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Foxman I dig that huge CFM Cadillac block air chamber, let me dream for a minute...
Shazam! dreams can come true
Thanks for the inspiration 
That Atom thing-amabob increases combustion noticeably instantaneously, with my air direct under wick placement mod.
"AIR" + fuel + power/coil/wick = VAPurrrrrrr
Foxman That VV mod is a monster built worthy of the mass production SRT big block. My VV super ego
does the job for now (I am a newbie), but I shall soon... move to a bigger chassis.
I was busy this evening reconditioning my SS Mesh Tower SRT, Took a bunch of pics & too sleepy to put much together right now from the folder of images.
I can @ least...Here is a mini GIF of the folder:
It loops forever after the smiley face nods 
I was documenting using an ultra sonic cleaner on the mesh to see the effects. there is also some tiny images of "The MERV" in the GIF as well.
Shazam! dreams can come true
Thanks for the inspiration That Atom thing-amabob increases combustion noticeably instantaneously, with my air direct under wick placement mod.
"AIR" + fuel + power/coil/wick = VAPurrrrrrr
Foxman That VV mod is a monster built worthy of the mass production SRT big block. My VV super ego
does the job for now (I am a newbie), but I shall soon... move to a bigger chassis. I was busy this evening reconditioning my SS Mesh Tower SRT, Took a bunch of pics & too sleepy to put much together right now from the folder of images.
I can @ least...Here is a mini GIF of the folder:
It loops forever after the smiley face nods
I was documenting using an ultra sonic cleaner on the mesh to see the effects. there is also some tiny images of "The MERV" in the GIF as well.
Mister I wish I could take credit, but BJ43 was the first that posted about it, lol
The box was in the plans for awhile. Then a freind gave me the DC Mini and got the VIVI in a co-op, so I HAD to go ahead and getter-done, lol I got 2 more Vivi's coming Sat, so I'm going to do 1 w/mesh and try the other w.cotton and see if I can get it to work. Thanx
The box was in the plans for awhile. Then a freind gave me the DC Mini and got the VIVI in a co-op, so I HAD to go ahead and getter-done, lol I got 2 more Vivi's coming Sat, so I'm going to do 1 w/mesh and try the other w.cotton and see if I can get it to work. Thanx
Dunno why but using 32g kanthal I cant make a coil over .8-1.1 ohm. And no matter what I try I can't keep the coil from popping at the top. Tried doubling the wire where the "hot leg" is and still just ....e. This tank in stock form is 1000x better than what i'm tring to do here lol. plz help. ty
drilled the wick hole to 3/32 and moved the thumb screw to the pos also cut the neg screw in half just cause i saw scubabatdan do it lol. Otherwise I haven't changed anything else.
drilled the wick hole to 3/32 and moved the thumb screw to the pos also cut the neg screw in half just cause i saw scubabatdan do it lol. Otherwise I haven't changed anything else.
Are you using a SS mesh wick? If so, it sounds like you're getting a short. You can try the 'cigarette paper' method of oxidizing a SS mesh wick - GENESIS ATOMISER EASY COIL SET UP USING A CIGARETTE PAPER - YouTube
Another option for SS mesh wicks is a SS/cotton 'hybrid' wick - Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick Bluegrasslover's method - YouTube
I'm doing the Cotton Hybrid wick on mine and it brought my juice to life, lol. Brought out the sweet part of mine. plain SS it was muted.
Well the Provari wouldn't fire if it were shorted right? I tried the cig paper once and didn't seem to make a dif. Maybe I should try like 30g wire instead??
You'd want to go to 34g. Larger AWG number = thinner wire (and higer ohms).
The Provari would cut out with a 'dead short', if a few of your coils are shorting out and the others are ok, you wouldn't have a 'dead short'.
Dead short
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Hey, Tom...
I'm not sure what all is at work with shorts and hot links to the positive post. I've been using 34 ga. Kanthal. I that increasing the voltage will bring on the hot wire. I was thinking that by going to a lesser guage/larger size coil wire, I wouldn't need to run the voltage as high to get the same power.
Again, I'm not sure what factors are involved in shorts/hot wires. Voltage = Potential. Amps = Current/Quantity of Electrons Flowing Watts = Power. The ability to draw an arc is, I think inherent in the Voltage. If one is trying to arc across a gap, increasing the Voltage is what makes it happen.
Am I muttering outloud?
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Thinner wire is higher resistance?? Wow I'm a noob... For some reason that goes against logic for me lol. Thanks for the advice.
well i guess now that I think about it, IF you think of the wire as a pipe the smaller "pipe" would take more pressure to flow the same amount of water. Is this correct?
