From the need for more power comes...

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iuseaspork

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Jul 2, 2011
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A parallel 10440 box. I have switched to low res boge's in tanks and didn't trust my little single mosfet nicostick, so I made a parallel one with the connector external. I really like the form factor of the 2aaa box.

IMG_20120108_233901.jpgIMG_20120108_233933.jpg

Still need to work on the epoxy on the atty connector and paint it up, but she works fine. Anyone used testors model paint with a brush for mods? Tested with a single batt in each bay just to be sure.

Anywho, it's my first one with a LED as well. It did require the absence of the main switch, but the smd switch that I use is recessed enough that there is very little chance of accidental fire.

IMG_20120108_235439.jpgIMG_20120108_235140.jpg

Now to figure out how to get an OKR module in there!?
 

mostlyclassics

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Anyone used testors model paint with a brush for mods?

For that airbrushed look,

  1. Clean surfaces to be painted with soapy dishwater, paper-towel dry, then allow to air dry.
  2. Prime with dull-finish spray paint that uses a different solvent than your Testors. (If your Testors paint is acrylic, then use enamel spray paint, for instance.)
  3. Cut your paint about one part solvent for two parts paint.
  4. Several thin coats are vastly preferable to one thick coat of brushed on paint.
  5. Micro-Mesh pads are great for leveling the final coats.
  6. I've had best results by using flat-finish model paint, then brushing on several coats of thinned Future floor wax. Glossy paints take forever to dry and don't seem to adhere as well as the flat-finish paints. The Future floor wax gives you a fairly hard but semi-flexible surface. It can also be touched up at the wear points.
Hope all this helps!
 
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