*GEM: A new RTA by MarkBugs
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You shouldn't have too much of a problem with a 26g coil as long as you can get a tight loops on the legs to the posts however, I wouldn't go with anything much larger than a 2mm coil. If you look above you'll see what I'm running. At 0.5 you may find that the flavor will suffer a bit given the size of the air intake with the additional heat, but it won't hurt to give it a shot.
By the way, Long slow lung hit or MTL, the flavor is amazing and the vapor production is pretty decent as well @ 1.0
Thanks for the input. It's not necessary I go with .5 ohm however its what I seem to be enjoying as of lately in a kanger subtank rba. With the airflow restricted to one hole its a decent mtl experience. I have 26,27,28 gauge so will be trying various builds on the GEM.
sedge, how many wraps and what are your ohms with 26? What kind of wattage are you using with this?
The Sub Tanks are a completely different animal from the Gem. Something to keep in mind...
Being willing to toss various builds at any atty is good thing for sure. 
That is the only sad thing about this atty. Actually many more also come like that. However, I seriously think any atty (or mod) should come with a small spares baggy, of the essentials.
It'd be wise to grab some spares as well while purchasing ~ but unfortunately none are yet available at the site/s. MB shall be stocking the spares shortly (including with the resellers), purchasable at a small fee.
I have had great successes with 28AWG at 2.4mm. In the 1 Ohm mark. Vapes astoundingly.
qorax .... I always enjoy the quality photos you post of your various atomizers.
Question: I noticed that many of them have "qorax" engraved in various places on them. Do you have that done locally at some kind of an engraving business?
If I might ask ... what is the average price you pay to have your ECF member-name engraved on stainless parts of an atty?
Thanks,
Question: I noticed that many of them have "qorax" engraved in various places on them. Do you have that done locally at some kind of an engraving business?
If I might ask ... what is the average price you pay to have your ECF member-name engraved on stainless parts of an atty?
Thanks,
ha, I never even thought of that, I just figured the modders love him so much that they each personalize them just for him 
Thank you dear!
1. Qorax is my ID for everything, not just online, and not just for ECF.
2. The engravings are done by the modders themselves as a special request.
Thank you sir. And yes, that's the case I believeha, I never even thought of that, I just figured the modders love him so much that they each personalize them just for him
We all love the mighty Q!!ha, I never even thought of that, I just figured the modders love him so much that they each personalize them just for him
Titanium wire in my GEMS working nicely with DNA40 and Temperature Control. 26g 2.4mm 5 wraps slightly spaced .23-.24 ohms.
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I received my Gem yesterday and spent a few hours learning the assembly and building a few different coils. First off, I wanted to thank Qorax for taking the time to provide all the information he has about this RTA and his excellent videos, which helped me get the tank up, and running.
My first coil went perfect 28 gauge 6 wrap 2.4mm coming in around 1 ohm, no shorts no problems. Second Coil 26 gauge 6 wraps 2.4mm built the same way reverse mounting the coil and making sure it was low in the deck. I was confident it was not touching any of the sides or bottom of the deck. The coil fires up fine however once mounted in the deck I get the "Atomizer Low" so something is shorting. I tried raising, lowering many times however no matter what I could not get it to stop shorting. I decided to pull the coil out and build a 2.4 mm 6 wrap 27-gauge coil. Once again, same problem, it fires up fine however, as soon as I mount it in the deck it begins to short. I tried all the same things again raising, lowering, etc. and it keeps shorting. I than remembered someone saying that you might have to really tighten the screws down on the coil with anything lower than 28 gauge. After screwing them down ridiculously tight it is now working with a 27 gauge 2.4mm .7-ohm coil. Tonight I am going to give a 26-gauge coil a shot again now that I realize my problem all along has been how tight you need to tighten the screws.
I have never had to tighten screws down this tight on any RTA and the last thing I want to do is damage or strip them out by doing this. Have others been doing the same thing? I do not see this occurring with 28 gauge however 26-27 it seems as though this might be the case.
Another question is filling this RTA. I have had flooding and leaking out the air hole and I am sure it is something I am doing wrong in the filling process. I have never used a top filling device so this process is a bit new to me. In the video by Qorax I believe he indicates to close the air flow, take the top cap off, fill to 90%, (screw top cap back on only half way, this is the part that was not clear to me or maybe I misunderstood), flip tank upside down and open air hole and while upside down fully tighten air hole.
Last question is it normal that the airflow moves quite easily, there does not seem to be much resistance to it. I doubt this will be a problem however, I could see it moving a bit while in my pocket.
Finally, while I have only vaped on it for a bit the performance of this is amazing. I am simply amazed at its small size, build quality, flavor, and even vapor production. I am quite confident once I learn this tank better it will be my favorite RTA.
My first coil went perfect 28 gauge 6 wrap 2.4mm coming in around 1 ohm, no shorts no problems. Second Coil 26 gauge 6 wraps 2.4mm built the same way reverse mounting the coil and making sure it was low in the deck. I was confident it was not touching any of the sides or bottom of the deck. The coil fires up fine however once mounted in the deck I get the "Atomizer Low" so something is shorting. I tried raising, lowering many times however no matter what I could not get it to stop shorting. I decided to pull the coil out and build a 2.4 mm 6 wrap 27-gauge coil. Once again, same problem, it fires up fine however, as soon as I mount it in the deck it begins to short. I tried all the same things again raising, lowering, etc. and it keeps shorting. I than remembered someone saying that you might have to really tighten the screws down on the coil with anything lower than 28 gauge. After screwing them down ridiculously tight it is now working with a 27 gauge 2.4mm .7-ohm coil. Tonight I am going to give a 26-gauge coil a shot again now that I realize my problem all along has been how tight you need to tighten the screws.
I have never had to tighten screws down this tight on any RTA and the last thing I want to do is damage or strip them out by doing this. Have others been doing the same thing? I do not see this occurring with 28 gauge however 26-27 it seems as though this might be the case.
Another question is filling this RTA. I have had flooding and leaking out the air hole and I am sure it is something I am doing wrong in the filling process. I have never used a top filling device so this process is a bit new to me. In the video by Qorax I believe he indicates to close the air flow, take the top cap off, fill to 90%, (screw top cap back on only half way, this is the part that was not clear to me or maybe I misunderstood), flip tank upside down and open air hole and while upside down fully tighten air hole.
Last question is it normal that the airflow moves quite easily, there does not seem to be much resistance to it. I doubt this will be a problem however, I could see it moving a bit while in my pocket.
Finally, while I have only vaped on it for a bit the performance of this is amazing. I am simply amazed at its small size, build quality, flavor, and even vapor production. I am quite confident once I learn this tank better it will be my favorite RTA.
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The AFC ring movement is restricted by a segment of a 1.5mm o-ring pushed through the little hole. If it is missing just cut a piece a little longer so it sticks out above/below the AFC ring surface. If you have this piece and still moves to easily then cut another piece from a 1.5mm o-ring just slightly longer to add more resistance and making it tighter for the AFC to move.
The AFC ring movement is restricted by a segment of a 1.5mm o-ring pushed through the little hole. If it is missing just cut a piece a little longer so it sticks out above/below the AFC ring surface. If you have this piece and still moves to easily then cut another piece from a 1.5mm o-ring just slightly longer to add more resistance and making it tighter for the AFC to move.
I will give this a try tonight. If I remember correctly the oring was flush with the AFC ring and did not stick out at all. Thanks for the feedback.
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