*GEM: A new RTA by MarkBugs

[TX Foilhead]

Mine doesn't line up, it off to the side enough to miss all the buttons when it leaks. I always try to leave mine on its side or at least at an angle just incase something like that were to happen. That's most liky the reason I still have 2 tanks as well.

 

[Freedom2Vape]

Just a heads up and something to be carful of. I've been using my GEM on Bugs Wizard Apprentice Evolved since they both came out. Love the combination and use it daily. However this morning I discovered my GEM leaked last night and the liquid ran down directly on to and in to the firing button. The air hole lines up directly above the firing button, at least it does on mine. More to the point......, now my LED does not show, as in it is completely dark and blank. The GEM appears to be firing, however it appears to be at very low watts, perhaps the lowest setting (7 watts) and it will not adjust back up. Even if it did I would have now way of knowing what the wattage is. Not sure yet to do about this. Buying another WAE is not an option at $299. I have sent Mark an email, waiting to hear back from him.
If I get my WEA repaired or replaced, I will be sure to remove the GEM at night when I put it away in the event that it might leak again down the tube and into the device. :-(

Thank you for the heads up. I've been using mine in hybrid mode on the WE II and haven't had any leaking issues. Did it leak from the AFC? Mostly my AFC is closed (to the point you can't see the hole - but I can still perform a restricted LH. Is this normal?) and in hybrid mode, the Gem's AF is above, just to the left of the firing button. I'm wondering if closing the AFC completely would prevent/minimize this?

 

[h00ligan]

Arrived today with orings and deck screws. He's sending me a new deck and tanks for the old one. I've asked for spares too for that one. I assume the titanium ones are going to cost a lot more money. :/ either way stainless is fine for me. I also embarrassingly after seeing this one built. Realized I was doing something wrong. :/


Oh and the air hole lines up on this one properly. The top cap has a longer screw portion on the bottom too. At least eye balling it. And it really looks different. So I'll measure if I can or take a side by side picture. (It's an optical illusion die to a difference in metal coloring see below)

It's an optical illusion. I don't know what different. The shade of metal or something. The shade of the metal is different. Is his a naturally occurring phenomenon in steel? Or maybe he chose some other supplier ? One has a reddish tint he other a bluish tint. At least to my eyes.

Vapinart knew they were getting more stainless ones at least six plus weeks ago. Fwiw.

 

[DoubleTap1]

Ah, yes, the rare leaking around the 510 screw on the GEM.
Hope you'll get it sorted out.

R

No it didn't leak from the 510 connection, it leaked from the AFC and that is not rare. It just so happens that my AFC lines up perfectly above the firing button. When it decided to leak over night, it drained over and suspect in the firing button and housing. in any case, now the LED is blacked out and the WEA is barely functional.

 

[nester]

Leaking from afc is caused by not good enough setup, you have to work on it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Leaking from afc is caused by not good enough setup, you have to work on it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im sure we are all grateful for that incisive and helpful insight provide on your 5th post since joing in 2012...

 

[h00ligan]

Super tight wick in the middle that's super short and barely flows into the channels. I posted some pics a few pages back. Never had a leak or dry hit since wicking that way

 

[nester]

Im sure we are all grateful for that incisive and helpful insight provide on your 5th post since joing in 2012...

Hehe meaby 5th post here but i know this and that about stuff since 2009
I didnt wanted to elaborate what may be the problem, but im sure you also know that every rta will leak if setup is incorrect Its not a gem's fault.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SavePaperVapor]

N

Hehe meaby 5th post here but i know this and that about stuff since 2009
I didnt wanted to elaborate what may be the problem, but im sure you also know that every rta will leak if setup is incorrect Its not a gem's fault.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ow you're just padding your stats. lol

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Arrived today with orings and deck screws. He's sending me a new deck and tanks for the old one. I've asked for spares too for that one. I assume the titanium ones are going to cost a lot more money. :/ either way stainless is fine for me. I also embarrassingly after seeing this one built. Realized I was doing something wrong. :/


Oh and the air hole lines up on this one properly. The top cap has a longer screw portion on the bottom too. At least eye balling it. And it really looks different. So I'll measure if I can or take a side by side picture. (It's an optical illusion die to a difference in metal coloring see below)

It's an optical illusion. I don't know what different. The shade of metal or something. The shade of the metal is different. Is his a naturally occurring phenomenon in steel? Or maybe he chose some other supplier ? One has a reddish tint he other a bluish tint. At least to my eyes.

