I mean the white delrin ring that is in the upper part, not down closer to the 510 connector part. Maybe try sanding that a little.
- Status
I mean the white delrin ring that is in the upper part, not down closer to the 510 connector part. Maybe try sanding that a little.
I've had my first Spheroid for about a week and half and I have to say it is pretty awesome. It's my first rba so I've been tearing through the supplied wire and wick to practice my coiling. Thankfully I have two spools of kathal, 20ft of wick, and a bag of Sera wool on the way! Doing a looped wick seems to be perfect but I'm still trying to figure the best way wrap a coil. Guess it's just practice.
Love my Spheroid!
Love my Spheroid!
You have to adjust it or adjust the Spheroid's posts making all three to be the same, by regulating the positive screw inside the base. If you have Spheroids with the first type of insulators, not the PEEK ones, don't try it, because if you over tighten them, they will be deformed.
Hi all, quick question that I can't seem to find much good info about elsewhere on the ECF...
Has anyone gotten any Kanthal that is discolored? The wire that came with my Spheroid was nice and shiny, but the new spool of Kanthal A-1 30AWG that I just got (from a well-known and recommended vendor) looks almost rusty or corroded! Is this normal / safe to use?
Here's a pic:
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Has anyone gotten any Kanthal that is discolored? The wire that came with my Spheroid was nice and shiny, but the new spool of Kanthal A-1 30AWG that I just got (from a well-known and recommended vendor) looks almost rusty or corroded! Is this normal / safe to use?
Here's a pic:
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Kanthal wire has excellent anti corrosion properties. There are many suppliers (manufacturers) that sell generic conductive wire. I believe Kanthal in the world it is manufactured is bare aluminium, coated aluminium and anodized aluminum all used for different apps.
Point being is maybe it is some type of coat?
I honestly have never seen that color or nothing short of bright and shiny, and I have used a bit. They guys or Kiba over in the Zen Family reunion or in ZAP rebuildable may have delt with it.
Cut a bit and heat it up. see if you can polish it by cleaning it/rub down?
Im way to ocd to not throw that crap away or get my $ back. Sorry man
Point being is maybe it is some type of coat?
I honestly have never seen that color or nothing short of bright and shiny, and I have used a bit. They guys or Kiba over in the Zen Family reunion or in ZAP rebuildable may have delt with it.
Cut a bit and heat it up. see if you can polish it by cleaning it/rub down?
Im way to ocd to not throw that crap away or get my $ back. Sorry man
Heating it with a lighter didn't change anything, but gently rubbing it with some steel wool helped get the shine up a bit. I'm tempted to just give it a shot and see if there's any noticeable difference during actual use, but I just made a new wick and coil yesterday (using the supplies included with my Spheroid) and my face is currently being vaped clean off, so I don't wanna mess with it until it needs to be changed! I am excited to try the 30awg with a 3mm wick though...
Update: I couldn't help myself and had to give the new vape gear a try! 
Anyhow, aside from the weird coloration of the Kanthal, I found it much easier to work with the thicker wire. Not only was it a breeze to wrap a clean 1.5 ohm, 5/4 coil (the wire is nice and stiff, so I hardly had to go back and fiddle with the coil spacing at all), but it was also much easier to hold everything in place and get the wire to stay put while screwing the tiny nuts down. This is only the 5th or 6th wick/coil I've built, and it's definitely getting much easier every time... I also really like the idea of the thicker wick supplying and holding more juice at the ready for the coil. With this 3mm looped setup, I've got an awesome coil wrapped around 6mm of juicy wick just waiting to be vaporized into smithereens! And after vaping on it for a while, I must say that everything is functioning perfectly and tasting great, so unless I find some good information to suggest why this wire shouldn't be used, my Spheroid and I are in vape heaven!
Anyhow, aside from the weird coloration of the Kanthal, I found it much easier to work with the thicker wire. Not only was it a breeze to wrap a clean 1.5 ohm, 5/4 coil (the wire is nice and stiff, so I hardly had to go back and fiddle with the coil spacing at all), but it was also much easier to hold everything in place and get the wire to stay put while screwing the tiny nuts down. This is only the 5th or 6th wick/coil I've built, and it's definitely getting much easier every time... I also really like the idea of the thicker wick supplying and holding more juice at the ready for the coil. With this 3mm looped setup, I've got an awesome coil wrapped around 6mm of juicy wick just waiting to be vaporized into smithereens! And after vaping on it for a while, I must say that everything is functioning perfectly and tasting great, so unless I find some good information to suggest why this wire shouldn't be used, my Spheroid and I are in vape heaven!
