you try to screw it on. I actually had it pull the wick right out of the coil one time! I could probably get away with your method on my other Foggers, but this method is working pretty good, so I haven't tried it in a while. It's sucks not being able see exactly how the wicks are sitting down there, it's always a guessing game until you get the juice filled and start vaping.

So, on the 4.3 you're building it like a Kayfun then? Wicking into the actual channels is giving you dry hit city like me?

 

[TheKiwi]

One of mine has really rough threads on the I.D. of the chimney base, and it flat out destroys the wicks when you try to screw it on. I actually had it pull the wick right out of the coil one time! I could probably get away with your method on my other Foggers, but this method is working pretty good, so I haven't tried it in a while. It's sucks not being able see exactly how the wicks are sitting down there, it's always a guessing game until you get the juice filled and start vaping.

Right. That sucks. China machining eh?

I have a couple of 4.2 and 4.3. On my 4.3 I just trim my cotton above the chimney section, and stuff it all above and near the juice channels too. Works like a charm, no leak and I can easily vape up to 30 watts no prob.

Problem is I can't replicate that on the 4.2. The distance from the juice channel to the airhole is too short, and I end up getting flooding every single time. Just for my own experience, I NEED to have at least a tiny bit of wick to "plug up" the channel to prevent leaking, and the build above is the closest I've found to not leak but still allow me to vape anywhere above 24 watts.

I guess if I have a Dremel, I would just expand the juice channels so that I can actually stuff 5/64 worth of wick into the channel the way I do with the aqua.


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[BNEAT]

I don't think I have ever tried putting wicks in the channels on that one, so I don't know how it would do. I'm sure someone could get it to work just fine like that, but for me, Kayfun style is working great.

 

[350ZMO]

I have some questions;
What diameter screw or drill did You use for a mandrel to wind those coils?
What gauge Kanthal did You use?
What resistance did the two coil setup come out at?
Also would love to see some pics of the wicking setup You used for this!
and of course please report back how she vapes!

Wash ALL parts in alcohol first, I like Vodka.

That is the BIG fogger but did same on the regular V4 and V4+. On the BIG I use 4mm screws and on the regulars I use 3mm screws to wrap coils. I wind right on the screw, torch it, take screw out, torch it again, put screw back in to sit on deck and wire up.

28 on the BIG and 30 on the regular. Kanthal not nichrome.

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Rayon.

I have tried horizontal, vertical, through coil, tight coils, spaced, silica, cotton and now Rayon. This is the best combination so far. I like the spaced coils and large diameter for multiple reasons, its gets the most juice saturated heated area - bottom line produces tons of wet vapor and doesn't get too hot. I like the Rayon as it wicks better than cotton and does not affect flavor - cotton will until many puffs then it kind of sets in somehow.

I wrap the coils first with a lil bit then lay wick around. As TBEV and BNEAT and others have said lay the wick on the deck not down in the channels. Only leaks are at first fill but within a few puffs to draw the wick in it stops. And if you use too much wick it wont flow juice fast enough for high power. With Rayon, as the folks have said here both of those affects are greatly reduced.

I can also say that if you don't like the taste with this set up and procedure...then you don't like the taste of your juice. Because that's what I get. Not hot not dry no floral no metallic just the juice flavor. Airy draw full of thick wet heavy vape.

There is always going to be variability in each build and between each persons draw and between each fogger even if the same, that's why it is important to use the air flow control ring and power adjustment. A little too much wicking - back off power and close ring, after a few builds you'll find what looks like the right amount of wick to use. Really doesn't need a lot. But you'll figure it out. Part of the fun is experimenting. This works great for me. YMMV.

Oh 7 wraps 28 1.1ohm.

 

[BNEAT]

Again, Rayon is what solved all of my leaking issues. It was always a very fine line between enough cotton to keep it from leaking, and too much cotton causing coil starvation. With Rayon I haven't suffered from either of those in over 3 weeks. I could probably get away with stuffing Rayon in the channels and not starve my coils like cotton used to do, but I haven't tried it yet, and probably won't.

 

[BNEAT]

Wash ALL parts in alcohol first, I like Vodka.

That is the BIG fogger but did same on the regular V4 and V4+. On the BIG I use 4mm screws and on the regulars I use 3mm screws to wrap coils. I wind right on the screw, torch it, take screw out, torch it again, put screw back in to sit on deck and wire up.

28 on the BIG and 30 on the regular. Kanthal not nichrome.

View attachment 352689View attachment 352690

Oh 7 wraps 28 1.1ohm.

Damn, those are big coils! I'm definitely gonna have to try that build

 

[350ZMO]

One of mine has really rough threads on the I.D. of the chimney base, and it flat out destroys the wicks when you try to screw it on. I actually had it pull the wick right out of the coil one time! I could probably get away with your method on my other Foggers, but this method is working pretty good, so I haven't tried it in a while. It's sucks not being able see exactly how the wicks are sitting down there, it's always a guessing game until you get the juice filled and start vaping.

You could try a little 800G crocus cloth or 1000G wet/dry fine emery, roll it up into a tube to fit inside the chimney and twist it a few times. Should clear those sharpies.

 

[350ZMO]

Again, Rayon is what solved all of my leaking issues. It was always a very fine line between enough cotton to keep it from leaking, and too much cotton causing coil starvation. With Rayon I haven't suffered from either of those in over 3 weeks. I could probably get away with stuffing Rayon in the channels and not starve my coils like cotton used to do, but I haven't tried it yet, and probably won't.