Vapinart knew they were getting more stainless ones at least six plus weeks ago. Fwiw.

looking good! What is the serial number of the new one out of interest??

 

[BulletStopper]

Super tight wick in the middle that's super short and barely flows into the channels. I posted some pics a few pages back. Never had a leak or dry hit since wicking that way

Tight wick stopped my leaks (mostly) as well. next time I rewick will go even more cotton - make it super tight.

 

[h00ligan]

Yah. And then barely any tails if you will.


Where do I find the serial to answer that question. Sorry ever noticed a serial number before.

 

[BadTrainDriver]

I just ordered mine from Vapinart and it will arrive on Friday. Will it have the spare parts or do I need to order that à la carte?

FYI, I ordered a Gem from Vapinart today, and a spare parts bag is included.
http://www.vapinart.com/cart/mobile/GEM-RTA-by-Mark-Bugs-P1944.aspx

 

[h00ligan]

Yah hats where my second one posted earlier is from.

Here are the detailed pics in the super thick middle part. I think I captured it better here. You can see I even have room to lay a micro screwdriver in the channels with the touch of cotton in there. It makes s fluffy top

Sorry this is repeat photos but it's a definitive guide to wicking ANYTHING and not leaking. Or dry hitting and I don't feel I got good enough pics before. So one final time for anyone having issues. Here's how I wick and it works amazingly.

Thick cotton pulled all the way up and then cut level with the deck screws

Tuck the ends tightly in the channels. There are some long bits but it's not thick.

Finally when you moisten the wick it falls down level with the deck screws.

Sorry again for those who have sat through this. I wanted to make sure I shared the best way I could. I promise his is it! And I hope it helps.

 

[Plutoker]

FYI, I ordered a Gem from Vapinart today, and a spare parts bag is included.
http://www.vapinart.com/cart/mobile/GEM-RTA-by-Mark-Bugs-P1944.aspx

Thanks, I got mine today from them as well and it included the bag. The setup took a few minutes but wasn't too bad and the flavor is fantastic.

looking good! What is the serial number of the new one out of interest??

I didn't see a serial anywhere on the device. Where should I be looking?

 

[h00ligan]

Yah I've yet to find a small RTA with better flavor. I'd argue the gt2 is pretty close but bigger. And it has to be wicked rift to taste as good. And the air has to be cranked shut to about 2/1

 

[DoubleTap1]

N

ow you're just padding your stats. lol

Just a follow up. First allow me to say, I have owned my GEM since the hour it was released. So I'm also no stranger to wicking it. Most of the time it's right on the money. Can't say why this time it leaked, but it wasn't leaking to the best of my knowledge while I was using it. The leaking occurred over night and discovered the following morning when I picked it up and noticed a small puddle under it. Yes wicking was most likely the culprit but the reason for my post was just a caution for everyone to be aware that leaking fluid down the side can and will get into the DNA Housing as it did in my case. Basically it caused an internal short, sticky firing button and a black-out display. In other words it was not only a mess on the outside but inside as well including the battery.
The results: I was sure in a last ditch effort I could send it back to Mark and get it repaired and I should mention he responded back to me within 12 hours. Since my WAE and GEM are my steady squeeze I was driven to attempt repairing it myself. If all else failed I was prepared to put it in the mail.
As most of you know, water seems to be the most effective method for removing sticky liquid spills, but that said I was very hesitant to get water inside the brain center (DNA Housing). Realizing I had little other choice, I proceeded to open up both ends of the housing. After peering inside I could clearly see the entire guts were soaked with liquid. Having second thoughts about what I was going to do next, I ran it under warm water in one end and out the other, ya Yikes!!!
Well I'm happy and perhaps lucky it worked! The warm water washed out all the liquid and unstuck the firing button as well as the inside of the LED Screen. Took it over to my compressor and gently blew it out as best I could. Being new to brain surgery, needless to say I didn't know if my patent was going to make it, and I still had to reassemble it. One my first try I noticed the LED read-out was coming on and off and sometimes fading or not working at all. I was beginning to think It was a lost cause. Apparently there was still just a trace of moisture but also the end caps at each end have to adjusted just right to make proper contact of the 510 as well as the spacing for the battery tube to screw down without excessive gaps. For a novice like me it took a little fiddling around to adjust the end caps to the right position. The bottom line is that the WAE survived, the LED window is crystal clear and everything is up and running again. I don't advocate this as a recommended fix but in my case it was my last ditch attempt to clean out my "stuff". I have to say it looks like new again even before I had this problem and it working like new.
P.S. This isn't the first time some traces of liquid get to the insides. A few months ago I flew to Hawaii and had my set up in my carry bag. After landing once outside the terminal I discovered my rig was sticky feeling and my LED was acting up. Cabin pressure caused some leaking and the leaking got inside.
So lesson learned? As someone has already mentioned, take your GEM or any atty off your WAE when you're not using it as a precaution.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Thanks, I got mine today from them as well and it included the bag. The setup took a few minutes but wasn't too bad and the flavor is fantastic.