Last edited:
Update: I couldn't help myself and had to give the new vape gear a try!
Just by looking at it, looks sweet, I'm sure its vaping sweet..lol Happpy vaping!!
Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2
Nice job looks great! Although, I would definitely go over that wire with a torch before wrapping to burn of any machining oils though for your health, I do that with any wire I use.
Last edited:
I'm playing hookie from work for a couple hours......that wrap and wick looks great!! Can't wait until I can do that.
Can someone PLEASE tell me what I need to do to make the bottom button move on my picillo? When I put the battery in, there is no give on the bottom. No way for the button to be pushed up and down. What do I need to do?
What's it supposed to look like?
Can someone PLEASE tell me what I need to do to make the bottom button move on my picillo? When I put the battery in, there is no give on the bottom. No way for the button to be pushed up and down. What do I need to do?
What's it supposed to look like?
You have to rotate just the knob counter-clockwise (without unscrewing the entire bottom cap). Make it tight, then play with it. It requires a little finesse.
Thanks! I've found that a lighter flame works well for cleaning the wire. I tried with a torch once and it just melted the wire...
Put out the battery, take a close look at the switch and turn it left and right, to see how it functions. The switch is adjustable and it can be dismantled by the user very easily. Under the adjustable screw, there is a nut, that holds the base of the switch and the button in place.
In the above photo, you can see all the parts for a better understanding of how to put the switch back, if you take it apart for cleaning. it is a close system that it is tight in the beginning and after some use, it gets better and better.
If the button cannot be pushed that means that the adjustable screw is too high and there is no room for the switch to move up and down. It needs to be screwed deeper, but not too much otherwise there will be no contact. These settings have to be done once.
Lubricating the Piccolo v2.5 and v3.0 internals:
We have experimented with different kinds of lubricants to find the best. A tiny bit of vaseline inside the external threading of the switch locking rectangle, the metal piece that is around the button's post can be applied from time to time, but it has to be extremely minimal. Actually after its appliance, you have to use a soft cloth or a handkerchief and clean it very thoroughly, so only an invisible extra thin film of the lubricant to remain on the threading. The whole space in between the threadings is extremely tiny, any excess of vaseline may stack the switch and in that case it should be removed. And you have to clean the threading thoroughly before applying any lubricant on it. I mean the external threading of the locking square. Don't put vaseline anywhere else, except the internal threading of the body tube and on the threading of the locking square.
Maintenance of the switch:
Dismantle the whole switch, clean it very well with a light soap solution with water, rinse all the parts, dry them and assemble it again. Put a tiny bit of vaseline into the threads of the small piece with the square hole (square locking nut) and clean it then with a cloth. If any issue remains after cleaning, work the switch till you find the spot where it "grabs", a sense of biting and turn the switch repeatedly for 5-10 minutes back and forth into that point to loose it up. This switch is a closed type construction and it needs to be lubricated for time to time.
When you screw the switch on the body of the mod, you have to screw it all the way to hide the base inside the threads of the tube. That applies to the New Piccolo only, the Classic Piccolo has the base rim visible. If it fires when it is completely screwed, you need to turn the brass negative screw half or a full turn clockwise with a screwdriver or just with your finger.
Last edited:
cat I just filmed a disaster of a video for you. I am trying to edit it and post is somewhere so you can watch it.
and yes, perseas is the best. hands down.
and yes, perseas is the best. hands down.
Well thank you so much Perseas. But to be honest here, I will have to read that over several times and study everything before I understand what you said. It's times like these I wish I was a guy. That type of talk is hard for me to grasp.
Ob-looking forward to the video. Wish I could just take the easy road and have you fix up everything for me so I can just vape this thing!! I wanted to show it off next weekend at a huge vapemeet, but that is not going to happen. I don't like having to fuss and tinker with stuff I don't understand.
Ob-looking forward to the video. Wish I could just take the easy road and have you fix up everything for me so I can just vape this thing!! I wanted to show it off next weekend at a huge vapemeet, but that is not going to happen. I don't like having to fuss and tinker with stuff I don't understand.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
