Fogger V4!!
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There are truly few things in life harder than wicking spaced Ni200 coils with rayon.
Took me forever
13 or 12 wraps, 30 ga around a 7/64 drill bit, 0.11 ohm
I don't think it'll actually be possible any of the Fogger versions except for the 4.3 or the big fogger if you wanna use it on a dna40 with temp mode. There's barely enough deck space to fit the coil
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Took me forever
13 or 12 wraps, 30 ga around a 7/64 drill bit, 0.11 ohm
I don't think it'll actually be possible any of the Fogger versions except for the 4.3 or the big fogger if you wanna use it on a dna40 with temp mode. There's barely enough deck space to fit the coil
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@kiwi...can't the wraps touch with the nichrome wire and temp control? I could of sworn I saw some pictures of setups with temperature control and the coils were touching. Also how do you get the coils to glow evenly if you can't first dry burn them and squeeze the coils together.
Is the vape actually better with temp control? Imeo is making a temp control device as well but his is working with either stainless steel or titanium wire. I would think that would be far easier to deal with than nickel wire.
Is the vape actually better with temp control? Imeo is making a temp control device as well but his is working with either stainless steel or titanium wire. I would think that would be far easier to deal with than nickel wire.
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You meant Nickel, not nichrome
A few others and myself have discovered that contact coil works "fine". Except I did up 13 or 14 contact builds. Wicked and juiced up and fired up. While resistance and temperature read fine, about 7 times I observed the fastest and brightest hot legs I've EVER seen. And the problem is that because of the way the chip senses the average temperature + the sheer mass of wire used, it doesn't even detect it! Everything can read fine on the display, even those there was a very very serious hot leg. This has been observed by a few other users too. So yeah. My sensing is that unlike kanthal, contact nickel have some weird net resistance going on. So I'm staying away from contact coils for good.
And yeah, I didn't test to make sure they fire up evenly. Opinions are split around whether it's safe to get nickel hot enough to glow and im choosing to err on the side of caution
Vape quality wise, I don't notice any improvements. But I also came into buying the flask with the expectation that it'll protect me from awful dry hits, and not so much any improvement in vape quality.
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I swear to god I have never really gotten bad dry hits , I'm generally pretty careful, but I hot the worst dry hit ever tonight playing with tc. I am throughly enjoying the very cool vape I'm getting out of this thing tho.
I'm running duals with 32ga ni200 @0.2ohm spaced , I just wrapped it like a MC but didn't pinch it I also twisted a single wire in a drill to add a little backbone to it, minor change but noticeable.
I'm running duals with 32ga ni200 @0.2ohm spaced , I just wrapped it like a MC but didn't pinch it I also twisted a single wire in a drill to add a little backbone to it, minor change but noticeable.
I was looking for Vapor Flask V2 DNA-40 and couldn’t find one online. Today I was passing through New Orleans, LA and bought one at Calhoun Vapor B&M for $340.00
But that’s where the fun ends. I tried making a NI200 Pure Nickel 26AWG 12 wraps coil over a 3.1mm rod – Not good. Resistance is too low. Won’t work. 0.06 Ω (Minimum resistance should be 0.16 Ω)
I had to use 28AWG NI200 Nickel wire and it worked at 0.16 Ω
BUT I don’t get enough vapor even at 480F and 490F. Don’t get me wrong, the thing works but not as good as I want it to (for $340.00) It doesn’t burn Rayon wick, it doesn’t overcook my liquid. But it doesn’t produce enough vapor. I used Flash E-Vapor RTA because I wanted to use a single coil setup.
Maybe I just need to familiarize myself with this new Temperature Controled DNA-40 a little better, but my first impression is not that good.
But that’s where the fun ends. I tried making a NI200 Pure Nickel 26AWG 12 wraps coil over a 3.1mm rod – Not good. Resistance is too low. Won’t work. 0.06 Ω (Minimum resistance should be 0.16 Ω)
I had to use 28AWG NI200 Nickel wire and it worked at 0.16 Ω
BUT I don’t get enough vapor even at 480F and 490F. Don’t get me wrong, the thing works but not as good as I want it to (for $340.00) It doesn’t burn Rayon wick, it doesn’t overcook my liquid. But it doesn’t produce enough vapor. I used Flash E-Vapor RTA because I wanted to use a single coil setup.
Maybe I just need to familiarize myself with this new Temperature Controled DNA-40 a little better, but my first impression is not that good.
I've got a call in for the next shipment, but I might not buy one. Quite a few people are having issues with their chip, so I might give Evolv a little more time to work the bugs out...if I can restrain myself!
Sorry to hear you're not happy with the flask/DNA40, AMD, especially at that price! I was sorry I didn't jump on the co-op, but now I'm sort of glad. I think I'll wait it out a bit and see what develops, although most are reporting good results.
I finally broke down and ordered a new base for my Big Fogger. I haven't ben able to budge that stuck drill bit.
I finally broke down and ordered a new base for my Big Fogger. I haven't ben able to budge that stuck drill bit.
Nobody wants to cave in and use f'ing 32ga ni200. I hope there's a better answer than titanium wire but I haven't found it yet. . Dna40 has impressed me tho I gotta say I didn't think 40 watts was going to cut it...tc is just a plus. Got mine in a pre op , working fine so far.
