Sorry to hear about your fingers. I may have to get a 25 Griffin too. Did you get the top airflow?
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Geekvape Griffin RTA!
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Thanks, but there's no need to be sorry. I didn't even notice it till this morning. Just pointing it out for you guys.
I went with the without top airflow. I did want the top airflow and was prepared to spend the extra AUD$10-14 for it, but the shop didn't have any left. I could've changed shops but it would cost even more. I don't reckon I would've used it, but later on I'll purchase the top airflow cap separately, when it's released.
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I have had the Griffin RTA for only a few days, and let me tell you it's fantastic. The airflow is very nice, flavor is killer, and it sucks like a beast. I have not gotten one dry hit yet, even under Chaim vaping. Build is a .31 dual Clapton.
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Just got my Griffin today, had to order via the net.......... oddly neither of the two vape shops in town had one. I put 2 1ohm Clapton coils in, for a .5ohm reading and mixed up some Capella Glazed Doughnut in 70/30 VG/PG............ man o man do I love this tank already, and I have only had it for an hour.
Hi all,
New member in search for information on my issue with Griffin's positive post.
After I've removed my fist set of coils, I've noticed that positive post is a bit wobbly. After trying to screw it a bit more to fix it, it simply fell off.
After a lot of trying, I've noticed that center pin is in 2 parts, with lower part being screwed in upper part.
Idea is that if I somehow manage to disassemble the base, I should be able to separately screw upper portion of pin into positive post, assemble base back and screw bottom portion of center pin.
Has anybody done that and how, since there are some people who said it is doable, but nobody explained how?
Thanks in advace.
New member in search for information on my issue with Griffin's positive post.
After I've removed my fist set of coils, I've noticed that positive post is a bit wobbly. After trying to screw it a bit more to fix it, it simply fell off.
After a lot of trying, I've noticed that center pin is in 2 parts, with lower part being screwed in upper part.
Idea is that if I somehow manage to disassemble the base, I should be able to separately screw upper portion of pin into positive post, assemble base back and screw bottom portion of center pin.
Has anybody done that and how, since there are some people who said it is doable, but nobody explained how?
Thanks in advace.
I've not taken it apart but have several, it looks like the deck center pin has a bolt-type hex head on one side and the threaded portion for the positive side of the velocity deck on the other. It's my understanding that it's 'mostly' press fit so it is probably a pain to take apart (and get back together) to access the underside of the deck. Attached is a pic of the center pin people are selling as replacements. I'd think that since there are parts like that out there that it's possibly to disassemble, but I've not seen any good diagrams showing disassembly further than down to the base.
*I also PMd you with some additional information I found.
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So I just went to fill my griff for probably the fifth time. Maybe more in this build. Juice control and air control closed. Unscrewed the top and saw a ton of air bubbles come out of the juice control. Thought that was weird. Filled it. Put it all back together and leak city.
Any ideas on why all of a sudden I'm experiencing leaking when I took the top off? Did my wick move? That's my only thought.
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Any ideas on why all of a sudden I'm experiencing leaking when I took the top off? Did my wick move? That's my only thought.
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Sometimes if I have too much cotton in the RDA section when I put the top cap and chimney on if it goes on tight or gives you issue, it may be pulling at the cotton and dislodge one of your wicks, and cause the leak.
I trim my wicks close to the RDA deck, use my smallest screwdriver to push a small amount of wick into the juice wells, then push the rest of the cotton close to the coils.
Yeah it was weird. I hadn't touched anything. Just went and filled it and leakage. Didn't pull the deck and it had been filling no problem for about 5 or more fills. Weird. Filled it again today. No problems.
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Leaking after refilling has occurred with my Griff in the past; however, not as of recent. It may be down to wicking yet again. I trim and rest the cotton on the ring and tuck a small amount of its tails behind the ring. In the past I have tried other methods, such as thinning out the tails and running them to the bottom of the juice flow holes; however, they are more time consuming methods.
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I just got a Griffin (22mm) and trying to get warmer vapes. I get an OK amount of vapor, no leaking, but the vapes are cool. I'm using temp control, so no dry hits, but without TC maybe I would get dry hits, who knows...