That is what I have found as well. And thanks to all the folks in this thread for the Sally and Rayon ideas. I concur, easier builds, better flavor, lasts longer.

 

[BNEAT]

You could try a little 800G crocus cloth or 1000G wet/dry fine emery, roll it up into a tube to fit inside the chimney and twist it a few times. Should clear those sharpies.

I own a Tool&Die shop, so the first thing I do when I get a new device in the mail is head straight to the polishing department to smooth out all of the unfinished and rough edges those little Chinese women left behind! LOL (was that politically incorrect?) The threads in question are a bit beyond that: the surface of every thread is "torn", like the tooling was dull in their CNC lathe. No biggie though, as long as I continue wicking Kayfun style....damn, I wish I had a need for a CNC lathe!

 

[350ZMO]

Damn, those are big coils! I'm definitely gonna have to try that build

I'm not going for 50W builds just ones that taste good. Currently running fantastic at 16W on the SX300 with AFC ring full open. Over time if it follows the pattern of all the others, Over the next week or two I'll have to gradually kick the power up to get the same vape. I would describe it as rich, thick, wet, saturated, true juice flavor packed cloud of vape. I mix and flavor my own 100% VG. No PG so my juice is thicker that will make a difference too on how much wick to use.

 

[BNEAT]

Same here, I vape 100%VG at 20watts or less, depending on the juice. A Wet one is exactly what I'm after!!

 

[AMDTrucking]

I own a Tool&Die shop, so the first thing I do when I get a new device in the mail is head straight to the polishing department to smooth out all of the unfinished and rough edges those little Chinese women left behind! LOL (was that politically incorrect?) The threads in question are a bit beyond that: the surface of every thread is "torn", like the tooling was dull in their CNC lathe. No biggie though, as long as I continue wicking Kayfun style....damn, I wish I had a need for a CNC lathe!

I had a suspicion that you know your metal working stuff I do too (I'd like to think so.) I used to work at Tool & Die shop in USSR many years ago, in my teens helping my dad. But that was many years ago. Now I just have a little Chinese Lathe and Mill, Drill Press, Grinders and Dremels.
My question to you, as a professional is this:
I'm dealing with the wicking problem of ToBeCo 28.5mm Kayfun Lite. It just doesn't wick well for me. I tried rayon, it was bad. Switched back to cotton with a little better results, but still not as good as I would want it to work.
I decides to enlarge my vertical juice channels to allow for more juice flow. I, off course, broke my last 2.0 mm end mill. So I used a Diamond Stick (I don't really know how to call it. It came in one of my Dremel sets). Using my Mill, not the Dremel because I wanted to keep 90* angle, at the highest speed and almost no pressure, I grinded those channels first to about 0.3mm deeper on each side. That didn't help. Then I went 0.45mm deeper. But I'm still having the wicking issues.
Do those channels have to be mirror smooth? They are a bit ruff right now.
Do I need to enlarge them even more?

What do you think?

I'm sorry guys, I know this is a Fogger thread, but I'm so frustrated with this KF issues that I'm having...

P. S: I meant to ask yet another question:
When you buy a Tap, three options are offered:
1. Bottom Tap
2. Intermediate Tap
3. Plug Tap
Could you please help me understand the difference?

And this thing:

What is the advantage of forming, not cutting threads?

 

[bsoplinger]

I assume you've seen a tap, if not just imagine a screw with vertical slots in the threads down to the core diameter. You screw this into a hole and the threads cut away at the edges of the hole adding threads to it. Now just like a screw a standard tap is tapered at the end. This is the intermediate tap.

Imagine you're trying to tap an extremely brittle or tough material. If the amount of taper of an intermediate tap is too much so that it'd work better if the taper was more gradual so that each turn would be removing less material for less strain (brittle) or for an amount of force required to actually make the cut (tough). This is a tapered tap.

Imagine using that to add threads to a hole that only goes partway through the material. The bottom most threads would be incomplete because of the tapered end of the tap. So to properly get threads all the way down you'd want a tap slightly different in design, with threads full sized even at the end. That's a plug tap.



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[Atrain009]

Make sure you use RUSTY needle nose, that's the important part.

View attachment 352672View attachment 352673View attachment 352675

Awesome! What do you mean by rusty, or is that just a joke? I'm slow lol. Also, could you show me what your wicks look like with the vertical coils? Sorry for asking so much.

 

[AMDTrucking]

I assume you've seen a tap, if not just imagine a screw with vertical slots in the threads down to the core diameter. You screw this into a hole and the threads cut away at the edges of the hole adding threads to it. Now just like a screw a standard tap is tapered at the end. This is the intermediate tap.

Imagine you're trying to tap an extremely brittle or tough material. If the amount of taper of an intermediate tap is too much so that it'd work better if the taper was more gradual so that each turn would be removing less material for less strain (brittle) or for an amount of force required to actually make the cut (tough). This is a tapered tap.

Imagine using that to add threads to a hole that only goes partway through the material. The bottom most threads would be incomplete because of the tapered end of the tap. So to properly get threads all the way down you'd want a tap slightly different in design, with threads full sized even at the end. That's a plug tap.



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Yes, I've seen the Tap, LOL

Only back in USSR we had #1 Tap that shaves less metal and makes primer threads. #2 Tap (sometimes even #3) that finalizes the Full threading. And if we threaded into a dead end hole - we would just run #2 as far as it goes and then grind the Tap 1/3 of it off and finish the job. I guess technology went a long way since then...