I ordered some 30g before I got an answer... Impatience costs money lol
With the 32 I was doing like 10 coils and still couldn't get it more than 1.1 ohm. I'm gonna be totally boned with this 30g arent I?
I ordered some 30g before I got an answer... Impatience costs money lol
With the 32 I was doing like 10 coils and still couldn't get it more than 1.1 ohm. I'm gonna be totally boned with this 30g arent I?
I may be wrong but it seems to me that a smaller hole would take less pressure. The bigger the hole the more liquid it would it tales to push it thru. But then again I'm not a phycist, lol
If you want more pressure out of your garden hose (w/o a nozzle), what do you do? 
Put your finger over the end to make the opening smaller; same concept with resistance and wire (just don't use your finger, use a smaller wire 
).
@Max - if you're doing 10 wraps and only getting 1 ohm with 32g, then I'd say you are definitely having shorting. With a dry wick/coil, all of the coils should glow fairly evenly when voltage is applied. If some of the coils don't glow then that's where your short is. You can take a needle or pin and move the coils around on the wick a little bit to see if you can eliminate the short.
Cool - hot links (legs, wires) are generally from a too long wire from the wick to the connection. If it's not on the wick, then it isn't being cooled by vaporizing the juice and will get hot and glow. This results in a harsh draw.
If you're having this problem and want it to work because of time, frustration, etc, just take a very small piece of loose cotton and put it over the leg with it also touching the wick. The cotton will get juice from the wick and keep the leg supplied with juice.
Put your finger over the end to make the opening smaller; same concept with resistance and wire (just don't use your finger, use a smaller wire ).@Max - if you're doing 10 wraps and only getting 1 ohm with 32g, then I'd say you are definitely having shorting. With a dry wick/coil, all of the coils should glow fairly evenly when voltage is applied. If some of the coils don't glow then that's where your short is. You can take a needle or pin and move the coils around on the wick a little bit to see if you can eliminate the short.
Cool - hot links (legs, wires) are generally from a too long wire from the wick to the connection. If it's not on the wick, then it isn't being cooled by vaporizing the juice and will get hot and glow. This results in a harsh draw.
If you're having this problem and want it to work because of time, frustration, etc, just take a very small piece of loose cotton and put it over the leg with it also touching the wick. The cotton will get juice from the wick and keep the leg supplied with juice.
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Thanks, Tom. ...was keeping them short, but think there were perhaps matters beyond my understanding at work. That sounds like a very good idea you offered. That helps me to understand what you were recently illustrating. The "Why?" is now gone. ...refreshing with organics for the time being.
Thanks Tom. Would there be a way to tell where I'm shorting?? I've watched loads of videos before I ever decided to even get into rba's. Thought I had it down lol. Could it be I'm not oxidizing my wick properly? heat til red, juice it, then heat, juice 3-4x repeated? Tried the paper too but no dice. Ugh seems so easy in theory but my execution has been sub-par consistently, can't even get one to vape harshly lol. I dunno, prob hard to see what's going on without video. I'll have to get a cam and post something. Honestly prob just trading it off. I've had great success with like the pheonix style with silica wick.
When you first install the wick/coil, do a dry burn. Any coil wraps that don't glow red could be part of the shorts.
To oxidize the wick heat to red, dunk in TAP water, repeat at least 2 more times. If you want after this drip some juice on the wick and light with a cigarette lighter and let burn until it goes out.
The only part of the wick which needs to be oxidized is the part that the coil is touching.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
To oxidize the wick heat to red, dunk in TAP water, repeat at least 2 more times. If you want after this drip some juice on the wick and light with a cigarette lighter and let burn until it goes out.
The only part of the wick which needs to be oxidized is the part that the coil is touching.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Foxman
I had seen the idea floating around, but your endeavors with it actually inspired me to buy it & you can take credit for that The added air increases cloud mass & volume.
"lego cotton cure" by TomCatt, added to my bag of tricks. Although in my case it would be "lego hemp cure".
Here are some bigger pix from my last rebuild.
Theme "I SUNK the GUNK" & my mesh was shiny again.
Disclaimer for the engine used in this demo:
BJ43 seems to = a treasure trove of knowledge, like many here.
I had seen the idea floating around, but your endeavors with it actually inspired me to buy it & you can take credit for that
The added air increases cloud mass & volume."lego cotton cure" by TomCatt, added to my bag of tricks. Although in my case it would be "lego hemp cure".
Here are some bigger pix from my last rebuild.
Theme "I SUNK the GUNK" & my mesh was shiny
again.Disclaimer for the engine used in this demo:
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