genny, she's hott

[vapdivrr]

i remember in a few instances of people saying how hot their gennys were. i had seen a couple of repys to this question. i would like to add another. i usually wrap my coils in all my devices clockwise, and also wrap around the top nut in the same direction (clockwise). recently on my DID atty for some reason i wrapped my coil clockwise, but made the connection to the top nut counter clockwise. this makes the top wire come around the back of the wick before making the connection, sort of cutting across the back of the wick. i did not notice this at first, what i did notice was that my genny was unusually hot. i thought that my wick was to high and that it was to close to the top cap. so i decided to re-coil and when i did, thats when i noticed my unusual wrap direction. i re-wrapped to my usual way and now shes cool. i am pretty sure this was the culprit. because the top wire came around the back of the wick, close to the top of the center post, i believe it had made the whole positive post to heat up, then heating up the top cap. if you keep the direction of the wraps the same, the top wire doesnt go around , thus not heating up that point of the positive post. i am not 100% sure this was the problem. one might say, what should this matter, all the coils go around the back of the wick, this is true but if the highest coil is not cutting behind the wick, the positive post looses some of that heat towards the top.i know this may be splitting hairs, but how many of you guys change the direction of your wrap at the top connection, going from one direction around the wick to another direction at the top nut?

 

[Thrasher]

interesting... i go counterclockwise only because the hole i choose on the cobra the neg screw is on the left and then counter at the top also and my coil goes off the outside of the wick into the nut - only time it gets hot is excessive chaining.

 

[vapdivrr]

interesting... i go counterclockwise only because the hole i choose on the cobra the neg screw is on the left and then counter at the top also and my coil goes off the outside of the wick into the nut - only time it gets hot is excessive chaining.

yes, goes off the outside of wick into the nut, like you said,and is what most people probably do, and i think is correct, if anything a slight kink behind, but thats just it. just curious if some do change direction, and if they might expierience some hotter temps to see if this theory is correct.

 

[Thrasher]

when i first started the consensus i picked up was pass the centerpost and come around the opposite direction.

lol i was just to lazy to care and just wound the coil right into the nut, as i didnt see a difference, but a lot of vids say come back the opposite direction.


it would be interesting to hear some other results though.

 

[Rule62]

I wrap clockwise, but go around the top of the center post counter clockwise. I've been wrapping this way since early on. It makes sense, to me anyway, to keep the top coil wrap in contact with the wick as long as possible, reducing the free space the wire travels before making the positive connection. I've since noticed that Zen recommends connecting this way in his videos.

 

[vapdivrr]

I wrap clockwise, but go around the top of the center post counter clockwise. I've been wrapping this way since early on. It makes sense, to me anyway, to keep the top coil wrap in contact with the wick as long as possible, reducing the free space the wire travels before making the positive connection. I've since noticed that Zen recommends connecting this way in his videos.

and i guess your genny doesnt get to hot, because this has worked for you. so there goes my theory. but then again if you are using different wire/ohms/volts, it could be a bad comparison.

 

[j4mmin42]

I have enough devices that each one gets a slightly different build, but for the most part, I wrap clockwise around the positive screw- it helps to tighten the rest of the wraps up a bit when you tighten the positive screw (or nut, or whatever). My devices seem to pick and choose if and when they heat up- sometimes, it's due to super-low resistance; Other times, it has to do with the switch assembly (like the NGP 3, which has a MOSFET capacitative circuit in the switch). And sometimes it just happens for no reason. I've never thought twice about it, really. If a device was to get REALLY hot, that's an issue- and it means that you're essentially wasting your batteries on excess heat energy.

Interestingly, my favorite and best-performing device (the iHybrid) never heats up, no matter how insanely low the resistance of the coil is.

 

[Rule62]

and i guess your genny doesnt get to hot, because this has worked for you. so there goes my theory. but then again if you are using different wire/ohms/volts, it could be a bad comparison.

I don't know if they get any hotter because of the reverse at the top; because I have nothing to compare to. I have a dozen or so wrapped this way. But I use 32ga kanthal A1, and my coils are always ~2.0Ω. I vape anywhere between 9.0 and 11.0 watts, depending on the juice.

 

[vapdivrr]

I don't know if they get any hotter because of the reverse at the top; because I have nothing to compare to. I have a dozen or so wrapped this way. But I use 32ga kanthal A1, and my coils are always ~2.0Ω. I vape anywhere between 9.0 and 11.0 volts, depending on the juice.

yah, im not sure if it makes the difference, maybe it was just a bad coil. but when i did change the direction, the heat difference was quite noticable.

 

[Rule62]

Oops. I meant 9.0 to 11.0 watts, not volts, in my previous post. I edited it, but couldn't change it in your quote.

 

[Scottinboca]

Same results here! I always do the opposite direction when it comes to the positive and the ground screw for some reason. Like Thrasher only when I chain vape like crazy will my DID get warm. My DID never gets hot.

interesting... i go counterclockwise only because the hole i choose on the cobra the neg screw is on the left and then counter at the top also and my coil goes off the outside of the wick into the nut - only time it gets hot is excessive chaining.

 

[EDO]

vapdivr...when you wrap opposite direction on the DID positive post you don't tighten the top nut...but rather you screw the middle nut to go up and meet the top nut....that way you don't loosen the top coil....causing it to get real hot. When you tighten the middle nut upwards...it actually pulls the wire slightly towards the center post....tightening the top coil.