I didn't see a serial anywhere on the device. Where should I be looking?

That was a bum steer from me I think. I assumed the GEM would be serialised as are the wizards from MB but it seems they aren't. At least I cant find one on mine either!
Anyway, glad you got the spares!

 

[Plutoker]

Just a follow up. First allow me to say, I have owned my GEM since the hour it was released. So I'm also no stranger to wicking it. Most of the time it's right on the money. Can't say why this time it leaked, but it wasn't leaking to the best of my knowledge while I was using it. The leaking occurred over night and discovered the following morning when I picked it up and noticed a small puddle under it. Yes wicking was most likely the culprit but the reason for my post was just a caution for everyone to be aware that leaking fluid down the side can and will get into the DNA Housing as it did in my case. Basically it caused an internal short, sticky firing button and a black-out display. In other words it was not only a mess on the outside but inside as well including the battery.
The results: I was sure in a last ditch effort I could send it back to Mark and get it repaired and I should mention he responded back to me within 12 hours. Since my WAE and GEM are my steady squeeze I was driven to attempt repairing it myself. If all else failed I was prepared to put it in the mail.
As most of you know, water seems to be the most effective method for removing sticky liquid spills, but that said I was very hesitant to get water inside the brain center (DNA Housing). Realizing I had little other choice, I proceeded to open up both ends of the housing. After peering inside I could clearly see the entire guts were soaked with liquid. Having second thoughts about what I was going to do next, I ran it under warm water in one end and out the other, ya Yikes!!!
Well I'm happy and perhaps lucky it worked! The warm water washed out all the liquid and unstuck the firing button as well as the inside of the LED Screen. Took it over to my compressor and gently blew it out as best I could. Being new to brain surgery, needless to say I didn't know if my patent was going to make it, and I still had to reassemble it. One my first try I noticed the LED read-out was coming on and off and sometimes fading or not working at all. I was beginning to think It was a lost cause. Apparently there was still just a trace of moisture but also the end caps at each end have to adjusted just right to make proper contact of the 510 as well as the spacing for the battery tube to screw down without excessive gaps. For a novice like me it took a little fiddling around to adjust the end caps to the right position. The bottom line is that the WAE survived, the LED window is crystal clear and everything is up and running again. I don't advocate this as a recommended fix but in my case it was my last ditch attempt to clean out my "stuff". I have to say it looks like new again even before I had this problem and it working like new.
P.S. This isn't the first time some traces of liquid get to the insides. A few months ago I flew to Hawaii and had my set up in my carry bag. After landing once outside the terminal I discovered my rig was sticky feeling and my LED was acting up. Cabin pressure caused some leaking and the leaking got inside.
So lesson learned? As someone has already mentioned, take your GEM or any atty off your WAE when you're not using it as a precaution.

I'd suggest in the future using iso alcohol and a q-tip. It will clean up everything much safer than with water and drys fast. You might throw your mod in a bag of rice to help absorb any remaining moisture.

 

[DoubleTap1]

I'd suggest in the future using iso alcohol and a q-tip. It will clean up everything much safer than with water and drys fast. You might throw your mod in a bag of rice to help absorb any remaining moisture.

I agree but at the time I didn't have any iso alcohol and this was a job where a q-tip wouldn't have been enough. I needed to completely rinse it out. Though I agree with you, in this case the liquid was soaked everywhere inside the brain center. To be honest the water worked surprising well but the rice is a good idea, just that I was in the mode of wanting to get it back together and didn't want to wait. Evaporation might have left the an iso alcohol residue on the inside of the LED screen, not sure though. But all is well and spotless clean.