Ptfe tubing. A year ago I bought 5 sizes in 5ft length on ebay and that has really helped keep all my genesis running.
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Ptfe tubing. A year ago I bought 5 sizes in 5ft length on ebay and that has really helped keep all my genesis running.
Well the carto condoms is WAY too big. Might try the top peice but so far the shrink tube sound good. Now got to go to Harbor freight tommorrow, lol
Already asked RNO to check, lol. Going to try that if the shrink tube don't work.Ask if they have any silicone washers )
Been vaping it all day and I agree with Dan, it is as good as any genesis I have tried, I have always preferred the "line" because of its small heat chamber, but this with the air hole right under the coil gives the equivalent TH as a "Line". My 6 wraps of 32g gave me a 2.4 ohm and at 4.2v it is giving me the same hit as as the same coil at 5V on the line.
Just spent 35 minutes looking for this setup. I don't have any NR wire so I've gotta do it this way. Thanks BJ !
Did you oxidize the entire SS wick or just the area where the coil is?
I oxidized the entire wick. Its only 25mm long, so would be hard to just oxidize the top half.
That is why I use the rolling paper trick. I wrap the kanthal tight, and during the burn off process, the paper leaves the perfect gap between the SS and the kanthal. The extra carbon from the paper helps to insolate and keep the coil wet.
Dan
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Stock configuration SUX, lol. Most everyone is converting to SS Mesh and it's Great. As good as a genny. Thats what I'm going to do.
Dan and BJ have some simple modifications of this tank earlier in this thread - just scan through for the pics.
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My ST Tank is 'out for delivery.' ...looks like the mesh may not arrive until Monday.
Zonablazer: Since I use a large commercial stove burner to oxidize the wick, it is not very precise. About half the wick. If the coil is not shorting to the wick it doesn't matter if the wick shorts in the base so I just insure that my coil doesn't short.
Well, after the first, abortive attempt to mod ala' #124 (Scubabatdan)-style, I got it..
Well, it worked the first time - but their original coil broke, and the stupid centerpost in the base was shorting out.. I had to use a salvaged silicon ring/gasket from another unit - original lowest, then new - on the bottom post, used some salvaged, heavier wire for the connection - longer - and added some heatshrink to the topmost solderpoint. A heated pin made the new vent, and I just used the smallest convenient drill I could grab for the coil-hole: 1/8", iirc..
It's vaping nice clouds off my semi-Puck, (and this new "Four Star General" ejuice is OK).
I'm not sure it was worth the price or the work, compared to my rewicked (cotton, long) Vivi Nova, but I am going to give this a fair chance. I'd rather figure out how to "recycle" nice 10 & 20cc syringes and DIY them that way.. Oh, and I do not like the SS drip-tip/top smacking my teeth. At least the Nova gave you a top and options.
Well, it worked the first time - but their original coil broke, and the stupid centerpost in the base was shorting out.. I had to use a salvaged silicon ring/gasket from another unit - original lowest, then new - on the bottom post, used some salvaged, heavier wire for the connection - longer - and added some heatshrink to the topmost solderpoint. A heated pin made the new vent, and I just used the smallest convenient drill I could grab for the coil-hole: 1/8", iirc..
It's vaping nice clouds off my semi-Puck, (and this new "Four Star General" ejuice is OK).
I'm not sure it was worth the price or the work, compared to my rewicked (cotton, long) Vivi Nova, but I am going to give this a fair chance. I'd rather figure out how to "recycle" nice 10 & 20cc syringes and DIY them that way.. Oh, and I do not like the SS drip-tip/top smacking my teeth. At least the Nova gave you a top and options.
After several attempts at the scubabatdan method, I have it 'somewhat' working. Really need some NR wire (just ordered). Previous attempt to this one, the top leg got so hot, it ignited the juice! This time I doubled it up. works a little better but still will glow if fired for too long. Having fun with it and this is great practice for the SGM300.
The resistance seems to be changing though. anyone else have this happen?
The resistance seems to be changing though. anyone else have this happen?
You can bend the wick over towards the positive post. That will make the top wire short enough that you don't need NR.
I'm thinking a bit of NR wire doubled over, twisted & wrapped around the screw so that there is a loopd hole to connect the coil onto would be a good idea on the positive end.
Since a lot of people seem to be over tightening the screws & having problems with that part of the build, this way you could avoid unscrewing & screwing every time & prevent damage to the positive side.
The coil wire would just be poked into the loop of the NR wire & wrapped around it, since electricity flows through the path of least resistance, it shouldn't cause any hotspot issues. You would just need to make sure there was a good tight connection in your wraps.
Since a lot of people seem to be over tightening the screws & having problems with that part of the build, this way you could avoid unscrewing & screwing every time & prevent damage to the positive side.
The coil wire would just be poked into the loop of the NR wire & wrapped around it, since electricity flows through the path of least resistance, it shouldn't cause any hotspot issues. You would just need to make sure there was a good tight connection in your wraps.
ST Atty arrived today. As expected, no SS Mesh...Monday.
I removed the silica wick and wound a Kanthal 34 ga. coil around a #2/0 square cotton candle wick. The job of stuffing it through the wick holes was tedious. None the less, I arrived at a 4.0 Ohm creation. Some juggling of bottles produced a 10 ml hard bottle with a needle cap. The remainder of my next to last 30 ml bottle of GoodeJuice GJ4 went into that. While tight, I was able to insert it into a wick hole and fill the chamber.
There it sits in all its shiney glory and it's time to cook dinner.
I removed the silica wick and wound a Kanthal 34 ga. coil around a #2/0 square cotton candle wick. The job of stuffing it through the wick holes was tedious. None the less, I arrived at a 4.0 Ohm creation. Some juggling of bottles produced a 10 ml hard bottle with a needle cap. The remainder of my next to last 30 ml bottle of GoodeJuice GJ4 went into that. While tight, I was able to insert it into a wick hole and fill the chamber.
There it sits in all its shiney glory and it's time to cook dinner.
I finally got a SS wick to work, my first attempt was a mess for some reason. Can't say if I really like it anymore than the cotton one I was using before. I guess the durability will be nice, even though the cotton has held up for a week now and still is sitting ready to go if needed.
I am actually going to make a little bracket/extension out of stainless I have so I will not need to use nr wire or curve my SS wick. It will fasten below the knurled price (center post mod), slant up and then go back over to under the screw head. Then a simple screw hole and maybe a groove to ease with wire placement and it should be ready to go. I will post a pic once it is done.
I am actually going to make a little bracket/extension out of stainless I have so I will not need to use nr wire or curve my SS wick. It will fasten below the knurled price (center post mod), slant up and then go back over to under the screw head. Then a simple screw hole and maybe a groove to ease with wire placement and it should be ready to go. I will post a pic once it is done.
Yeah, like 48 cents more ... woop dee doo.
And thats not subtracting the cost of silica.
Dan
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