Gone through 6 Ft of Kanthal rebuilding a tank. None of them work. ...?
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I have read this whole thread and feel your frustration. I am new at coil building too and I am afraid I will not get one to work. I picked up this Artistic Wire Gizmo coil winding device up at Hobby Lobby for under $10. You can also order it online or on Ebay or Amazon but will pay more. The smallest rod is 1.22mm. Here is a video on how it is used for coil building. This may help you get those tightly wound coils and you can torch them on the rod. Please do not give up.
I tried building those evod and protank heads. They are very tiny to work with and I do not believe worth the effort for me. I have an Igo-L and the building area (deck) is larger and it will be easier for me to mount the coil. Have not done one yet. I like the vape on the Igo-L. I have a Russian 91% coming next month so can not comment on that yet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kNT5-s0U5jk
Please watch this short video.
I tried building those evod and protank heads. They are very tiny to work with and I do not believe worth the effort for me. I have an Igo-L and the building area (deck) is larger and it will be easier for me to mount the coil. Have not done one yet. I like the vape on the Igo-L. I have a Russian 91% coming next month so can not comment on that yet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kNT5-s0U5jk
Please watch this short video.
I suppose I need to loom at a mech mod to be able to test fire these things. Looking for the shortest one available that I can use my panasonics in. Should be inexpensive as I will only be using it to test. Would like to avoid fast tech if I can
I was pulling the post out a bit. The coil would fire once but not again
Don't give up because you will get it.... Head over to Temco and pick up 100ft of kanthal shipped, for under $6.00 and keep on trying... You'll be glad you did once you get it figured out!!!
I had that problem to. The coil was shorting, and breaking. Make sure your insulator doesn't have any tears in it, and that your kanthal isn't touching anything it shouldn't be.
Good luck,
Rez
Good luck,
Rez
Yep. I've watched this video a half dozen times and followed his instruction exactly (or so I thought). Obviously I have some sort of brain deficiency that keeps me from performing simple mechanical tasks.
Elendil, I wind a few coils here and there using a large needle next to the 2mm wicking. I've also used Q-Tip cotton and found it a much better wick, but you can't dry burn cotton like silica.
A new Hobby Lobby just opened up about a mile from my house. I'm going to buy that little coil winder this week! It looks like the ultimate jig for creating perfect micro coils. I'm sure they will have a nice little hobby torch to go with it. The huge one I use for copper pipe soldering/brazing would be overkill.
In the meantime, it's a shame that an Aspire Nautilus won't fit your mod. It's just about the best flavor and vapor producer I've experienced and a head lasts a week or more as opposed to the 2 or 3 days from a Kanger. The heads aren't easily rebuildable with dual coils, but RipTripper's Nautilus rebuild method using a dual or single micro coil looks as easy as a Kanger. That's going to be my next project.
If your wires are oriented correctly (one through the center and one outside the first plug) and you are showing non ("open") on the resistance test, a wire must be breaking on the first vape or there's no contact with the outer shell and inner pin. Compare a new head and an old head and look at the distance the center pin is protruding. As someone uptopic said, you may be pushing the center pin into the rubber grommet and losing contact with the battery center pin.
It has to be something simple. If you aren't reading a short or open with a meter, then it's a contact issue.
A new Hobby Lobby just opened up about a mile from my house. I'm going to buy that little coil winder this week! It looks like the ultimate jig for creating perfect micro coils. I'm sure they will have a nice little hobby torch to go with it. The huge one I use for copper pipe soldering/brazing would be overkill.
In the meantime, it's a shame that an Aspire Nautilus won't fit your mod. It's just about the best flavor and vapor producer I've experienced and a head lasts a week or more as opposed to the 2 or 3 days from a Kanger. The heads aren't easily rebuildable with dual coils, but RipTripper's Nautilus rebuild method using a dual or single micro coil looks as easy as a Kanger. That's going to be my next project.
If your wires are oriented correctly (one through the center and one outside the first plug) and you are showing non ("open") on the resistance test, a wire must be breaking on the first vape or there's no contact with the outer shell and inner pin. Compare a new head and an old head and look at the distance the center pin is protruding. As someone uptopic said, you may be pushing the center pin into the rubber grommet and losing contact with the battery center pin.
It has to be something simple. If you aren't reading a short or open with a meter, then it's a contact issue.
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He is right; the NON reading indicates an electrical contact problem.
Center pin contact.
That's one of the advantages of the miniprotanks; they use the eGo not the 510
Getting a mech mod isn't going to help figure anything else; it will just make the consequences more painfull.
you should take pics of each step of the building process so we can help you
I must have rebuilt 40+ heads for the protank II
I must have rebuilt 40+ heads for the protank II
Before you spend another dime building coils, get one of these:
Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter
Before you toss a non-working coil - place it back on that and check it.
*I must have missed something - Why wreck 20 new heads? needed lower ohms?
I've done this by removing the coil, unwrapping 1 loop and reinstalling it. Works well - saves on supplies.
Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter
Before you toss a non-working coil - place it back on that and check it.
*I must have missed something - Why wreck 20 new heads? needed lower ohms?
I've done this by removing the coil, unwrapping 1 loop and reinstalling it. Works well - saves on supplies.
Protank heads can be one of the hardest things to rebuild. I have been doing rebuildables for a few months and I think they are the most difficult build I have, in fact I have 3 and only one is operational. Do yourself a huge favor and try a kayfun clone, veeerry easy to build and you won't regret it. Watch videoed on YouTube , and be cautious .. Good luck don't give up
Unless it is my VTR that is the problem.
I did order a Nemesis and a KFL since I have heard they are the easiest to rebuild. (Of course, I heard that about PT's as well)
KFLs are a lot easier to build as they're bigger and not as finnicky imo. Hopefully that will make things easier for you and you'll be able to get something working.
If for whatever reason you start to get frustrated or anything just walk away from it for a few mins, collect yourself and come back to it. Being angry and frustrated will only create further problems and difficulty in building it. Take breaks if you need to man, it's tough to get it down at first, and the more you do it the easier it will get. Keep at it, you'll be a pro in no time
If for whatever reason you start to get frustrated or anything just walk away from it for a few mins, collect yourself and come back to it. Being angry and frustrated will only create further problems and difficulty in building it. Take breaks if you need to man, it's tough to get it down at first, and the more you do it the easier it will get. Keep at it, you'll be a pro in no time
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