My build is dual SS304, 9 wraps, 3.0mm, .35 ohms, Ko Gen Do cotton, with JFC and AFC open. Juice is 70vg/30pg.
Using a VTC-Mini running 480°F, 68W, TCR:105.
I trimmed down the wicking ends, so I could position them rather loosely just inside the ring, which helped a bit, but I'm still not getting the warm vapes I'm looking for. I get OK vapor production, but it's not a warm, rich vape. Closing down the AFC doesn't help.
What am I doing wrong? I really want to love this tank.
My build is dual SS304, 9 wraps, 3.0mm, .35 ohms, Ko Gen Do cotton, with JFC and AFC open. Juice is 70vg/30pg.
Using a VTC-Mini running 480°F, 68W, TCR:105.
I trimmed down the wicking ends, so I could position them rather loosely just inside the ring, which helped a bit, but I'm still not getting the warm vapes I'm looking for. I get OK vapor production, but it's not a warm, rich vape. Closing down the AFC doesn't help.
What am I doing wrong? I really want to love this tank.
Increase your tcr. I've noticed that 110 seems to work better for ss304 on Joyetech/Wismec devices.I just got a Griffin (22mm) and trying to get warmer vapes. I get an OK amount of vapor, no leaking, but the vapes are cool. I'm using temp control, so no dry hits, but without TC maybe I would get dry hits, who knows...
My build is dual SS304, 9 wraps, 3.0mm, .35 ohms, Ko Gen Do cotton, with JFC and AFC open. Juice is 70vg/30pg.
Using a VTC-Mini running 480°F, 68W, TCR:105.
I trimmed down the wicking ends, so I could position them rather loosely just inside the ring, which helped a bit, but I'm still not getting the warm vapes I'm looking for. I get OK vapor production, but it's not a warm, rich vape. Closing down the AFC doesn't help.
What am I doing wrong? I really want to love this tank.
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Everyone please sign this petition. It's very important for all of us.
U.S. Senate, U.S. House of Representatives, President of the United States: Reject the FDA's Deeming of Vapor Products as Tobacco Products
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U.S. Senate, U.S. House of Representatives, President of the United States: Reject the FDA's Deeming of Vapor Products as Tobacco Products
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Thanks. After increasing tcr, changing temp just a little seems too much, if that makes any sense. I went back to TCR:105, and increased temp, and now I'm getting OK Vapes.
It's weird, as after going back down to 480F, it's still ok. Maybe my wicking is working better now, or this VTC-mini is sometimes flakey. Im considering trying different wire or getting a DNA200 mod.
the DNA200 mod with SS316L in TC has been performing rather flawlessly.
Yesterday, due to user error, was wondering why I couldn't get any vapor in TC and just kept on firing the mod. Switched it to power mode at 35W took a toke and it was the worst burnt vapor I've ever experienced. Then realized JFC was closed. Glad to know the function is working as intended.
Yesterday, due to user error, was wondering why I couldn't get any vapor in TC and just kept on firing the mod. Switched it to power mode at 35W took a toke and it was the worst burnt vapor I've ever experienced. Then realized JFC was closed. Glad to know the function is working as intended.
Have any of you closed the juice flow holes part way? I've noticed that with 40 PG/60 VG juice I need to close them half way to avoid flooding. I still never get a "Dry Hit" even when chain vaping.
With my wicking method, I keep them closed off just a little on the Griffin 25, probably about 90% open, and full open on the Griffin 22 - that's with 80-85% VG. Haven't tried anything over 90% VG in the Griffin 25, but I think it would handle it just fine.
A lot of the newer sub-ohm tanks are designed for max VG liquids, so it kinda makes sense that 40% PG is wicking great at half open. I'm pretty sure one could vape pure VG in them. Of course, your wicking may vary.
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A lot of the newer sub-ohm tanks are designed for max VG liquids, so it kinda makes sense that 40% PG is wicking great at half open. I'm pretty sure one could vape pure VG in them. Of course, your wicking may vary.
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with the 22mm griffin I didn't have to. I vape 50/50 sometimes and there wasn't any flooding.
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