 

[MikeA5]

I've had good luck using the following method: If the ground screw is to the right of the SS wick I wrap the coil clockwise and when wrapping to the positive post I wrap in the direction so that when I tighten the positive post nut it does not draw the coil closer to the post and dig the wire into the wick. If the ground screw is to the left of the SS wick I wrap the coil counter clockwise and when wrapping to the positive post I wrap in the direction so that when I tighten the positive post nut it does not draw the coil closer to the post and dig the wire into the wick. YMMV

 

[vapdivrr]

vapdivr...when you wrap opposite direction on the DID positive post you don't tighten the top nut...but rather you screw the middle nut to go up and meet the top nut....that way you don't loosen the top coil....causing it to get real hot. When you tighten the middle nut upwards...it actually pulls the wire slightly towards the center post....tightening the top coil.

yes, i do these, am really conscious of not loosening or over tightening the top coil. and most of the time i do screw up the lower nut. i think a couple of factors come into play if the top wire cutting across the back of wick, making it hot theory, one- its seems to be just the did atty, where in mine i have a solid nut configuration up and down my center post (no gaps) and it is all brass. it is possible that the last top wire cutting across the back of the wick (sort of diagonally) is in close proximity to the top portion of the PP, creating more heat to that area, with solid brass nuts all below this the heat cannot disapate as much as a set-up without a solid row of nuts below. this maybe with the fact of 28g wire and resistances at or below 1 ohm, may make the PP heat up more than if the top wire didnt come around the back of the wick on the last coil, like on a wrap that starts out one direction and continues the same direction at the connection to the PP. this could all be incorrect on my part, i tend to over think on alot of things. but next time i re-coil i will try it both ways just to see. sorry for all the bs.

 

[j4mmin42]

I've seen much discussion about not making your positive connection super-tight...

what are the main reasons you guys do this? I've always had a more responsive vape on very tight connections. If you have constant problems with top-coil hotspots, I could see why this would make it an issue. But as far as I can tell, for those of us on unregulated rigs, every connection counts- even the direct connection to the coil- and all you're doing by tightening the wire down is making a more solid contact...at least that's how it works with every other electrical system I've worked with. When you do something like, say, install a new breaker box or power outlet, there is a guide as to how tight (in PSI) the contacts need to be to create a solid connection and prevent overheating or loss of current.

Any thoughts?

 

[vapdivrr]

I've seen much discussion about not making your positive connection super-tight...

what are the main reasons you guys do this? I've always had a more responsive vape on very tight connections. If you have constant problems with top-coil hotspots, I could see why this would make it an issue. But as far as I can tell, for those of us on unregulated rigs, every connection counts- even the direct connection to the coil- and all you're doing by tightening the wire down is making a more solid contact...at least that's how it works with every other electrical system I've worked with. When you do something like, say, install a new breaker box or power outlet, there is a guide as to how tight (in PSI) the contacts need to be to create a solid connection and prevent overheating or loss of current.

Any thoughts?

i always do it finger tight and then some. i really have never heard of keeping it kind of loose.

 

[EDO]

I thought everyone tightens their nuts/screws as much as possible. The only reason I can see for not tightening your nuts all the way is because if you use too much force it might pull the wick towards the positive post. How would making a looser connection help you avoid hot spots?....I am curious.

 

[vapdivrr]

I've seen much discussion about not making your positive connection super-tight...

what are the main reasons you guys do this? I've always had a more responsive vape on very tight connections. If you have constant problems with top-coil hotspots, I could see why this would make it an issue. But as far as I can tell, for those of us on unregulated rigs, every connection counts- even the direct connection to the coil- and all you're doing by tightening the wire down is making a more solid contact...at least that's how it works with every other electrical system I've worked with. When you do something like, say, install a new breaker box or power outlet, there is a guide as to how tight (in PSI) the contacts need to be to create a solid connection and prevent overheating or loss of current.

Any thoughts?

yes, not sure of people saying to keep it loose, the only reference sometimes i may make about not over tightening the top coil is just that if you really jam it, it could bring over the wick to much. sometimes i wedge a tooth pick behind wick, then i tighten.

 

[j4mmin42]

I thought everyone tightens their nuts/screws as much as possible. The only reason I can see for not tightening your nuts all the way is because if you use too much force it might pull the wick towards the positive post. How would making a looser connection help you avoid hot spots?....I am curious.

Well, that's just it- if you don't tighten the connection enough, it will reduce the power (and heat) in your coil- and possibly could cause the center post of your atty to heat up. So it's essentially avoiding hot coils via reduced power, so far as I can see.

Even on the two genesis systems I have that use wrap-around posts, I clamp down on them with a pliers to ensure a good tight connection.

 

[EDO]

Well, that's just it- if you don't tighten the connection enough, it will reduce the power (and heat) in your coil- and possibly could cause the center post of your atty to heat up. So it's essentially avoiding hot coils via reduced power, so far as I can see.

Even on the two genesis systems I have that use wrap-around posts, I clamp down on them with a pliers to ensure a good tight connection.

Thanks for the clarification...I guess this is used by people who have mechanical mods/hybrids...but even then I would think a perfectly adjusted coil would be better for avoiding hot spots.