You meant Nickel, not nichrome
A few others and myself have discovered that contact coil works "fine". Except I did up 13 or 14 contact builds. Wicked and juiced up and fired up. While resistance and temperature read fine, about 7 times I observed the fastest and brightest hot legs I've EVER seen. And the problem is that because of the way the chip senses the average temperature + the sheer mass of wire used, it doesn't even detect it! Everything can read fine on the display, even those there was a very very serious hot leg. This has been observed by a few other users too. So yeah. My sensing is that unlike kanthal, contact nickel have some weird net resistance going on. So I'm staying away from contact coils for good.
And yeah, I didn't test to make sure they fire up evenly. Opinions are split around whether it's safe to get nickel hot enough to glow and im choosing to err on the side of caution
Vape quality wise, I don't notice any improvements. But I also came into buying the flask with the expectation that it'll protect me from awful dry hits, and not so much any improvement in vape quality.
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One more question regarding the Nickel wire.....how do you replace the cotton without it distorting and ruing the wraps? I mean nickel wire is so soft that I can't imagine talking out the cotton without totally ruining the coil.
Hi everyone ,
I came here hoping someone might be able to answer a question for me... I love my Fogger v4.0 but every so often it leaks from the air intake holes into my pocket8-o. The holes I'm referring to that are occasionally leaking are the 2 holes that are underneath the sliding air adjustment ring.
I am new to RBA's and this Fogger v4 from FastTech is my very first one. I am in love with the large amount of vapor it produces! But I don't love e juice leaking into my pocket at random times, and I can't quite figure out how to solve this problem.
I'm not sure if this matters, but I'm actually using this on an Ego-C Twist battery which looks pretty hilarious, but it works! I run the Ego at about 3.2v-3.5v. I build the coils at around 3 ohms each for an overall resistance of about 1.5 ohms, and am using braided silica wick. I replace the coil and wick whenever it stops tasting good, around once every 1-2 weeks. Every time I change out the coils/wicks, I give the Fogger a thorough rinse with hot water and let it air dry while I build the coils.
Sorry if that was too much backround info, I can't think of anything else that might be relevant. But with a 344 page thread and counting, I'm hoping someone else has had this issue with the Fogger leaking from the air intake holes and can help me out with a solution.
Thanks very much in advance!
I came here hoping someone might be able to answer a question for me... I love my Fogger v4.0 but every so often it leaks from the air intake holes into my pocket8-o. The holes I'm referring to that are occasionally leaking are the 2 holes that are underneath the sliding air adjustment ring.
I am new to RBA's and this Fogger v4 from FastTech is my very first one. I am in love with the large amount of vapor it produces! But I don't love e juice leaking into my pocket at random times, and I can't quite figure out how to solve this problem.
I'm not sure if this matters, but I'm actually using this on an Ego-C Twist battery which looks pretty hilarious, but it works! I run the Ego at about 3.2v-3.5v. I build the coils at around 3 ohms each for an overall resistance of about 1.5 ohms, and am using braided silica wick. I replace the coil and wick whenever it stops tasting good, around once every 1-2 weeks. Every time I change out the coils/wicks, I give the Fogger a thorough rinse with hot water and let it air dry while I build the coils.
Sorry if that was too much backround info, I can't think of anything else that might be relevant. But with a 344 page thread and counting, I'm hoping someone else has had this issue with the Fogger leaking from the air intake holes and can help me out with a solution.
Thanks very much in advance!
Tye fogger works with a balance of leaking v dry hits .
It's all about your wick, in your case try leaving your silica a tiny bit longer, not much,nuts a little bit , and maybe fry your tips b of your wicks a bit.if you go too far with either of the two methods you'll get dry hits do you want to take it easy.
It's all about your wick, in your case try leaving your silica a tiny bit longer, not much,nuts a little bit , and maybe fry your tips b of your wicks a bit.if you go too far with either of the two methods you'll get dry hits do you want to take it easy.
Forgive me if I sound like a downer...because I really don'y meant to. But I would like to know about the Fogger from actual users. I wanted a Fogger but after some reading I went with a Kayfun lite because the reviews seem to agree that the Fogger is a notorious leak machine. Is that not so? If not the I'll be in the line for the new Fogger as well.
The Fogger will leak like crazy if you don't wick it right. If you do, zero leaks. The 4.1 - 4.4 versions have to be built using dual coils to cover all 4 juice channels. Just had mine for a few days, hated it at first, but loving it now!
All my various kf atties have been collecting dust since my first fv4. None leak, they are all way better. You just have to know how to wick it, we'll help,no problem. Any kf will also leak if you don't know how to wick them .
Yeaaaap. Fogger v4 has a little bit of a learning curve, but once you get past that it's a mighty mighty good vape.
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Rebuilt and rewicked
Using the double inserting method for rayon
On a dna40, 450F, 33watts with AMD's modded v4.3. Warm waaaaarm vape and thick vapor.
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Using the double inserting method for rayon
On a dna40, 450F, 33watts with AMD's modded v4.3. Warm waaaaarm vape and thick vapor.
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Interesting pics, but why don't you compress the coils? Looks like 28g or bigger. I know larger gauge wire doesn't heat up properly on all loops unless you compress the coil. I use this spread out method for my 34g builds, but seems inefficient for larger wire....
I've found that Builds using Ni200 instead of kanthal works terribly when compressed. Funky resistances, extreme hot legs etc
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